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10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


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y 


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16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


n 

32X 


tails 

du 
odifier 

une 
Tiage 


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illustrent  la  mdthode. 


rrata 
o 


>elure. 


J 


32X 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

6 

6 

*  r    '   .T 


■1 


THE 


ilubUcattons  of  tl)r  TJtuuc  ^anctp. 


Eltablillied  May  25rh,   1858. 


Champlain's   Voyages. 


<1 


Boston: 

PRINTED  FOR  THE  SOCIETY, 

By  John  Wilson  and  Son. 

1878. 


IVH 


IW.i    IHNDUKI)    AMI    KIl  rv    rDl'IKS,    SMALL    I'AI'FR 


/ 


VOYAGES 


OF 


Samuel   de   Champlain. 

TRANSLATED  FROM  THE  FRENCH 

By  CHARLES   POMEROY   OTIS,  Ph.D. 
WITH    HISTORICAL    ILLUSTRATIONS, 

AND    A 

MEMOIR 

By  the  rev.  EDMUND  F.  SLAFTER,  A.M. 


Vol.    H. 
1604-  161O. 

HELIOTYPE    COPIES    OK    TWENTY    LOCAL    MAPS. 

^Boston: 

PUBLISHED    BY    THE    PRINCE    SOCIETY. 

1878. 


KlX<i«MueuwilHW>t«^^w»Ai^;^ib«.vj(tft^(V^ 


!9i 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1878,  by 

KDMUND   F.    SI.Al-TKR, 

In  tlie  OITice  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washin^^'ton. 

TO 

I  in  -'^'■^ 


lElfitor: 

Tub  rev.    EDMUND  F.   SLAFTER,   A.M. 


PREFACE. 


HAMPLAIN'S  edition  of  1613  contains,  in  con- 
nccftion  with  the  preliminary  matter,  two  pieces 
of  poetry,  one  figned  L'angi;,  Paris,  the  ot'iier 
MoTiN.  They  were  contributed  doubtlefs  by 
fome  friend,  intended  to  be  complimentary  to  the  author, 
to  embellifh  the  volume  and  to  give  it  a  favorable  introduc- 
tion to  the  reader.  This  was  in  conformity  to  a  prevailing 
cuftom  of  chat  period.  They  contain  no  intrinfic  hiftorical 
interefl:  or  value  whatever,  and,  if  introduced,  would  not  ferve 
their  original  purpofe,  but  would  rather  be  an  incumbrance, 
and  they  have  confequently  been  omitted  m  the  prefent 
work. 

Champlain  alfo  included  a  fummary  of  chapters,  identical 
with  the  headings  of  chapters  in  this  tranflation,  evidently 
intended  to  take  the  place  of  an  index,  which  he  did  not 
fupply.  To  repeat  thefe  headings  would  be  fuperfiuous, 
particularly  as  this  work  is  furniflied  with  a  copious  index. 

The 


VI 


Preface, 


The  edition  of  1613  Wcis  divided  into  two  books.  This 
divifion  has  been  omitted  here,  both  as  fuperlluous  and 
confufinii:. 

The  maps  referred  to  on  Champlain's  title-page  may  be 
found  in  Vol.  III.  of  this  work.  In  France,  the  needle 
deflects  to  the  eafl;  and  the  dial-plate,  as  figured  on  the 
larger  map,  that  of  161 2,  is  conflruc^ed  accordingly.  On 
it  the  line;  marked  nornordc/l  reprefents  the  true  north, 
while  the  index  is  carried  round  to  the  left,  and  points 
out  the  variation  of  the  needle  to  the  weft.  The  map  is 
oriented  by  the  needle  without  reference  to  its  variation, 
but  the  true  meridian  is  laid  down  by  a  strong  line  on 
which  the  degrees  of  latitude  are  numbered.  From  this 
thi?  points  of  the  compafs  between  any  two  places  may 
be  readily  obtained. 

A  Note,  relating  to  Hudfon's  difcoveries  in  161 2,  as  de- 
lineated on  Champlain's  fmall  map,  introduced  by  him 
in  the  prefatory  matter,  apparently  after  the  text  had  been 
flruck  off,  will  appear  in  connexion  with  the  map  itfelf, 
where  it  more  properly  belongs. 

E.   F.   S. 

Bol.on,  II  Pjeacon  Street, 
Odober  21,  1878. 


TABLE     OF    CONTENTS. 


Prkfack   

V 

CiiAMPi^MN's  Dedication  of  his  Work  to  thk  King xi 

AiJDRESs  to  the  Qukkn  Ri.:(!i.vr 

^  Xlll 

Extract  from  the  License    . 

XV 

Voyage  1604  to  1608  

First  Voyage  as  Lieutenant,  1608  to  16 10 

Second  Voyage  as  Lieu'tenant,  16 10 

Local  Maps:   Port  de  la  mve,  10;  Port  du  Roiffignol,  n  ;   Port  du 

Mouton,  22;    Port  Royal,  24;   Port  des  Mines,  26;    Riviere  St. 

Jehan,   29;    Ifle  de  Sainte  Croix,  ^2  ■    Habitation  de  L'lfle  Ste. 

^>oix,  35  ;  Quinibeciuy,  56  ;  Chouacoit  R.,  65  ;  Port  St.  Louis,  78  ; 

Malle  Barrc,  82;   L-Abitafion  du  Port  Royal,  97;  Le  Beau  Port! 

114;  Port  Fortune,  122;  The  Attack  at  Port  FortuntS  129;  Port 

de  Tadoucac,   170;   Quebec,   175;    Abitation  de  Quebecq,  1S3; 

Defeat  of  the  Iroquois  at  Lake  Champlain,  221. 


Index , 


259 


=B9B 


THE    VOYAGES 

OF    SIEL/R     DE     CHAMPLAIN, 

Of  Saintongc,  Captain  in  ortlinary  to  the 
King  in  tlit-  Marine; 

OK, 

A  MOST  FAITllFifL  JOURXAL  OF  OnSFlU'ATlON^ 
made  ,n  the  cxtloratum  of  Xe:j  Fnunr,  dcscribw^r  ,,,f  ,,„/,,  f;,^ 
coHHtncs,  coasts,  rivers,  ports,  ami  harbors,  u'ith  their  latitudes 
am  the  various  defleetious  of  the  Afa^^^uetie  Xeedie,  but  /iheroise  the 
reh^nous  belief  of  the  iuhabitauts,  their  superstitious,  mode  of  life 
audzvarfare;  furnished  with  numerous  iltustratious. 

Together  with  two  geocjraphical  maps :  the  first  for  the  purposes  of 
naugation.  adapted  to  the  compass  as  used  by  mariners,  which 
deflects  to  the  north-east  ;  the  other  in  its  true  meridian,  with 
longitudes  and  latitudes,  to  which  is  added  the  Voya^  e  to  the 
Strait  north  of  Labrador,  from  the  iy\  to  the  63d  degree  of  lati- 
tude, discovered  in  1612  by  the  English  when  they  were  searching 
tor  a  northerly  course  to  China. 


PARIS. 

Jean  Berjon,  Rue  St.  Jean  de  I?cauvais,  at  the  Flying  Horse 

and  at  his  store  in  the  Palace,  at  the  gallery 

of  the  Prisoners. 


M.    DC.    XIII. 

WITH  AUTHORITY  OF  THE  KING. 


V 

il ) 

I 


iSitimiiiimiimMiwiitm 


1^:, 


i    ! 


r 


t-- 


TO    THE    KING. 


;l 


IRE, 

Ycmr  Majejly  has  doiibtlefs  fiill  knowlcdi^c  of 
the  difcova'ics  made  in  your  fervice  in  N'cio 
France,  called  Canada,  through  the  defcriptions, 
given  by  certain  Captains  and  Pilots,  of  the  voyages  and 
difcoverics  made  there  during  the  pafl  eighty  years.  Tu<.fe, 
hoivever,  prefcnt  nothing  fo  honorable  to  your  Kingdom,  or 
fo  profitable  to  the  fervice  of  your  Alajifiy  and  your  ft  bj  efts, 
as  luill,  I  doubt  not,  the  maps  of  the  coafls,  harbors,  rivers, 
and  the  ftuation  of  the  places  defcribed  in  this  little  treatife, 
which  I  make  bold  to  addrefs  to  your  Majefly,  and  zohich  is 
entitled  a  fournal  of  Voyages  and  Difcoveries,  zohich  I  have 
made  in  conneHion  with  Sieur  de  Monts,  your  Lieute^iant  in 
New  France.  This  I  do,  feeling  myfelf  urged  by  a  j'ufi  fenfe 
of  the  honor  I  have  received  during  the  lajl  ten  years  in. 
com})iiJ/ions,  not  only.  Sire,  from  your  Majefiy,  but  a  If o  from 
the  late  king,  Henry  the  Great,  of  happy  memory,  lulio  com- 
miffoned  me  to  make  the  mofl  exafl  refearches  and  explo- 
rations in  my  power.  This  I  have  done,  and  added,  more- 
over. 


; '       I 


Xll 


Dedication  to  the  Kins^. 


over,  the  maps  contained  in  this  little  book,  where  I  have  fet 
forth  in  particnlar  the  dangers  to  which  one  would  be  liable. 
The  fubjecls  of  your  Majcjly,  whom  you  may  be  pleafed  here- 
after to  employ  for  the  prcfervation  of  what  has  been  dif- 
coveredy  will  be  able  to  avoid  thofe  dangers  through  the 
knowledge  afforded  by  the  maps  contained  i7i  this  treatife, 
which  luillferve  as  an  example  in  your  kingdom  for  increaf 
in g  the  glory  of  your  Alajcjly,  the  welfare  of  your  fubjefls, 
and  for  the  honor  of  the  very  humble  fervice,  for  which, 
to  the  happyy  prolongation  of  your  days,  is  iiidebtcdy 


Sire, 


Yotir  mofl  humble,  mofl  obedient, 

and  7nofl  faithful fervant  and  fubje^l, 

CHAMPLAIN. 


W 


■1   hi 

'if     I  i! 


'et 
le. 

V- 

'lie 

af. 
%, 
ch, 


TO    THE    QUEEN    REGENT, 
Mother  of  the  King. 


UN. 


ADAME, 

Of  all  the  moll:  ufefiil  and  excellent  arts,  that  of 
navigation  has  always  feemed  to  me  to  occupy 
the  firfl  place.  For  the  more  hazardous  it  is, 
and  the  more  numerous  the  perils  and  loffes  by  which  it  is 
attended,  fo  much  the  more  is  it  efteemcd  and  exalted  above 
all  others,  being  wholly  unfuited  to  the  timid  and  irrefolute. 
By  this  art  we  obtain  knowledge  of  different  countries,  re- 
gions, and  realms.  By  it  we  attra6l  and  bring  to  our  own 
land  all  kinds  of  riches,  by  it  the  idolatry  of  paganilm  is 
overthrown  and  Chriftianity  proclaimed  throughout  all  the 
regions  of  the  earth.  This  is  the  art  which  from  my  early 
age  has  won  my  love,  and  induced  me  to  expofe  myfelf  almofl: 
all  my  life  to  the  impetuous  waves  of  the  ocean,  and  led  me 
to  explore  the  coafts  of  a  part  of  America,  efpecially  of  New 
France,  where  I  have  always  defired  to  fee  the  Lily  flourilh, 
and  alfo  the  only  religion,  catholic,  apoftolic,  and  Roman. 
This  I  truft  now  to  accomplidi  with  the  help  of  God,  alTifted 
by  the  favor  of  your  Majefly,  whom  I  mofl:  humbly  entreat 

to 


i^.';;n..;;Tra.:ifaaiM 


m 


\  i 


ii  I 


xlv       Address  to  the  Qtieen  Regent. 

to  continue  to  fuftain  us,  in  order  that  all  may  fucceed  to  the 
honor  of  God,  the  welfare  of  France,  and  the  fplendor  of 
your  reign,  for  the  grandeur  and  profperity  of  which  I  will 
pray  God  to  attend  you  always  with  a  thoufand  bleffings, 
and  will  remain, 

Madame, 

Your  mofl  humble,  mofl  obedient, 

and  mofl  faithful  fervant  and  fubjed, 

CHAMPLAIN. 


IJ    !l 


'^ 


f^' 


i 


>  ii 


the 

of 

will 


EXTRACT    FROM    THE    LICENSE. 


IN. 


Y  letters  patent  of  the  King,  given  at  Paris  the 
ninth  of  January,  1613,  and  in  the  third  year  of 
our  reign,  by  the  King  in  his  Council,  Pkkrp:au, 
and  fealed  with  the  fimple  yellow  feal,  it  is  per- 
mitted to  Jean  Berjon,  printer  and  bookfolier 
in  this  city  of  Paris,  to  print,  or  have  printed  by  whonifoever 
it  may  feem  good  to  him,  a  book  entitled  The  Voyages  of 
Samuel  de  Champlain  of  Saintonge^  Captain  in  ordinary  for 
the  King  in  the  Marine,  &e.,  for  the  time  and  limit  of  fix 
entire  confecutive  years,  from  the  day  when  this  book  lliall 
have  been  printed  up  to  the  faid  time  of  fix  years.  By  the 
fame  letters,  in  like  manner  all  printers,  merchant  bookfellers, 
and  any  others  whatever,  are  forbidden  to  print  or  have 
printed,  to  fell  or  diflribute  faid  book  during  the  afoicfaid 
time,  without  the  fpecial  confent  of  faid  Berjon,  or  of  him 
to  whom  he  fliall  give  permiffion,  on  pain  of  confifcation  of 
fo  many  of  faid  books  as  fliall  be  found,  and  a  difcretionary 
fine,  as  is  more  fully  fet  forth  in  the  aforefairl  lettcs. 


1:        ■ 

< 

1 

; 

!  i 

' 

\   !!! 


'    I 


i      ! 


■■■^ 


VOYAG  E  S 


OF 


SIEUR      DE      CHAMPLAIN. 


VOYAGE    IN   THE   YEAR    1604. 


CHAPTER   I. 

The  Benefits  of  Commerce  have  induced  Several  Princes  to  seek  an 
Easier  Route  for  Traffic  with  the  People  of  the  East.  —  Several 
Unsuccessful  Voyages. —  Determination  of  the  French  for  this 
Puri'ose. —  Undertaking  of  Sieur  de  Monts:  his  Co.mmission  and 
ITS  Revocation.  —  New  Commission  to  Sieur  de  Monts  to  enable 

HIM  to  continue  HIS    UNDERTAKING. 

HE  inclinations  of  men  differ  according  to  their 
varied  difpofitions ;  and  each  one  in  his  calling 
has  his  particular  end  in  view.  Some  aim  at 
gain,  fome  at  glory,  fome  at  the  public  weal. 
The  greater  number  are  engaged  in  trade,  and 
efpecially  that  which  is  tranfad:ed  on  the  fea.  Hence  arife 
the  principal  fupport  of  the  people,  the  opulence  and  honor 
of  ftates.  This  is  what  raifed  anciei.t  Rome  to  the  fov- 
ereignty  and  maftery  over  the  entire  world,  and  the  Vene- 
tians to  a  grandeur  equal  to  that  of  powerful  kings,,     It  has 

I  in 


Voyages  of 


I    I 


in  all  times  caufcd  maritime  towns  to  abound  in  riches, 
amonc;  which  Alexandria  and  Tyre  are  dillingiiilhed,  and 
numerous  others,  which  fill  up  the  regions  of  the  interior 
with  the  objects  of  beauty  and  rarity  obtained  from  foreign 
nations.  For  this  reafon,  many  princes  have  ftri\en  to  find 
a  northerly  route  to  China,  in  order  to  facilitate  commerce 
with  the  Orientals,  in  the  belief  that  this  route  would  be 
fliortcr  and  lefs  dangerous. 

In  the  year  1496,  the  king  of  England  commiffioned  John 
Cabot  and  his  fon  Sebaftian  to  engatje  in  this  fearch.'  About 
the  fame  time,  Don  Emanuel,  king  of  Portugal,  defi^atched 
on  the  fame  errand  Gafpar  Cortcreal,  who  returned  with- 
out attaining  his  obje6l.  Refi.m"iing  his  journeys  the  year 
after,  he  died  in  the  undertaking;  as  did  alfo  his  brother 
Michel,  who  was  profecuting  it  perfeveringly.-  In  the  years 
1534  and  1535,  Jacques  Cartier  received  a  like  con  miffion 
from  King  Francis  I.,  but  was  arrefted  in  his  courfc.''  Six 
years  after,  Sieur  de  Roberval,  having  renewed  it,  fent  Jean 

Alfonfe 


1  Tlie  firft  commifllon  was  granted  by 
Henry  VII.  of  England  to  Jolm  Caliot 
and  his  three  fons,  Lewis,  Seballian, 
and  Sancius,  March  5,  1496.  —  Rvifur's 
Fcrdera,  Vol.  XII.  p.  595.  The  firrt 
voyage,  however,  was  made  in  1497. 
The  fecond  commiffion  was  granted  to 
John  Cabot  alone,  in  I49<S. —  I'UeHak- 
liiyt,  1600,  London,  ed.  iSio,  Vol.  III. 
pp.  25-31. 

2  Cortereal  made  two  voyages  under 
the  patronage  of  Emmanuel,  King  of 
Portugal,  the  firit  in  1500,  the  fecond 
in  1501.  In  the  latter  year,  he  failed 
with  two  fliips  from  Lifbon,and  explored 
fix  hundred  miles  or  more  on  our  north- 
ern coalt.  The  vefiel  in  which  he  Hiiled 
was  lofl ;  and  he  periflied,  together  with 


fifty  natives  wliom  he  had  captured. 
The  other  vefiel  returned,  and  reported 
the  incidents  of  tiie  expedition.  The 
next  year,  Michael  Cortereal,  the  brother 
of  Gafpar,  obtained  a  commiffion,  and 
went  in  fearch  of  his  brother  ;  but  he 
did  not  return,  and  no  tidings  were  ever 
heard  of  him. 

^  Jacques  Cartier  made  three  voj-ages 
in  1534,  1535.  and  1540,  refpectively, 
in  which  he  effected  very  important  dif- 
coveries  ;  and  Charlevoix  jultly  remarks 
that  Cartier's  Memoirs  long  ferved  as  a 
guide  to  thofe  who  after  him  navigated 
the  gulf  and  river  of  St.  Lawrence.  For 
Cartier's  commiffion,  fee  Hazard's  State 
Papers^  Vol.  L  p.  19. 


li 


Sietiv  de  Champlain. 


Alfonfe  of  Saintongc  farther  northward  along  thu  coaft  of 
Labrador;^  but  he  returned  as  wife  as  the  other-.  In  the 
years  1576,  1577,  and  1578,  Sir  Martin  Frobilher,  an  I^ngHlh- 
man,  made  three  voyages  along  the  northern  coads.  Seven 
years  later,  Humphrey  Gilbert,  alfo  an  Knglilhman,  fet  out 
with  five  fliips,  but  fuffered  (hipwrcck  on  Saljle  I  (land, 
where  three  of  his  velTels  were  lol  In  the  fame  and  two 
following  years,  John  Davis,  an  Englilhman,  made  three 
voyages  for  the  fame  obje(5l ;  penetrating  to  the  7 2d  degree, 
as  far  as  a  flrait  which  is  called  at  the  prefent  day  by  his 
name.  After  him,  Captain  Georges  made  alfo  a  \-oyage  in 
1590,  but  in  confequence  of  the  ice  was  com])elIed  to  return 
without  having  made  any  difcovery.^     The  Hollanders,  on 

their 


^  Rdhcrval's  voyage  was  made  in 
1 542,  and  is  reported  by  Jean  Alfonfe.  — 
I'idt'  Hakluyt,  1600,  London,  ed.  1810, 
\'ol.  III.  ]j.  291.  On  an  old  map.  drawn 
about  tlie  middle  of  the  fixteenth  cen- 
tury, Roiierval  is  reprefentod  in  a  full- 
IcMgtli  portrait,  clad  in  mail,  with  fword 
and  fpear,  at  the  head  of  a  band  of 
armed  foldiers,  penetrating  into  the 
wilds  of  Canada,  near  the  head-waters 
(if  the  Saguenay.  The  name,  "  Monfr. 
de  Roberual,"  is  inferted  near  his  feet, 
—  Vide  Momiments  de  la  GSo^raphie, 
XIX.,  par  M.  Jomard,  Paris. 

'"  For  the  narrative  of  the  voyages  of 
l'"rol)i(her,  Gilbert, and  \y-\\\?,,vidc Hak- 
luvt.  Vol.  III.  Of  the  fleet  of  five 
velTels  commanded  by  Sir  Humphrey 
Gilbert,  in  1583,  the  Ralegh  put  back  to 
England,  on  account  of  ficknefs  on 
board ;  the  Golden  Hinde  returned 
fafely  to  port ;  the  Swallow  was  left  at 
Newfoundland,  to  bring  home  the  fick  ; 
the  Delisrht  was  loll  near  Sable  Ifland  ; 
and  the  Squirrel  went  down  on  its  way 


to  England,  fome  days  after  leaving 
S.able  Ifland.  Tims  two  only  were  lolt, 
while  a  third  was  left. 

There  mud  have  been  fome  error  in  re- 
gard to  the  voy.age  of  Cai)tain  (Jeorges. 
There  is  no  printed  account  of  a  voy- 
age at  that  time  l)y  any  one  of  this 
name.  There  are  two  theories  on 
which  this  ftatement  may  be  explained. 
There  may  have  been  a  viiya^e  by  a 
Captain  Georges,  wiiich,  for  fume  un- 
known reafon,  was  never  reported  :  or, 
what  is  more  likely.  Cliamplain  may 
refer  to  the  vo3-age  of  Captain  Cieorge 
Weymouth,  undertaken  in  K)02  for  the 
East  Ind.  Company,  which  was  defeated 
by  the  icebergs  whicli  he  encountered, 
and  the  mutiny  of  his  men.  It  was  not 
uncommon  to  omit  part  of  a  name  at 
that  period.  Of  I'ont  (irave,  the  lall 
name  is  frequently  omitted  l)y  Cham- 
plain  and  by  Lefcarbot.  The  report  of 
Weymouth's  voyage  was  not  jjrinted 
till  after  Champlain  wrote ;  and  he 
might  eatily  have  millakcn  the  date. 


\ 


t 


4  Voyages  of 

their  part,  had  no  more  prccifc  knowledge  in  the  dircdion  of 
Nova  Zcmbla. 

So  many  voyages  and  difcovcrics  without  rcfult,  and  at- 
tended with  fo  much  hardfliip  and  expenfe,  have  caufed  us 
French  in  late  years  to  attempt  a  jjermanent  fettlement  in 
thole  lands  which  we  call  New  France,"  in  the  hope  of  thus 
realizing  more  eafily  this  objedl;;  fince  the  voyage  in  fearch 
of  the  defired  palfage  commences  on  the  other  fide  of  the 
ocean,  and  is  made  along  the  coafl;  of  this  region.'  Thefe 
confiderations  had  induced  the  Marquis  de  la  Roche,  in  1598, 
to  take  a  commiffion  from  the  kintj  for  makini]:  a  fettlement 
in  the  above  region.  With  this  obje6l,  he  landed  men  and 
fupplies  on  Sable  Ifland;'*  but,  as  the  conditions  which  had 
been  accorded  to  him  by  his  Majefty  were  not  fulfilled,  he 
was  obliged  to  abandon  his  undertaking,  and  leave  his  men 
there.  A  year  after.  Captain  Chauvin  accepted  another 
commiffion  to  tranfport  fettlers  to  the  fame  region ;  ®  but,  as 
this  was  fliortly  after  revoked,  he  profecuted  the  matter  no 
farther." 

After  the  above,'"  notwithftanding  all  thefe  accidents  and 
difappointments,  Sieur  de  Monts  defired  to  attempt  what  had 

been 


^  The  name  of  New  France,  A^otvs 
Fraiuifca,  appears  on  a  map  in  Ptolemy 
publilhed  at  Bafle  in  1530. 

^  The  controllino;  ohjefl  of  the  nu- 
merous voyages  to  the  north-eaft  coafl 
of  America  had  hitherto  been  to  difcover 
a  fliorter  courfe  to  India.  In  this  re- 
fpe6l,  as  Champlain  ftates  above,  they 
had  ail  proved  failures.  He  here  inti- 
mates that  the  fettlements  of  the  French 
on  this  coart  were  intended  to  facilitate 
this  defign.     It  is  obvious  that  a  colo- 


nial eftablifhment  would  offer  great  ad- 
vantages asabafe  inprofecutingfearches 
for  this  delired  paffage  to  Cathay. 

8  For  fome  account  of  this  difaflrous 
expedition,  fee  Me»ioir,  Vol.  I. 

*   Vide  Memoir,  Vol.  I. 

1°  It  will  be  obferved  that  Champlain 
dots  not  mention  the  expedition  fent  out 
by  Commander  de  Chaftes,  probably 
becaufe  its  objedl  was  exploration,  and 
not  actual  fettlement.  —  Vide  an  account 
of  De  Chaftes  in  the  Memoir,  Vol.  I. 


i 


■:^ 


Sieur  de  Champlain. 


5 


trous 


plain 
Uout 
jably 
,  and 
count 
I. 


been  given  up  in  defpair,  and  rcqucdcd  a  comminioti  for  this 
l)urpore  of  his  Majcfty,  being  fatisficd  that  the  previous 
enterprifes  had  failed  becaufe  the  undertakers  of  them  had 
not  received  affiftance,  who  had  not  fucceeded,  in  one  nor 
even  two  years'  time,  in  making  the  acquaintance  of  the 
regions  and  people  there,  nor  in  finding  harbors  adapted  for 
a  fettlenient.  He  propofed  to  his  Majefty  a  means  for  cov- 
ering thefe  expenfes,  without  drawing  any  thing  from  the 
royal  revenues;  viz.,  by  granting  to  him  the  monopoly  of 
the  fur-trade  in  this  land.  This  having  been  granted  to 
him,  he  made  great  and  exceffive  outlays,  and  carried  out 
with  him  a  large  number  of  men  of  various  vocations. 
Upon  his  arrival,  he  caufed  the  neceffary  number  of  habita- 
tions for  his  followers  to  be  conftrudled.  This  expenditure 
he  continued  for  three  confecutive  years,  after  which,  in  con- 
fequence  of  the  jealoufy  and  annoyance  of  certain  Balque 
merchants,  together  with  fome  from  Biitt^any,  the  monopoly 
which  had  been  granted  to  him  was  revoked  by  the  Council 
to  the  great  injury  and  lofs  of  Sieur  de  Monts,  who,  in  con- 
fequence  of  this  revocation,  was  compelled  to  abandon  his 
entire  undertaking,  facrificing  his  labors  and  the  outfit  for 
his  fettlement. 

But  fmce  a  report  had  been  made  to  the  king  on  the  fer- 
tility of  the  foil  by  him,  and  by  me  on  the  feafibility  of  dif- 
covering  the  paffagc  to  China, ^^  without  the  inconveniences 
of   the  ice  of   the  north   or  the   heats  of   the    torrid  zone, 

through 

"  In  Champlain's  report  of  the  voyage  tlic  lafl  lake  in  the  chain  was  fait,  and 

of  1603,  after  obtaining  what  infornia-  he  tiierofore  believed  it  to  be  the  South 

tioii  he  could  from  tlie  natives  relating  Sea.      He  doubtlefs  enlarged  verl^ally 

to  tlie  St.  Lawrence  and  tiie  chain  of  before  the  king  upon  the  feafibility  of  a 

lakes,  he   fays  they  informed  him  that  palTage  to  China  in  this  way. 


-rt* 


\ 


Voyages  of 


throuijh  wliicli  our  failors  pafs  twice  in  goinc;  and  twice  in 

returning,  with  inconceivable  iiardlliips  and  ri(ks,  iiis  Maj- 

cfly  directed   Sieur  de   Monls   to   make  a  new  outfit,  and 

fend  men  to  continue  what  he  had  commenced.     Tiiis  he 

did.     And,  in  view  of  the  uncertainty  of  his  conimiffion,''''  he 

chofe  a  new  fpot  for  liis  fettlement,  in  order  to  dej^rive  jealous 

^    rfons  of  any  fuch  diflrull  as  they  had  previoufly  conceived. 

He  was  alfo  inlluenced  by  the  hope  of  greater  .d vantages  in 

cafe  of  fettling  in  the  interior,  where  the  people  arc  civilized, 

and  where  it  is  eafier  to  plant  the  Chriflian  faith  and  eftablilh 

fuch  order  as  is  necelfary  for  the  protecftion  of  a  country,  than 

along  the  fea-lhore,  where  the  favages  generally  dwell.     From 

this  courfe,  he  believed  the  king  would  derive  an  ineftimable 

profit ;  for  it  is  eafy  to  fuppofe  that  Europeans  will  feek  out 

this  advantage  rather  than  thofe  of  a  jealous  and  intrad^able 

difpofition  to   be  found  on  the  fliorcs,   and  the  barbarous 

tribes.'^ 

CHAPTER  II. 


**  The  commiflTion  here  referred  to 
was  douhilefs  the  one  renewed  to  him 
in  1608.  after  he  had  made  his  fearchos 
on  the  fhores  of  New  England  and 
Nova  Scotia,  and  after  the  commiffion 
or  charter  of  1603  iiad  been  re  voiced. 
Chanij)lain  is  here  Hating  the  advantages 
of  a  fettlement  in  the  interior,  on  the 


fliores  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  rather  than 
on  the  Atlantic  coaft. 

1^  In  this  chapter,  Champlain  fpeaks 
of  events  ftretching  through  feveral 
years  ;  but  in  the  next  he  confines  him- 
felf  to  the  occurrences  of  1603,  when 
De  Monts  obtained  his  charter. 


I 

■  "y 


'M 


Siettr  de  Champlain. 


CHAPTER   II. 


Dl'SCIUPTION  OF  SADLK  ISLAND;  Cai'K  Hkkton  ;  La  IlicvK ;  I'oIlT  AU 
MoUToN ;  I'OKT  Cai'K  NicfiKf: ;  Saui.k  \\\\  and  Cai'K  ;  Cokmokant 
Island;  Capk  KnCKciiu  ;  LoNc;  Island;  I'ay  ok  Saint  Makv  ;  Tout 
Saint  MAKiiAUKT ;  and  ok  all  NoTiiwouTiiY  Okjkcts  along  this 
Coast. 

lEUR  DE  MONTS,  by  virtue  of  his  commir- 
fion  "  having  publifhcd  in  all  the  ports  and  har- 
bors of  this  kingdom  the  prohibition  againil  the 
\iolation  of  the  monopoly  of  the  fur-trade  ac- 
corded him  by  his  IVIajeffy,  gathered  together 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  artifans,  whom  he  embarked 
in  two  velTels:  one  of  a  hundred  and  twenty  tons,  com- 
manded by  Sieur  de  Pont  Grave ; '^  another,  of  a  hundred 
and  fifty  tons,  in  which  he  embarked  himfelf,'"  together  with 
feveral  noblemen. 

We  fet  out  from  Havre  de  Grace  April  7th,  1604,  and  Pont 
Grave  April  loth,  to  rendezvous  at  Canfeau,''  twenty  leagues 

from 


'*  /  'idc  Commiffion  dii  Roy  an  Sieitr 
de  MoHts,  pour  Vhahitation  h  tcrres 
dc  la  Cadie,  Canada,  et  autres  endroiis 
en  la  A'oiivelle- France,  Hifloire  de 
a  Noiivelle- France,  par  Marc  Lefcar- 
bot,  I'aris,  1612,  Qvat.  Liv.  p.  431. 
This  charter  may  alfo  be  found  in  Eng- 
li(h  in  a  Col  led  ion  of  Voyai(es  and  Trav- 
els compiled  from  the  Library  of  the 
Earl  of  Oxford,  by  Thomas  Of  borne, 
London,  1745,  Vol  IL  pp.  796-79S  ; 
alio  in  Murdoch's  Hiflory  of  Nova  Sco- 
tia, Halifax,  1865,  Vol.  I.  pp.  21-24. 


1^  The  fecond  officer,  or  pilot,  was, 
according  to  Lefcarbot,  Captain  Morel, 
of  Hontteur. 

1"  This  was  under  the  direction  of 
De  Monts  himfelf ;  and  Captain  Timo- 
tln5e,  of  Havre  de  Grace,  was  pilot,  or 
the  fecond  officer. 

1''  Lefcarljot  writes  this  name  Canip- 
fe.au  ;  Champlain's  orthography  is  Can- 
ceau  ;  the  Englifh  often  write  Canfo,  but 
more  correclly  Canfeau.  It  has  been  de- 
rived from  Canfoke,  an  Indian  word, 
meaning  y"rt£7V/i/-  the  frowning  cliffs. 


wm 


8 


Voyages  of 


I         ,^ 


■!    ? 


\    If 

I    : 

I      'I 


from  Cape  Breton."*  But,  after  we  were  in  mid-ocean,  Sieur 
de  Monts  changed  liis  })lan,  and  directed  his  courfe  towards 
Port  Mouton,  it  being  more  foutherly  and  alfo  more  favor- 
able for  landing  than  Canfeau. 

On  May  ift,  we  fighted  Sable  IHand,  where  we  ran  a  rifk 
of  being  lofl  in  confequence  of  the  error  of  our  pilots,  who 
were  deceived  in  their  calculation,  which  they  made  forty 
leacjues  ahead  of  where  we  were. 

This  illand  is  thirty  leagues  diflant  north  and  fouth  from 
Cape  Breton,  and  in  length  is  about  fifteen  leagues.  It  con- 
tains a  fmall  lake.  The  ifland  is  very  fandy,  and  there  are 
no  trees  at  all  of  confide rable  fize,  only  copfe  and  herbage, 
which  lerve  as  pafturage  for  the  bullocks  and  cows,  which 
the  Portuguefe  carried  there  more  than  fixty  3'ears  ago,  and 
which  were  very  ferviceable  to  the  party  of  the  Marquis  de  la 
Roche.  The  latter,  during  their  fojourn  ot  feveral  years 
there,  captured  a  large  number  of  very  fine  black  foxes,'" 

whole 


^*  The  Cape  and  Kland  of  Cape  Bre- 
ton appear  to  have  taken  their  name 
from  the  fifhcrnien  of  Brittany,  wln^  fre- 
quented tliat  rei^ion  as  early  as  1504  — 
Vide  ChaniplaiiCs  Voyages^  V'\x\'a,  ^("'I-i 
p.  y. 

Thdvet  failed  along  the  coaft  in  1556, 
and  is  quoted  by  Lavtrdiore,  as  follows  : 
"  In  this  land  there  is  a  province  called 
Campellre  de  Berime,  extcndinjj  towards 
the  Ibutli-eall ;  in  the  eallern  part  of  the 
fame  is  the  cape  or  promontory  of  i.or- 
raine,  called  fo  by  us  ;  others  have  given 
it  the  name  of  the  Cajje  of  the  Bretons, 
fince  the  l'>retons,  Bifayans,  and  Nor- 
mans repair  thither,  and  coalt  along  on 
their  way  to  Newfoundland  to  iifl\  for 
codndi." 

An  infcription,  ^'- tera  que  f'y  dffcii- 
hota  par  lurtoines"  on  an  old  Portu- 


guefe map  of  1520,  declares  it  to  be  a 
country  difcovered  by  the  Bretons.  It 
is  undoubtedly  the  oldell  French  name 
on  an;  part  of  North  America.  On 
Gaflaklo's  map  in  Mattiolo's  Italian 
tranilalion  of  I'tolemy,  1548,  the  name 
of  Breton  is  applied  both  to  Nova  Scotia 
and  to  the  liland  of  Cape  Breton. 

i»  Wintiirop  fays  that  Mr.  John  Hofe, 
who  was  call  away  on  Sable  Illand  about 
1633,  "  h\\  about  eight  hundred  cattle, 
fmall  and  great,  all  red,  and  the  largcll 
he  ever  faw  ;  and  many  foxes,  whirof 
fome  perfect  black."  — //  'iiit/uop's  llijl. 
i\c70    Eiig.,    Boflon,    1S53.  Vol.    I.   p. 

Champlain  doubtlefs  obtained  his  in- 
formation in  regard  to  the  cattle  left 
upon  Sable  Bland  by  the  Portuguefe 
from   the  report  of  Edward   Haies  on 

the 


m 


he.  a 
IS.      It 

name 
On 
Italian 

name 
Scotia 

Kofe, 

aliniit 
cattle, 

ai-.ijL'll 
wlurof 


his  m- 
ic  left 
.Uiiucle 
,ies  on 
the 


Sie2ir  de  Champlain.  9 

whofe  fkins  they  carefully  preferved.  There  are  many  fea- 
wolvcs'-"  there,  with  the  fkins  of  which  they  clothed  theni- 
felves  fince  they  had  exhaiifted  their  own  flock  of  garments. 
By  order  of  the  Parliamentary  Court  of  Rouen,  a  veffel  was 
fent  there  to  recover  them.-'  The  dire6lors  of  the  enterprife 
caught  codfifli  near  the  ifland,  the  neighborhood  of  which 
abounds  in  flioals. 

On  the  8th  of  the  fame  month,  we  fighted    Cap    de  la 
Heve,"'^  to  the  eafl:  of  which   is   a   bay,  containing    fevcral 

iflands 


tlie  voyage  of  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  in 

"  Sablon  lieth  to  the  fea-ward  of  Cape 
r>riton  aljout  twenty-five  leagues,  whith- 
er we  were  determined  to  i^oe  vi)on  in- 
telligence we  had  of  a  Portugal  (during 
our  abode  in  S.  Johns)  who  was  himfelfe 
l)refent,  wJien  the  Portugals  (aboue  thirty 
veeres  pall)  did  put  in  the  fame  Illand 
I)oth  Neat  and  Swine  to  breede,  wliich 
were  fince  exceedingly  multiplied.  This 
feemed  vnto  vs  very  happy  tidini^s,  to 
haue  in  an  Illand  lying  fo  neere  vnto  the 
m.iine.  wiiich  we  intended  to  plant  vpon, 
fuch  llore  of  cattell,  whereby  we  might 
at  all  times  conueniently  be  relieued  of 
victuall,  and  ferued  of  llore  for  breed." 
—  Juf-d'ord  //(i.'t's  ill  /Idkhiyt's  royni^es, 
London,  cd.  1810,  \'ol.  111.  p.  197, 

'■"^  "  Loups  marins,"  feals. 

-1  "  The  forty  poor  wretches  whom 
he  left  on  Sable  Illand  found  on  the 
Icalhore  fome  wrecks  of  velTels.  luu  of 
which  they  built  barracks  to  Ihield  tiiem- 
felves  from  the  feverity  of  the  weather. 
They  were  the  remains  of  Spanilh  vef- 
fels,  which  had  failed  to  fettle  Cape 
lireton.  From  thefe  fame  (liips  had 
come  fome  Iheep  and  cattle,  which  had 
multiplied  on  Sable  Ifland;  and  this 
was  for  fome  time  a  refource  for  thefe 
poor  e.xiles.  Fifli  w.is  their  next  food  ; 
and,  when  their  clothes  were  worn  out, 


they  made  new  ones  of  feal-fkin.  At 
lalt,  after  a  lapfe  of  feven  years,  the 
king,  having  heard  of  their  adventure, 
obliged  Chedotel.  the  pilot,  to  go  for 
them  ;  but  he  found  only  twelve,  the 
rell  having  died  of  their  hardlhips.  His 
majelly  delired  to  fee  thofe,  who  returned 
in  the  fame  guile  as  found  by  Chedotel, 
covered  with  feal-fkin,  with  their  hair 
and  beard  of  a  length  and  difonler  that 
made  them  refemble  the  pretended  river- 
gods,  anil  fo  disfigured  as  to  infpire  hor- 
ror. The  king  s^ave  them  tllty  crowns 
apiece,  and  fent  them  home  releafcd  from 
all  proccfs  of  law."  —  Shea's  C/uirli'Toix, 
New  York,  kS66,  Vol.  I.  p.  244.  See 
alio  Sir  Williaiii  ^Mixatuicr and Atiuri- 
can  Colonization,  Prince  Society,  1.S73, 
p.  174;  MimioclCs  Xox'a  Scotia,  \'ol.  1. 
p.  II  :  Haklnyt,  Vol.  II.  pp.  679,  697. 

'-^  This  cape  flill  bears  the  fame  n.ime, 
and  is  the  wellern  point  of  the  bay  at 
the  mouth  of  a  river,  likewife  of  the  fame 
name,  in  the  county  of  Lunenberg,  Nova 
.Scotia.  It  is  an  abrupt  cliff,  riling  u|) 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  fea.  It  could  therefore  !)e 
feen  at  a  great  diflance,  and  api)ears  to 
have  been  the  firll  land  lighted  by  them 
on  tiie  coalt  of  La  Cadie.  A  little  north 
of  Havre  de  Grace,  in  Normandy,  tiie 
l)ort  from  which  De  Monts  and  Cham- 
plain  had  failed,  is  tt)  be  feen  the  high, 
2  commandiiiir, 


I 

i   ■ 


i 


10 


Voyages  of 


iflands  covered  with  fir-trees.  On  the  main  land  arc  oaks, 
ehns,  and  birches.  It  joins  the  coafl:  of  La  Cadie  at  the 
latitude  of  44'  5',  and  at  16"  15'  of  the  defledlion  of  the  mag- 
netic needle,  diflant  eaft-north-cafl  eighty-five  leagues  from 
Cape  Breton,  of  which  we  fhall  fpeak  hereafter. 

On  the  12th  of  May,  we  entered  another  port,-''  five  leagues 
from  Cap  de  la  Heve,  where  we  captured  a  veffel  engaged 
in  the  fur-trade  in  violation  of  the  king's  prohibition.     The 

mafter's 

Champlain's  Explanation  of  the   accompanying  Map. 

PoKT   DK   LA   HeVB. 


The  figures  indicate  fathoms  of  water. 

A.  The  place  where  veffels  anchor.    B.  A  fmall  river  dry  at  low  tide. 


C. 


Places  where  the  favaijes  have  their  cabins.^  D.  Shoal  at  the  entrance  of  the 
harbor.'-'  E.  A  fmall  ifluid  covered  with  wood.^  K  Cape  de  la  Htve.*  G.  Bay 
where  thee  are  many  iflands  covered  with  wood.  //.  A  river  extending  fix  or 
feven  leagues  inland  with  but  little  water.    /.  A  pond  near  the  fca. 

Notes,  i.  The  letter  C  is  w.i.  ng.  but  the  location  of  the  cabins  is  obvious. 
2.  The  letter  D  is  alfo  wantintr,  init  the  figures  lufficiently  indicate  the  deptli  of 
the  water.  3.  The  letter  /f  appears  twice  Ijy  inirtake.  4.  The  letter  /•'  is  like- 
wife  wanting.  It  has  been  fuppo"  d  to  be  reprefented  by  one  of  the  /i's  on  the 
fmall  ifland,  but  Cap  de  la  H(ive,  to  which  it  refers,  was  not  on  thisifland,  but  on 
the  main  land.  The  F  fhould  have  been,  we  think,  on  the  weft  of  the  harbor, 
where  the  elevation  is  indicated  on  the  map.     l^t'de  note  22. 


commanding,  rocky  bluff,  known  as  Ca/> 
lit  la  llh'c.  The  place  which  they  firlt 
fighted.  finiilar  at  lealt  in  fome  refpecls, 
they  evidently  named  after  this  bold  and 
ftriking  lieadland,  which  may,  perhaps, 
have  l)een  the  laft  objefl  which  they  faw 
on  leaving  tlie  fliores  of  France.  The 
word  Hh'c  feems  to  have  hid  a  local 
meaning,  as  may  be  inferred  from  the 
following  excerpt :  "  A  name,  in  Lower 
Normandy,  for  cliffs  hollowed  out  l)elow, 
and  where  fifhcrmcn  foarcli  for  crabs." 
—  Littrd.     The   harbor   delineated   on 


Champlain's  local  man  is  now  called 
I'almerllon  Bay,  and  is  at  the  mouth  of 
I'etit  River.  The  latitude  of  tliis  harbor 
is  about  44°  15'.  De  Lact's  defcription 
is  fuller  than  that  of  Champlain  or  Lef- 
carbot.  —  Vide  Novus   Orbis,    1633,  p. 

51- 
28  Liverpool,  which  for  a  long  time 

bore  the  name  of  Port  Koffignol ;  the 

lake  at  the  head  of  the  river,  about  ten 

miles  long  and  two  or  three  wide,  the 

largeft  in  Nova  Scotia,  flill  bears  that 

appellation.     The  latitude  is  44°  2'  30". 


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Sie7ir  dc  CliaDiplain, 


II 


mailer's  nanu'  was  Rofll^L^nol,  whofe  name  the  port  retained, 
which  is  in  latitude  44°  15'. 

On  tlie  13th  of  May,  wc  arrived  at  a  very  fine  harbor, 
where  there  are  two  Httle  Hreams,  called  Port  au  IMouton,'-* 
which  is  leven  leatrues  dillant  from  that  of  Roffi«;nol.  The 
land  is  very  ftony,  and  covered  with  copfe  and  heath,  'inhere 
arc  a  great  many  rabbits,  and  a  quantity  of  game  in  confe- 
quence  of  the  ponds  there. 

As  foon  as  we  had  difembarked,  each  one  conuuenced 
making  huts  after  his  fathion,  on  a  point  at  the  entrance  of 
the  harbor  near  two  frefh-water  ponds.  Sieur  de  Monts  at 
the  fame  time  defpatched  a  fliallop,  in  which  he  fent  one  of 
us,  with  (omc  favages  as  guides,  as  bearers  of  letters,  along 
the  coaft  of  La  Cadie,  to  fearch  for  Pont  Grave,  who  had  a 
portion  of  the  necelTary  fupplies  for  our  winter  fojourn.  The 
latter  was  found  at  the  Bay  of  All-Ifles,'^^'  very  anxious  about 

us 

Champlain's  Explanation  of  the    accompanying  Map. 

Port  du  Ro.ssk;n()l. 
The  figures  indicate  fathoms  of  water, 

A.  A  river  extending  twenty-five  leagues  inland.  B.  Tiie  place  whore  veflels 
anchor.  C.  Place  on  the  main  land  where  the  favages  have  their  d. veilings. 
D  Roadftead  where  velTels  anchor  while  waiting  for  the  tide.  /•;.  I'l:  re  on  the 
ifland  where  the  favages  have  their  cabins.  F.  Ciiannel  dry  at  low  tide.  C. 
Shore  of  the  main  land.     The  dotted  places  indicate  the  flioals. 

NoTK.  It  would  feem  as  if  in  the  title  RofTynol,  on  the  map,  tiie  two  dots  on 
the/  inftead  of  the  n  were  placed  there  by  millake. 


"  "  Lequel  ils  appel^rent  Lc  Port  du  bears  the  name  of  Port  Mouton,  and  an 

Mouton,  h  I'occafion  d'un  mouton  qui  illand  in  the  bay  is  called  Mouton   If- 

I  eltant  nov(^  rcvint  h.  bord.  et  fut  mangd  land. 

de  bonne  'A^itrrt.'' —  Ht/loire  tie  la  •'«  Bave  tie  Totttes-iflc^.  I.efcarbot 
^fluvelle- France,  par  Marc  Lefcarbot,  calls  it  "  La  Baye  dcs  lies  :"  and  Char- 
Fans,  1612,  Qvat.  l.iv.  p.  449.     It  am  levoix,  "Baye  de  toutes  les  Hies."     It 

was 


k 


12 


Voyai^'cs  of 


J 


I 

! 


US  (for  lie  knew  notliiiii;  of  the  clian<;e  of  plan) ;  and  the  letters 
were  handed  to  him.  As  foon  as  he  had  read  llieni,  he  returned 
to  his  Ihip  at  Canfeaii,  where  he  fei/.ed  fome  Uaftjue  verfels'"'*' 
cncjaiL^ed  in  the  fur-trade,  notwithllandinj^  the  prohibition  of 
his  Ahijefly,  and  fent  their  mailers  to  Sieur  de  iMonts,  who 
meanwhile  charged  me  to  reconnoitre  the  coall  and  the  liar- 
bors  fuitable  for  the  fecure  reception  of  our  velTel. 

With  the  purpofe  of  carryii^t;  out  his  willies,  I  let  out  from 
I'ort  Mouton  on  the  19th  of  May,  in  a  barcjue  of  eiujht  tons, 
accompanied  by  Sieur  Kalleau,  his  lecretary,  and  ten  men. 
Advancing  along  the  coall,  wc  entered  a  harbor  very  con- 
venient for  veffels,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a  Imall  river,  ex- 
tending very  far  into  the  main  land.  This  I  called  the  Port 
of  Cape  Negro,-'  from  a  rock  whofe  dillant  view  refembles  a 
negro,  which  rifcs  out  of  the  water  near  a  cape  palTed  by  us 
the  fame  day,  four  leagues  off  and  ten  from  Port  IMouton. 
This  cape  is  very  dangerous,  on  account  of  the  rocks  run- 
ning out  into  the  fea.  The  lliores  which  I  law,  up  to  that 
point,  are  very  low,  and  covered  with  fuch  wood  as  that  feen 
at  the  Cap  dc  la  Heve ;  and  the  illands  arc  all  filled  with 
game.  Going  farther  on,  we  i)aned  the  night  at  Sable  Bay,-" 
where  veffels  can  anchor  without  any  danger.  ^, 

was  tlie  bay,  or  ratlicr  tlie  waters,  ll)at  iliat  a  conipromife  wniilfl  have  liccii  l)et- 

llrL'tch    alonu;    the    (liorcs    of    Halifax  ler  policy  t'i:in  an  entire  confilVation  of 

County,  lietween  Owrs    Mead  ami   Lit-  tlieir  property,  as  tliele   ISalques  after- 

tonil)   Kiver.  wards,  on  tlieir  retnrn  to  France,  ,u;ave 

-''  TIic  confifcatcd  provifions  taken  in  him  iVrious  inconvenience.     They  were 

tlie  velVels  of  the  ISalque  t'ur-traders  and  inllrumental    mainly    in    wrelling    Irom 

in  that  of  Koffii^nol  were,  accordint;  to  him  his  charter  of  La  Cadie. 

Lefcarbot,  found  very  ufeful.    l)e  Monts  -"  I.c  Port  dii  Cap  i\\\ij;ri!.    This  port 

had  jfiven  timely  notice  of  his  mono]j(ily;  Hill  bears  the  name  of  Ne<;ro  Harl)or. 

and,  whether  it  liad  reached  tliem  or  not,  It  is  I'ttuated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Clyde, 

tlicy  were  doulitlefs  wroni^  in  law.     Al-  the  finall  river  referred  to  in  tlie  text, 

thouj^h    I)e   Monts   treated    them   with  -''  Near  Cape  Sable  1  Hand,  at  what  i.s 

gcntlenefs,  neverthelels  it  is  not  nnlikely  now  known  as  Harrington  Harljor. 


t 


Siciii'  di'  Chaiiiplain. 


>3 


•J8 


Tlio  next  day  wc  ^vcnt  to  Cape  Sable,-''  alfi)  very  danjjjcr- 
ous,  in  confctiiicncc  of  certain  rocks  and  reefs  extendiiiij; 
alnioU  a  league  into  the  Tea.  It  is  two  lea'j;ues  from  Sable 
Uay,  where  we  had  fjient  the  nigiU  l)efore.  'I'heiice  we  went 
to  Cormorant  Illand;"'  a  Icai^ue  dillant,  fo  called  from  the 
infinite  number  of  cormorants  found  tlicre,  of  whofe  ej^jjjs 
we  eollceled  a  cask  full.  I-'rom  this  illand,  we  faikd  wcUcrly 
about  fix  leai;ues,  crofrmi;  a  bas',  which  makes  up  to  the 
north  two  or  three  leagues.  Then  we  fell  in  with  feveral 
illands  "  dillant  two  or  three  leagues  from  the  main  land  ;  and, 
as  well  as  I  could  judge,  foine  of  them  were  two  leagues  in 
extent,  others  three,  and  oIIum's  were  Hill  fmalk-r.  ]\h)(l  of 
them  are  very  dangerous  for  large  velTels  to  api)roach,  on 
account  of  the  tides  and  the  rocks  on  a  level  with  the  water. 
Thefe  iHands  are  filled  with  pines,  firs,  birches,  and  afpens. 
A  little  farther  out,  there  are  four  more.  In  one,  we  faw  fo 
great  a  quantity  of  birds,  called  penguins,''-   that  we  killed 

them 


■-»  'I'his  is  llill  called  Cape  Sable,  and 
is  the  fmitlieni  pdint  of  SaMe  Ill.uid, 
or,  moif  jji-operiy.  tiie  chiller  of  rock, 
ami  iiicts  that  rurroiiiid  its  Ibutherii  ex- 
tremity. 

*'  Jjlc  ait.v  Coniioniiis.  It  is  ditTi- 
ciilt  to  dilliiimiilli  with  certainty  the 
illind  here  referred  to,  hut  it  was 
]iri)halily  Hope  Illand.  as  this  lies 
(liieLlly  in  their  way  in  crolling  the 
hay,  llx  leagues  wide,  which  is  now 
known  as  Townfend  I5ay.  The  bird 
here  mentioned  was  the  common  cor- 
morant, (iiiuuliis  car/io,  of  a  uloliy 
j>rcenilh-black  color,  back  and  wint^s 
broiizy-,-r,iy  ;  about  three  feet  in  lenj^th, 
and  is  co'u'mon  on  our  northern  Atlantic 
coall:  eminently  ,i;re;j;arious,  i)anicnlarly 
in  the  breeding  iValun,  cou'^regating  in 
vaft   Hocks.      At   the   prelent    time,  it 


breeds  in  great  numbers  in  Labr.ulor 
and  Xewfiiundland.  and  in  the  winter 
miu'iates  as  tar  louth  as  the  .Middle 
States.  They  feed  princijj.dly  upon  lilli, 
la)'  commonly  two  e;;gs.  of  a  pale  ^reen- 
ilh  color,  overl.dd  with  a  white  chalky 
I'ubllance.  —  /VV/i;'  Cotics's  k'ev  to  Aor. 
.l/Ji.  Jiin/.\\  liollon,  I.S72,  ]).  302. 

"'  A  chiller  of  illands  udw  known  as 
the  Toulquet  or  'I'ulkel  illands.  Fur- 
ther on,  Champlain  lays  they  named 
them  /jlt's  tiii.r  /oiips  //liirins,  Sea-Wolf 
Illands.  About  five  leagues  Ibulh  ol' 
them  is  an  illand  now  called  Seal  Illand. 
The  four  more  which  he  law  a  little 
further  on  were  probably  in  Townfend 
Day. 

'■^-  This  is  the  Auk,  family  Alcuhe.  and 
mull  not  be  confounded  with  the  pen- 
guin of  the  Ibuthernhemifphere,  although 

it 


14 


Voyages  of 


them  cafily  with  flicks.  On  another,  \vc  found  the  fliore  com- 
pletely covered  with  fea-wolves,''  of  which  we  captured  as 
many  as  we  wilhed.  At  the  two  others  there  is  fuch  an 
abundance  of  birds  of  different  forts  that  one  could  not  im- 
ai^ine  it,  if  he  had  not  feen  them.  There  are  cormorants, 
three  kinds  of  duck,  geefe,  mannettcs?,  buftards,  fea-parrots, 
fnipc,  vultures,  and  other  birds  of  prey;  gulls,  fea-larks  of 
two  or  three  kinds ;  herons,  large  fea-gulls,  curlews,  fea-mag- 
pies,  divers,  ofpreys,  appoi/s?,  ravens,  cranes,  and  other  forts 
which  I  am  not  acquainted  with,  and  which  alio  make  their 

nefls 


it  is  flefcribed  l)y  tlie  early  naviLT^tors  of 
tlie  Nortliern  Atlantic  under  that  appel- 
lation. In  Anthony  I'arUhurll's  letter 
to  Hakluyt,  1578,  he  lays:  '*  Thefe  birds 
are  alio  called  I'enfj;uins,  and  cannot 
file,  there  is  more  nieate  in  one  of  thefe 
then  in  a  j^oofe  :  the  Frenchmen  tiiat 
filh  neei..  the  jjrand  bale,  do  brin-r  fmall 
ilore  of  flefli  with  them,  but  victuall 
themfelues  aiwayes  with  thefe  birds."  — 
}lakli{yt,  London,  ed.  iSio,  V^)l.  III. 
p.  172.  Edward  Haies,  in  his  report  of 
the  voyage  of  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  in 
1 5S3,  lays:  "We  had  (i^ht  of  an  I  (land 
named  Tentjuin.  of  a  foule  there  breed- 
injf  in  abundance,  almoft  incredible, 
which  cannot  tlie.  their  wiiiL^s  not  able 
to  carry  their  body,  beinij  very  large 
(not  much  lelVe  then  a  goofe),  and  ex- 
coedint;  fat ;  which  the  Frenchmen  vie 
to  take  without  difficulty  v])on  that  If- 
land,  and  to  barrell  them  vp  with  fait." 
Idem,  p.  191. 

The  Auk  is  confined  to  the  norlhern 
hemiiphere.  where  it  rcprefents  the  pen- 
guins of  the  fouthern.  Several  fpecies 
occur  in  the  Norlhern  Atlantic  in  almoit 
incredible  numbers  ;  they  are  all  marine, 
feed  on  fifli  and  other  animal  fubllances 
exclulively,  and  lay  from  one  to  three 
eggs  on  the  bare  rocks.    Thofe  feen  by 


Champlain  and  other  ea'-ly  navigators 
were  the  Great  .Auk,  ^litu  itiipciiuis, 
now  nearly  extincl;.  It  was  formerly 
found  on  the  coart  of  New  Kngland,  as 
is  proved  not  only  by  the  tellimony  of  the 
primitive  explorers,  but  by  vhe  remains 
found  in  fliell-heaps.  The  latelt  dif- 
covery  was  of  one  found  de;.d  near  St. 
Augultine,  in  Labrador,  in  1870.  A 
fpecimen  of  the  Great  Aub  is  pre- 
ferved  in  the  Cambridge  Alufeum. — 
Vide  Cones' s  Key  to  A'otth  Am.  Birds, 
Bollon,  1872,  p.  338. 

*'  The  fea-wolforA'/c//;/  r/;/ of  Cham- 
plain  is  the  marine  mamniiferous  quad- 
ru])ed  of  the  family  Pliocidic,  known  as 
tiie  leal.  Sea-wolf  was  a  name  applied  to 
it  by  the  early  navigator.;.  —  Vide  J'l/r- 
c/uis's  Pili^rims,  London,  1625.  \'ol.  IV. 
p.  1385.  Thofe  here  mentioned  were  the 
common  feal,  I'/ioca  vitulitui,  which  are 
ftill  found  on  the  coalls  of  Nova  Scotia, 
vulgarly  known  as  the  harbor  feal.  They 
are  thinly  diltributed  as  far  fouth  as 
Long  Ili.ind  Sound,  l)ut  are  found  in 
great  numbers  in  the  waters  of  Labra- 
dor and  Newfoundland,  where  tlicy  are 
taken  for  the  oil  obtained  from  them, 
and  for  the  Ikins,  which  are  ufed  foi 
various  purpofes  in  the  arts. 


Sicur  lie  Champlain. 


15 


ncfls  licre;''*  We  named  thefe  Sea-Wolf  Iflands.  They  are  in 
latitude  43°  30',  diftant  from  four  to  five  leagues  from  the 
main  land,  or  Cape  Sable.  After  fpending  pleafantly  fome 
time  there  in  hunting  (and  not  without  capturing  much 
game),  we  fet  out  and  reached  a  cape,'"  which  we  chriftened 
Port  Fourchu  from  its  being  fork-(ha[)ed,  diftant  from  five 
to  fix  leagues  from  the  Sea-Wolf  Iflands.  ''liis  harbor  is 
very  convenient  for  veffels  at  its  entrance ;  but  its  remoter 
part  is  entirely  dry  at  low  tide,  except  the  channel  of  a  little 
ftream,  completely  bordered  by  meadows,  which  make  this 
fpot  very  pleafant.  There  is  good  codfiihing  near  the  har- 
bor. Departing  from  there,  we  failed  north  ten  or  twelve 
leagues  without  finding  any  harbor  for  our  veiTels,  but  a 
number  of  very  fine  inlets  or  fhores,  where  the  foil  feems  to 
be  well  adapted  for  cultivation.  The  woods  are  exceedingly 
fine  here,  but  there  are  few  pines  and  firs.  This  coaft  is 
clear,  without  iflands,  rocks,  or  flioals ;  fo  that,  in  our  judg- 
ment, veffels  can  fecurely  go  there.  Being  diflant  quarter 
of  a  league  from  the  coafl:,  we  went  to  an  ifland  called  Long 
Ifland;'"  lying  north-north -eaft  and  fouth-fouth-wefl,  which 
makes  an  opening  into  the  great  Baye  Fran9oife,''''  fo  named 
by  Sieur  de  Monts. 


•''*  The  names  <,nven  to  tlicfe  l)irds 
were  fiicli.  (loiihtlels,  as  were  known  to 
helouLi;  to  birds  limil.ir  in  color,  lize.  and 
figure  in  Europe.  Some  of"  tliem  were 
prolmbly  mirajjplied.  Tlie  name  alone 
is  not  rufficient  tor  identification. 

■*•-'  'I'iiis  ca])e,  near  :he  entrance  to 
^'arn1outll.  Hill  bears  the  fame  name, 
from  fourchu.  forked.  On  a  map  of 
1755.  it  is  called  Forked  Cape,  and 
near  it  is  Fork  Ledge  and  Forked  Har- 


This 

hor.  —  Memorials  of  K/ii^/ij/i  and 
Fri'iicli  Coiniiiifaries.  London,  1755. 

•'"  It  dill  retains  the  name  given  to  it 
by  Cliamplain.  It  forms  a  par;  of  the 
weltern  limit  of  St.  Mary's  Hay.  and  a 
line  drawn  from  it  to  the  St.  Croi.x',  cnt- 
tinjr  the  (irand  Manan,  would  mark  the 
entrance  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy. 

""  The  Hay  of  Fundy  was  thus  firlt 
named  '•  Ilaye  Fran(;oife"  by  De  Monts. 
and  continued  to  be  fo  called,  as  will 

appear 


wm 


1  i 


I    I 


i6 


Voyages  of 


This  idand  is  fix  leagues  long,  and  nearly  a  league  broad 
in  fome  places,  in  others  only  quarter  of  a  league.  It  is 
covered  with  an  abundance  of  wood,  fuch  as  pines  and  birch. 
All  the  coafi:  is  bordered  by  very  dangerous  rocks  ;  and  there 
is  no  i)lace  at  all  favorable  for  veffels,  only  little  inlets  for 
fliallops  at  the  extremity  of  the  ifland,  and  three  or  four 
fmall  rocky  iflands,  where  the  favages  capture  many  fea- 
wolves.  There  are  ftrong  tides,  efpecially  at  the  little  palTage  ^^ 
of  the  ifland,  which  is  very  dangerous  for  veffels  running  the 
riflv  of  paffing  through  it. 

From  Long  Ifland  paffage,  we  failed  north-eafh  two  leagues, 
when  we  found  a  cove^"  where  veffels  can  anchor  in  fafety, 
and  which  is  quarter  of  a  league  or  thereabouts  in  circuit. 
The  bottom  is  all  mire,  and  the  furroundino;  land  is  bordered 
by  very  high  rocks.  In  this  place  there  is  a  very  good  filvcr 
mine,  according  to  the  report  of  the  miner,  Maflcr  Simon, 
who  accompanied  me.  Some  leagues  farther  on,  there  is 
a  little  ftream  called  river  Boulay^'^  where  the  tide  rifes  half 
a  league  into  the  land,  at  the  mouth  of  which  veffels  of  a 
hundred  tons  can  eafily  ride  at  anchor.  Quarter  of  a  league 
from  here  there  is  a  good  harbor  for  veffels,  where  we  found 
an  iron  mine,  which  our  miner  cftimated  would  yield  fifty  per 

cent. 


appear  by  reference  to  tlie  early  maps, 
as  Uiat  of  De  Laet,  1633:  Cliarlevoix, 
1744  ;  Roiitie.  177S  It  firll  ajipears  dif- 
tinCtly  on  tlie  carte  of  Dic,i;o  Iloniem 
of  i55S,but  witliout  name.  On  Cabot's 
Mappe-Monde,  in  '•iMonuments  de  la 
Ciif()fira|)hie/'  we  find  riofomfo,  wliicli 
may  re])refent  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  and 
may  have  funnelled  the  name  adojMed 
by  the  En<,di(h,  whicli  it  ifill  retains. 
Sir  William  Alexander's  map,  1624,  has 


Arsjars  15ay ;  Moll's  map,  1712,  has 
Fundi  liay;  that  of  the  En<;li(h  and 
French  ConiniilVaries,  1755,  has  Bay  of 
Fundy.  or  Ar^al. 

^^  This  flrait.  known  by  the  name 
Petit  Tallage,  feparates  Long  Ifland 
from  Dis^by  Neck. 

*'  A  ])lace  called  Little  River,  on 
Diuby  Neck. 

^"  >fow  known  as  Sandy  Cove. 


i 


Siezcr  do  CIia7nplain,  17 

cent.-"     Advancing  three  leagues  farther  on  to  tlie  north- 
cad,'-  we  faw  another  very  good  iron  mine,  near  whicli  is  a 
river  furrounded  by  beautiful  and  attractive  meadows.     The 
neigliboring  foil  is  red  as  blood.     Some  leagues  farther  on 
there  is  ftill  another  river,^^^  dry  at  low  tide,  except  in  its  very 
fmall  channel,  and  which  extends  near  to   Port  Royal.     At 
the  extremity  of  this  bay  is  a  channel,  alfo  dry  at  low  tide," 
furrounding  which  are  a  number  of  paftures  and  good  pieces 
of  land  for  cultivation,  where  there   are   nevertheleis   o-reat 
numbers  of  fine  trees  of  all  the  kinds  previoufly  mentioned. 
The  diftancc  from   Long  IHand  to  the  end  of  this  bay  may 
be  fome  fix  leagues.     The  entire  coaft  of  the  mines  is  very 
high,  interfeaed  by  capes,  which  appear  round,  extendincr 
out  a  fhort  diftance.     On  the  other  fide  of  the  bay,  on  the 
fouth-eaft,  the  land  is  low  and  good,  where  there  is  a  very 
good  harbor,  having  a  bank  at  its  entrance  over  which  it  is 
necelfary  to  pafs.     On  this  bar  there  is  a  fathom  and  a  half 
of  water  at  low  tide  ;  but  after  paffing  it  you  find  three,  with 
good  bottom.     Between  the  two  points  of  the  harbor  there  is 
a  pebbly  iflet,  covered  at  full  tide.     This  place  extends  half  a 
league  inland.     The  tide  falls  here  three  fathoms,  and  there 
are  many  fliell-fifli,  fuch  as  mufcles,  cockles,  and  fea-fiiails. 
1  he  foil  IS  as  good  as  any  that  I  have  feen.     I  named  this 
harbor  Samt  Margaret.^    This  entire  fouth-eaft  coaft  is  much 

lower 


"  I.cfcarlmt  fays  of   this  iron  mine, 


redly  opiKoiUe   Sandy  Cove,   near  the 
iron  mine  mentioned  above. 


'^m 


J ,  2 


Ml  I 


I 


I 

:  ( 


18 


Voyages  of 


lower  than  that  of  the  mines,  wliich  is  only  a  league  and  a 
half  from  the  coaft  of  Saint  Margaret,  being  feparatecl  by  the 
breadth  of  die  bay,'"'  which  is  three  leagues  at  its  entrance.  I 
took  the  altitude  at  this  place,  and  found  the  latitude  45"  30', 
and  a  little  more,"*'  the  defleclion  of  the  magnetic  needle 
being  17*^  16'. 

After  having  explored  as  particularly  as  I  could  the  coafls, 
ports,  and  harbors,  I  returned,  without  advancing  any  farther, 
to  Long  Ifland  paffage,  whence  I  went  back  outlide  of  all  the 
iflands  in  order  to  obferve  whether  there  was  any  danger  at 
all  on  the  water  fide.  But  we  found  none  whatever,  except 
there  were  fome  rocks  about  half  a  league  from  Sea-Wolf 
Iflands,  which,  however,  can  be  eafily  avoided,  fince  the  lea 
breaks  over  them.  Continuing  our  voyage,  we  were  overtaken 
by  a  violent  wind,  which  obliged  us  to  run  our  barque  alhore, 
where  we  were  in  dansfer  of  lofins:  her,  which  would  have 
caufed  us  extreme  perplexity.  The  tempeft  having  ceafed, 
we  refumed  the  fea,  and  the  next  day  reached  Port  Mouton, 
where  Sieur  de  Monts  was  awaiting  us  from  day  to  day, 
thinking  only  of  our  long  ftay,"*^  and  whether  fome  accident 
had  not  befallen  us.     I  made  a  report  to  him  of  our  voyage, 

and 


■'•'  The  diftance  acrofs  the  bay  at  this 
point,  as  here  ftated,  is  nearly  accurate. 

^''  'I'iiis  is  clearly  a  miftake  ;  the  true 
latitude  at  the  Fetit  I'alTaj^e  is  44°  23'. 
It  may  here  be  remarked  tliat  Cham- 
plain's  latitudes  are  very  inaccurate, 
often  varyinij  more  than  lialf  a  dej^ree  ; 
doubtlefs  owinii;  to  the  imperfettion  of 
tlie  inllruments  wliich  were  employed  in 
taking;  them. 

*■*  They  had  been  occupied  in  tliis 
exploration  about  three  weeks.     Lef- 


carbot  fays  a  month,  but  this  is  an 
overflatement.  By  a  careful  examina- 
tion of  the  text,  it  will  appear  that  they 
departed  from  Port  Mouton  on  tlie  19th 
of  May,  and  thatfevcral  days  afier  their 
return,  not  lefs  than  nine,  tliey  were 
again  in  St.  Mary's  Bay,  on  the  16th  of 
June.  They  had  been  abfcnt.  therefore, 
about  twenty-one  days.  The  latitude 
of  Port  Mouton,  Hated  a  little  below  to 
be  44°,  is  in  faft  43°  57'. 


Siettr  lie  CJiamplain. 


19 


and  where  our  veffels   might  go  in   fafety.      Meanwhile,  I 
obferved  very  particularly   that  place  which    is    in   latitude 

o 

44. 

The  next  day  Sieur  de  Monts  gave  orders  to  weigh  anchor 
and  proceed  to  the  Bay  of  Saint  Mary/"  a  place  which  we 
had  found  to  be  fuitable  for  our  veffel  to  remain  in,  until  we 
fhould  be  able  to  find  one  more  advantaQ:eous.  Coallintj: 
along,  we  paffed  near  Cape  Sable  and  the  Sea-Wolf  Iflands, 
whither  Sieur  de  Monts  decided  to  go  in  a  fhallop,  and  fee 
fome  iflands  of  which  we  had  ir.ade  a  report  to  him,  as  a'fo 
of  the  countlefs  number  of  birds  found  there.  Accordingly, 
he  fet  out,  accompanied  by  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt,  and  fevcral 
other  noblemen,  with  the  intention  of  going  to  Penguin 
Ifland,  where  we  had  previoufly  killed  with  flicks  a  large 
number  of  thefe  birds.  Being  fomewhat  diftant  from  our 
fliip,  it  was  beyond  our  power  to  reach  it,  and  flill  lefs  to 
reach  our  veffel ;  for  the  tide  was  fo  flrong  that  we  were 
compelled  to  put  in  at  a  little  ifland  to  pafs  the  night,  where 
there  was  much  game.  I  killed  there  fome  river-birds,  which 
were  very  acceptable  to  us,  efpecially  as  we  had  taken  only  a 
few  bifcuit,  expedling  to  return  the  fame  day.  The  next 
day  we  reached  Cape  Fourchu,  diflant  half  a  league  from  there. 
Coafting  along,  we  found  our  veffel  in  the  Bay  of  Saint  Mary. 
Our  company  were  very  anxious  about  us  for  two  days,  fear- 
ing left  fome  misfortune  had  befallen  us ;  but,  when  they  faw 
us  all  fafe,  they  were  much  rejoiced. 

Two  or  three  days  after  our  arrival,  one  of  oui   priefts, 

named 

*»  This  bay,  mil  retaining  its  ancient  nommce  la  baye  Sainde  Marie."  — 
ai)pellalion.  was  so  named  by  Cham-  Champlain's  Voyages,  xC^-^i^Owi^h^iz  c^A.. 
plain  on  his  firft  vifit.     "  Celle  baye  fut    Vol.  V.  p.  716. 


M. 


'"^^ 


i  c 


ii  i 


'■ 


20 


Voyages  of 


named  Mefire  Aubry""  from  Paris,  got  loft  fo  completely  in 
the  woods  while  going  after  his  fword,  which  he  hud  for- 
gotten, that  he  could  not  find  the  veffel.  And  he  was  thus 
feventeen  days  without  any  thing  to  fubfift  upon  except  fome 
four  and  bitter  plants  like  the  forrel,  and  fome  fmall  fruit  of 
little  fubftance  large  as  currants,  which  creep  upon  the 
ground.^^  Being  at  his  wits'  end,  without  hope  of  ever  fee- 
ing us  agam,  weak  and  feeble,  he  found  himfelf  on  the  (hore 
of  Baye  Fran9oife,  thus  named  by  Sieur  de  Monts,  near  Long 
Ifland,°^  where  his  ftrength  gave  out,  when  one  of  our  fliallops 
out  fifliing  difcovered  him.  Not  being  able  to  fhout  to  them, 
he  made  a  fign  with  a  pole,  on  the  end  of  which  he  had  put 
his  hat,  that  they  fliould  go  and  get  him.  This  they  did  at 
once,  and  brought  him  off.  Sieur  de  Monts  had  caufed 
a  fearch  to  be  made  not  only  by  his  own  men,  but  alfo  by 
the  favages  of  thofe  parts,  who  fcoured  all  the  woods,  but 

brought 


*"  Nicholas  Aubry,  a  young  Parifian 
of ,  good  family,  "  vn  certain  homme 
d'Eglife,"  as  Lefcarbot  fays,  proba- 
bly not  long  in  holy  orders,  had  under- 
taken this  voyage  with  De  Monts  to 
gratify  his  defire  to  fee  the  New  World, 
though  quite  againft  the  wiflies  of  his 
friends,  who  had  fent  in  vain  to  Hon- 
fleur  to  prevent  his  embarkation.  Af- 
ter the  fearch  made  by  De  Monts, 
with  the  founding  of  trumpets  and  the 
difcharge  of  cannon,  they  left  St. 
Mary's  Bay,  having  given  up  all  ex- 
pedation  of  his  recovery.  Some  two 
weeks  afterward,  an  expedition  was  fent 
out  to  St.  Mary's  Bay,  conducted  by 
De  Champdord.  an  experienced  pilot, 
with  a  mineralogift,  to  fearch  for  fdver 
and  iron  ore.  While  fome  of  the  party 
were  on  a  filhing  excurfion,  they  refcued 


him,  as  ftated  in  the  text.  Tlie  fafe  re- 
turn of  the  young  and  too  venturefome 
ecclefiallic  gave  great  relief  to  De  Monts, 
as  Lefcar])ot  fays  a  Proteftant  was 
charged  to  have  killed  him,  becaufe 
they  quarrelled  fometimes  about  their 
religion.  —  Vide  Hijloire  de  A'oux'elle- 
France,^7ir  Marc  Lefcarbot,  Paris,  161 2, 
Qvat.  Liv.  p.  453- 

^1  The  partridge-berry,  Mitchella,  a 
trailing  evergreen,  bearing  fcarlct  ber- 
ries, edible  but  nearly  t.iftelefs,  which 
remain  through  the  winter.  It  is  pecu- 
liar to  America,  and  this  is  probably 
the  firft  time  it  was  noticed  by  any 
hiftorical  writer. 

*'^  He  was  on  the  weftern  fide  of 
Digby  Neck,  at  its  fouthem  extremity, 
near  the  Petit  Paffage  on  the  fhore  of 
the  Bay  of  Fundy. 


Sietcr  ds  Champlain. 


21 


brouglit  back  no  intelligence  of  him.  Believing  him  to  be 
dead,  they  all  faw  him  coming  back  in  the  fliallop  to  their 
great  delight.  A  long  time  was  needed  to  reftorc  him  to  his 
ufual  flrength. 


CHAPTER   III. 


Description  of  Port  Royal  and  the  Peculiarities  of  the  Same.  —  Isle 
Haute.— Port  of   Mines.  — IJaye  Francoise.— The  River   St.  John, 

and  what  we  OnSERVED  liETWEEN   THE   PORT  OF    MiNES   AND   THE   SAME. 

—  The  Island  called  by  the  Savages  Manthane.  —  The    River  of 

THE     ETECHEMINS,     AND     SEVERAL     FiNE     ISLANDS     THERE.  —  bT.     CROIX 

Island,  and  other  Noteworthy  Ohjects  on  this  Coast. 

OME  days  after,  Sieur  de  Monts  decided  to  go 
and  examine  the  coafts  of  Baye  Fran^oife.  For 
this  purpofe,  he  fet  out  from  the  veffel  on  the 
1 6th  of  May,^  and  we  went  through  the  ftrait 
of  Long  Ifland.^  Not  having  found  in  St.  Ma- 
ry's Bay  any  place  in  which  to  fortify  ourfelves  except  at  the 
coft  of  much  time,  we  accordingly  refolved  to  fee  whether  there 
might  not  be  a  more  favorable  one  in  the  other  bay.  Head- 
ing north-eafl  fix  leagues,  there  is  a  cove  where  veffels  can 
anchor  in  four,  five,  fix,  and  feven  fathoms  of  water.  The 
bottom  is  fandy.  This  place  is  only  a  kind  of  roadflead.^' 
Continuing  two  leagues  farther  on  in  the  fame  dired:ion,  we 
entered  one  of  the  finefl:  harbors  I  had  feen  alonsf  all  thefe 

coafls, 

58  For  May  read  June.     It  could  not  "  What    is    now    called    the    Petit 

have  been  in  May.  (ince  Champlain  fet  PaiTage.    the     narrow    ftrait     between 

out  from  Port  Mouton  on  his  exploring  Long   Ifland  and   Digby  Neck, 

expedition  on  the  19th  of  May,  which  ^i*  Gulliver's  Hole,  about  two  leagues 

muft   have  been  a  month  previous  to  fouth-weft  of  Digby  Strait, 
this. 


:& 


4. 


22 


w 


Voyages  of 


coafts,  in  which  two  thoufand  veffcls  might  lie  in  fccurity. 
The  cMitrancc  is  ciglit  hundred  paces  broad ;  then  you  enter 
a  harbor  two  leai^ues  \ox\z  ^nd  one  broad,  which  I  have 
named  Port  Royal/'*'  Three  rivers  empty  into  it,  one  of 
which  is  very  large,  extending  caftward,  and  called  Riviere 
de  rEquille,'''  from  a  little  fifli  of  the  fize  of  an  efplan  ?,  which 
is  caught  there  in  large  numbers,  as  is  alfo  the  herring,  and 
feveral  other  kinds  of  fifli  found  in  abundance  in  their  feafon. 
This  river  is  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  league  broad  at  its  en- 
trance, where  there  is  an  ifland "'"'''  perhaps  half  a  league  in 
circuit,  and  covered  with  wood  like  all  the  reft  of  the  coun- 

try, 

Champlain's  Description  of  the  accompanying  Map. 

Port  au  Mouton. 
Ttu  figures  indicate  fathoms  of  water. 

A.  Place  where  velTcls  lie.  B.  Place  where  we  made  our  camp.  C.  A  pond. 
D.  An  ifland  at  the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  covered  with  wood.  E.  A  river  very 
fliallow.  F.  A  pond.  G.  A  very  large  brook  coming  from  the  pond  F.  H.  Six 
little  iflan^s  in  the  harbor.  L.  Country,  containing  only  copfe  and  heath  of  very 
fmall  fize.     M.  Sea-(hore. 

NoTK.  —  The  wanting  letter  L  fliould  probably  be  placed  where  the  trees  are 
reprefented  as  very  fmall,  between  the  letters  B  and  the  ifland  F. 


'"  Champlain  here  names  the  whole 
harbor  or  bafm  Port  Royal,  and  not  the 
place  of  habitation  afterward  fo  called. 
The  firfl;  fettlement  was  on  the  north 
fide  of  the  bay  in  the  prefent  hamlet 
of  Lower  Granville,  not  as  often  al- 
leged at  Annapolis.  — Vide  Champlain's 
engraving  or  map  of  Port  Royal. 

*^  ''  Equille."  A  nam&,  on  the  coafls 
between  Caen  and  Havre,  of  the  fifli 
called  laii^on  at  Granville  and  St. 
Malo,  a  kind  of  malacopterygious  fifh, 


living  on  fandy  fliores  and  hiding  in 
the  fand  at  low  tide. — Littr^.  A  fpe- 
cies  of  fand  eel.  This  ftream  is  now 
known  as  the  Annapolis  River.  Lef- 
carbot  calls  it  Rivi6re  du  Dauphin. 

*8  This  ifland  is  fituated  at  the  point 
where  the  Annapolis  River  flows  into  the 
bay,  or  about  nine  miles  from  Digby, 
ftraight.  Champlain  on  his  map  gives 
it  no  name,  but  Lefcarbot  calls  it 
Biencourville.  It  is  now  called  Goat 
Ifland. 


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Sicur  de  Cliaviplain. 


23 


try,  as  pines,  firs,  fpruccs,  birches,  afpens,  and  Tome  oaks, 
alth()Ui;h  the  latter  are  found  in  fmall  numbers  in  compari- 
fon  with  the  other  kinds.  There  are  two  entrances  to  the 
above  river,  one  on  the  north,  the  other  on  the  fouth  fide  of 
the  ifland.  That  on  the  north  is  the  better,  and  veffels  can 
there  anchor  under  fhelter  of  the  ifland  in  five,  fix,  feven, 
eight,  and  nine  fathoms.  But  it  is  neceffary  to  be  on  one's 
cuard  atrainfi:  fome  fliallows  near  the  ifland  on  the  one  fide, 
and  the  main  land  on  the  other,  very  dangerous,  if  one  does 
not  know  the  channel. 

We  afccnded  the  river  fome  fourteen  or  fifteen  leagues, 
where  the  tide  rifes,  and  it  is  not  navigable  much  far- 
ther. It  has  there  a  breadth  of  fixty  paces,  and  about  a 
fathom  and  a  half  of  water.  The  country  bordering  the 
river  is  filled  with  numerous  oaks,  afiics,  and  other  trees. 
Between  the  mouth  of  the  river  and  the  point  to  which  we 
afcended  there  are  many  meadows,  which  are  flooded  at  the 
fpring  tides,  many  little  flreams  traverfing  them  from  one 
fide  to  the  other,  through  which  fliallops  and  boats  can  go 
at  full  tide.  This  place  was  the  mofl;  favorable  and  agreeable 
for  a  fetdement  that  we  had  fecn.  There  is  another  ifland "" 
within  the  port,  diflant  nearly  two  leagues  from  the  former. 
At  this  point  is  another  litfle  flream,  extending  a  confidcr- 
able  diflance  inland,  which  we  named  Riviere  St.  Antoine.''" 
Its  mouth  is  diflant  from  the  end  of  the  Bay  of  St.  Mary 
fome  four  leagues  through  the  woods.     The  remaining  river 

is 

"»  Lefcarbot  calls  it  Claudiane.     It  is  rived  from  the  French  pronunciation  of 

now  known   as   Hear    liland.      It  was  the  lall  fyllabie  of  Imhert. 

fometimes    called    He    d'Ht^hert,    and  "«  At  prelent  known  as  Bear  River ; 

likewile     Imhert     Ifland.      Laverdiilire  Lefcarbot  has  it   Hcbert,  and   Charle- 

fuj^gofls  that  the  prefent  name   is  de-  voix,  Imbert. 


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24 


Voyages  of 


is  only  a  fmall  flream  filled  with  rocks,  which  cannot  be 
afcendcd  at  all  on  account  of  the  fmall  amount  of  water, 
and  which  has  been  named  Rocky  Brook.'''  This  place  is  in 
latitude"-  45°;  and  17"  8'  of  the  dcfiedion  of  the  magnetic 
needle. 

After  having  explored  this  harbor,  we  fet  out  to  advance 
farther  on  in  Baye  Fran9oife,  and  fee  whether  we  could  not 
find  the  copper  mine,"^  which  had  been  difcovered  the  year 
before.     Heading  north-eafl,  and  failing  eight  or  ten  leagues 

along 


<\  ^ 


1 


! 


Champlain's  Desckii'tion  of  the  Map. 

Port  Royal. 
T}ie  figures  indicate  fathoms  of  tvater. 

A.  Our  habitation.^  B.  Garden  of  Sieur  cle  Champlain.  C.  Road  through 
the  woods  that  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  had  made.  D.  Ifland  at  the  mouth  of 
Equille  River.  E.  Entrance  to  Port  Royal,  F.  Shoals,  dry  at  low  tide.  G. 
River  St.  Antoine.^  H.  Place  under  cultivation  for  fowing  wheat.'  /.  Mill  that 
Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  had  made.  Z..  Meadows  overflowed  at  higheft  tides.  Af. 
Equille  River.  A^.  Seacoaft  of  Port  Royal.  O,  Ranges  of  mountains.  P.  Ifland 
near  the  river  St.  Antoine.  Q.  Rocky  Brook.''  A*.  Another  brook.'*  S,  Mill 
River."  7'.  Small  lake.  V.  Place  where  the  favages  catch  herring  in  the  fea- 
fon.     X,  Trout  brook.''     Y.  A  lane  that  Sieur  de  Champlain  had  made. 

Notes,  i.  On  the  prefent  fite  of  Lower  Granville.  2.  The  ftream  weft  of 
river  St.  Antoin*;  is  the  Jogging  River.  3.  The  fite  of  the  prefent  town  of  An- 
napolis. 4.  Now  called  Deep  IJrook.  5.  Morris  River.  6.  Allen  River.  7.  Trout 
Brook  is  now  called  Shafer's  Brook,  and  the  firll  on  the  weft  is  Thome's,  and  the 
fecond  Scofield's  Brook. 


"1  On  modern  maps  called  Moofe 
River,  and  fometimes  Deep  lirook.  It 
i.s  a  few  miles  eaft  of  Bear  River. 

•'■^  The  latitude  is  here  overftated  :  it 
fliould  be  44°  30'  30". 

"^  On  tlie  preceding  year,  M.  Prevert 
of  St.  Malo  had  made  a  glowing  report 
oltenfivcly  bafcJ  oi\  his  own  obferva- 


tions  and  information  which  he  had  ©b- 
tained  from  the  Indians,  in  regard  to 
certain  mine:;  alleged  to  exift  on  the 
coaft  direflly  foMth  of  Northumber- 
land Strait,  and  about  the  head  of  the 
Bay  of  Fundy.  It  was  this  report  of 
Prevert  that  induced  the  prefent  fearch. 


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Sicttr  de  Chainplain, 


25 


along  the  coaft  of  Port  Royal,*'*  we  croffcd  a  part  of  the  bay 
fomc  five  or  fix  leagues  in  extent,  when  we  arrived  at  a  place 
which  we  called  the  Cape  of  Two  Bays ;  ^  and  we  paffed  by 
an  ifland  a  league  diflant  therefrom,  a  league  alfo  in  circuit, 
rifing  up  forty  or  forty-five  fathoms.™  It  is  wholly  furrounded 
by  great  rocks,  except  in  one  place  which  is  floping,  at  tiie 
foot  of  which  flope  there  is  a  pond  of  fait  water,  coming  from 
under  a  pebbly  point,  having  the  form  of  a  fpur.  The  fur- 
face  of  the  ifland  is  flat,  covered  with  trees,  and  containing 
a  fine  fpring  of  water.  In  this  place  is  a  copper  mine. 
Thence  we  proceeded  to  a  hr.rbor  a  league  and  a  half  diflant, 
where  we  fuppofed  the  copper  mine  was,  which  a  certain 
Prcvert  of  St.  Malo  had  difcovered  by  aid  of  the  favages 
of  the  country.  This  port  is  in  latitude  45°  40',  and  is  dry 
at  low  tide.*"'^  In  order  to  enter  it,  it  is  neceffary  to  place  bea- 
cons, and  mark  out  a  fand-bank  at  the  entrance,  which  borders 
a  channel  that  extends  along  the  main  land.  Then  you 
enter  a  b?v  nearly  a  league  in  length,  and  half  a  league  in 
breadth.     In   fome  places,  the  bottom  is  oozy  and  fandy, 

where 


^*  Along  the  Bay  of  Fundy  nearly 
parallel  to  the  bafin  of  Port  Royal 
would  better  exprefs  the  author's  mean- 
ing. 

®5  Cape  Chigne6lo,  the  point  where 
the  Bay  of  Fundy  is  bifurcated ;  the 
northern  arm  forming  Chignedo  Bay, 
and  the  fouthern,  the  Bay  of  Mines  or 
Minas  Bafin. 

^^  Ifle  Haute,  or  high  idand.  —  J/V/t- 
Charlevoix' s  Afap.  On  fome  maps  this 
name  has  been  ftrangely  perverted  into 
Ifle  Holt,  Ifle  Har,  &c.  Its  height  is 
320  feet. 

"■^  This  was  Advocate's  Harbor.  Its 
diflance  from  Cape  Chigne(5to  is  greater 


than  that  flated  in  the  text.  Further 
on,  Champlain  calls  it  two  leagues, 
which  is  nearly  correal.  Its  latitude  is 
about  45°  20'.  By  comparing  the  Ad- 
miralty charts  and  Champlain's  map  of 
this  harbor,  it  will  be  feen  that  impor- 
tant changes  have  taken  place  fir.ce 
1C04.  The  tongue  of  land  extending 
in  a  fouth-eafterly  direflion,  covered 
with  trees  and  flirubbery,  which  Cham- 
plain  calls  a  fand-bank,  has  entirely  dif- 
appeared.  The  ordinary  tides  rife  here 
from  thirty-three  to  thirty-nine  feet,  and 
on  a  fandy  fliore  could  hardly  fail  to 
produce  important  changes. 


I 


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26 


Voyages  of 


where  veffels  may  get  aground.  The  fea  falls  and  rifes  there 
to  the  extent  of  four  or  five  fathoms.  We  landed  to  fee 
whether  we  could  find  the  mines  which  Prevert  had  rej^orted 
to  us.  Having  gone  about  a  quarter  of  a  league  along  cer- 
tain mountains,  we  found  none,  nor  did  we  recognize  any 
refemblance  to  the  defcription  of  the  harbor  he  had  given 
us.  Accordingly,  he  had  not  himfelf  been  there,  but  probably 
two  or  three  of  his  men  had  been  there,  guided  by  fome 
favages,  partly  by  land  and  partly  by  little  ftreams,  while  he 
awaited  them  in  his  Ihallop  at  the  mouth  of  a  little  river  in 
the  Bay  of  St.  Lawrence."**  Thefe  men,  upon  their  return, 
brought  him  feveral  fmall  pieces  of  copper,  which  he  fliowed 
us  when  he  returned   from  his  voyage.     Neverthelels,  we 

found 


Champlain's  Description  of  the  Map. 

POKT   DBS   MiNEf. 

The  figures  indicate  fathoms  0/ water. 

A.  A  place  where  veffels  are  liable  to  run  aground.  B.  A  fmall  river.  C.  A 
tongue  of  land  compofed  of  fand.  D.  A  point  compofed  of  large  pebbles,  which 
i."-.  like  a  mole.  £.  Location  of  a  copper  mine,  which  is  covered  by  the  tide  twice 
a  day.  /<".  An  ifland  to  the  rear  of  the  Cape  of  Mines. ^  G.  Roadllead  where 
velTels  anchor  while  waiting  for  the  tide.  //.  Ifle  Haute,  which  is  a  league  and 
a  half  from  Port  of  Mines.  /.  Channel.  L.  Little  River.  xW.  Range  of  moun- 
tains along  the  coaft  of  the  Cape  of  Mines. 

Note.  i.  Now  called  Spencer's  Ifland.  Champlain  probably  obtained  his 
knowledge  of  this  ifland  at  a  fubfequent  vifit.  There  is  a  creek  extending  from 
near  Spencer's  Ifland  between  the  rocky  elevations  to  Advocate's  Harl)or,  or 
nearly  fo,  which  Champlain  does  not  appear  to  have  feen,  or  at  leaft  he  does  not 
repreient  it  on  his  map.  This  point,  thus  made  an  ifland  by  the  creek,  has  an 
elevation  of  five  hundred  feet,  at  the  bafe  of  which  was  the  copper  mine  which 
they  difcovered.  — l-Vde  note  67. 


•'^  According  to  the  Abbd  Laverdi^re,  the  lower  part  of  the  Gulf  was  fomctimes 
called  the  Bay  of  St.  Lawrence. 


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■■    ,        i'tf',   liy  ;.iiid  an.;    lAiJlly  'r'  'm,     Jm-  ;;v-,  ..liiic    t- 

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'   ■'    '    ■       •'      "^■^-    ^     '      ILI-K  '    ■          j"!;.-!-      :..'-'^     ilH;-!)  In  n     i.i;!!'. 

'^u)!i!4iii  nini  '■.••,.■/,. I  i'.,;,:;  |.,(,- ..■•,  (4' r  >  j. ;•<■•.  u-i>:  ;^    !,■     :i-i,v,.;| 

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' '      '■■■i  '.^i';>"!!   IS  :i  ir....'-i;    niv! 


*   •,;..-.  .: 


I  i 


■  'i  I'viri'ii;  1,1  !'ir.  if!  (  •  '  ..,   .  .    id  ;<|iit'n;  vy.  :.      '.  ,,,;  -■ 

V  :•>'     ''pCflvM-'s     lU;/,.;     !   ,-'i'-;-.   •        ;■  ,,,i_.,        .'f   vW'-' ,'■ 

..M.i.   iri,   viliicli  (.:!i,i;i.j,  ,(  ,  .;-,,-,  11., I  /.,--       r  ■-.  ;,;^-.o 

•i'i     it    til       ''  ■-'    1  1    1,,.       :  •;.,     !.    ■:  IV   ,;i.-      .., 

1.      ..T'..,.        /•/<■:  I.,:    ',    . 


1;.,  i;..    ;,,■!'..<    ■'         .!--V.!;,c--      'j-^ 


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.MIJV.-S 


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Sicnr  dc  C/uniip/diii. 


2^ 


found  in  this  liarbor  two  minus  of  what  focnKcl  to  he  copper, 
accordinij;  to  the  report  of  our  miner,  who  confulered  it 
very  good,  although  it  was  not  native  copper. 

The  head""  of  the  Baye  Fran^oife,  whicli  we  eroded,  is 
fifteen  leaiiues  inland.  All  tlie  land  which  we  have  'iK.x'w 
in  coarting  along  from  the  little  paffage  of  Long  Illand 
is  rocky,  and  there  is  no  place  except  Port  Royal  where  v(.f- 
fels  can  lie  in  fafety.  The  land  is  covered  with  i)ines  and 
birches,  and,  in  my  opinion,  is  not  very  good. 

On  the  20th  of  May,'"  we  fet  out  from  the  Port  of  Mines 
to  feek  a  place  adapted  for  a  permanent  flay,  in  order  to  lofe 
no  tip  2,  purpofmg  afterwards  to  return,  and  fee  if  we  could 
difcover  the  mine  of  pure  copper  which  Prevert's  men  had 
found  by  aid  of  the  favagcs.  \Vc  failed  wefl  two  leagues  as  far 
as  the  cape  of  the  two  bays,  then  north  five  or  fix  leagues  ; 
and  we  croffed  the  other  bay,^'  where  we  thought  the  copper 
mine  was,  of  which  we  have  already  fj)oken :  inafmuch  as 
there  are  there  two  rivers,'^  the  one  coming  from  the  dire6lion 
of  Cape  Breton,  and  the  other  froni  Gafpe  or  Tregatte,  near 
the  great  river  St.  Lawrence.  Sailing  weft  fome  fix  leagues, 
we  arriv'  I  at  a  little  river,"'  at  the  mouth  of  which  is  rather  a 

low 

""  They  liacl  jurt:  crofTccl  tlie  Ray  of  ''■^  Tlie    rivers    are   tlie    Cumberland 

Mines.      From   tlie   place   where   they  Bafin  with  its  tributaries  coming  from 

crolVed  it  to  its  heacl  it  is  not  far  from  the    eail,  and   the    I'etitcoudiac    (petit 

fifteen  leaijues.  and  it  is  about  the  fame  and  couth\  little  elbow,  from  the  auiile 

dillance  to   I'ort   Royal,  from  wiiich  he  formed  l)v  the  river  at   Monclon.  calL-d 

may  here  elbmate  the  dilLance  inland.  the    Hend),   wliich  flows   into   Sh?])o(ly 

""   Read  June. — Vide  anttui.  note   53.  15ay  comintj  from  the   north  or  the  di- 

'^  Chiijnedo    15ay.      Charlevoix   has  rection    of    C.afiJO.      Chami:)lain    men- 

Chij,niitou    ou    Beau    Baffin.      On    De  tions  all  thefe  particulars,  probably  as 

Laet's    Map    of    1633.   on    Jacob    von  anfwerins:  to   the  defcription  ^iven   to 

Meur's  of  1673,  and  Homenn's  of  1729.  them  by  M.  I'revert  of  the  i)Iace  where 

we  have   H.  dc  Cennes.     Tlic  Cape  of  co|)pc'r  mines  could  lie  found. 

Two  Bays  was  Cape  Chigiiecfo.  '»  Quaco  River,  at  the  mouth  of  which 

the 


1 


I 


W" 


28 


Voyages  of 


I! 


I 
\ 


\ 


low  cape,  extending  out  into  the  fea ;  and  a  fliort  diftance  in- 
land there  is  a  mountainj^  having  the  fhape  of  a  Cardinal's  hat. 
In  this  place  we  found  an  iron  mine.  There  is  anchorage  here 
only  for  Ihallops.  Fou."  leagues  weft  fouth-weft  is  a  rocky 
point '^^  extending  out  a  fnort  diftance  into  the  water,  where 
there  are  ftrong  tides  which  are  very  dangerous.  Near  the 
point  we  faw  a  cove  about  half  a  league  in  extent,  in  which 
we  fou'id  another  iron  mine,  alfo  very  good.  Four  leagues 
farther  on  is  a  fine  bay  running  up  into  the  main  land  ; '"  at 
the  extremity  of  which  there  are  three  iflands  and  a  rock  ;  two 
of  which  are  a  league  from  the  cape  towards  the  weft,  and  the 
other  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  largell  and  deepefl;  river  we  had 
yet  feen,  which  we  named  the  river  St.  John,  becaufe  it  was 
on  this  faint's  day  that  we  arrived  there."  By  the  favages  it  is 
called  Ouygoudy.    This  river  is  dangerous,  if  one  does  not  ob- 

ferve 


>. 


the  water  is  fliallow :  the  low  cape  ex- 
tending out  into  die  fea  is  that  on  which 
Quaco  Light  now  ftantls,  which  readies 
out  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  is  compara- 
tively low.  The  Hiore  from  Goofe  River, 
near  where  they  made  the  coaft,  is  very 
hii^h,  meafuring  at  different  points  783, 
735'  650,  400,  300,  300,  and  380  feet, 
while  the  "low  cape"  is  only  250  feet, 
and  near  it  on  the  weft  is  an  elevation 
of  400  feet.  It  would  be  properly  repre- 
fented  as  "  rather  a  low  cape  "  in  contra- 
dillinftion  to  the  neighboring  coaft. 
Iron  and  manganefe  are  found  here, 
and  the  latter  has  been  mined  to  fome 
extent,  but  is  now  difrontinued,  as  the  ev- 
penfe  is  too  great  for  the  prefent  times. 

"■•  This  mountain  is  an  elevation, 
eight  or  ten  miles  inland  from  Ouaco, 
which  may  be  feen  by  velTels  coalling 
along  from  St.  Martin's  Head  to  St. 
John:  it  is  indicated  on  the  charts  as 
Mt.  Theobald,  and  bears  a  ftriking  re- 


femblance,   as    Chami^lain    fuggefts,   to 
the  chapcau  dc  Cardinal. 

"5  McCoy's  Head,  four  leagues  well 
of  Quaco  :  the  "  cove  "  may  be  that  on 
the    eaft   into    which    (jardner's    Creek 
flows,  or  that  on  the  wefl  at  the  mout' 
of  Emmerfon's  Creek. 

'"  The  Bay  of  St.  John,  which  is  four 
leagues  fouth-weft  of  McCoy's  Head. 
The  illands  mentioned  are  Partridge 
I  Hand  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  and 
two  fmaller  ones  farther  welt,  one  Meo- 
genes,  and  tiie  other  Shag  rock  or  fome 
unimportant  iilet  in  its  vicinity.  The 
rock  mentioned  by  Champlain  is  that  on 
which  .Spit  Beacon  Light  now  ftands. 

"  The  fellival  of  St.  John  the  Bap- 
tift  occurs  on  the  24th  of  June;  and, 
arriving  on  that  day,  tiiey  gave  the 
name  of  St.  John  to  the  river,  which 
has  been  appropriately  given  alfo  to 
tiie  city  at  its  mouth,  now  the  metropo- 
lis of  the  province  of  New  Brunfwick, 


I  * 


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nr  (/''   L.Av/.//,^A/./v 


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the  t'.^..  li-ti. 


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■    •    ^        -y    -    -'■*■:;««#.  Ir^*--*-^*  --^^ 


J! 


Sieur  de  Clioniplain. 


29 


ferve  carefully  certain  points  and  rocks  on  the  two  fides.  It  is 
narrow  at  its  entrance,  and  then  becomes  broader.  A  certain 
point  being  palled,  it  becomes  narrower  again,  and  forms  a 
kind  of  fall  between  two  large  cliffs,  where  the  water  runs  fo 
rapidly  that  a  piece  of  wcod  thrown  in  is -drawn  under  and  not 
feen  again.  But  by  waiting  till  high  t'de'ydiji  can  pafs  this  fall 
very  cafily.'^*     Then  it  expands  again  to  the  extent  of  about 


i 


Chami'lain's  Dkscription  of  the  accompanying  Map. 

Riviere  St.  Jkhan. 
The  figures  indicate  fathoms  of  water. 

A.  Three  iflands  above  the  falls. ^  B.  Mountains  riling  up  from  the  main  land, 
two  leagues  fouth  of  the  river.  C.  The  fall  in  the  river.  D.  Shoals  where 
velTels,  when  the  tide  is  out,  are  liable  to  '"un  aground.  E.  Cabin  where  the  fav- 
ages  fortify  tiiemfelves.  /'".  A  pebbly  point  where  there  is  a  crofs.  G.  An  ifland 
at  the  entrance  of  the  river. '■^  H.  A  fmall  brook  coming  from  a  little  pond.^  /. 
Arm  of  the  fea  dry  at  low  tide.*  L.  Two  little  rocky  iflets.'  M.  A  fmall  pond. 
N.  Two  brooks.  O.  Very  dangerous  fhoals  along  the  coaft,  which  are  dry  at  low 
tide.  J\  Way  by  which  the  favages  carry  their  canoes  in  paffing  the  falls.  Q. 
Place  for  anchoring  where  the  river  runs  with  full  current. 

Notes,  i.  The  iflands  are  not  clofe  together  as  ?iere  reprefented.  One  is 
very  near  the  main  land  on  one  fhore,  and  two  on  the  other.  2.  Partridge  Ifland. 
3.  Mill  Pond.  4,  Marsh  Creek,  very  fliallow  but  not  entirely  dry  at  low  tide. 
5.  Thefe  iflets  are  not  now  reprefented  on  the  charts,  and  are  probably  rocks  near 
the  fliore  from  wiiich  the  foil  may  have  been  wafhed  away  fince  1604. 


"*  Champlain  was  under  a  milTappre- 
henfion  about  paffing  the  fall  at  the 
mouth  of  the  St.  John  at  high  tide.  It 
can  in  fact  only  be  pafTed  at  about  half 
tide.  The  waters  of  the  river  at  low 
tide  are  about  twelve  feet  higher  tlian 
the  waters  of  the  fea.  At  high  tide,  the 
waters  of  the  fea  are  about  five  feet 
higher  than  the  waters  of  the  river. 
Confequently,  at  low  tide  there  is  a  fall 
outward,  and  at  high  tide  there  is  a  fall 


inward,  at  neither  of  which  times  can 
the  fall  be  pafled.  The  only  time  for 
paffing  the  fall  is  when  the  waters  of 
the  fea  are  on  a  level  with  the  waters  of 
the  river.  This  occurs  twice  every  tide, 
at  the  level  point  at  the  flood  and  like- 
wife  at  the  ebb.  The  period  for  paffing 
lalts  about  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes, 
and  of  courfe  occurs  four  times  a  day. 
Veffels  alTemble  in  confideralile  num- 
bers above  and  below  to  embrace   the 

opportunity 


'Ml 


H 


;^r 


'  i 


t 


:.i 


I 


I'i 


I  I 


r  I 


30 


Voyages  of 


a  league  in  fome  places,  where  there  are  three  iflands.  We 
did  not  explore  it  farther  up."'-'  But  Ralleau,  fecrctary  of 
Sicur  de  Monts,  went  there  fome  time  after  to  fee  a  favage 
named  Secondon,  chief  of  this  river,  who  reported  that  it  was 
beautiful,  large,  and  extcnfive,  with  many  meadows  and  fine 
trees,  as  oaks,  beeches,  walnut-trees,  and  alfo  wild  grape- 
vines. The  inhabitants  of  the  country  go  by  this  river 
to  Tadouffac,  on  the  great  river  St.  Lawrence,  making  but 
a  fliort  portage  on  the  journey.  From  the  river  St.  John 
to  Tadouffac  is  fixty-five  leagues.*^"  At  its  mouth,  which 
is  in  latitude  45"  40',  there  is  an  iron  mine.*^^ 

From  the  river  St.  John  we  went  to  four  iflands,  on  one 
of  which  we  landed,  and  found  great  numbers  of  birds  called 
magpies,''^  of  which  we  captured  many  fmall  ones,  which  are 
as  good  as  pigeons.  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  came  near  get- 
ting lofl  here,  but  he  came  back  to  our  barque  at  laft,  when 
we  had  already  gone  to  fearch  for  him  about  the  ifland,  which 
is  three  leagues  diftant  from  the  main  land.  Farther  weft 
are  other  iflands ;  among  them  one  fix  leagues  in  length, 
called  by  the  favages  Manthane,^^  fouth  of  which  there  are 

among 

opportunity  of   paffmjj  at  the   favoring  But  by  the  winding  courfe  of  the  St. 

moment.     There  are  periods,  however,  Jolin  it  would  be  very  much  greater, 

when  the  river  i.s  fwollcn  by  rains  and  "^  Champlain's    latitude    is    inexacft. 

melting  fnow,  at  which  the  tidos  do  not  St.  John's  Harbor  is  45°  16'. 

rife   as   high  as  the  river;  and  confe-  ^^  J/«ri,'^f'i',  magpies.     The  four  iflands 

quently  there  is  a  conflant  fall  outward,  which  Champlain  named   the    Magpies 

'ind  veiTcls  cannot  pafs  until  the  high  are  now  called  the  Wolves,  and  are  near 

water  fulifides.  the    mouth    of    f^aflamaquoddy     Bay. 

'"  They    afcended    the   river   only  a  Chrrlevoix  has  Oifeaux,  the  Birds, 

(hort   diltance   into   the   large   bay  juft  ^^  Manan,       Known    as    the    Grand 

above   the   falls,   near   which    are    the  Manan  in  contradiltinftion  to  the  Petit 

three  iflands  mentioned  in  the  text.  Manan,  a  fmall  ifland  ftill  further  weft. 

*"*  The   diftance  from   the   mouth   of  It   is   about   fourteen   or   fifteen    miles 

the  river   St.   John  to  Tadouflac   in   a  long,  and  about  fix  in  its  greateft  width. 


direft  line  is  about  fixty-five  leagues. 


On  the  fouth  and  eaftern  fide  are  Long 

Ifland, 


'm 


I 


Siettr  de  Champlain. 


31 


among  the  iflands  feveral  good  harbors  for  veffcls.  From 
the  Magpie  Iflands  we  proceeded  to  a  river  on  the  main  land 
called  the  river  of  the  Etechemins,**^  a  tribe  of  favages  fo 
called  in  their  country.  We  palled  by  fo  many  iilands  that 
we  could  not  afcertain  their  number,  which  were  very  fine. 
Some  were  two  leagues  in  extent,  others  three,  others  more 
or  Icfs.  All  of  thefe  iflands  are  in  a  bay,**"'  having,  in  my 
eflimation,  a  circuit  of  more  than  fifteen  leagues.  There 
are  many  good  places  capable  of  containing  any  number  of 
velTels,  and  abounding  in  fifh  in  the  feafon,  fuch  as  codfilh, 
falmon,  bafs,  herring,  halibut,  and  other  kinds  in  great  num- 
bers. Sailing  weft-north-wefl  three  leagues  through  the 
iflands,  we  entered  a  river  almoft  half  a  league  in  breadth  at 
its  mouth,  failing  up  which  a  league  or  two  we  found  two 
iflands :  one  very  fmall  near  the  weflern  bank ;  and  the 
other  in  the  middle,  having  a  circumference  of  perhaps  eight 
or  nine  hundred  paces,  with  rocky  fides  three  or  four  fathoms 
high  all  around,  except  in  one  fmall  place,  where  there  is  a 
fandy  point  and  clayey  earth  adapted  for  making  brick  and 
other  ufeful  articles.  There  is  another  place  affording  a 
flielter  for  veffels  from  eighty  to  a  hundred  tons,  but  it  is 
dry  at  low  tide.  The  ifland  is  covered  with  firs,  birches, 
maples,  and  oaks.  It  is  by  nature  very  well  fituated,  except 
in  one  place,  where  for  about  forty  paces  it  is  lower  than 
elfewhere :  this,  however,  is  eaffly  fortified,  the  banks  of  the 

main 

Ifland,  Great  Duck,  Rofs,  Cheyne,  and  »*  The    St.    Croix   River,   fometimes 

Wiiite  Head  Iflands,  among  which  good  called  the  Scoudic. 

harborage  may  he  found.     Tlie  name,  ^5  PalTamaquoddy  Bay.     On   Gaftal- 

as   appears   in    the   text,   is   of   Indian  do's  map   of   1550   calkd   y\ngou!efme. 

origin.      It   is    fometimes    fpelled    Me-  On  Rouge's  "  Atlas  Ameriquain,"  1778, 

nane,  but  that  in  the  text  prevails.  it  is  written  Pallamacadie. 


'i.J 


32 


Voyages  of 


main  land  being  diftant  on  both  fides  fomc  nine  hundred  to  a 
thoLifand  paces.  VelTels  could  pafs  up  tlie  river  only  at  the 
mercy  of  the  cannon  on  this  ifland,  and  we  deemed  the  loca- 
tion the  mod  advantageous,  not  only  on  account  of  its  fitua- 
tion  and  good  Toil,  but  alfo  on  account  of  the  intercourfe 
which  we  propofed  with  the  favages  of  thefe  coafls  and  of 
the  interior,  as  we  fliould  be  in  the  midll;  of  them.  We 
hoped  to  pacify  them  in  the  courfe  of  time,  and  put  an  end 
to  the  wars  which  they  carry  on  with  one  anoth  "r,  so  as  to 
derive  fervice  from  them  in  future,  and  convert  them  to  the 
Chriftian  faith.  This  place  was  named  by  Sieur  de  Monts 
the  Ifland  of  St.  Croix.*^     Farther  on,  there  is  a  great  bay,  in 

which 


I  ! 
t 


Champlai.n's  Descrii'tion  of  the  accom"anying  Map. 

Isi.E  DE  Sainte  CRr)IX. 
The  Jigures  indicate  falhoms  of  water. 

A.  A  plan  of  our  habitation.  B.  Gardens.  C.  Little  iflet  ferving  as  a  plat- 
form for  cannon. 1  D.  Platform  where  cannon  were  placed.  E.  The  Cemetery. 
/'".  The  Chapel.  G.  Rocky  flioals  about  the  Ifland  Sainte  Croix.  H.  A  little 
iflet.^  /.  Place  where  Sieur  de  Monts  had  a  water-mi''  commenced.  L.  Place 
wiiere  we  made  our  coal.  M.  Gardens  on  the  weftern  fliore.  N.  Other  gardens 
on  the  caflern  fliore.  O.  Very  large  and  high  mountain  on  ihe  main  land.^  P. 
River  of  the  P'.techemins  flowing  about  the  Ifland  of  St.  Croix. 

Notes,  i.  This  refers  to  the  fouthern  end  of  the  ifland,  which  was  probably 
feparated  at  high  tide,  where  a  cannon  may  be  feen  in  pofition.  2.  Little  De 
Monts's  Ifland,  fometimes  called  Little  Dochet's  Ifland.  3.  This  "mountain"  is 
now  called  Chamcook  Hill.  Its  height  is  627  feet.  At  the  northern  end  of  the 
ifland  on  the  right  there  is  an  extenfive  fandy  fhoal,  dry  at  low  tide,  of  a  triangular 
fliape  as  formerly,  and  has  apparently  changed  very  little  fince  the  days  of  Ciiam- 
plain. 

^*  The  Holy  Crofs,  Sainfle  Croix,  ifland,  two  flreams  flow  into  the  main 
This  name  was  fuggefted  by  the  cir-  channel  of  the  river  at  the  fan  e  place, 
cumflance  that,  a  few  miles  above  the    one  from  the  eafl  and  the  other  from  the 

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Sieicr  dc  Cliaviplain. 


1 1 


which  are  l  .o  iflands,  one  high  and  the  other  flat;  alfo  tlirec 
rivers,  two  of  moderate  fize,  one  extending  towards  tlie  eall, 
the  other  towards  tlie  north,  and  the  third  of  large  fize, 
towards  the  welt.  The  latter  is  that  of  the  Etechemins,  of 
which  we  fpoke  before.  Two  leagues  up  this  there  is  a 
waterfall,  around  which  the  favages  carry  their  canoes  fome 
five  hundred  paces  by  land,  and  then  re-enter  the  river. 
Paffins:  afterwards  from  the  river  a  fliort  dillancc  overland, 
one  reaches  the  rivers  Norumbegue  and  St.  John.  But  the 
falls  are  impaffable  for  veffels,  as  there  are  only  rocks  and  but 
four  or  five  feet  of  water.^"     In  May  and  June,  fo  great  a 

number 


wefl:,  while  a  bay  makes  up  between 
tlicni,  prefenting  the  appearance  of  a 
crofs. 

"  Kt  d'autantquW  deux  heuiJs  au  dcf- 
fus  il  '■  a  des  ruilleaux  qui  viennent  com- 
me  ':n  croix  de  decliar<i;er  dans  ce  large 
bras  de  mer,  cette  ile  de  la  retraitt  des 
Francois  fut  appelce  Sainctk  Ckoix." 
—  His.  Noui'clle-France.  par  Lefoarbot, 
Paris,  i6i2,  Qvat.  Liv.  pp.  461.  462, 

It  is  now  called  De  Monts's  I  Hand. 
It  has  Iieen  called  Uochet's  Idand  and 
•veutral  illand.  but  there  is  great  appro- 
priatenefs  in  calling  it  after  it  -  firlt  oc- 
cupant and  proprietor,  and  in  honor  of 
him  it  has  been  fo  named  with  fuitable 
ceremonies. —  Viik.  Goiffrcy's  Centen- 
nial nifcfl'<rfe,  Bangor,  1S70,  p.  20. 
Tiie  United  States  maintain  a  light 
uiKm  the  iiland,  which  is  feventy-one 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  fea.  and  is 
vilible  twelve  nautical  niiK;s.  The  illairl 
itfelf  is  moderately  higli,  and  in  tlie 
wiilell  part  is  one  hundred  and  eiglity 
jjaces  or  about  five  hundred  and  furty 
feet.  The  area  is  probal)ly  not  more 
tiian  fix  or  feven  acres,  although  it  has 
been  ellimated  at  twice  tliat.  It  may 
have  been  diminilhcd  in  fome  llisjht  de- 


gree fince  the  time  of  Champlain  by  the 
action  of  tlie  waves,  but  probalily  very 
little.  On  the  foutliern  extremity  of 
the  ifland  where  De  Monts  jjlaced  his 
cannon,  about  twenty-five  years  ago  a 
workman  in  excavating  threw  out  tive 
fmall  cannon-balls,  one  of  which  was 
obtained  by  Peter  E.  Vofe,  Efq.,  of 
Dennyfville,  Me.,  who  then  refided  near 
the  illand,  and  was  converfant  with  all 
the  circumftances  of  the  difcovery.  They 
were  about  a  foot  and  a  half  below  the 
furface,  and  the  workman  was  exca- 
vating for  another  purpofe,  and  knew 
nothing  of  the  hiltory  of  the  illand.  At 
our  folicitation.  the  ball  belonging  to 
Mr.  Vofe  has  recently  been  prefented 
to  the  New  Knglarid  Hilloric  Genealogi- 
cal Society,  of  which  he  is  a  member. 
It  is  iron,  i)erfeclly  round,  two  and  a 
quarter  inches  in  diameter,  ami  weighs 
22'J  oz.  avoirdupois.  There  can  be  no 
re.ifonable  ddubt  that  thefe  balls  are 
relics  of  the  little  I'rench  colony  of  1604, 
and  |)r()bably  the  only  memorial  of  the 
kind  now  in  exigence. 

"'  The  defcription  in  the  text  of  the 

environs  of  the    Kland  of  St.  Croix  is 

entirely  accurate.    .Some  dillance  above, 

5  and 


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34 


Voyages  of 


number  of  hcrrins:  and  bafs  are  cauQ:ht  there  that  veffels  could 
be  loaded  with  them.  The  foil  is  of  the  finefl:  fort,  and  there 
are  fifteen  or  twenty  acres  of  cleared  land,  where  Sieur  do 
Monts  had  fome  wheat  fown,  which  flourifhcd  finely.  The 
favao;es  come  liere  fometimes  five  or  fix  weeks  durins:  the 
fiHiing  feafon.  All  the  reft  of  the  country  confiffs  of  very 
denfe  forefls.  If  the  land  were  cleared  up,  grain  would 
flourifli  excellendy.  This  place  is  in  latitude  45"  20',^'*  and 
17°  32'  of  the  deflection  of  the  magnetic  needle. 


I  'i' 


fi   ;l 


CHAPTER   IV. 

SlEUR  DE  MONTS,  FINDING  NO  OTHER  PLACE  BETTER  ADAPTED  FOR  A  PER- 
MANENT Settlement  than  the  Island  of  St.  Croix,  fortifies  it  anl; 
BUILDS  Dwellings.  —  Return  of  the  Vessels  to  France,  and  ok 
Ralleau,  Secretary  of  Sieur  de  Monts,  for  the  Sake  of  Arrang- 
ing some  Business  Affairs. 

OT  finding  any  more  fuitable  place  than  this 
ifland,  we  commenced  making  a  barricade  on 
a  little  iflet  a  fliort  diflance  from  the  main  ifland, 
whi  :h  ierved  as  a  ffation  for  placing  our  cannon. 
All  worked  fo  energetically  that  in  a  litde  while 
it  was  put  in  a  ftate  of  defence,  although  the   mofquitoes 

(which 


and  in  view  from  the  ifland,  is  tlie  fork, 
or  Divide.  ;.s  it  is  called.  Here  is  a 
meotint^  of  the  waters  of  Warwijj;  Creek 
from  the  eall,  O.ik  \\-^'j  from  the  north, 
and  the  river  of  the  Etechemins,  now 
called  the  St.  Croix,  from  the  v.'ert. 
Thefe  are  the  three  rivers  m'^i'tioned 
by  Chamjjlain,  Oak  Hay  Ixini"  connd- 
ered  as  one  of  tin  .n,  in  wnicii  ni.iy  be 
feen  the  two  illands  mentioned  in  the 
text,  one  hiiih  and  the  ot'i.r  low.     A 


little  above  Calais  is  the  waterfall, 
around  which  tiie  Indians  carried  their 
bark  canoes,  when  on  their  jovrnev  up 
the  river  throusrh  the  Scoudic  lakes, 
from  which  by  land  they  reached  the 
river  St.  John  on  the  eall,  or,  on  the 
well,  ])a(Tin<j;  throntijh  the  Mettawam- 
ke.ajj.  they  reached  the  Norumbegue,  or 
Penobfcot  River. 

"»  The  latitude  of  the   Ifland  of  St. 
Croix  is  45°  7'  43". 


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Sieiir  de  Chaviplain. 


35 


(which  are  little  flies)  annoyed  us  exceffively  in  our  work. 
For  there  were  feveral  of  our  men  whofe  faces  were  fo  fwol- 
len  by  their  bites  that  they  could  fcarcely  fee.  The  barri- 
cade being  finiflied,  Sieur  de  Monts  fent  his  barque  to  notify 
the  reft  of  our  party,  who  were  with  our  velTel  in  the  bay  of 
St.  Mary,  to  conie  to  St.  Croix.  'Hiis  was  promptly  done, 
and  while  awaiting  them  we  fpent  our  time  very  i)learantly. 

Some  days  after,  our  velTels  having  arri\'ed  and  anchored, 
all  difembarked.  Then,  without  lofmg  time,  Siour  de  Monts 
proceeded  to  employ  the  workmen  in  building  houfcs  for  our 
abode,  and  allowed  me  to  determine  the  arrangement  of  our 
fettlement.  After  Sieur  de  Monts  had  determined  the  place 
for  the  ftorehoufe,  which  is  nine  fathoms  long,  three  wide, 
and  twelve  feet  high,  he  adopted  the  plan  for  his  own  houfe, 
which  he  had  promptly  built  by  good  workmen,  and  then 
affigned  to  each  one  his  location.  Straightway,  the  men 
began  to  gather  together  by  fives  and  fixes,  each  according 
to  his  defire.     Then  all  fet  to  work  to  clear  up  the  ifland,  to 

go 


\T.' 


I 


■■  ■   I 


Champlain's  Description  of  the  accompanying  Map. 

Habitation  de  l'Islh  Stb.  Croix. 
The  figures  indicate  fathoms  of  water. 

A.  Dwelling  of  Sieur  de  Monts.  B.  Public  building  where  we  fpent  our  time 
when  it  rained.  C.  The  ftorehoufe.  D.  Dwelling  of  the  guard.  E.  The  hlack- 
fmith  fliop.  F.  Dwelling  of  the  carpenters.  G.  The  well.  //.  The  oven  where 
the  bread  wa.s  made.  /.  Kitchen.  L.  Gardens.  Af.  Other  gardens.  A'.  Place 
in  the  centre  where  a  tree  (lands.  O.  Palifade.  /'.  Dwellings  of  the  .Sieurs 
d'Orville,  Champlain,  and  Champdord.  Q.  Dwelling  of  Sieur  Poulay,  and  other 
artifans.  R.  Dwelling  where  the  Sieurs  de  Geneflou,  Sourin.  and  other  artifans 
lived.  T.  Dwelling  of  die  Sieurs  de  Peaumont,  la  Motte  Pourioli.  and  I'ouge- 
ray.  V.  Dwelling  of  our  curate.  X.  Other  gardens.  V.  The  river  furround- 
ing  tlie  illund. 


fl 


'hf 


I 


36 


Voyages  of 


go  to  the  woods,  to  make  the  frame  work,  to  carry  earth  and 
other  things  neceffary  for  the  buiklings. 

While  we  were  buikling  our  houfes,  Sicur  de  IMonts  de- 
fpatclied  Captain  Fouques  in  the  veffel  of  Roffignol,**"  to  find 
Pont  Grave  at  Canfeau,  in  order  to  obtain  for  our  fettlemcnt 
what  fuppHes  remained. 

Some  time  after  he  had  fet  out,  there  arrived  a  fmall  barque 
of  eight  tons,  in  which  was  Du  Glas  of  Honfleur,  pilot  of 
Pont  Grave's  velTel,  bringing  the  Baique  fliip-m afters,  who  had 
been  captured  by  the  above  Pont  Grave""  while  engaged  in 
the  fur-trade,  as  we  have  Hated.  Sieur  de  Monts  received  them 
civilly,  and  fent  them  back  by  the  above  Du  Glas  to  Pont  Grave, 
with  orders  for  him  to  take  the  veiTels  he  had  captured  to 
Rochelle,  in  order  that  juftice  might  be  done.  Meanwhile, 
work  on  the  houfes  went  on  vigoroufly  and  without  ceffation  ; 
the  carpenters  engaged  on  the  ftorchoufe  and  dwelling  of 
Sieur  de  Monts,  and  the  others  each  on  his  own  houfe,  as 
I  was  on  mine,  which  I  built  with  the  affiftance  of  fome  fer- 
vants  belonging  to  Sieur  d'Orville  and  myfelf.  It  was  forth- 
with completed,  and  Sieur  de  Monts  lodged  in  it  until  his 
own  was  finifhed.  An  oven  was  alfo  made,  and  a  hand- 
mill  for  grinding  our  wheat,  the  working  of  which  involved 
much  trouble  and  labor  to  the  moft  of  us,  fince  it  was  a  toil- 
fome  operation.  Some  gardens  were  afterwards  laid  out,  on 
the  main  land  as  well  as  on  the  ifland.  Here  many  kinds  of 
feeds  were  planted,  which  flourillied  very  well  on  the  main 

land, 


^9  This  was  the  veiTel  taken  from 
Captain  Roffignol  and  confifcatecl.  — 
I'idc  antea,  pj).  10,  12;  alfo  note  26 


90 


fays  Grav^  was  his  furname. —  Vide 
Hijloire  de  la  A' on.  Fran.,  Paris,  161 2, 
Ovat.  Liv.  p.  501.    To  prevent  any  con- 


Champlain  and  others  often  write    iulion,  wc  write  it   Pont  Gravd  in  all 


5 


only  Pont  for  Pont  Grave.     Lefcarbot    cafes 


I 


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S  i' 


Sicjtr  dc  Chaviplain. 


n 


land,  but  not  on  the  ifland,  fmLc  tlicre  was  only  fand  licro, 
and  the  whole  were  burned  up  when  the  fun  llione,  although 
fpecial  pains  were  taken  to  water  them. 

Some  days  after,  Sicur  de  Monts  determined  to  afcertain 
where  the  mine  of  pure  copper  was  which  we  had  fearched 
for  fo  much.  With  K\\\>,  object  in  \iew,  he  defpatchod  me 
together  with  a  lavage  named  MvlVamoiiet,  who  allcrted  that 
he  knew  the  place  well.  I  fet  out  in  a  fmall  barque  of  fi\c 
or  fix  tons,  with  nine  failovs.  StMwe  vMght  leagues  from  the 
ifland,  towards  the  river  St.  John,  we  found  a  mine  of  copper 
which  was  not  pure,  yet  go\Kl  according  to  the  report  of  the 
miner,  who  faitl  that  \\  would  yield  eighteen  per  cent.  Farther 
on  we  found  otl\ers  inferior  to  this.  When  we  reached  the 
place  where  we  fuppofed  that  was  which  we  were  hunting 
for,  the  favage  could  not  find  it,  fo  that  it  was  neceffary  to 
come  back,  leaving  the  fearch  for  another  time. 

Upon    my   return   from    this   trip,    Sieur    de     Monts   re- 

folved    to   fend   his  velTels  back  to  France,  and  alfo  Sicur 

de  Poutrincourt,  who  had  come  only  for  his  pleafure,  and  to 

explore  countries  and  places  fuitable  for  a  colony,  which  he 

defired  to  found;  for  which  reafon  he  afked  Sieur  de  Monts 

for  Port   Royal,  which  he  gave  him  in  accordance  with  the 

power  and  directions  he  had  received  from  the  king."'     He 

fent  back  alfo  Ralleau,  his  fecretary,  to  arrange  fome  matters 

concerning  the  voyage.     They  fet  out  from   the    I  Hand   of 

St.  Croix  the  la't  day  of  Auguft,   1604. 

CHAPTER   V. 

®^  De  Monts's  charter  provided  for  difcrepancy  in  the  orthoi^raphy  of  this 
the  dirtribution  of  lands  to  colonics,  name.  Lefcarl)ot,  De  Laet,  and  Char- 
This  gift  to  De  Poutrincourt  was  con-  levoix  write  I'outrincourt.  In  his  Latin 
firmed  afterwards  l)y  the  king.  We  ei)itaph,  vide  MurdoclCs  Nova  Scotia, 
may  here  remark  that  there  is  the  ufual    Vol.   I.  p.  59,  it  is  I'otrincurtius,  while 

Chaniplain 


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38 


Voyages  of 


I 


r- 
\ 


V\ 


CHAPTER  V. 
Of  the  Coast,  Iniiaiutants,  and  Rivf.r  of  NouuMnr.our:,  and  of  alt. 

THAT   OCCUKRF.U    DURING   THE    EXPLORATION    OF   THE    LATTER. 

I^'Tin^  the  departure  of  the  veffels,  Sieur  dc 
Monts,  without  lofing  time,  decided  to  fend 
perfons  to  make  difcoveries  along  the  coafl  of 
Norumbegue ;  and  he  intrufled  me  with  this 
work,  which  I  found  very  agreeable. 
In  order  to  execute  this  commiffion,  I  fet  out  from  St. 
Croix  on  the  2d  of  September  with  a  patache  of  feventeen  or 
eighteen  tons,  twelve  failors,  and  two  favages,  to  ferve  us  as 
guides  to  the  places  with  which  they  were  acquainted.  The 
fame  day  we  found  the  velTels  where  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt 
was,  which  were  anchored  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  St. 
Croix  in  confequcnce  of  bad  weather,  which  place  we  could 
not  leave  before  the  5th  of  the  month.  Having  gone  two  or 
three  leagues  feaward,  fo  denfe  a  fog  arofe  that  we  at  once 
lofl  fight  of  their  veffels.  Continuing  our  courfe  along  the 
coafl,  we  made  the  fame  day  fome  twenty-five  leagues,  and 
palfed  by  a  large  number  of  iflands,  banks,  reefs,  and  rocks, 
which  in  places  extend  more  than  four  leagues  out  to  fea. 
We  called  the  iflands  the  Ranges,  mofl  of  which  are  covered 

with 

Chaniplain  has  Poitrincourt.     In   Pou-  attejlor  perpetmis,  etc.     This  muft  be 

trincourt's  letter  to  the  Roman  Pontiff,  conclufive  for  Poutrincourt  as  the  proper 

Paul  v.,  written  in  Latin,  he  fays,  7ti,v  orthoijraphy. —  Vide    His.    A'ov.    Fra., 

yoJiannes  de  Biencour,  vuli^b  De  Pov-  par  Leicarbot,  Paris,  1612,  p.  612. 
triiicovr  a    vitce  relii/ionis  ainator  et 


X 


V 

4  t 


Sicur  dc  Chaniplain, 


39 


witli  pines,  firs,  and  oilier  trees  of  an  inferior  fort.  Among 
thefe  illands  are  many  fine  harbors,  Ijut  undcfirablc  for  a 
permanent  fettlement.  The  fame  day  we  paffed  alfo  near 
to  an  idand  a1)out  four  or  five  leagues  long,  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  which  we  jufl  efcaped  being  loft  on  a  little 
rock  on  a  level  with  the  water,  which  made  an  opening  in 
our  barque  near  the  keel.  From  this  il'and  to  the  main  land 
on  the  north,  the  diflance  is  lefs  than  a  hundred  paces.  It 
is  very  high,  and  notched  in  places,  fo  that  there  is  the  ap- 
pearance to  one  at  fea,  as  of  feven  or  eight  mountains  ex- 
tendinu:  alonq;  near  each  other.  The  fummit  of  the  mofl  of 
them  is  deflitute  of  trees,  as  there  are  only  rocks  on  them. 
The  woods  confill  of  pines,  firs,  and  birches  only.  I  named 
it  Ifle  des  IMonts  Deferts.''-    The  latitude  is  \^°  30'. 

The  next  day,  the  6th  of  the  month,  we  failed  two  leagues, 
and  perceived  a  finoke  in  a  cove  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tains above  mentioned.  We  faw  two  canoes  rowed  by  fav- 
ages,  which  came  within  mufket  range  to  obferve  us.  I  Pent 
our  two  favagcs  in  a  boat  to  affure  them  of  our  friendlhip. 
Their  fear  of  us  made  them  turn  back.  On  the  mornin*';  of 
the  next  day,  they  came  alongfide  of  our  barque  and  talked 
with  our  favages.  I  ordered  fome  bifcuit,  tobacco,  and  other 
trifles  to  be  given  them.     Thefe  favages  had  come  beavcr- 

huntincif 

"'^  The     natives    called     this     iflaiid  Mount    Manfell.      ISut  the  name  j^ivcn 

Pcmetiq.     IJle  que  les  Sauuages  appel-  to  it  l)y  Chanijjlain  has  prevailed,  and 

lent    Pemetiq.  —  Vide    Relation    tie    la  (till  adheres  to  it. 
A'omielle-France,   par   P.   Biard,   1616,         The    (!efcri|jtion   here   given   of  the 

Relations  des  J(5fiiites,  Quebec  ed.  i<S5S,  barrennefs  of  tlie  illand  clearly  fuljiijcds 

p.  44.     When  the  attempt  was  made  in  the  orii,'in  of  tlie  name.     Defcrt  ihould 

1613    to   plant  a  colony    there    by   the  tlurefore  be   pronounced  with   the  ac- 

Marchionefs  de  Guercheville.  the  i(ttlt;-  clmU  on  tlie  tirll  fyilaljle.     The  latitude 

ment    was    named    .St.   .Sauvt  ur.     'Iliis  of  the  molt  northern  limit  of  the  illand 

ifland  was  alfo  by   the    Kni,diih    called  is  44°  24'. 


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WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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40 


Voyages  of 


hunting  and  to  catch  fifli,  fomc  of  which  they  gave  us. 
Having  made  an  alliance  with  them,  they  guided  us  to  their 
river  of  Pentegoiict,"''  fo  called  by  them,  where  they  told  us 
was  their  captain,  named  Beffabez,  chief  of  this  river.  I 
think  this  river  is  that  which  feveral  pilots  and  hiftorians  call 
Norumbegue,"*  and  which  mofl  have  dcfcribed  as  large  and 
extcnfive,  with  very  many  iflands,  its  mouth  being  in  latitude 
43° >  43°  30''  according  to  others  in  44°,  more  or  Icfs.  With 
regard  to  the  defle(5tion,  I  have  neither  read,  nor  heard  any 
one  fay  any  thing.     It  is  related  alfo  that  there  is  a  large, 

thickly 


^'  Pennbfcot,  The  name  of  this  river 
has  been  v.iriouUy  written  Pentaj^oet, 
l'cntnj,wet,  rempte<;nct,  I'entaiiovctt, 
l*enol)(kea^,  l'enaul)fl<et.  and  in  various 
otiier  ways.  The  Enf^lith  hej^an  early 
to  write  it  Pcnolifcot.  It  is  a  word  of 
Indian  orijjin,  and  ditVerent  meanings 
have  been  afllj^ned  to  it  by  thofe  who 
have  undertaken  to  interpret  the  lan- 
gua,t,^e  from  wliich  it  is  derived. 

"■*  Tlie  Abl)L«  Laverditire  is  of  the 
opinion  that  the  river  Noruml)egue  was 
identieal  with  tlie  Hay  of  Fundy.  His 
only  auth'.rity  is  Jean  Alfonfe.  the  chief 
pilot  of  K()l)er\-al  in  1541-42.  Alfonfe 
fays  :  '■  IJeyond  the  cape  of  Noroveregue 
defcends  tlie  river  of  the  faid  Norove- 
regue, which  is  about  twenty-five  leagues 
from  the  c  ipe.  The  faid  river  is  more 
til. in  ror(y  leagues  broad  at  its  mouth, 
and  extends  tiiis  width  inwnrd  well 
thirty  or  forty  leagues,  and  is  all  full  of 
illands  which  enter  ten  or  twelve  leagues 
into  tlie  fea.  and  it  is  very  dangerous 
with  rocks  and  reefs."  If  the  cape  of 
Norumbegue  is  the  prefent  Cape  Sable, 
as  it  is  fuppole('  to  be.  by  coafting  along 
the  Ihores  of  Nova  Scotia  from  that 
cape  in  a  north-welferly  direflion  a  iittie 
more  than  twenty  leagues,  we  fliall 
reach  St.  Mary's  Hay,  which  may  be 
regarded  as  the  beginning  of  the  Bay 


of  Fundy,  and  from  that  point  in  a 
Araight  line  to  the  mouth  of  the  Penob- 
fcot  the  diilance  is  more  than  forty 
le;igues,  which  was  the  breadth  of  the 
Norumbegue  at  its  mouth,  according  to 
the  iLitoment  of  Alfonfe.  The  Abbd 
Laverdicre  is  not  quite  correct  in  faying 
that  the  river  Norumbegue  is  the  fame 
as  tlie  Hay  of  Fundy.  It  includes,  ac- 
cording to  Alfonfe,  who  is  not  altogether 
confillent  with  himfolf,  not  only  the  Hay 
of  Fundy,  but  likewife  the  Penobfcot 
River  and  the  bay  of  the  fame  name, 
with  its  numerous  iflands.  Alfonfe  left 
a  drawing  or  map  of  this  region  in  his 
Cofmography,  which  Laverdicre  had  not 
probably  feen,  on  which  the  Hay  of 
Fundy  and  the  Penobfcot  are  corredlly 
laid  down,  and  the  latter  is  defignated 
the  "Riviere  de  Norvcbergue."  It  is 
therefore  obvious,  if  this  map  can  be 
relied  upon,  that  the  river  of  Norum- 
begue was  identical,  not  with  the  Hay 
of  Fundy,  but  with  the  Penobfcot.  in 
tlie  opinion  of  Alfonfe,  in  common  with 
the  "  plufieurs  pilottes  et  hiftoriens " 
referred  to  by  Champlain.  —  Vide  copy 
of  the  C/iart  from  the  MS.  Co/mo^ra- 
phv  of  J<.(iH  Alfoufv  in  liibliothccpie 
Nationale.  Paris,  in  Mr.  Murphys  \'oy- 
age  of  Verrazzano,  New  York,  1875. 


i 


Sieur  do  Champ  la  in.  41 

thickly  fettled  town  of  favages,  who  are  adroit  and  (kilful, 
and  who  have  cotton  yarn.  I  am  confident  that  niofl:  of 
thofe  who  mention  it  have  not  feen  it,  and  fpeak  of  it 
becaufe  they  have  heard  perfons  fay  fo,  who  knew  no  more 
about  it  than  they  themfelves.  I  am  ready  to  believe  that 
fome  may  have  feen  the  mouth  of  it,  becaufe  there  are  in 
reality  many  iflands,  and  it  is,  as  they  fay,  in  latitude  44'  at 
its  entrance.  But  that  any  one  has  ever  entered  it  there  is 
no  evidence,  for  then  they  would  have  defcribed  it  in  another 
manner,  in  order  to  relieve  the  minds  of  many  of  this  doubt. 
I  will  accordingly  relate  truly  what  I  explored  and  faw, 
from  the  beginning  as  far  as  I  went. 

In  the  firfl  place,  there  are  at  its  entrance  feveral  iflands 
diftant  ten  or  twelve  leagues  from  the  nain  land,  which  are 
in  latitude  44°,  and  18°  40'  of  the  defledion  of  the  magnetic 
needle.  The  Ifle  des  Monts  Deferts  forms  one  of  the 
extremities  of  the  mouth,  on  the  call;  the  other  is  low 
land,  called  by  the  favages  Bedabedec,''-^'  to  the  weft  of  the 
former,  the  two  being  diftant  from  each  other  nine  or  ten 
leagues.  Almoft  midway  between  thefe,  out  in  the  ocean, 
there  is  another  ifland  very  high  and  confpicuous,  which  on 
this  account  I  have  named  Ifle  Haute.^  All  around  there 
is  a  vaft  number  of  varying  extent  and  breadth,  but  the 

lar^^eft 


^^  An  indefinite  region  about  Rock- 
land and  Camden,  on  the  wellern  ijanl< 
of  the  Penobfcot  near  its  mouth,  ap- 
pears to  have  been  the  domain  of  the 
Indian  chief,  IJeffabez,  and  was  denomi- 
nated Hedabedec.  The  Camden  Hills 
were  called  the  mountains  of  Hedabe- 
dec,  and  Owl's  Head  was  called  Ikda- 
bedec  I'oint. 


««  Ifle  Haute,  hiirh  ijlaiid,  which  name 
it  flill  retains.  Champiain  wrote  it  on 
his  map,  163.'',  "Hie  Haulte."  It  has 
been  anglicized  by  fome  into  Ifle  Holt. 
It  is  nearly  fix  miles  long,  and  has  an 
average  width  of  over  two  miles,  and  i.s 
the  highest  land  in  its  vicinity,  reaching 
at  its  higholl  point  four  liuiidred  feet 
above  the  level  of  tl,-  lea. 


^f. 


1 

1 

i    ll 

t ' 


4 


9  ■ 


I 


!? 


42 


Voyages  of 


largcfl  is  that  of  the  Monts  Defcrts.  Fifliing  as  alfo  hunting 
arc  very  good  here;  the  fi(h  are  of  various  kinds.  Some 
two  or  three  leagues  from  the  ])oint  of  Bedabedec,  as  you 
coaft  northward  along  the  main  land  which  extends  up  this 
river,  there  are  very  high  elevations  of  land,  which  in  fair 
weather  are  feen  twelve  or  fifteen  leagues  out  at  fea.'''  Paff- 
in<j:  to  the  fouth  of  the  lile  Haute,  and  coaflinti'  alonu:  the  fame 
for  a  quarter  of  a  league,  where  there  are  fome  reefs  out  of 
water,  and  heading  to  the  well  until  you  open  all  the  moun- 
tains northward  of  this  illand,  you  can  be  fure  that,  by  keep- 
ing in  fight  the  eight  or  nine  peaks  of  the  Monts  Deferts  and 
Bedabedec,  you  will  crols  the  river  Norumbegue ;  and  in 
order  to  enter  it  you  muft  keep  to  the  north,  that  is,  towards 
the  highefl;  mountains  of  Bedabedec,  where  you  will  fee  no 
ifiands  before  you,  and  can  enter,  fure  of  having  water  enough, 
although  you  fee  a  great  many  breakers,  ifiands,  and  rocks 
to  the  caft  and  wefl;  of  you.  For  greater  fecurity,  one  fliould 
keep  the  founding  lead  in  hand.  And  my  obfervations  lead 
me  to  conclude  that  one  cannot  enter  this  iiver  in  anv  other 
place  except  in  fmall  vefTels  or  fliallops.  For,  as  I  flated 
above,  there  are  numerous  ifiands,  rocks,  flioals,  banks,  and 
breakers  on  all  lides,  fo  that  it  is  marvellous  to  behold. 

Now  to  refume  our  courfe :  as  one  enters  the  river,  there 
are  beautiful  ifiands,  which  are  very  pleafant  and  contain 

fine 


"  Camden  Hills  or  Mountains.  They 
are  five  or  lix  in  numlier,  from  900  to 
1,500  feet  hi!j;li,  and  may  be  feen,  it  is 
faid,  twenty  leagues  at  fea.  The  more 
prominent  are  Mt.  Batty,  Mt.  Pleafant, 
and  Mt.  Hofmer,  or  Ratrged  Moun  ain. 
They  are  fometimes  called  tlie  Megunti- 
co(.)k  Range.    Colonel  Lienjamin  Church 


denominates  them  "  Mathebe'luck's 
Hills."  —  Vide  CliunlCs  Hijioiy  oj  A'l'f/j^ 
/'/ii7//>'s  IVar,  Newport,  1772.  p.  143. 
Captain  John  Smith  calls  them  the 
mountains  of  Penolil'cot,  "againrt  whofe 
feet  doth  beat  the  fea."  whicii,  he  adds, 
"you  may  well  fee  lixteeii  or  eighteen 
leagues  from  their  fituation." 


-•i. 


Sicttr  de  Chaviplahi. 


43 


fine  meadows.  We  proceeded  to  a  place  to  wliicli  the*  lav- 
ages guided  us,  wliere  the  river  is  not  more  than  an  eighth 
of  a  league  broad,  and  at  a  didance  of  fome  two  hundred 
paces  from  the  weftern  (hore  there  is  a  rock  on  a  level  with 
the  water,  of  a  dangerous  character;"*  Vxow\  here  to  the  I  lie 
Haute,  it  is  fifteen  leagues.  From  this  narrow  place,  where 
there  is  the  leafl:  breadth  that  we  had  found,  after  failing 
fome  fevcn  or  eight  leagues,  we  came  to  a  little  river  near 
which  it  was  neceffary  to  anchor,  as  we  faw  before  us  a  great 
many  rocks  which  are  uncovered  at  low  tide,  and  fince  alio, 
if  we  had  defired  to  fail  farther,  we  could  have  gone  fcarcely 
half  a  league,  in  confequence  of  a  fall  of  water  there  coming 
down  a  Hope  of  feven  or  eight  feet,  which  I  faw  as  I  went 
there  in  a  canoe  with  our  favages ;  and  we  found  only  water 
enough  for  a  canoe.  But  excepting  the  fall,  which  is  Ibme 
two  hundred  paces  broad,  the  river  is  beautiful,  and  unob- 
flrudled  up  to  the  place  where  we  had  anchored.  I  landed 
to  view  the  country,  and,  going  on  a  hunting  excurfion,  found 
it  very  pleafant  fo  far  as  I  went.  The  oaks  here  appear  as 
if  they  were  planted  for  ornament.  I  faw  only  a  few  firs  but 
numerous  pines  on  one  fide  of  the  river;  on  the  other  only  oaks, 
and  fome  copfe  wood  which  extends  far  into  the  interior.'-^ 

And 


^8  This  narrow  place  in  the  river  is 
jufl  above  Calline,  where  Cape  Jellifon 
llrctches  out  towards  the  eall.  at  tlie 
head  of  the  bay,  and  at  the  nioutli  of 
the  river.  At  the  extremity  of  tlie  ca|)e 
is  Fort  Point,  fo  called  from  P'ort  Pow- 
nall,ereded  there  in  1759,  ^  fteep  rocky 
elevation  of  al-out  eighty  feet  in  hcii;lit. 
Before  the  erertion  of  the  fort  by  (iov- 
ernor  Pownail,  it  was  called  Wafaum- 
keag  Point. — Vide  Pownairs  Journal, 


Col.  Me.  His.  Soc,  Vol.  V.  p.  3X5. 
The  "rock"  alluded  to  by  Chanii)l.iin 
is  Fort  Point  I.edtre.  bare  at  half  tide, 
fouth-eafl  by  ealt  from  the  Point,  and 
dillant  over  half  a  mile.  Cliami)lain's 
dillanccs  here  are  fomewhat  overelli- 
mated. 

""  The  terminus  of  this  cx])loration 
of  the   i'enobfcot  was  near  the  prefent 
lUe  of  the  city  of   IJanj^or.     The  I'mall 
river  near  the  mouth  of  which  they  an- 
chored 


i 


\-A. 


s  i 


m 


M 


i  '1. 


y'/ 


44 


Voyages  of 


\.    \ 


{ 


|-  ; 


li  1 


And  I  will  flatc  that  from  the  entrance  to  where  we  went, 
about  twenty-five  leagues,  we  faw  no  town,  nor  village,  nor 
the  appearance  of  there  having  been  one,  but  one  or  two 
cabins  of  the  favages  without  inhabitants.  Thefe  were  made 
in  the  fame  way  as  thofe  of  the  Souriquois,  being  covered 
with  the  bark  of  trees.  So  far  as  we  could  judge,  the  favages 
on  this  river  are  few  in  number,  and  are  called  Eteche- 
mins.  Moreover,  they  only  come  to  the  iflands,  and  that 
only  during  fome  months  in  fummer  for  fifli  and  game,  of 
which  there  is  a  great  quantity.  They  are  a  people  who 
have  no  fixed  abode,  fo  far  as  I  could  obferve  and  learn  from 
them.  For  they  fpend  the  winter  now  in  one  place  and  now 
in  another,  according  as  they  find  the  befl:  hunting,  by  which 
they  live  when  urged  by  their  daily  needs,  without  laying  up 
any  thing  for  times  of  fcarcity,  which  are  fometimes  fevere. 

Now  this  river  mufl;  of  neceffity  be  the  Norumbegue ;  for, 
having  coafled  along  pafl  it  as  far  as  the  41°  of  latitude,  we 
have  found  no  other  on  the  parallel  above  mentioned,  except 
that  of  the  Quinibequy,  which  is  almofl  in  the  fame  latitude, 
but  not  of  great  extent.  Moreover,  there  cannot  be  in  any 
other  place  a  river  extending  far  into  the  interior  of  the 
country,  fince  the  great  river  St.  Lawrence  waflies  the  coaft 
of  La  Cadie  and  Norumbegue,  and  the  diiiance  from  one  to 
the  other  by  land  is  not  more  than  forty-five  leagues,  or  fixty 
at  the  widefl  point,  as  can  be  feen  on  my  geographical  map. 

Now  I  will  drop  this  difcuffion  to  return  to  the  favages  who 

had 

chored  was  the  Kendufkeag.     The  falls  cepting  this  fall "  is  complicated,  and 

which   Chaniplain  vifited  with   the  In-  not  quite  logical,  but  the  author  evi- 

dians  in  a  canoe  are  thofe  a  fliort  dif-  dently  means  to  defcribe  the  river  from 

tance   above   the  city.     The   fentence,  its  mouth  to  the  place  of  their  anchor- 

a  few  lines  back,  beginning  "  But  ex-  age  at  Bangor. 


JL: 


WJ-..,.i!llii'.i|.'|B. 


Siettr  de  Charnplain. 


45 

had  concluded  me  to  the  falls  of  the  river  Norumbeguc, 
who  went  to  notify  BelTabez,  their  chief,  and  other  favages, 
who  in  turn  proceeded  to  another  little  river  to  inform  their 
own,  named  Cabahis,  and  give  him  notice  of  our  arrival. 

The  1 6th  of  the  month  there  came  to  us  fome  thirty  fav- 
ages  on  alTurances  given  them  by  thofe  who  had  ferved  us 
as  guides.  There  came  alfo  to  us  the  fame  day  the  above- 
named  Beffabez  with  fix  canoes.  As  foon  as  the  favages 
who  were  on  land  faw  him  coming,  they  all  began  to  fing, 
dance,  and  jump,  unHl  he  had  landed.  Afterwards,  they  all 
feated  themlelves  in  a  circle  on  the  ground,  as  is  their  cuf- 
tom,  when  they  wifli  to  celebrate  a  feftivity,  or  an  harangue 
is  to  be  made.  Cabahis,  the  other  chief,  arrived  alfo  a  little 
later  with  twenty  or  thirty  of  his  companions,  who  withdrew 
one  fide  and  enjoyed  greatly  feeing  us,  as  it  was  the  firft  time 
they  had  feen  Chriflians.  A  little  while  after,  I  went  on 
fliore  with  two  of  my  companions  and  two  of  our  favages  who 
ferved  as  interpreters.  I  directed  the  men  in  our  barque  to 
approach  near  the  favages,  and  hold  their  arms  in  readinefs 
to  do  their  duty  in  cafe  they  noticed  any  movement  of  '.hefe 
people  againft  us.  Beffabez,  feeing  us  on  land,  bade  us  fit 
down,  and  began  to  fmoke  with  his  companions,  as  they 
ufually  do  before  an  addrefs.  They  prefented  us  with  veni- 
fon  and  game. 

I  directed  our  interpreter  to  fay  to  our  favages  that  they 
fliould  caufe  Beffabez,  Cabahis,  and  their  companions  to 
underfland  that  Sieur  de  Monts  had  fent  me  to  them  to  fee 
them,  and  alfo  their  country,  and  that  he  defired  to  preferve 
friendfhip  with  them  and  to  reconcile  them  with  their  ene- 
mies, the  Souriquois  and  Canadians,  and  moreover  that  he 

defired 


'  I 


'A 


i 

-f 


i 


■m 


^i 


I 


I 

I 
\ 

t 

1 

46  Voyages  of 

dcfircd  to  inhalMt  their  country  and  (how  them  how  to  culti- 
vate it,  in  order  that  they  might  not  continue  to  lead  fo 
miferable  a  life  as  they  were  doing,  and  fome  other  words  on 
the  fame  fubjec^l.  This  our  lavages  interpreted  to  them,  at 
which  they  fignified  their  great  fatisfa(5lion,  faying  that  no 
ijreater  i^ood  could  come  to  them  than  to  have  our  friend- 
Ihip,  and  that  they  defired  to  live  in  peace  with  their  enemies, 
and  that  we  Ihould  dwell  in  their  land,  in  order  that  they 
might  in  future  more  than  ever  before  engage  in  hunting 
beavers,  and  give  us  a  part  of  them  in  return  for  our  pro- 
viding them  with  things  which  they  wanted.  After  he  had 
finidied  his  dilcourfe,  1  prefented  them  with  hatchets,  pater- 
nollers,  caps,  knives,  and  other  little  knick-knacks,  when  we 
feparated  from  each  other.  All  the  reft  of  this  day  and  the 
following  night,  until  break  of  day,  they  did  nothing  but 
dance,  fing,  and  make  merry,  after  which  we  traded  for  a 
certain  number  of  beavers.  Then  each  party  returned, 
Beffabez  with  his  companions  on  the  one  fide,  and  we  on 
the  other,  highly  plcafed  at  having  made  the  acquaintance 
of  this  people. 

The  1 7th  of  the  month  I  took  the  altitude,^"^  and  found 
the  latitude  45°  25'.  This  done,  we  fet  out  for  another 
river  called  Quinibequy,  diftant  from  this  place  thirty-five 

leagues, 


'<"'  The  interview  with  the  Indians  on 
the  i6th,  and  llie  takinj>;  of  the  ahitude 
on  the  17th,  mull  have  occurred  before 
tlie  party  left  their  anchoracje  at  I5anji;or 
with  the  purpofe,  hut  wliich  they  did 
not  accomj>h(1i  that  year,  of  viliting  the 
Kennebec.  This  may  tie  inferred  from 
Champlain's  Itatement  that  the  Kenne- 
bec was  tliirty-five  leagues  dillant  from 


the  place  where  they  then  were,  and 
nearly  twenty  leagues  dillant  from  15e- 
dabedec.  Confequently,  they  were  fif- 
teen leagues  above  Bedabedec,  which 
was  fituated  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  The  latitude,  wliich  they  ob- 
tained from  their  ohfervations,  was  far 
from  correft  :  it  Ihould  be  44°  46'. 


k.  «., 


Sicur  de  Chainplain. 


47 


leagues,  and  nearly  twenty  from  nedabcclec.  This  nation  of 
favages  of  Quinibequy  are  called  Etechemins,  as  well  as 
thof'"  of   Norumbeciue. 

The  1 8th  of  the  month  we  paffed  near  a  fmall  river  where 
Cabahis  was,  who  came  with  us  in  our  barque  Ibme  twelve 
leagues ;  and  having  a(l:ed  him  whence  came  the  river  No- 
rumbegue,  he  told  me  that  it  palTes  the  fall  which  I  mentioned 
above,  and  that  one  journeying  fomc  diflance  on  it  enters 
a  lake  by  way  of  which  they  come  to  the  river  of  St.  Croix, 
by  going  fomc  diflance  overland,  and  then  entering  the  river 
of  the  Etechemins.  Moreover,  another  river  enters  the  lake, 
along  which  they  proceed  fome  days,  and  afterwards  enter 
another  lake  and  pafs  through  the  midfl  of  it.  Reaching  the 
end  of  it,  they  make  again  a  land  journey  of  fome  diftance, 
and  then  enter  another  little  river,  which  has  its  mouth  a 
league  from  Quebec,  which  is  o''  the  great  river  St.  Law- 
rence.'°^     All  thcfe  people  of  Norumbegue  are  very  fwarthy, 

dreffed 


^"*  The  Indian  chief  Cabahis  here 
points  out  two  trails,  the  one  leading: 
to  the  French  hahitition  jull  ellahlilhed 
on  the  I  Hand  of  St.  Croix,  the  other  to 
Quebec;  by  the  former,  palfing  up  the 
Penoljfcot  from  tlie  prcfent  lite  of  Han- 
f(or,  entering  tlie  Matawamkeag,  keep- 
ing to  the  eafl  in  their  ligiit  bark  canoes 
to  Lake  IJofcanhegan,  and  from  there 
paffmg  by  land  to  the  flrcam  then  known 
as  the  river  of  the  Ktccliemins,  now 
called  t!ie  Scoudic  or  St.  Croix.  The 
expreffion  ''by  which  they  come  to  the 
river  of  St.  Croix  "  is  explanatory  :  it 
has  no  reference  to  tlic  name  of  the 
river,  but  means  fimply  tliat  the  trail 
leads  to  the  river  in  wiiich  was  the 
illand  of  St.  Croix.  This  river  had  not 
then  been   named   St.  Croix,  but  had 


been  called  by  them  the  river  of  the 
Etechenins. —  Vide  anha,  ]).  31. 

The  otiier  trail  led  up  the  north 
branch  df  the  I'cnolifcot.  paffing  through 
Lake  I'emadumcook.  and  then  on 
through  Lake  Chefuncook,  finally  reach- 
ing the  fource  of  this  ilream  which  is 
near  thpt  of  the  Chaudiere,  which  latter 
flows  i'lto  the  .St.  Lawrence,  near  Que- 
bec It  would  teem  from  the  text  that 
Champlain  luppofed  that  the  I'enoljfcot 
fiowetl  from  a  lake  into  which  flreams 
flowed  from  both  the  objective  points, 
viz.  St.  Croix  and  Quebec  :  but  this  was 
a  millake  not  at  ail  unnatural,  as  he  had 
never  been  over  the  ground,  and  ob- 
tained his  information  from  tlie  indi.ins, 
whofe  language  he  imperfectly  under- 
ftood. 


I 


• 


r 


I' 


'I 


'', 


i  ■ 


t  i 


48 


Voyages  of 


clrcffcd  in  beavcr-fkins  and  other  furs,  like  the  Canadian  and 
S()iiric|ii()is  ravages,  and  they  liave  tiie  fame  mode  of  Hfe. 

The  20th  of  tlie  month  we  failed  along  the  weflern  coaft, 
and  i)aned  the  mountains  of  Hedabedec,'"^  when  we  anchored. 
The  fame  day  we  exi)lored  the  entrance  to  the  river,  where 
large  veffels  can  approach  ;  but  there  are  infide  fome  reefs,  to 
avoid  which  one  mufl  advance  with  founding  lead  in  hand. 
Our  ravages  left  us,  as  they  did  not  wiih  to  go  to  Quini- 
bequy,  for  the  favages  of  that  place  are  great  enemies  to 
them.  We  failed  fome  eight  leagues  along  the  weflern  coafl 
to  an  ifland '"'^  ten  leagues  diftant  from  Quinibcquy,  where 
we  were  obliged  to  put  in  on  account  of  bad  weather  and 
contrary  wind.  At  one  ])oint  in  our  courfe,  we  palled  a  large 
number  of  illands  and  breakers  extending  fome  leagues  out 
to  fea,  and  very  dangerous.  And  in  view  of  the  bad  weather, 
which  was  fo  unfavorable  to  us,  we  did  not  fail  more  than 
three  or  four  leagues  farther.  All  thefe  iflands  and  coafls 
are  covered  with  extenfive  woods,  of  the  fame  fort  as  that 
which  I  have  reported  above  as  exifling  on  the  other  coafls. 
And  in  confideration  of  the  fmall  quantity  of  provifions  which 
we  had,  we  refolved  to  return  to  our  fettlemcnt  and  wait 
until  the  following  year,  when  we  hoped  to  return  and  ex- 
plore more  extenfivcly.  We  accordingly  fet  out  on  our 
return  on  the  23d  of  September,  and  arrived  at  our  fettle- 
mcnt on  the  2d  of  October  following. 

The  above  is  an  exa(5t  flatement  of  all  that  I  have  ob- 

ferved 

^"2  Bedabedec  is  nn  Indian  word,  fig-  ^"^  Mofquito  and  Metinic  Iflands  are 
nifying  cape  of  the  waters,  .'\nd  was  each  about  ten  lea-^ues  call  of  tlie  Ken- 
plainly  the  point  known  as  Owl's  Head,  nebec.  As  the  party  went  but  four 
It  gave  name  to  the  Camden  Mountains  leagues  further,  the  voyage  mull  have 
alfo.     Vide  antea,  note  95.  terminated  in  Mufcongus  Lay. 


Sicur  dc  Cluiinplain. 


49 


fcrvccl  rcfpce^ini;  not  only  the  coaRs  and  people,  but  alfo  the 
river  of  Noriinibei;ue  ;  and  there  are  none  of  the  marvels 
there  wliich  fonie  perfons  have  defcribed.'"*  I  am  of  opinion 
that  this  reijioii  is  as  difanreeable  in  winter  as  that  of  our 
fetllement,  in  whieh  we  were  greatly  deceived. 


CHAPTER   VI. 


I' 


Ok  the  Mai-  dk  la  Tkkkk,  a  vkky  Dksi-kkate  Mai.adv. —  How  the  Sav- 
ages, Men  a.nm)  Women,  simnd  iiieik  Timic  in  Winter.  —  And  ai.e 
that  otcuRKEO  AT  THE  Settlemicnt  while  we  weiuc  i'assin(;  the 
Winter. 

|HEN  \vc  arrived  at  the  Ifland  of  St.  Croix,  each 
one  had  finilhed  his  place  of  abode.  Winter 
came  ujjon  us  fooncr  than  we  cxpe6ted,  and 
prevented  us  from  doing  many  things  which  we 
had  propofed.  Ncverthelefs,  Sieur  de  IMonts  did 
not  fail  to  have  fomc  gardens  made  on  the  ifland.     Many 

besran 


1*'*  An  idle  flory  had  been  circulated, 
and  even  found  a  place  on  the  pat;es  of 
fol)cr  hillory,  that  on  the  I'cnobfcot,  or 
Norumhegue,  as  it  was  then  called,  tiiere 
c'xillcd  a  fair  town,  a  populous  city,  with 
the  accellories  of  luxury  and  wealth. 
Chaniplain  here  takes  pains  to  (how,  in 
tiie  fullcrt  manner,  that  this  ilory  was  a 
bafelefs  dream  of  fancy,  and  utterly 
without  foundation.  Of  it  Lefcarbot 
naively  fays,  "  If  this  beautiful  town  hath 
ever  exilled  in  nature,  I  would  fain 
know  who  hath  pulled  it  down,  for  there 
are  now  only  a  few  fcattered  wiu;wams 
made  of  poles  covered  with  the  bark 
of  trees  and  the  (kins  of  wild  bealis." 
There  is  no  evidence,  and  no  proba- 
bility, that   this  river  had  been  navi- 


gated by  Europeans  anterior  to  this  ex- 
])loration  of  Chaniplain.  The  exigence 
of  tlie  bay  and  the  river  had  been  noted 
long  before.  They  are  indicated  on  tlie 
map  of  Kibero  in  1529.  Rio  de  (iamas 
and  Rio  (irande  appear  on  early  maps 
as  names  of  this  river,  but  are  foon  dif- 
])laced  for  Norumhega,  a  name  which 
was  fometimes  extended  to  a  wide  range 
of  territory  on  !)otli  (iijes  of  tlie  I'enob- 
fcot.  On  the  Mappe-.Monde  of  1543-47, 
ilTued  by  the  late  M.  Jomard.  it  is  tie- 
nominated  Auorobagra,  evidently  in- 
tended for  Norumbega.  Thevet,  who 
vifited  it.  or  failed  along  its  mouth  in 
1556.  fpeaks  of  it  as  NorumbeL;ue.  It 
is  alleged  that  the  aborigines  called  it 
Agguncia.     According  to  Jean  AUorfe, 

it 


f  !  ' 

I  ^t    .     *  !l  'I 


% 


^ 


1 11^ 


50 


Voydgc's  of 


bt'jijan  to  clear  up  the  ground,  each  his  own.  I  alio  did  I'o 
with  mine,  which  was  very  large,  where  I  planted  a  cjuantily 
of  feeds,  as  alfo  did  the  others  who  had  any,  and  they  came 
up  very  well.  Hut  fmce  the  illand  was  all  I'andy,  every  thing 
dried  up  almofl  as  foon  as  the  fun  Ihone  ujjon  it,  and  we  had 
no  water  for  irrigation  except  from  the  rain,  which  was  in- 
frequent. 

Sieur  dc  Monts  caufed  alfo  cleavings  to  be  made  on  the 
main  land  for  making  <';ardens,  and  at  the  falls  three  leagues 
from  our  fettlement  he  had  work  done  and  fome  wheat  Town, 
which  came  up  very  well  and  rii)ened.  Around  our  habita- 
tion there  is,  at  low  tide,  a  large  number  of  Ihell-filh,  fuch  as 
cockles,  mufcles,  fea-urchins,  and  fea-lhails,  which  were  very 
acceptable  to  all. 

The  fnows  began  on  the  6th  of  0(5lober.  On  the  3d  of 
December,  we  law  ice  pafs  which  came  from  fome  frozen 
river.  The  cold  was  fliarp,  more  fevere  than  in  France,  and 
of  much  longer  duration ;  and  it  fcarccly  rained  at  all  the 
entire  winter.  I  fuppole  that  is  owing  to  the  north  and 
north-weft  winds  paffing  over  high  mountains  always  covered 
with  fnow.  The  latter  was  from  three  to  four  feet  deep  up 
to  the  end  of  the  month  of  April ;  lafling  much  longer,  I  fup- 
pofe,  than  it  would  if  the  country  were  cultivated. 

During  the  winter,  many  of  our  company  were  attacked  by 
a  certain  malady  called  the  nial  dc  la  tcrrc ;  otherwife  fcurvy, 
as  I  have  fmce  heard  from  learned  men.  There  were  pro- 
duced, in  the  mouths  of  thofe  who  had  it,  great  pieces  of  fuper- 

fluous 

it  was  difcovered  by  tlie  Portufjiiefe  and  name  is  various  amontj  early  writers,  but 

Spaniards. — I'ide  llis.iic  la  Si.  J''raHCL\  Norunibegue   is   adoi)te(l   by   the   moll 

par  M.   Lefcarbot,    Paris,    1612,   Qvat.  approved  modern  autliors. 
Liv.  p.  495.     The  orthography  of  this 


'  { 


iA_ 


% 


Sicitr  dc  Chaniplaiii. 


51 


fluous  and  drivelling  (Iclh  (cauHni;  cxtcnfivL'  putivfaclion), 
which  got  the  iippcrhand  to  Inch  an  extent  that  fcarccly  any 
thing  hut  li(|uid  could  he  taken.  Their  teeth  hei  anie  very 
loofe,  and  could  he  i)ulled  out  with  the  fingers  without  its 
caufing  them  pain.  The  fuperlluous  ilelh  was  often  cut  out, 
which  caufed  them  to  ejecl  much  hlood  through  the  mouth. 
Afterwards,  a  violent  pain  fei/.ed  their  arms  and  legs,  which 
remained  fwollen  and  very  hard,  all  fi)()tted  as  if  with  iKa- 
hites;  and  they  could  not  walk  on  account  of  the  ct)ntraclion 
of  the  mufcles,  fo  that  they  were  almoll  without  llrength,  and 
fuffered  intolerable  pains.  They  experienced  pain  alfo  in 
the  loins,  llomach,  and  bowels,  had  a  \ery  bad  cough,  and 
ihort  breath.  In  a  word,  they  were  in  fuch  a  condition  that 
the  majority  of  them  could  not  rife  nor  move,  and  could  not 
even  be  raifed  up  on  their  feet  witlvnit  falling  down  in  a 
fwoon.  So  that  out  of  feventy-nine,  who  compofed  our 
party,  thirty-five  died,  and  more  than  twenty  were  on  the 
point  of  death.  The  majority  of  thofe  who  remained  well 
alfo  complained  of  light  pains  and  lliort  breath.  We  were 
unable  to  find  any  remedy  for  thefe  maladies.  A  poJJ  r.rortcni. 
examination  of  fcvcral  was  made  to  invcfligate  tho  caul'e  of 
their  difeafe. 

In  the  cafe  of  many,  the  interior  parts  Wv  *e  found  morti- 
fied, fuch  as  the  lungs,  which  were  fo  changed  that  no  natural 
fluid  could  be  perceived  in  them.  The  fpleen  was  ferous 
and  fwollen.  The  liver  was  k^tictix?  and  fj)otted,  without 
its  natural  color.  The  vena  cava,  fuperior  and  inferior,  was 
filled  with  thick  coagulated  and  black  blood.  The  gall  was 
tainted.  Neverthelefs,  many  arteries,  in  the  middle  as  well 
as  lower  bowels,  were   found   in  very  good  condition.      In 

the 


'I 


w^ 


r^/- 


li  '  r 


N 


52 


Voyages  of 


the  cafe  of  fome,  incifions  with  a  razor  were  made  on  the 
thighs  where  they  had  purple  fpots,  whence  there  iffued  a 
very  black  clotted  blood.  This  is  what  was  oblerved  on  the 
bodies  of  thofe  infeded  with  this  malady."*^ 

Our  furgeons  could  not  help  fuffering  themfelves  in  the 
fame  manner  cS  the  reft.  Thofe  who  continued  fick  were 
healed  by  fpring,  which  commences  in  this  country  in  May.""^ 
That  led  us  to  believe  that  the  change  of  feafon  reflored  their 
health  rather  than  the  remedies  prefcribed. 

During  this  winter,  all  our  liquors  froze,  except  the  Span- 
ifli  wine.  Cider  was  difpenfed  by  the  pound-  The  caufe  of 
this  lofs  was  that  there  were  no  cellars  to  our  florehoufe,  and 
that  the  air  which  entered  by  the  cracks  was  fliarper  than 
that  outfide.  We  were  obliged  to  ufe  very  bad  water,  and 
drink  melted  fnow,  as  there  were  no  fprings  nor  brooks ;  for 
it  was  not  poffible  to  go  to  the  main  land  in  confequence  of 
the  great  pieces  of  ice  drifted  by  the  tide,  which  varies  three 

Work  on  the  hand- 
mill 


fathoms  between  low  and  high  water. 


108  Mai  lie  la  tcrre.  Champlain  had 
bitter  experiences  of  this  difeafe  in 
(liiebec  durin<T  the  winter  of  1608-9, 
wlien  he  was  llill  ignorant  of  its  char- 
acter ;  and  it  was  not  till  feveral  years 
later  that  he  learned  that  it  was  the  old 
malady  called  J'lurlmt,  from  the  Scla- 
vonic fcorb.  Latinized  \n\.Q  fcorbutit  i/s. 
Lefcarbot  fpeaks  of  this  difeafe  as  little 
underrtood  in  his  time,  but  as  known  to 
Hippocrates.  He  quotes  Olaus  Mag- 
nus, who  defcribes  it  as  it  appeared 
among  the  nations  of  the  north,  who 
called  it  forbet,  Kuxf^ia,  from  kokiW,  bad, 
and  e^is,  a  habit.  This  undoubtedly  ex- 
prelTes  the  true  caufe  of  this  difeafe, 
now  familiarly  known  as  the  fcurvy. 
it  follows  expofure  to  damp,  cold,  and 


impure  atmofphere,  accompanied  by  the 
long-continued  ufe  of  the  fame  kind  of 
food,  particularly  of  fait  meats,  with  bad 
water.  All  of  thefe  conditions  exifted 
at  the  Illand  of  St.  Croix.  Champlain's 
defcription  of  the  difeafe  is  remarkably 
accurate. 

*"''  This  paflage  might  be  read,  "  which 
is  in  this  country  in  May:"  leqtiel  com- 
vicncc  en  ces  pays  la  ejl  en  Alaj'.  As 
Laverdi^re  fuggeils,  it  looks  as  if  Cham- 
plain  wrote  it  firft  commence,  and  then, 
thinking  that  the  winter  he  had  e>.'peri- 
enced  might  have  been  exceptional,  fub- 
itituted  ejl,  omitting  to  erafe  commence, 
fo  that  the  fentence.  ac  it  (lands,  is  faulty, 
containing  two  verbs  inltead  of  one,  and 
being  fufceptible  of  a  double  fenfe. 


.'jgiaaiJi.;" 


Tir-i',  ■  'ioirvnmwmi-iv 


sir»r 


'\\  it 


1 


Siettr  de  Ckamplain. 


I 


53 

mill  was  very  fatiguing,  fince  the  mofl  of  us,  having  flept 
poorly,  and  fuffering  from  infufificiency  of  fuel,  which  we 
could  not  obtain  on  account  of  the  ice,  had  fcarcely  any 
ftrength,  and  alfo  btcaufe  we  ate  only  fait  meat  and  vegeta- 
bles during  the  winter,  which  produce  bad  blocd.  The  lat- 
ter circumftance  was,  in  my  opinion,  a  partial  caufe  of  thefe 
dreadful  maladies.  All  this  produced  difcontent  in  Sieur  de 
Monts  and  others  of  the  fettlement. 

It  would  be  very  difficult  to  afcertain  the  charader  of  this 
region  without  fpending  a  winter  in  it ;  for,  on  arriving  here 
in  fummer,  every  thing  is  very  agreeable,  in  confequence  of 
the  woods,  fine  country,  and  the  many  varieties  of  good  filli 
which  are  found  there,  ''here  are  fix  months  of  winter  in 
this  country. 

The  favages  who  dwell  here  are  few  in  number.  During 
the  winter,  in  the  deepeft  fnows,  they  hunt  elks  and  other 
animals,  on  which  they  live  mofl  of  the  time.  And,  unlefs 
the  fnow  is  deep,  they  fcarcely  get  rewarded  for  their  pains, 
fmce  they  cannot  capture  any  thing  except  by  a  very  great 
effort,  which  is  the  reafon  for  their  enduring  and  fuffering 
much.  When  they  do  not  hunt,  they  live  on  a  fliell-fifh, 
called  the  cockle.  They  clothe  themfelves  in  winter  with 
good  furs  of  beaver  and  elk.  The  women  make  all  the  gar- 
ments, but  not  fo  exadly  but  that  you  can  fee  the  flefn  under 
the  arm-pits,  becaufe  they  have  not  ingenuity  enough  to  fit 
them  better.  When  they  go  a  hunting,  they  ufe  a  kind  of 
fnow-flioe  twice  as  large  as  thofe  hereabouts,  which  they  attach 
to  the  foles  of  their  feet,  and  walk  t'-'us  over  the  fnow  with- 
out finking  in,  the  women  and  children  as  well  as  the  men. 
They  fearch  for  the  track  of  animals,  which,  having  found, 

they 


i  1  I 


i  F 1  n 


I 


'i| 


Wi 


■ 


I    ^ 


k 


!  \ 


54 


Voyages  of 


they  follow  until  they  get  fight  of  the  creature,  when  they 
flioot  at  it  with  their  bows,  or  kill  it  by  means  of  dagg  ^rs 
attached  to  the  end  of  a  fliort  pike,  which  is  very  eafily  done, 
as  the  animals  cannot  walk  on  the  fnow  'without  finking  in. 
Then  the  women  and  children  come  up,  ere6t  a  hut,  and 
they  give  themfelves  to  feafting.  Afterwards,  they  return 
in  fearch  of  other  animals,  and  thus  they  pafs  the  winter. 
In  the  month  of  March  following,  fome  favages  came  and 
gave  us  a  portion  of  their  game  in  exchange  for  bread 
and  other  things  which  we  gave  them.  This  is  the  mode 
of  life  in  winter  of  thefe  people,  which  feems  to  me  a  very 
miferable  one. 

We  looked  for  our  veffels  at  the  end  of  April ;  but,  as  this 
paffed  without  their  arriving,  all  began  to  have  an  ill-boding, 
fearing  that  fome  accident  had  befallen  them.  For  this  rea- 
fon,  on  the  15th  of  May,  Sieur  de  Monts  decided  to  have  a 
barque  of  fifteen  tons  and  another  of  feven  fitted  up,  fo  that  we 
might  go  at  the  end  of  the  month  of  June  to  Gafpe  in  quefl; 
of  veflels  in  which  to  return  to  France,  in  cafe  our  own  fliould 
not  meanwhile  arrive.  But  God  helped  us  better  than  we 
hoped;  for,  on  the  15th  of  June  enfiiing,  while  on  guard 
about  1 1  o'clock  at  night,  Pont  Grave,  captain  of  one  of  the 
veflels  of  Sieur  de  Monts,  arriving  in  a  fliallop,  informed  us 
that  his  fhip  was  anchored  fix  leagues  from  our  fettlement, 
and  he  was  welcomed  amid  the  great  joy  of  all. 

The  next  day  the  veffel  arrived,  and  anchored  near  our 
habitation.  Pont  Grave  informed  us  that  a  veffel  from  St. 
Malo,  called  the  St.  Eftienne,  was  following  him,  bringing 
us  provifions  and  fupplies. 

On  the  1 7th  of  the  month,  Sieur  de  Monts  decided  to  go 


m 


Sieur  de  Champlain. 


55 

in  queft  of  a  place  better  adapted  for  an  abode,  and  with  a 
better  temperature  than  our  own.  With  this  view,  he  had 
the  barque  made  ready,  in  which  he  had  purpofed  to  go  to 
Gafpe. 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Discovery  of  the  Coast  of  the  Almouchiquois  as  far  as  the  Forty- 
second  Degree  of  Latitude,  and  Details  of  this  Voyage. 

N  the  1 8th  of  June,  1605,  Sieur  de  Monts  fet 
out  from  the  Ifland  of  St.  Croix  with  fome 
gentlemen,  twenty  failors,  and  a  favage  named 
Panounias,  together  with  his  wife,  whom  he  was 
unwillmg  to  leave  behind.  Thefe  we  took,  in 
order  to  ferve  us  as  guides  to  the  country  of  the  Almouchi- 
quois,  in  the  hope  of  exploring  and  learning  more  particu- 
larly by  their  aid  what  the  charader  of  this  country  was, 
efpecially  fmce  (lie  was  a  native  of  it. 

Coailing  along  infide  of  Manan,  an  ifland  three  leagues 
from  the  main  land,  we  came  to  the  Ranges  on  the  feaward 
fide,  at  one  of  which  we  anchored,  where  there  was  a  lar"-e 
number  of  crows,  of  which  our  men  captured  a  great  many, 
and  we  called  it  the  Ifle  aux  Corneilles.  Thence  we  went  to 
the  Ifland  of  Monts  Deferts,  at  the  entrance  of  the  river 
Norumbegue,  as  I  have  before  flated,  and  failed  five  or  fix 
leagues  among  many  iflands.  Here  there  came  to  us  three 
favages  in  a  canoe  from  Bedabedec  Point,  where  their  captain 
was;  and,  after  we  had  had  fome  converfation  with  them, 
they  returned  the  fame  day. 

On  Friday,  the   ill  of  July,  we  fet  out  from  one  of  the 

iflands 


j'.ii 


'ii 


J .'' 


I 


/ 


t 


.' 


k 


56 


Voyages  of 


iflands  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  where  there  is  a  very  good 
harlxir  for  veffels  of  a  hundred  or  a  hundred  and  fifty  tons. 
This  day  we  made  fome  twenty-five  leagues  between  Beda- 
bedec  Point  and  many  iflands  and  rocks,  which  we  obferved 
as  far  as  the  river  Quinibequy,  at  the  mouth  of  which  is  a  very 
hiijh  ifland,  which  we  called  the  Tortoife.'"^  Between  the 
latter  and  the  main  land  there  are  fome  fcattering  rocks, 
which  are  covered  at  full  tide,  although  the  fea  is  then  feen 
to  break  over  them.'°^  Tortoife  Ifland  and  the  river  lie  fouth- 
fouth-eaft  and  north-north-weft.  As  you  enter,  there  are  two 
medium-fized  iflands  forming  the  entrance,  one  on  one  fide, 
the  other  on  the  other ;  ^^^  and  Ibme  three  hundred  paces  far- 
ther in  are  two  rocks,  where  there  is  no  wood,  but  fome  little 
grafs.     We  anchored  three  hundred  paces  from  the  entrance 

in 


Champlain's  Description  of  the  accompanying  Map. 

QUINIBEQUV. 

Tlie  figures  indicate  fathoms  of  water . 

A.  The  courfe  of  the  river.  B.  Two  iflands  at  the  entrance  of  the  river.  C. 
Two  very  dangerous  rocks  in  the  river.  D.  Jilets  and  rocks  along  the  coaft. 
E.  Shoals  where  at  full  tide  veflels  of  fixty  tons'  burden  may  run  aground.  F. 
Place  where  the  favages  encamp  when  they  come  to  fifli.  G.  Sandy  flioals  along 
the  coafl.  H.  Pond  of  frefli  water.  /.  Brook  where  fliallops  can  enter  at  half 
tide.     L,  Iflands  to  the  number  of  four  juft:  within  the  mouth  of  the  river. 


^•''^  IJle  de  la  Toriue,  commonly  known 
as  Seguin  Ifland,  high  and  rocky,  with 
precipitous  fhores.  It  is  nearly  equi- 
diflant  from  Wood,  Pond,  and  Salter's 
Iflands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec, 
and  about  one  mile  and  three  quarters 
from  each.  The  United  States  light 
upon  it  is  180  feet  above  the  level  of  the 


fea.  It  may  be  feen  at  the  diflance  of 
twenty  miles. 

i""*  Ellingwood  Rock,  Seguin  Ledges, 
and  While  Ledge. 

1'^^  Pond  Ifland  on  the  weft,  and  Stage 
Ifland  on  the  eail :  the  two  rocks  re- 
ferred to  in  the  fame  fentence  are  now 
called  the  Sugar  Loaves. 


i^f 


^mmmm 


\  ^    "^     '^  .p^  -^'i 


>\ 


■#^ 


1^' 


•-l^ 


-^4 


I 


( 

i#J»       It 


•/^' 


,:**■•  .1 


■>»*   'fit 


4 


,;t5i 


it    .■»'f^; 


r 


y^ 


..«»»V*»T 


tap      ^    : 


-"^v. 


«s;.^-j»-  I*!*  js* 


Vi 


5, 


Mr 


H?t 


«::f.' 


.-  ^1 


i;i  ; 


111 


if 


1: 


;(. 


('I 


liilH 


,     t!,-       '! 


'     •■-i"di<'il   a"'i     i!;\   I..  •■) 
■  ■    -■■.  ■^v  ii  K  I'i  '.\i'     .i.'k'r\-i  ( i 

I'"'    \lv  li      til 


c 


J 


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.  ! 
..11. 


1 

I. ;  1 


■  "■;  -i.    .Hi    I     '"1    ,  :,-<    <    !■,  ;,.\\  ,^,'_  _  ;..     . 


'■•■■■■■     U  alr'.'4-ti!:4    ^^^^.,, 


I 


I : 


'':■'•■'•     «.••    'W.I 

•;    -■•I     ■■\U    ■.:-.      f  ;;- 

ill 


"■i    ■->■■  _..:i],'    ....  !-;^  •;     - 

n.i-c  ll^>:(U•;,     ihriy  |  i     ■ 

i:i  /iii,^    lit    t!  :•    '-n   ■   -i,    ,,1    !f:; 
'!■■       .11)' r.;-     -,|1(;    '  ■)  ;.     .   ■,.]    |  • , ,-, 


■aC, 


1 


i-ii'".'  ".    ■:>•■:    .t'l  'll.' 


1  ■■"     '.':    I'le     nil  ■pi.c  .. 


'"^    i  •■■:';  ir..:.i;   .si  ih.-  .s'-';,  nnti  S'.i^u 

■'  ■■■•''    ''•    !■'    'i.i-    l.-iii.^    !'  !M.:i:i  ..    'i      .,-r.v 
>.^!ii.u  fl    •  :-  J.;.'i    I,'-;uf:.-. 


MNwuta 


I 


ill 


:?»| 


iU 


I    1' 


■  ' 
I 


i  '■ 


i  ^ 


I// 


: 


*(i 


Sieur  de  Champlain. 


57 


in  five  and  fix  fathoms  of  water.  While  in  this  place,  we 
were  overtaken  by  fogs,  on  account  of  which  we  refolved  to 
enter,  in  order  to  fee  the  upper  part  of  the  river  and  the 
favages  who  live  there ;  and  we  fet  out  for  this  purpofe 
on  the  5th  of  the  month.  Having  made  fome  leagues,  our 
barque  came  near  being  lofl  on  a  rock  which  we  grazed  in  pall- 
ing."" Further  on,  we  met  two  canoes  which  had  come  to 
hunt  birds,  which  for  the  mofl  part  are  moulting  at  this  fea- 
fon,  and  cannot  fly.  We  addreffed  thefe  lavages  by  aid  of 
our  own,  who  went  to  them  with  his  wife,  who  made  them 
underftand  the  reafon  of  our  coming.  We  made  friends  with 
them  and  with  the  favages  of  this  river,  who  ferved  us  as 
guides.  Proceeding  farther,  in  order  to  fee  their  captain, 
named  IManthoumermer,  we  paffed,  after  we  had  gone  fcven 
or  eight  leagues,  by  fome  iflands,  flraits,  and  brooks,  which 

extend 


1*"  This  was  apparently  in  the  upper 
part  of  Back  River,  where  it  is  ex- 
ceeciinjjiy  narrow.  The  minute  and  cir- 
cumftantial  defcription  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Kennebec,  and  the  pofitive  flate- 
ment  in  the  text  that  they  entered  the 
river  fo  defcribed,  and  the  conform- 
ity of  the  dcfcrijition  to  that  laid  down 
on  our  (roall  Survey  Charts,  as  well 
as  on  Chamj^lain's  local  map,  all  ren- 
der it  certain  that  they  entered  the 
mouth  of  the  Kennebec  proper;  and, 
having  entered,  they  niurt  have  pafled 
on  a  flood-tide  into  and  through  Hack 
River,  which  in  fome  places  is  fo  nar- 
row that  their  little  barque  could  hardly 
fail  to  be  grazed  in  p.ifTmg.  Having 
reached  Hockomock  Bay,  they  palTed 
down  through  the  lower  Hell  Gate, 
rounded  the  fouthern  point  of  Weft 
Port  or  Jerremifquam  Ifland,  failing 
up  its  eaftern  fliore  until  they  reached 
the  harbor  of  Wifcadet ;  then  down  the 


weftern  fide,  turning  Hockomock  Point, 
threading  the  narrow  paffage  of  the 
Safanoa  River  tlirough  the  upper  Hell 
Gate,  entering  the  Sagadahoc,  paffing 
the  Chops,  and  finally  through  the  Neck, 
into  Merrymeeting  Pay.  The  narrow- 
nefs  of  the  channel  and  the  want  of 
water  at  low  tide  in  Pack  River  'vould 
fcem  at  firft  blufh  to  throw  a  doubt  over 
the  poffibility  of  Chamnlajn's  palling 
through  this  tidal  paffage.  Put  it  has 
at  leaft  feven  feet  of  water  at  high  tide. 
His  little  barque,  of  fifteen  tons,  with- 
out any  cargo,  would  not  draw  more 
than  four  feet  at  moft,  and  would  i^afs 
through  without  any  difficulty,  incom- 
moded only  by  the  narrownefs  of  the 
channel  to  which  Champlain  refers. 
With  the  fame  barque,  they  i)aired  over 
the  bar  at  Naufet,  or  iMalleliarre,  where 
Champlain  diftindtly  fays  there  were 
only  four  feet  of  water.  —  Vide  pojlca, 
p.  81. 


8 


S      . 


i 

■ 


l.i' 


I    ' 


t: 


i   : 


J           Hi 

^      1 

■  ill 

f.r 


111*' 


ss 


Voyages  of 


extend  along  tlie  river,  where  we  faw  fome  fine  nu-adows. 
After  we  had  coafted  along  an  ifland '"  fonie  four  leagues  in 
length,  they  conducted  us  to  where  their  chief  was  "-  with 
twenty-five  or  thirty  lavages,  who,  as  foon  as  we  had  anchored, 
came  to  us  in  a  canoe,  re[jarated  a  fliort  diftance  from  ten 
others,  in  which  were  thofe  who  accompanied  him.  Coming 
near  our  barque,  he  made  an  harangue,  in  which  he  ex])relTed 
the  pleafure  it  gave  him  to  fee  us,  and  laid  that  he  defired  to 
form  an  alliance  with  us  and  to  make  peace  with  his  enemies 
through  our  mediation.  lie  faid  that,  on  the  next  dav,  he 
would  fend  to  two  other  captains  of  favages,  who  were  in  the 
interior,  one  called  Marchin,  and  the  other  Safmou,  chief 
of  the  river  Quinibcquy.  Sieur  de  Monts  gave  them  fome 
cakes  and  peas,  with  which  they  w'crc  greatly  pleafed.  The 
next  day  they  guided  us  down  the  river  another  way  than 
that  by  which  we  hnd  come,  in  order  to  go  to  a  lake ;  and, 
paffing  by  fome  iflands,  they  left,  each  one  of  them,  an  arrow 
near  a  cape  "'  where  all  the  favages  pafs,  and  they  believe 
that  if  they  fliould  not  do  this  fome  misfortune  would  befall 
thorn,  according  to  the  perfuafions  of  the  devil.  They  live 
in  fuch  fupcrftitions,  and  practife  many  others  of  the  fame 
fort.  Beyond  this  cape  we  paffed  a  very  narrow  waterfall, 
but  only  with  great  difficulty ;  for,  although  we  had  a  favor- 
able and  frefli  wind,  and  trimmed  our  fails  to  receive  it  as 
well  as  poffible,  in  order  to  fee  whether  we  could  not  pafs  it 
in  that  way,  we  were  obliged  to  attach  a  hawfer  to  fome  trees 

on 

111  Weft  Port,  or  Jerremifquam  Ifland.  another  way  than  that  by  which  they 

1"  This   was   WifcaiTet    Harlior,    as  had  come, 

farther  on  it  will  he  feen  that  from  this  "^  Hockomock   Point,  a  rocky  pre- 

point  they  ftarted  down  the  river,  taking  cipitous  bluff. 


Sieur  de  Champlain. 


59 


on  (horc  and  all  ])ull  on  it.  In  this  way,  by  means  of  our 
arms  together  with  the  help  of  the  wind,  which  was  favorable 
to  us,  we  fucceedcd  in  paffing  it.  The  favages  accompany- 
ing us  carried  their  canoes  by  land,  being  unable  to  row 
them.  After  going  over  this  fall,  we  (aw  (bme  fine  meadows. 
I  was  greatly  furprifed  by  this  fall,  fince  as  we  defcended 
with  the  tide  we  found  it  in  our  favor,  but  contrary  to  us 
when  we  came  to  the  fall.  But,  after  we  had  palTed  it,  it  de- 
scended as  before,  which  gave  us  great  fatisfaction.'" 
iv\i\\<g  our  route,  we  came  to  the  lake,""'  which  is  from 


*"  Tlic  movement  of  the  waters 
about  tliis  "n.irrow  waterfall"  has  l)een 
a  pii/./Ie  from  the  days  of  Cliamplaiii  to 
the  profeiit  time,  The  phenomena  liave 
not  clianj^cd.  Having  confulted  tlie 
United  States  Coafl   I'ilot  and  iikewife 


Pur- 
three 
to 

lie  drained  off.  At  half  chh.  on  a  fprinj; 
tide,  a  wall  of  water  from  fix  inches  to 
a  foot  llret(  lies  acrofs  tlie  llream,  ami 
the  roar  of  the  Hood  hoiliii'^  over  the 
ro<:ks  ;  i  the  (iate  cm  lie  licard  two  miles 
below.     'I'iie   tide  (onliiuies  to  flow  up 


feveral  perfons  who  have  navi<j;ated  thefe    the  Saf  inoa  from  the  Sheejjfcot  not  only 


waters  and  have  a  perfonal  knowledj^e 
of  the  "fall,"  the  following  is.  we  tiiink, 
a  fatisfactory  explanation.  The  llream 
in  which  tiie  fall  occurs  is  called  the 
Safanoa,  and  is  w  tidal  current  ttow- 
ing  from  the  Kennebec,  oppofite  the 
city  of  Bath,  to  the  Sheepfcot.  It  was 
up  tills  tidal  paffage  that  Champlain  was 
failins;  from  the  waters  of  the  Sheepfcot 
to  the  Kennebec,  and  the  "  narrow 
waterfall"  was  what  is  now  called  the 
upper   Hell   Gate,   which    is   only   fifty 


on  the  flood,  but  for  Ibme  time  on  the 
ebb,  as  the  waters  in  the  ujjper  part  of 
the  SheejjfLOt  and  its  bays,  in  returnir„:, 
naturally  force  thcmfelves  up  this  paf- 
fat;e  until  they  are  fufficiently  drained 
off  to  turn  the  current  in  the  .Salanoa  in 
the  other  direction.  Champlain,  failinfj 
from  the  Sliee])fcot  up  the  Safanoa,  ar- 
rived at  the  (iate  probably  jull  as  the 
tide  was  beginning;  to  turn,  and  when 
there  was  comparatively  only  a  flight 
fall,  but  yet  enough  to  make  it  necefTary 


yards  wide,  hemmed  in  by  walls  of  rock  to  force  their  little  barcpie  up  through 
on  both  fides.  Above  it  the  Safanoa  the  Oate  by  means  of  hawfers  as  de- 
expands  into  a  broad  bay.  When  the  fcribed  in  the  text.  After  getting  a 
tide  from  the  Kennebec  has  filled  this  fliort  diflance  from  the  narrows,  he 
bay,  the  wate.'  ruflies  through  this  nar-  would  be  on  the  water  ebbing  back  into 
row  gate  with  a  velocity  fometimes  of  the  Kennebec,  and  would  he  Hill  moving 
thirteen  miles  an  hour.  'I'here  is  prop-  with  the  tide,  as  he  had  been  until  he 
erly  no  fall  in  the  bed  of  the  fiream,  but  reached  the  fall. 

the  appearance  of  a  fall   is  occafioned        ^'^  Merrymceting  15ay,  fo  called  from 

by  the  pent-up  waters  of  the  bay  above  the  meeting  in  this  bay  of  the  twf)  rivers 

rufhing  through  this  narrow  outlet,  hav-  mentioned  in  the  text  a  little  below,  viz., 

ing  accumulated  falkr  than  they  could  the  Kennebec  and  the  Androfcoggin. 


t 


w 


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rr 


W, 


I 


m 


f 


fi 


.i 


60 


Voyages  of 


to  four  leagues  in  length.  Here  arc  fome  ifjancls,  and  two 
rivers  enter  it,  the  Quinibequy  coming  from  the  north 
north-eaft,  and  the  other  from  the  north-wcfl,  whence  were 
to  come  Marchin  and  Safinou.  Having  awaited  them  all 
this  day,  and  as  they  did  not  come,  we  rcfolved  to  improve 
our  time.  We  weighed  anchor  accordingly,  and  there  ac- 
companied us  two  ravages  from  this  lake  to  ferve  as  guides. 
The  fame  day  we  anchored  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  where 
we  caufjht  a  lariie  number  of  excellent  fifh  of  various  forts. 
Meanwhile,  our  lavages  went  hunting,  but  did  not  return. 
The  route  by  which  we  deltended  this  river  is  much  fafer 
and  better  than  that  by  which  we  had  gone.  Tortoife  Ifland 
before  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  in  latitude""  44'  ;  and  19° 
12'  of  the  defle(5lion  of  the  magnetic  needle.  They  go  by 
this  river  acrofs  the  country  to  Quebec  fome  fifty  leagues, 
making  only  one  portage  of  two  leagues.  After  the  por- 
tage, you  enter  another  little  flream  which  flows  into  the 
great  river  St.  Lawrence.'"  This  river  Quinibequy  is  very 
dangerous  for  veffels  half  a  league  from  its  mouth,  on  account 
of  the  fmall  amount  of  water,  great  tides,  rocks  and  flioals  out- 
fide  as  well  as  within.  But  it  has  a  good  channel,  if  it  were 
well  marked  out.  The  land,  fo  far  as  I  have  feen  it  along 
the  fliores  of  the  river,  is  very  poor,  for  there  are  only  rocks 
on  all  fides.  There  are  a  great  many  fmall  oaks,  and  very 
little  arable  land.  Fifli  abound  here,  as  in  the  other  rivers 
which  I  have  mentioned.     The  people  live  like  thofe  in  the 

neighborhood 

"•  The  latitude  of  Seguin,  here  called  proach   very  near    to    the    Chauditre, 

Tortoife  Ifland,  is  43°  42'  25".  which  flows  into  the  St.  Lawrence  near 

"'  The  head-waters  of  the  Kennebec,  Quebec. 
as  well  as  thofe  of  the  Penobfcot,  ap- 


Sicur  de  Chavipiain, 


6i 


neighborhood  of  our  fcttlement ;  and  they  told  us  that  the 
ravages,  who  plant  the  Indian  corn,  dwelt  very  far  in  the  in- 
terior, and  that  they  had  given  up  planting  it  on  the  coafts 
on  account  of  the  war  they  had  with  others,  who  came  and 
took  it  away.  This  is  what  I  have  been  able  to  learn  about 
this  region,  which  I  think  is  no  better  than  i\v>\  others. 

On  the  8th  of  the  month,  we  fet  out  from  the  mouth  of 
this  river,  not  being  able  to  do  fo  fooner  on  account  of 
the  fogs.  We  made  that  day  fome  four  leagues,  and  palTed 
a  bay,'"  where  there  are  a  great  many  iflands.  From  here 
large  mountains  "''  are  feen  to  the  wed,  in  which  is  the  dwell- 
ing-place of  a  ravage  captain  called  Aneda,  who  encamps 
near  the  river  Quinibcquy.  I  was  fatisfied  from  this  name 
that  it  was  one  of  his  tribe  that  had  dilcovered  the  plant 
called  Aneda,'-"  which  Jacques  Cartier  faid  was  so  powerful 
againfl  the  malady  called  fcurvy,  of  which  we  have  already 
Ipoken,  which  haraffed  his  company  as  well  as  our  own, 
when  they  wintered  in  Canada.  The  favages  have  no  knowl- 
edge at  all  of  this  plant,  and  are  not  aware  of  its  exiflence, 

although 

"8  Cafco  Bay,  which  ftrctches  from  delineated  by  this  map.     They  will  alfo 

Cape   Small   Point  to  Cape   Elizabeth,  be  found  on  the  Mappe-Monde  of  about 

It  has  within  it  a  hundred  and  thirty-  the  middle  of  the  fixleenth  century,  and 

fix  ill.inds.     They  anchored  and  pafled  on   Sebaftian   Cabot's   map.   1544,  both 

the  night  fomewhere  within  the  limits  included  in  the  "  Monuments  de  la  Gd- 

of  this  bay,  but  did  not  attempt  its  ex-  ographie  "  of  Jomard,  and  they  are  alfo 

ploration.  indicated    on    numerous     other    early 

"*  Thefe  were  the  White  Mountains  maps, 
in  New  Hampfhire,  towering  above  the        '■^^  This  conjetlure  is  not  fuftained  by 

fea   6,225   feet.     They  are   about   fixty  any  evidence  iieyond  the  fimilarity  of 

miles  dirtant  from  Cafco  15ay,  and  were  the  names.     There  are  numerous  idle 

obferved  by  all  the  early  voyagers  as  opinions  as  to  the  kind  of  plant  which 

they  failed   along  the  coaft  of  Maine,  was    fo    efficacious   a   remedy   for   the 

They  are  referred  to  on  Kibero's  Map  fcurvy,    but    they   are    utterly   witliout 

of  1529  by  the  Spanilh  word  vibtanas,  foundation.     There  does  not  appear  to 

and  were   evidently  feen    by    Eflevan  be  any  means  of  determining  what  the 

Gomez  in  1525,  whofe  difcoveries  are  healing  plant  was. 


11 


i    ; 


() 


t 


62 


Voyages  of 


althouf';li  the  above-mentioned  lavaGfC  has  the  fame  name. 
The  following  day  we  made  eight  leagues.'-'  As  we  paffed 
along  the  coafl;,  we  perceived  two  columns  of  fmoke  which 
fome  favages  made  to  attract  our  attention.  We  went  and 
anchored  in  the  direction  of  them  behind  a  fmall  ifland  near 
the  main  land,'"  where  we  law  more  than  eighty  favages 
runninu:  alone:  the  fliore  to  fee  us,  dancins:  and  c^ivins:  ex- 
prcffion  to  their  joy.  Sieur  de  Monts  fent  two  men  together 
with  our  favage  to  vifit  them.  After  they  had  fpokcn  fome 
time  with  them,  and  allured  them  of  our  friendlhip,  we  left 
with  them  one  of  our  number,  and  they  delivered  to  us  one 
of  their  companions  as  a  hoflage.  Meanwhile,  Sieur  de 
Monts  vifited  an  ifland,  which  is  very  beautiful  in  view  of 
what  it  produces ;  for  it  has  fine  oaks  and  nut-trees,  the  foil 
cleared  up,  and  many  vineyards  bearing  beautiful  grapes  in 
their  feafon,  which  wer:  the  firft:  we  had  feen  on  all  thefe 
coafts  from  the  Cap  de  la  Heve.  We  named  it  Ifle  de 
Bacchus.'-'^  It  being  full  tide,  we  weighed  anchor  and  en- 
tered 


^■-1  'riic  four  leagues  of  tlie  previous 
day  p.dded  to  tlie  ciglit  of  this  bring 
them  from  tlie  Kcnnelicc  to  Saco  Hay. 

1'-  Tlie  fmall  iliand  "  proche  de  la 
grande  terre  "  was  Stratton  Iliand  :  tliey 
anchored  on  the  nortliern  (ideand  nearly 
tail  of  Hluff  Iliand.  which  is  a  quarter 
of  a  n^ile  diftant.  The  Indians  came 
down  to  welcome  them  from  the  i)rotn- 
ontory  long  known  as  Black  I'oint,  now 
cr.'ied  I'rout's  Neck.  Compare  Cham- 
]ilain's  local  maj)  and  the  United  States 
Coalt  -Survey  Charts. 

^-*  Champlain's  narrative,  together 
with  his  fketch  or  drawing,  illuilrating 
the  mouth  of  the  Saco  and  its  environs, 
compared  with  the  United  States  Coall 
Survey  Charts,  renders  it  certain  that 


this  was  Richmond  Ifland.  Lefcarbot 
defcribes  it  as  a  great  ifland.  about 
half  a  league  in  compafs,  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  bay  of  the  faid  place  of 
Clioiiacoet.  It  is  about  a  mile  long,  and 
eight  hundred  yards  in  its  greatefl 
width.  —  Co(i/l  Pilot.  It  received  its 
prefent  name  at  a  very  early  period. 
It  was  granted  under  the  title  of  "a 
fmall  ifland,  called  Richmond,"  by  the 
Council  for  New  England  to  Walter 
I5agnall,  Dec.  2,  1 63 1 .  —  / /V/i,-  Calendar 
of  Em^.  State  Papers,  Col.  15 74- 1660, 
p.  137.  Concerning  the  death  of  15ag- 
nall  on  this  ifland" a  fliort  time  before 
the  above  grant  was  made,  vi^le  Win- 
throfsHijl  Xcw  Eng.,  •  :\  1853,  Vol.  I. 
pp.  75,  118. 


Sictcr  de  Cliaviplain. 


63 


tered  a  little  river,  which  we  could  not  Iboner  do ;  for  there  is 
a  bar,  there  being  at  low  tide  only  half  a  fathom  of  water,  at 
full  tide  a  fathom  and  a  half,  and  at  the  higheft  water  two 
fathoms.  On  the  other  fide  of  the  bar  there  are  three,  four, 
five,  and  fix  fathoms.  When  we  had  anchored,  a  large  num- 
ber of  lavages  came  to  the  bank  of  tiie  river,  and  began  to 
dance.  Their  captain  at  the  time,  whom  they  called  Hone- 
mechin,'-^  was  not  with  them.  He  arrived  about  two  or 
three  hours  later  with  two  canoes,  when  he  came  Iweeping 
entirely  round  our  barque.  Our  favage  could  underfl;and  only 
a  few  words,  as  the  language  of  the  Almouchiquois  '■'"'  (for 
that  is  the  name  of  this  nation)  differs  entirely  from  that  of 
the  Souriquois  and  Etechemins.  Thefe  people  gave  figns  of 
being  greatly  pleafed.  Their  chief  had  a  good  figure,  was 
young  and  agile.  We  fent  Ibme  articles  of  merchandiie  on 
ihore  to  barter  with  them ;  but  they  had  nothing  but  their 
robes  to  give  in  exchange,  for  they  prelerve  only  fi.ich  furs 
as  they  need  for  their  garments.  Sieur  de  Monts  ordered 
fome  provifions  to  be  given  to  their  chief,  with  which  he  was 
greatly  pleafed,  and  came  leveral  times  to  the  fide  of  our 
boat  to  fee  us.  Thefe  favages  fliave  off  the  hair  far  up  on 
the  head,  and  wear  what  remains  very  long,  which  they  comb 
and  twifl;  behind  in  various  ways  very  neatly,  intertwined 
with  feathers  which  they  attach  to  the  head.  They  paint 
their  faces  black  and  red,  like  the  other  lavages  which  we 
have  feen.  They  are  an  agile  people,  with  well-formed  bod- 
ies. 


^-*  Lefcarl)ot  calls  him  Olmcchin. — 
Hijhiire  de  la  Nouvelle  France^  par  M. 
Lufcarhot,  I'aris,  161 2,  j).  55S. 

1-^  They  had  hoped  that  the  wife  of 
Panounias,  their  Indian  guide,  who  was 


faid  to  have  been  horn  amonj;  the  Al- 
mouchiquois, would  he  able  to  interpret 
their  lan^uaj^e,  but  in  this  they  appear 
to  have  been  difappointed.  —  I'idc  an- 
ted, p.  55. 


I  ■ 


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64 


Voyages  of 


ies.  Their  weapons  are  pikes,  clubs,  bows  and  arrows,  at 
the  end  of  which  fome  attach  the  tail  of  a  fifli  called  the 
fignoc,  others  bones,  while  the  arrows  of  others  are  entirely 
of  wood.  They  till  and  cultivate  the  foil,  fomething  which 
we  have  not  hitherto  obfervcd.  In  the  place  of  ploughs,  they 
ufe  an  inflrument  of  very  hard  wood,  fliaped  like  a  fpade. 
This  river  is  called  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  country  Chou- 
acoet.'-'' 

The  next  day  Sieur  de  Monts  and  I  landed  to  obferve 
their  tillage  on  the  bank  of  the  river.  We  faw  their  Indian 
corn,  which  they  raife  in  gardens.  Planting  three  or  four 
kernels  in  one  place,  they  then  heap  up  about  it  a  quantity 
of  earth  with  fliells  of  the  fignoc  before  mentioned.  Then 
three  feet  diftant  they  plant  as  much  more,  and  thus  in  fuc- 
ceffion.  With  this  corn  they  put  in  each  hill  three  or  four 
Brazilian  beans,^^^  which  are  of  different  colors.  When  they 
grow  up,  they  interlace  with  the  corn,  which  reaches  to  the 
height  of  from  five  to  fix  feet;  and  they  keep  the  ground 
very  free   from   weeds.      We  faw   there   many  fquaflies,^^'^ 

and 

^2'  From  the  Indian  word,  M'-foo-ah-  joined  to  an  utter  indifference  to  a  mat- 

koo-ct,  or,  as  the  French  pronounced  ter  which  feemed  to  them  of  trifling  im- 

it,  CJioiiacor.t,  which  had  been  the  name  portance. 

applied  l)y  the  al)orij>;ines  to  this  locahty  i'^'  Febues  du   Br<!/ll.      This   is   the 

we  know  not  how  long,  is  derived  the  well-known    trailing;    or    bufli-bean    of 

name  Saco,  now  given  to  the  river  and  New     England,     Phafeolus     vulgaris, 

city  in  the  fame  vicinity.     The  orthog-  called  the  "Brazilian  bean"  becaufe  it 

raphy  given  to  the  original  word  is  va-  refeml)le J  a  bean  known  in  France  at 

rious,  as  Sawocotuck,  Sowocatuck,  Sa-  that  time  under  that  name.     It  is  fome- 

wakquatook,   Sockhigones,   and    Choii-  times  called  the  kidney-bean.    .It  is  in- 

acoll.     The   variations   in   this,   as    in  digenous  to  America, 

other   Indian   words,   may  have   arifen  ^-*  Ciirouilles,  the   common   fummer 

from  a   mifapprehenfion   of  the   found  fquafh,  Cuairbita  polymorpha,  as  may 

given  by  the  aborigines,  or  from  igno-  be   feen   by   reference   to   Champlain's 

ranee,   on   the   part   of  writers,  of  the  map  of  1612,  where  its  form  is  deline- 

proper  method  of  reprefenting  founds,  ated  over  the  infcription,  la  fonne  ties 

fitroiiles. 


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J. 


'^^'"■•'i-  de  Champlain 


65 


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S.-ifK 


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:  tn-  :ih,-.;.  .i,u!  :.i,a;  ■;;.•,  J  fiv  H'^i-h  ,f  si  i-, 

.1    ill  )'ro-'l'-   :>>  I  I;.  ;v,,  rk..(;    _'      i~  ,  ,1.;;  '.f 


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Siettr  de  Champlain. 


65 


and    pumpkins/-''   and    tobacco,   which   they   Hkcwife   culti 
vate/^" 


The 


Champlain's  Explanation  of  the  accompanying  Map. 

Chouacoit  K. 
Tlw  fif^iires  indicate  fathoms  0/  tvater. 

//.The  river  /?.  Place  where  they  have  their  fortrefs.  C.  Cabins  in  the 
open  fidds  near  which  they  cultivate  the  land  and  plant  Indian  corn.  /;  Exten- 
five  traa  of  and  which  is  l^indy,  but  covered  with  corals.  E.  Another  place  where 
they  have  their  dweliings  all  together  after  they  have  planted  their  corn.  f 
Marfhes  with  good  pafturage.  U.  Spring  of  fre(h  water.  //.  A  large  point  of 
land  all  cleared  up  except  fome  fruit  trees  and  wild  vines.  /.  Little  idand  at  the 
entrance  of  the  river.  L.  Another  iOet.  J/.  Two  iflands  under  (},elter  of  which 
velTels  can  anchor  with  good  bottom.  JV.  A  point  of  land  cleared  up  where 
Marchin  came  to  us.  O.  Four  iflands.  P.  Little  brook  dry  at  low  tide.  ^. 
ShoaLs  along  the  coaft.  7?.  Roadfled  where  velTels  can  anchor  while  waiting  for 
the  tide.  * 

Notes  Of  the  two  iflands  in  the  northern  part  of  the  bav,  the  larger  marked 
Af  ,s  Stratton  Ifland,  nearly  half  a  mile  long,  and  a  mile  and  a  half  from  Pmu's 
Neck   \vdi,ch  lies  north  of  it.     A  quarter  of  a  mile  from  Stratton   s     luff  I  land 

i  namea  IS  Balket  Ifland.  1  he  reck  or  peninfu  a,  fouth-weft  of  the  iflands  i<5 
now  called  he  Pooi  much  reforted  to  as  a  watering-place  ,n  he  fummer  The 
Ifland  near  the  mouth  of  the  river  is  Ram  Ifland,  am.  :hat  direcllv  3h  of  is 
Eagle  Ifland.  from  the  mouth  of  the  River  to  Prout's  Neek  — .rked  V  is  one  of 
the  fineft  beaches  in  New  England,  extending  about  fix  nautiVai  mi  es      hs     uth- 

thenX'oTn"  ^""Tu  ^%I'^7y' /'^^  "O'-tl^er'-n  Scarborougl.  and  Iway  be'  w  en 
them  IS  Old  Orchard  Beach,  the  latter  a  popular  refort  in  the  fummer  mont  s  of 
perfons  from  diltant  parts  of  the  United  States  and  Canada. 


fttranles.  It  is  indigenous  to  America 
Our  word  fquafli  is  derived  from  the  In^ 
dian  a//cutafquaj)i  or  ifyuouterfi/itaJJi. 
"  In  fummer,  when  their  corne  is  fpcnt, 
Ifquouterfquaflies    '      


fquaj/i,    their   Vine    aples.    which    the 
EnailiJJi  from  them  call  SqunJJics,  about 
the  bignefTe  of  Apples,  of  feverall  col- 
is   tl.,.ir   K«ft   r      r    °"'''l'  '"^  ^'^■^^*'  '"S'lt.  wholefome  refrefli- 

Prince    Soriptv  fd     n    ^/     u  V/7   "i"^'  .'-"''^A^''  the  pumpkin,  C /^//r/vAj 

rrince   bociety  ed.,  p.   76.     ^' AJkiita-    maxima,  indigenous    to  America       4s 

9  the 


\  V     :l     ' 


n. 


I 


1 
I 


'/ 


I 


66 


Voyages  of 


f ' 


m 


'I    W'  ' 


K     i 


Hi' 


The  Indian  corn  which  we  faw  was  at  that  time  about  two 
feet  high,  fome  of  it  as  liigh  as  three.  Tlie  beans  were 
beginning  to  flower,  as  alfo  the  pumpkins  and  Iquaflies. 
They  plant  their  corn  in  May,  and  gather  it  in  September. 

We 


the  pumpkin  and  likewife  the  fquafli 
were  ve,i,'otabIes  hitherto  unknown  to 
Chami)lain,  there  was  no  French  word 
by  which  he  could  accurately  identify 
tl'iem.  The  names  tjiven  to  them  were 
fueh  as  he  thought  would  dercribe 
them  to  his  countrymen  more  nearly 
than  any  others.  Had  he  been  a  bota- 
nill,  he  would  probably  have  given  them 
new  names. 

130  i\'t,(»i.  Tobacco,  Nicotiana  ruf- 
ticd,  fometimes  called  wild  tobacco.  It 
was  a  fmaller  and  more  hardy  Ipecies 
than  the  A'lcotiatta  tabaciiin,  now  culti- 
vated in  warmer  climates,  but  had  the 
fame  qualities  thoujih  inferior  in  llren^th 
and  aroma.  It  was  found  in  cultivation 
by  the  Indians  all  alonj;  our  coalt  and 
in  Canada.  Cartier  obferved  it  throwing 
in  Canada  in  1535.  Of  it  he  fays: 
"  There  <;roweth  alfo  a  certain  kind  of 
herl)e,  wh  .-reof  in  Sommer  they  make  a 
great  prouifion  for  all  the  yccre,  making 
great  acco.int  of  it,  and  onely  men  vfe 
of  it,  and  firft  they  caufe  it  to  be  dried 
in  the  Sunne,  then  weare  it  aliout  their 
neckes  wrapped  in  a  little  bealls  fkinne 
made  like  a  little  bagge,  with  a  hollow 
pecce  of  rtone  or  wood  like  a  pipe  ; 
then  when  they  pleafe  they  make  pou- 
der  of  it,  and  then  put  it  in  one  of  the 
ends  of  the  faid  Cornet  or  pipe,  and  lay- 
ing a  cole  of  fire  vpon  it,  at  the  other 
ende  fucke  fo  long,  that  they  fill  their 
bodies  full  of  fmoke,  till  that  it  commeth 
out  of  their  mouth  and  nollrils,  euen  as 
out  of  the  Tonnell  of  a  chimney.  They 
fay  that  this  doth  keepe  them  warme 
and  in  health  :  they  neuer  goe  witliout 
fome  of  it  about  them.  We  ourfehies 
haue  tryed  the  fame  fmoke,  and  hauing 


put  it  in  our  mouthes,  it  feemed  almofl 
as  hot  as  I'epper."  —  yita/ues  Cartier, 
2  r(>j')n;i\  1535;  Ilcxkluvt,  London,  ed. 
1810,  Vol.  111.  p.  276. 

We  may  here  remark  that  the  efcu- 
lents  found  in  cultivation  at  Saco,  beans, 
fquafhes.  pumjjkins,  and  torn,  as  well  as 
the  tobacco,  are  all  American  tropical  or 
fui)tropical  plants,  and  mull  have  been 
tranfmitted  from  tribe  to  tribe,  from 
more  Ibuthern  climates.  The  Indian 
traditions  would  feem  to  indicate  this. 
"They  have  a  tradition,"  fays  Roger 
Williams,  "that  the  Crow  brought  them 
at  tint  an  IiuUaii  Oraine  of  Corne  in  one 
Eare,  and  an  Indian  or  h'rciuh  Beane 
in  another,  from  the  Great  God  Kaii- 
tantomuifs  field  in  the  Southwell  from 
whence  they  hold  came  all  their  Corne 
and  Beanes."  —  Key  to  tlie  Lam^iiaj^e 
of  Amcriea,  London,  1643,  Narraganfett 
Cluli  ed.,  p.  144. 

Seventy  years  before  Champlain, 
Jacques  Cartier  had  found  nearly  the 
fame  vegetables  cultivated  by  the  In- 
dians in  the  valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
He  fays:  "They  digge  their  grounds 
with  certaine  peeces  of  wood,  as  bigge 
as  halfe  a  fword,  on  which  ground  grow- 
eth  their  corne,  which  they  call  Offici  ; 
it  is  as  bigge  as  our  fmall  peafon.  .  .  . 
They  haue  alfo  great  rtore  of  Mufke- 
milions,  Pompions.  Gourds,  Cucumbers, 
Peafon,  and  Beanes  of  euery  colour, 
yet  differing  from  ours."  —  Haklnyt,  Vol. 
III.  p.  276.  For  a  full  hillory  of  thefe 
plants,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the 
Hiflory  of  Plants,  a  learned  and  elabo- 
rate work  now  in  prefs,  by  Charles 
Pickering,  M.D..  of    Bolton. 


Smtr  de  Champlain. 


67 


We  faw  alfo  a  great  many  nuts,  which  are  fniall  and  ha\  e 
feveral  divifions.  There  were  as  yet  none  on  the  trees,  but 
we  found  plenty  under  them,  from  the  preceding  year.  We 
faw  alfo  many  grape-vines,  on  which  there  was  a  remarkably 
fuie  berry,  from  which  we  made  fome  very  good  verjuice. 
We  had  heretofore  feen  grapes  only  on  the  Illand  of  Bacchus, 
dillant  nearly  two  leagues  from  this  river.  Their  permanent 
abode,  the  tillage,  and  the  fine  trees  led  us  to  conclude  that 
the  air  here  is  milder  and  better  than  that  where  we  palTed 
the  winter,  and  at  the  other  places  we  vifited  on  the  coafi:. 
But  I  cannot  believe  that  there  is  not  here  a  confiderablc 
degree  of  cold,  although  it  is  in  latitude  43°  45'.''"  The  for- 
efts  in  the  interior  are  very  thin,  although  abounding  in  oaks, 
beeches,  aflies,  and  elms ;  in  wet  places  there  are  many  wil- 
lows. The  favages  dwell  permanently  in  this  place,  and  liave 
a  large  cabin  furrounded  by  palifades  made  of  rather  large 
trees  placed  by  the  fide  of  each  other,  in  which  they  take 
refuge  when  their  enemies  make  war  upon  them.' '-  They 
cover  their  cabins  with  oak  bark.  This  place  is  very  pleaf- 
ant,  and  as  agreeable  as  any  to  be  feen.  The  river  is  very 
abundant  in  fifli,  and  is  bordered  by  meadows.  At  the 
mouth  there  is  a  fmall  ifland  adapted  for  the  conftrudlion  of 
a  good  fortrefs,  where  one  could  be  in  fecurity. 

On  Sunday,^''^  the  12th  of  the  month,  we  fet  out  from  the 

river 

1"  The  latitude  of  Wood    Ifland  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  ClKuniilain 

the  mouth  of  the  Saco,  where  they  were  fpeaks  of  as  a  fuital)le  location  for  a  for- 

at  anchor,  is  43°  27'  23".  trefs,  is  Ram   Ifland,   and   is   low  and 

1*'^  The  fite  of  this  Indian  fortification  rocky,  and  about  a  hundred  and  fifty 

was  a  rocky  bluff  on  tlie  wellern  fide  of  yards  in  lenj^th. 

the    river,    now    owned    by   Mr.    John        1^^  For  Simday  read  Tucfday. — Vide 

Ward,  where  from  time  to  time  Indian  S]uirtleff''s  Calendar. 
relics  have  been  found.     The  illand  at 


f 


(  „ 


\    \-i 


wwwwiBKaaBapawia 


i^ 


I    III  I 


iH 


68 


Voyages  of 


After  coafling  along    fomc   fix   or   fcvcn 


river  Choliacoct. 
leagues,  a  contrary  wind  arofe,  which  obliged  us  to  anchor 
and  go  afhore,'"  where  we  faw  two  meadows,  each  a  league 
in  length  and  half  a  league  in  breadth.  We  faw  there  two 
favages,  whom  at  firfl  we  took  to  be  the  great  birds  called 
buftards,  to  be  found  in  this  country ;  who,  as  foon  as  they 
caught  fight  of  us,  took  flight  into  the  woods,  and  were  not 
feen  again.  From  Choiiacoet  to  this  place,  where  we  faw 
fome  little  birds,  which  fing  like  blackbirds,  and  are  black 
excepting  the  ends  of  the  wings,  which  are  orange-colored,'^'' 
there  is  a  large  number  of  grape-vines  and  nut-trees.  This 
coaft  is  fandy,  for  the  mofi:  part,  all  the  way  from  Quinibe- 
quy.  This  day  we  returned  two  or  three  leagues  towards 
Choiiacoet,  as  far  as  a  cape  which  we  called  Ifland  Harbor,'*' 
favorable  for  veffels  of  a  hundred  tons,  about  which  are  three 
iflands.  Heading  north-eafl  a  quarter  north,  one  can  enter 
another  harbor''^  near  this  place,  to  which  there  is  no  ap- 
proach, although  there  are  iflands,  except  the  one  where  you 
enter.  At  the  entrance  there  are  fome  dangerous  reefs. 
There  are  in  thefe  iflands  fo  many  red  currants  that  one 
fees  for  the  mofl  part  nothing  elfe,^"**  and  an  infinite  number 

of 

""  This  liarbor  is  Goofe  Fair  Hay, 
from  one  to  two  miles  north-eafl  of  Cape 
I'orpoife,  in  the  middle  of  which  are 
two  lar<je  ledjies,  "  the  dangerous  reefs  " 
to  which  Champlain  refers. 

1*8  This  was  the  common  red  currant 
of  the  gardens,  /\il'es  rubnnii,  which  is 
a  native  of  America.  The  fetid  currant, 
Ribes  projlratum,  is  also  indigenous  to 
this  country.  It  has  a  pale  red  fruit, 
wliich  gives  forth  a  very  difagreeable 
odor.  Joflelyn  refers  to  the  currant 
both  in  his  Voyages  and  in  his  Rarities. 
Harbor.  Tuckerman 


18*  This  landing  was  probably  near 
Wells  Neck,  and  the  meadows  which 
they  faw  were  the  fait  marflies  of  Wells. 

185  The  Red-wing  IJl.ackbird,  Ai^e- 
Icriis  phauiceus,  of  luflrous  black,  with 
the  bend  of  the  wing  red.  They  are 
ftill  abundant  in  the  fame  locality,  and 
indeed  acrofs  the  whole  continent  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean.  —  Vide  Coues^s  Key,  I5of- 
ton,  1872,  p.  156;  BairiVs  Report, 
W.ifliington.  1858,  Part  II.  p.  526. 

1"*  Le  Port  aux  Ijles.  This  Ifland 
Harbor  is   the  prefent  Cape   Porpoife 


I 


Sicur  dc  Champlain. 


69 


of  pijreonH,'™  of  which  wc  took  a  great  quantity.    This  Idand 
Harbor""  is  in  latitude  43'  25'. 

On  the  15th  of  the  month  wc  made  twelve  leagues.  Coaft- 
ing  along,  we  perceived  a  fnioke  on  the  (hore,  which  we 
ap'iiroached  as  near  as  poffible,  but  law  no  favage,  which  led 
us  to  believe  that  they  had  fled.  The  fun  fet,  and  we  could 
find  no  harbor  for  that  night,  fince  the  coafl  was  fiat  and 
fandy.  Keeping  off,  and  heading  fouth,  in  order  to  find  an 
anchorage,  after  proceeding  about  two  leagues,  we  obferved 
a  cape  '^'  on  the  main  land  fouth  a  quarter  fouth-eaft  of  us, 
fome  fix  leagues  difiant.  Two  leagues  to  tne  call  we  faw 
three  or  four  rather  high  iflands,'"  and  on  the  wefl  a  large  bay. 
The  coafl  of  this  bay,  reaching  as  far  as  the  cape,  extends 
inland  from  where  we  were  perhaps  four  leagues.  It  has  a 
breadth  of  two  leagues  from  north  to  fouth,  and  three  at  its 
entrance."^     Not  obferving  any  place  favorable  for  putting 

in, 

Tuckerman  found  it  growing  wild  in  the  nominated   tliem  on  his  map  of   New 

White  Mountains.  Knf^land    Smith  s    Illes.       I  hey   began 

"'^  Tiie   palTenger   pigeon,  ERopiJks  at  a  very  early  date  to  be  called   the 

mi^'nitonus,     formerly     numerous     in  Hies  of  Shoals.     "  Smith's  Illes  are  a 

NeV   England.      Commonly  known  as  heape  togetner,  none  neere  them  agamlt 

the  wikM^igeon.     Wood  fays   they  tly  Accominticus."  -  ^>///// .f^  Dcfoiptum 

in  flocks  of  millions  of  millions.  —  Nexv  of  Xeio  England      Koiige  s  map,  1 77«, 

Eui^land  Pro/pea,  1634,  Prince  Society  has  Hies  of  Slioals.  oh  dcs  Ecoles.     t-or 


ed.,  p.  31. 

"»  Champlain's  latitude  is  lefs  m- 
accurate  than  ufual.  It  is  not  poffible 
to  determine  the  exact  point  at  whicli 
he  took  it.     But  the  latitude  of  Cape 


a  full  defcription  and  hilfory  of  thefe 
illands,  the  reader  is  referred  to  "  Tlie 
Hies  of  Shoals,"  by  John  S.  Jennefs, 
New  York,   1X75. 
"^  Champlain  has  not  been  felicitous 


pOTpoi'fe/accordi'ng To  the'coali'suTvey  in  his  defcription  of  this  bay.     He  prob- 

rhVrts   is  ^x°  -i'  aV  i^Wy  means  to  fay  that  from  the  point 

1"  Cape  Anne  wliere    he   then  was,   off  Little    Boar's 

"2  The  point  at  which  Champlain  firft  Head,   to   the   point  where   it   extends 

faw  Cape   Anne,   and   the    "  ilies   alTez  fartheft  into  the  land,  or  to  the  weft,  it 

hautes,"  the  Hies  of  Slioals,  was  eall  of  appeared  to  be  about  twelve  miles,  and 

Little  Boar's  Mead,  and  tliree  miles  from  that  the  depth  of  the  bay  appeared  to 

thefliore.  Nine  years  afterward,  Captain  be  fix  miles,  and  ei-lit  at  the  point  ot 

John  Smith  vilited  thefe  iilands,  and  de-  greatelt  depth.     As  he  did  not  explore 


wt 


^o 


Voyages  of 


H 


if  I 


H 


in,''"  we  rcfolvL'cl  to  go  to  the  cape  above  mentioned  with 
fliort  fail,  which  occupied  a  jjortioii  of  the  night.  Aj^proach- 
ing  to  wiiere  there  were  fixteen  fathoms  of  water,  we  anchored 
until  daybreak. 

On  the  next  day  we  went  to  the  above-mentioned  cape, 
where  there  are  three  illands'^''  near  the  main  land,  full  of 
wood  of  different  kinds,  as  at  Choliacoet  and  all  along  the 
coaft ;  and  ftill  another  flat  one.  where  there  are  breakers, 
and  which  extends  a  little  farther  out  to  Tea  than  the  others, 
on  which  there  is  no  wood  at  all.  We  named  this  place 
Ifland  Cape,'"'  near  which  we  faw  a  canoe  containing  five  or 
fix  favages,  who  came  out  near  our  barque,  and  then  went 
back  and  danced  on  the  beach.     Sieur  de  Monts  fent  me  on 


the  hiy,  it  is  obvious  thit  he  intended 
to  fpe.ik  of  it  only  as  nie:ifured  by  the 
eye.  No  name  has  l)een  arfii;ned  to  this 
expanfe  of  water  on  our  ina|)S.  It 
wadies  the  coall  of  Hampton.  Sa'ifbury, 
Newhuryport,  Ipfwich,  and  Annifqiiam. 
It  mij^ht  well  be  called  Merrimac  IJay, 
after  the  name  of  the  imjiortant  river 
that  empties  its  waters  into  it,  midw.ay 
between  its  northern  and  fouthern  ex- 
tremities. 

1^*  It  is  to  be  obfcrvcd  that,  ftarting 
from  Cape  Porpoife  Harbor  on  the  morn- 
ins;  of  the  15th  of  July,  they  failed  twelve 
leagues  befov,  the  fail  of  the  night  com- 
menced. Tl  -s  would  bring  them,  allow- 
ing for  the  fniuofities  of  die  (hore,  to  a 
])()int  between  Little  Hoar's  Head  and 
the  Ides  of  Shoals.  In  this  diltance, 
they  had  pafled  the  f.mdy  fliores  of 
Wells  lieach  and  York  Beach  in  Maine, 
and  Fofs's  15each  and  Rye  Beach  in  New 
HamijOiire,  and  Hill  faw  the  white  fands 
of  Hampton  and  Salifbury  Beaches 
ftretching  far  into  the  bay  on  their  right. 
The   excellent  harbor   of    I'ortfmouth, 


fliore 

land-locked  by  numerous  iflands,  had 
been  palTed  unobferved.  A  fail  of 
eighteen  nautical  miles  brought  them  to 
their  anciiorage  at  the  extreme  point  of 
Cajie  Anne. 

"6  Straitlmouth,  Thatcher,  and  Milk 
Ifland.  They  were  named  by  Captain 
John  Smith  the  "Three  Turks'  Heads," 
in  memory  of  the  three  Turks'  heads 
cut  ofl"  by  him  at  the  fiege  of  Caniza, 
by  which  he  acquired  from  Sigifmundus, 
prince  of  Tranfylvania,  their  effigies  in 
his  fhield  for  his  arms.  —  The  true  Trav- 
els, Adventures,  and  Obfervations  of 
Captaine  John  Smith,  London,  1629. 

1*"  What  Champlain  here  calls  "le 
Cap  aux  I  ties,"  Ifland  Cape,  is  Cape 
Anne,  called  Cajie  Tragal)igzanda  by 
Captain  John  Smith,  the  name  of  his 
millrefs,  to  whom  he  was  given  when 
a  prifoner  among  the  Turks.  The  name 
was  changed  by  Prince  Charles,  after- 
ward Charles  I.,  to  Cape  Anne,  in  honor 
of  his  mother,  who  was  Anne  of  Den- 
mark.— Vide  D^'cyiption  of  New  Eng- 
land by  Capt.  John  Smith,  London,  1616. 


ill 


Sicur  dc  Champlain, 


71 


fliotc  to  obfcrve  them,  and  to  give  each  one  of  them  a  knife 
and  fonie  bifcuit,  which  caiifed  them  to  dance  again  better 
tlian  before.  This  over,  I  made  them  underfland,  as  well  as 
I  could,  that  I  defired  them  to  fhow  me  the  courfe  of  the 
Ihore.  After  I  had  drawn  with  a  crayon  the  bay,"^  and  the 
I  Hand  Cape,  where  we  were,  with  the  fame  crayon  they  drew 
the  outline  of  another  bay,""  which  they  reprefertcd  as  very 
large  ;  here  they  placed  fix  pebbles  at  equal  diftaiicoi  apart, 
giving  me  to  underftand  by  this  that  thefe  figns  reprefented 
as  many  chiefs  and  tribes."'''  Then  they  drew  within  the  firfl 
mentioned  bay  a  river  which  we  had  palTed,  which  has  Ihoals 
and  is  very  long.'™'     We  found  in  this  place  a  great  many 


vines,  the 


green 


jrapes  on  which  were  a  little  larger  than 


peas,  alfo  many  nut-trees,  the  nuts  on  which  were  no  larger 
than  mufkct-balls.  The  favages  told  us  that  all  thofe  inhab- 
iting this  country  cultivated  the  land  and  fowed  feeds  like 
the  others,  whom  we  had  before  feen.  The  latitude  of  this 
place  is  43°  and  fome  minutes.'"''  Sailing  half  a  league  far- 
ther. 


1*''  This  was  the  bay  well  of  a  line 
drawn  from  Little  Hoiir's  Head  to  Cape 
Anne,  which  may  well  be  called  Merri- 
niac  Hay. 

">*  MalTachiifetts  ]5ay. 

I''"  It  is  intcrellin^i  to  obfcrve  the 
agreement  of  tlie  iiiin-writinij;  of  this 
fava,<i;e  on  the  jioint  of  Cape  Anne  with 
the  iLatement  of  the  hillorian  Ciookin, 
wlio  in  1656  was  fiiiierintundent  of  In- 
diin  atfairs  in  Mall'iciuifutls,  and  who 
wrote  in  1674.  He  fays:  "Tlieir  chief 
fachem  held  dominion  over  many  other 
petty  governours  ;  as  thofe  of  Weecha- 
gafkas.  Neponfut,  I'unkapaojj,  Nonan- 
tam,  Nalhaway,  and  fome  of  the  Xip- 
muck  i^eople,  as  far  as  I'okomlacuke. 
as   the  old  men  of    MalTachufelts  af- 


firmed." Here  we  have  the  fix  tribes, 
reprefenteil  by  the  pebi)les,  recorfled 
feventy  years  later  as  a  tradition  handed 
down  l)y  the  old  men  of  the  triije. 
Champlain  remarks  further  on,  "  I  ob- 
fcrved  in  tiie  l)ay  all  that  the  favages 
had  dcfcrii)ed  to  me  at  I  (land  Cape." 

I''*  This  was  the  Merrimac  with  its 
flioals  at  the  mouth,  which  they  had 
])aire(I  without  ol)ferving,  having  failed 
from  tlie  offing  near  Little  Haar's  Head 
diredly  to  the  head  of  Cape  .Anne,  dur- 
ing the  darknefs  of  the  prcious  night. 

1"  The  latitude  of  the  Straitfmouth 
I  Hand  Li^^^ht  on  the  extreme  point  of 
Cape  Anne  is  42°  3(7  43".  A  little  call 
of  it,  where  they  prol)al)ly  anchored, 
there  are  now  fixteen  fathoms  of  water. 


I|\ 


72 


Voyages  of 


\im  ' 


thcr,  we  obferved  (cvcral  favages  on  a  rocky  point/''-  who  ran 
along  the  Ihorc,  dancing  as  they  went,  to  their  companions  to 
inform  them  of  our  coming.  After  pointing  out  to  us  the 
diredlion  of  their  abode,  they  made  a  fignal  with  (moke  to 
fliow  us  the  place  of  their  fettlement.  We  anchored  near  a 
little  ifland,'"'^  and  fent  our  canoe  with  knives  and  cakes  for 
the  favages.  From  the  large  number  of  thofe  we  faw,  we 
concluded  that  thefe  places  were  better  inhabited  than  the 
others  we  had  feen. 

After  a  flay  of  feme  two  hours  for  the  fake  of  obferving 
thefe  people,  whofe  canoes  are  made  of  birch  bark,  like  thofe 
of  the  Canadians,  Souriquois,  and  Etechemins,  we  weighed 
anchor  and  fet  fail  with  a  promife  of  fine  weather.  Continu- 
ing our  courfe  to  the  wefl-fouth-wefl,  we  faw  numerous 
illands  on  one  fide  and  the  other.  Having  failed  feven  or 
eight  leagues,  we  anchored  near  an  ifland,''^  whence  we  ob- 
ferved many  fmokes  along  the  fliore,  and  many  favages  run- 
ning up  to  fee  us.  Sieur  de  Monts  fent  two  or  three  men 
in  a  canoe  to  them,  to  whom  he  gave  fome  knives  and  pater- 
nofters  to  prefent  to  them ;  with  which  they  were  greatly 
pleafed,  and  danced  feveral  times  in  acknowledgment.  We 
could  not  afcertain  the  name  of  their  chief,  as  we  did  not 
know  their  language.     All  along  the  fliore  there  is  a  great 

deal 


'•''-  Emmerfon's  Point,  forming  the 
eallorn  extremity  of  Cape  Anne,  twenty 
or  twenty-five  feet  liigli.  fringed  with  a 
wall  of  liare  roclvs  on  the  fea. 


chorage.  But  as  Champlain  defcribes, 
at  the  end  of  this  chapter,  what  mull 
have  been  Charles  River  coming  from 
the  country  of  the  Iroquois  or  the  well, 


i''"  Thatcher's  Ifland,  near  the  point    moit  likely  as  feen  from  his  anchorage, 
jufl  mentioned.     It  is  nearly  half  a  mile    there  can  be  little  doubt  that   he   an- 


long  and  three  hundred  and  fifty  yards 
wiele,  and  about  fifty  feet  high. 

"•■*  It  is  not  poffil)le  to  determine  with 
abfolute  certainty  the  place  of  this  an- 


chored in  Bolfon  Harbor,  near  the 
wellern  limit  of  Noddle's  Illand,  now 
known  as  Eall  Bolton. 


■I 


Sietcr  de  Chav2plain. 


n 


deal  of  land  cleared  up  and  planted  with  Indian  corn.  The 
country  is  very  plcafant  and  agrceahle,  and  there  is  no  lack 
of  fine  trees.  The  canoes  of  thofe  who  live  there  are  made 
of  a  fmgle  piece,  and  are  very  liable  to  turn  over  if  one  is  not 
fkilful  in  managing  them.  We  had  not  before  ieen  any  of 
this  kind.  They  are  made  in  the  following  manner.  After 
cutting  down,  at  a  coft  of  much  labor  and  time,  the  largcft 
and  tallcft  tree  they  can  find,  by  means  of  ffone  hatchets  (for 
they  have  no  others  except  fome  few  which  they  received 
from  the  favaQ:es  on  the  coafts  of  La  Cadie,'"'^  who  obtained 

them 


i''^  The  finiermen  and  fur-traders  had 
vifited  thefe  coalts  from  a  very  early 
period.  —  l'i(fc  an  tea,  note  i8.  From 
them  they  ol)tained  the  axe,  a  molt  im- 
portant implement  in  their  rude  mode 
of  life,  and  it  was  occafionally  found  in 
ufe  among  tribes  far  in  the  interior. 

La  Cadic.  CareleTnefs  or  indifference 
in  re,<;ard  to  the  orthography  of  names 
was  general  in  the  time  of  Chp.mplain. 
The  volumes  written  in  the  vain  attempt 
to  fettle  the  proper  method  of  fpelling 
the  name  of  Shakefpeare,  are  the  fruit 
of  this  indifference.  La  Cadie  did  not 
efcape  this  treatment.  Champlain  writes 
it  Arcadie.  Accadie,  La  Cadie,  Acadie, 
and  L' Acadie ;  while  Lefcarbot  uni- 
forn-;!y,  as  far  as  we  have  obferved,  La 
Cadie.  We  have  alfo  feen  it  written 
L' Arcadie  and  L' Accadie,  and  in  fome, 
if  not  in  all  the  preceding  forms,  with 
a  Latin  termination  in  ia.  It  is  deemed 
important  to  fecurc  uniformity,  and  to 
follow  the  French  form  in  the  tranfla- 
tion  of  a  French  work  rather  than  the 
Latin.  In  this  work,  it  is  rendered  La 
Cadik  in  all  cafes  except  in  quotations. 
The  hiftory  of  the  name  favors  this  form 
rather  than  any  other.  The  comniiffion 
or  charter  given  to  De  Monts  by  Henry 
IV.  in  1603,  a  ilate  paper  or  legal  docu- 


ment, drawn,  we  may  fuppofe.  with  more 
than  ufual  care,  has  La  Cadic,  and  re- 
peats it  four  times  without  variation. 
It  is  a  name  of  Indian  origin,  as  may 
be  inferred  by  its  appearing  in  compo- 
fition  in  fuch  words  as  I'affamacadie, 
Suljcnacadie,  and  Tracadie,  plainly  de- 
rived from  tiie  language  fpoken  by  the 
Souriquois  and  Etechemins.  Fifty-tive 
years  before  it  was  introduced  into 
De  Monts's  commilTion,  it  appeared  writ- 
ten Larcadia  in  Gallaldo's  map  of 
"Terra  Nova  del  Bacalaos,"  in  the 
Italian  tranflation  of  Ptolemy's  (ieogra- 
phy,  by  I'ietro  Andrea  Maltiolo,  printed 
at  Venice  in  1548.  The  coloplion  liears 
date  Odober,  1547.  This  rare  work  is 
in  the  polTelTion  of  Henry  C.  Murphy, 
LL.D.,  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for 
a  very  beautiful  copy  of  the  map.  It 
^•)peared  again  in  1561  on  the  map  of 
Rufcelli,  'vhich  was  borrowed,  as  well 
as  the  whole  map,  from  the  above  work. 
—  I'ide  I\ii/ce/Irs  map  in  !)>-.  A'oa/'s 
Docuiiu'utary  Hijlory  of  Maiiw,  Maine 
Hilt.  Soc,  Portland,  1S69,  p.  233.  On 
this  map,  Larcadia  Itands  on  the  coall  of 
Maine,  in  the  midlt  of  the  valt  territory 
included  in  De  Monts's  grant,  between 
tlie  degrees  of  forty  and  forty-fix  north 
latitude.       It   will   be   obferved,   if  we 

take 


if  , 


» 


t.Hi 


10 


i 


i    :. 


74 


Voyages  of 


them  in  exchange  for  furs),  they  remove  the  bark,  and  round 
off  the  tree  except  on  one  fide,  where  they  apply  fire  gradu- 
ally along  its  entire  length ;  and  fometimes  they  put  red-hot 
pebble-flones  on  top.  When  the  fire  is  too  fierce,  they  extin- 
guifli  it  with  a  little  water,  not  entirely,  but  fo  that  the  edge 
of  the  boat  may  not  be  burnt.  It  being  hollowed  out  as 
much  as  they  wifli,  they  fcrape  it  all  over  with  flones,  which 
they  ufe  inflead  of  knives.  Thefe  flones  refemble  our  mufkct 
flints. 

On  the  next  day,  the  17th  of  the  month,  we  w-eighed 
anchor  to  go  to  a  cape  we  had  feen  the  day  before,  which 
feemed  to  lie  on  our  fouth  fouth-wefl.  This  day  we  were 
able  to  make  only  five  leagues,  and  we  paffed  by  fome 
iflands'^*^  covered  with  wood.  I  obferved  in  the  bay  all  that 
the  favages  had  defcribed  to  me  at  Ifland  Cape.  As  we  con- 
tinued our  courfe,  large  numbers  came  to  us  in  canoes  from 
the  iflands  and  main  land.  We  anchored  a  league  from  a 
cape,  which  we  named  St.  Louis,^"'^  where  we  noticed  fmoke 

in 


take  away  the  Latin  termination,  that 
the  pronunciation  of  this  word  as  it  firfi; 
appeared  in  1547,  would  not  differ  in 
/duikI irom  La  Cadie.  It  feems,  there- 
fore, very  clear  that  the  name  of  the 
territory  ftretching  along  the  coaft  of 
Maine,  we  know  not  how  far  north  or 
fouth,  as  it  was  caught  from  the  lips  of 
the  natives  at  fome  time  anterior  1547, 
was  belt  reprefented  by  La  Cadie,  as 
l)ronounced  by  the  French.  Whether 
I)e  Monts  had  obtained  the  name  of  his 
American  domain  from  thofe  who  had 
recently  vifited  the  coall  and  had  caught 
its  found  from  tlie  natives,  or  whether 
he  had  taken  it  from  this  ancient  map, 
we  nnift  remain  uninformed.  Several 
writers  have  ventured  to  interpret  the 


word,  and  give  us  its  original  meaning. 
The  following  definitions  have  been 
offered :  i.  The  land  of  dogs  ;  2.  Our 
village ;  3.  The  fifli  called  pollock ;  4. 
Place;  5.  Abundance,  We  do  not 
undertake  to  decide  bctvveen  the  dif- 
agreeing  doctors.  Iki,  'f  i-  obvious  to 
remark  that  a  rich  field  in- .  op-;  n  ready 
for  a  noble  harveft  for  any  young 
fcholar  who  has  a  genius  for  philology, 
and  who  is  prepared  to  mai<e  a  life 
work  of  the  Itudy  and  elucidation  of 
the  original  languages  of  North  Amer- 
ica. The  laurels  in  this  field  are  Hill 
to  be  gathered. 

1^"  The  iflands  in  Bofton  Bay. 

^•"  This  attempt  to  land  was  in  Marlh- 
field  near  the  mouth  of  South   River. 

Not 


Sieur  de  Champ  lain. 


75 


in  fcveral  places.  While  in  the  a6l  of  going  there,  our  barque 
grounded  on  a  rock,  where  we  were  in  great  danger,  for,  if 
we  had  not  fpeedily  got  it  off,  it  would  have  overturned  in 
the  fea,  fmce  the  tide  was  falling  all  around,  and  there  were 
five  or  fix  fathoms  of  water.  But  God  prefcrvcd  us,  and  we 
anchored  near  the  above-named  cape,  when  there  come  to  us 
fifteen  or  fixteen  canoes  of  favagcs.  In  fomc  of  them  tlicre 
were  fifteen  or  fixteen,  who  began  to  manifefi  great  figns  of 
joy,  and  made  various  harangues,  which  we  could  not  in  the 
leafl;  underfland.  Sieur  de  Monts  fent  three  or  four  men  on 
fliore  in  our  canoe,  not  only  to  get  water,  but  to  fee  their 
chief,  whofe  name  was  Honabetha.  The  latter  had  a  num- 
ber of  knives  and  other  trifles,  which  Sieur  de  Monts  gave 
him,  when  he  came  alongfide  to  fee  us,  together  with  fome 
of  his  companions,  who  were  prefent  both  along  the  fliore 
and  in  their  canoes.  We  received  the  chief  very  cordially, 
and  made  him  welcome;  who,  after  remaining  fome  time, 
went  back.  Thofe  whom  we  had  fent  to  them  brought  us 
fome  little  fquaflies  as  big  as  the  fift,  which  we  ate  as  a  falad, 
like  cucumbers,  and  which  we  found  very  good.  They 
brought  alfo  fome  purflane,^^  which  grows  in  large  quantities 
among  the  Indian  corn,  and  of  which  they  make  no  more 
account  than  of  weeds.  We  law  here  a  great  many  little 
houfes,  fcattered  over  the  fields  where  they  plant  their  Indian 

corn. 

There 

Not  fucceeding,  they  failed  forward  a  corn  in  New  England,  and  is  regarded 

league,   and   anchored  at   Brant  Point,  with  no  more  interelt  now  than  in  1605. 

which    they    named    the    Cape    of   St.  It  is  a  tropical  plant,   and  was  intro- 

Louis.  duccd  by  the  Indians  probably  by  acci- 

158  This  purflane,  Portidaca  olcracca,  dent  with  the  feeds  of  tobacco'  or  other 

dill  grows  vigoroufly  among  the  Indian  plants. 


I  i 


i( 


Hf' 


ii 

llii 


76 


Voyages  of 


There  is,  moreover,  in  this  bay  a  very  broad  river,  which 
we  named  River  du  Guafl.''''''  It  ftretches,  as  it  feemed  to  me, 
towards  the  Iroquois,  a  nation  in  open  warfare  with  the 
Montagnais,  who  Hve  on  the  great  river  St.  Lawrence. 


i 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

Continuation   of   the    Discovkries    along   the  Coast  of  the  Almou- 

CHIQUOIS,   and   what   WE   OHSERVED    IN    DETAIL. 

HE  next  day  we  doubled  Cap  St.  Louis,^*"*  fo 
named  by  Sieur  de  Monts,  a  land  rather  low, 
and  in  latitude  42°  45'."'^  The  fame  day  we 
failed  two  Ic  igues  along  a  fandy  coafi;,  as  we 
pafled  along  which  we  faw  a  great  many  cabins 
and  gardens.     The  wind  being  contrary,  we  entered  a  little 


159  Jiere  at  the  end  of  the  chapter 
Chamijlain  leenis  to  be  reminded  that 
he  liad  omitted  to  mention  the  river  of 
which  lie  had  learned,  and  had  probably 
feen  in  the  bay.  This  was  Ciiarles 
River.  From  the  wcflern  lide  of  Nod- 
dle'.s  I  Hand,  or  Eaft  Bollon,  wliere  they 
were  probably  at  anchor,  it  appciired  at 
its  confluence  with  tiie  Myflic  River  to 
come  from  the  wefl,  or  the  country  of 
the  Iroquois.  By  reference  to  Cham- 
plain's  lar^e  map  of  1612,  this  river  will 
be  clearly  identified  as  Charles  River,  in 
conneClion  with  Hollon  \V\y  and  its  nu- 
merous iflands.  On  that  map  it  is  rep- 
refented  as  a  long  river  flowing  from 


the  weft.     This  defcription  of  the  river    generally  prevails 


bay 

have  reprefented  to  him  that  it  was 
fmall,  winding  ia  its  courfe,  and  that  it 
came  from  the  fouth.  We  infer,  there- 
fore, that  he  not  only  faw  it  himfelf, 
but  probably  from  the  deck  of  the  little 
French  barque,  as  it  was  riding  at 
anchor  in  our  harbor  near  Eaft  lioflon, 
where  Charles  River,  augmented  by  the 
tide,  flows  into  the  harbor  from  the 
welt,  in  a  ftrong,  broad,  aeep  current. 
They  named  it  in  honor  of  Pierre  du 
Cuaft,  Sieur  de  Monts.  the  commander 
of  this  cxoedition.  Champlain  writes 
the  nam-  "du  Cas ; "  Ue  Laet  has 
"de  Ciua ; "  while  Charlevoix  writes 
"du  Ciuaft."     This  latter  orthography 


by  Champlain  was  probably  f''>m  per- 
fonal  oblervation.  Had  he  obtained  his 
information  from  the  Indiin.s,  they 
wou'd  not  have  told  him  that  it  was 
broad  or  that  it  came  from  the  we  I.  for 
fuch  are  not  the  facts  ;  out  they  would 


1™  It  will  be  obferved  that,  after  doub- 
ling this  cape,  they  failed  two  leagues, 
and  then  entered  Plymouth  Harbor,  and 
confequently  thi^  cape  murt  have  beea 
what  is  now  known  as  lirant  Point. 

1"  The  latitude  is  42°  5', 


^iW.- 


M 


1 


I 


Sieur  de  Champlain. 


77 


bay  to  await  a  time  favorable  for  proceeding.  There  came 
to  lis  two  or  three  canoes,  which  had  jufl;  been  fifliing  for 
cod  and  other  fifli,  which  are  found  there  in  large  numbers. 
Thefe  they  catch  with  hooks  made  of  a  piece  of  wood,  to 
which  they  attach  a  bone  in  the  ^lape  of  a  fpear,  and  faflen 
it  very  fecurcly.  The  whole  has  a  fang-fliape,  and  the  line 
attached  to  it  is  made  out  of  the  bark  of  a  tree.  They  gave 
me  one  of  their  hooks,  which  I  took  as  a  curiofity.  In  it  the 
bone  was  faftened  on  by  hemp,  like  that  in  France,  as  it 
feemed  to  me,  and  they  told  me  that  they  gathered  this  plant 
without  being  obliged  to  cultivate  it;  and  indicated  that  it 
grew  to  the  height  of  four  or  five  feet.^'"'^  This  canoe  went 
back  on  fliore  to  give  notice  to  their  fellow  inhabitants,  who 
caufed  columns  of  fmoke  to  arife  on  our  account.  We  faw 
eighteen  or  twenty  favages,  who  came  to  the  fliore  and  began 
to  dance.  Our  ca.ioe  landed  in  order  to  give  them  fome 
bagatelles,  at  which  they  were  greatly  pleafed.  Some  of 
them  came  to  us  and  begged  us  to  go  to  their  river.  We 
weighed  anchor  to  do  fo,  but  were  unable  to  enter  on  account 
of  the  fmall  amount  of  water,  it  being  low  tide,  and  were 
accordingly  obliged  to  anchor  at  the  mouth.  I  went  afliore, 
where  I  faw  many  others,  who  received  us  very  cordially.  I 
made  alfo  -'.n  examination  of  the  river,  but  faw  only  an  arm 
of  water  extending  a  fliort  diftance  inland,  where  the  land  is 

only 


i''^  This  was  plainly  our  Indian  hemp, 
Afclepias  incarnata.  "  The  fibres  of 
the  bark  are  ftrons;,  and  capable  of  beinc; 
wrought  into  a  fine  foft  thread  ;  but  it 
is  very  difficult  to  feparate  ti.e  bark  from 
the  ftalk.  It  is  faid  to  have  been  ufed 
by  the  Indians  for  bow-ftrings."  —  Vide 
Cutler  in  Memoirs  of  the  American 


Academy.  Vol.  I.  p.  424.  It  is  the 
Swamp  Milkweed  of  Gray,  and  grows  in 
wet  grounds.  One  variety  is  common 
in  New  England.  The  Pilgrims  found 
at  Plymouth  "an  excellent  ftrong  kind 
of  Flaxe  and  Hempe." — Vide  MourCs 
Relation^  Dexter's  ed.,  p.  62. 


' 


M 


■? 


''k 


■  iP 


1  > 


I 


78 


Voyages  of 


only  in  part  cleared  up.  Running  into  this  is  merely  a  brook 
not  deep  enough  for  boats  except  at  full  tide.  The  circuit 
of  the  bay  is  about  a  league.  On  one  fide  of  the  entrance 
to  this  bay  there  is  a  point  which  is  alniofl  an  ifland,  covered 
with  wood,  principally  pines,  and  adjoins  fand-banks,  which 
arc  very  extenfive.  On  the  other  fide,  the  land  is  high. 
There  are  two  illets  in  this  bay,  ^vhich  are  not  feen  until  one 
has  entered,  and  around  which  it  is  alniofl  entirely  dry  at  low 
tide.  This  place  is  very  conspicuous  from  the  fea,  for  the 
coafl:  is  very  low,  excepting  the  cape  at  the  entrance  to  the 
bay.     We  named  it  the   Port  du   Cap  St.  Louis,'"^   diflant 

two 


i;   ^i 


-'I 


Chami'lain's  Explanation  ok  the  accompanying  Map. 

Port  St.  Louis. 
The  figures  indkotc  /iithoms  of  water. 

A.  Indicates  tlie  place  where  velTels  lie.  B.  The  channel.  C.  Two  iflands.^ 
D.  Sandy  downs. "-^  K.  Slioals.  F.  Cabins  where  the  ("avages  till  the  ground. 
G.  Plact-  where  we  beaclied  our  barque.  H.  Land  having  the  appearance  of 
an  ifland,  covered  with  wood  and  adjoining  the  fandy  downs. ^  /.  A  high  prom- 
ontory which  may  be  feen  four  or  five  leagues  at  fea.* 

Notes,  (i)  Clark's  Uland  is  now  the  fole  reprefentative  of  the  two  figured 
by  Champlain  in  1605.  Tlie  aftion  of  the  waves  has  either  united  the  two,  or 
fwept  one  of  them  away.  It  was  named  after  Clark,  the  mailer's  mate  of  the  "  May 
Flower,"  who  was  the  firll  to  Hep  on  fliore,  when  the  party  of  Pilgrims,  fent  out 
from  Cape  Cod  Harbor  to  felecl  a  habitation,  landed  on  this  iiland,  and  pafTed  the 
night  of  the  Qth  of  December,  O.S.  i6jo.  Vide  Morton's  Memorial,  1669,  Ply- 
mouth Ed.  1S26.  p.  35  :  Young's  Chronicles,  p.  160;  Bradford's  His.  Plym.  Plan- 
tation. \).  87.  This  delineation  removes  all  doubt  aS  to  the  miffing  iiland  in 
I'lymouth  Harbor,  and  Ihows  the  incorrectnefs  of  the  theory  as  to  its  being 
Sa'quifli  Head,  fuggelled  in  a  note  in  Young's  Chronicles,  p.  64.  Vide  also 
Mourt's  Relation,"  Dexter's  ed.,  note  197.  (2)  Saqulfli  Neck.  (3)  Saquilh 
Head,  which  feems  to  have  been  fomewhat  changed  fince  the  time  of  Champlain. 
Compare  Coalt  Survey  Chart  of  Plymouth  Harbor,  1857.     (4)   Manomet  Bluff. 


163  Port  du  Cap  St.  Louis.    From  the    plain,  the  map  in  his  edition  of  1613, 
drawing  of  this  Harbor  left  by  Cham-    and  alfo  that  of  the  editicrv  of  1632,  it 

is 


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1  ;  • '.   M  u  i ;  1 1 
;l  an  III, w  1*1,  V   ,'.'. nvi 


.VUli 


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Sicur  de  Cluiviplain. 


79 


two  leagues  from  the  above  cape,  and  ten  from  tlie  I  (land 
Cape.     It  is  in  about  the  fame  latitude  as  Cap   St.  Louis. 

On  the  19th  of  the  month,  we  fet  out  from  this  place. 
Coafling  along  in  a  foutherly  direction,  we  failed  four  or  five 
leagues,  and  palled  near  a  rock  on  a  level  with  the  lurface  of 
the  water.  As  we  continued  our  courfe,  we  faw  Ibme  land 
which  fecmed  to  us  to  be  iflands,  but  as  we  came  nearer  we 
found  it  to  be  the  main  land,  lying  to  the  north-nortii-wefl:  of 
us,  and  that  it  was  the  cape  of  a  large  bay,""  containing  more 
than  eighteen  or  nineteen  leagues  in  circuit,  in  j  which  we 
had  run  fo  far  that  we  had  to  wear  off  on  the  other  tack  in 
order  to  double  the  cape  which  we  had  feen.  The  latter  we 
named  Cap  Blanc,"""'  fince    it   contained   fands   and   downs 

which 

is  plain  that  the  "Port  du  Cap  St.  faw  it  burn  'for  a  mile  fpace.'"  —  De 
Louis "  is  Plymouth  Harbor,  where  Cojla.  A  fkirmifli  of  fome  ferioufnefs 
anchored  the  "  Maytiower"  a  little  more  occurred  with  Smith's  party.  "After 
tiian  fifteen  years  later  than  this,  much  kindnelTe  v])on  a  fmall  occafion, 
freighted  with  the  firfl  permanent  Eng-  wee  fought  alio  with  fortie  or  fiftie  of 
lilh  colony  ellal)liflied  in  New  England,  thofe  :  tliough  lome  were  hurl,  and  fome 
commonly  known  as  the  Pilgrims.  'I'he  ilaine.  yet  witliin  an  hour  after  they 
Indian  name  of  the  harbor,  according  became  friends."  —  Sinitii' s  New  Efi^^- 
to  Captain  John  Smith,  who  vifited  it  Lind,  Hollon,  ed.  1S65,  p.  45. 
in  1614,  was  Accomack.  He  gave  it,  ^'■'■*  Cape  Cod  I'.ay. 
by  direction  of  Prince  Charles,  the 
name  of  Plymouth.  More  recent  in- 
velligations  point  to  this  iiarbor  as  the 
one  vilited  by  Martin  Pring  in  1603. — 
I'ide  Paper  by  the  Rev  lienj.  F.  De 
Cojla,  before  the  New  England  His. 
Gen.  Society,  Nov.  7,  1877,"  New  Eng- 
land His.  and  Gen.  Regirter,  Vol. 
XXXII.    p.   79. 

The  interview  of  the  French  with 
the  natives  was  brief,  but  courteous 
and  friendly  on  both  fides.     The  Eng- 


lois  Tliey  named  it  "  le  Cap  Blanc," 
the  White  Cape,  from  its  white  appear- 
ance, while  Bartholomew  Gofnold,  three 
years  i)efore,  had  named  it  Cape  Cod 
from  the  multitude  of  codfith  near  its 
fliores.  Captain  John  Smith  called  it 
Cape  James.  All  the  early  navigaturs 
who  pafied  along  our  Atlantic  coalt  feem 
to  have  feen  the  headland  of  Cape  Cod. 
It  is  well  defined  on  Juan  de  la  Cofa's 
map  of  1500,  although  no  name  is  given 
to  it.      On  Kihero's  map  of  1529  it  is 


liih  vifits  were  interruj^ted  by  more  or  called  C.  de  arenas.      On  the   maj)  of 

lefs  holtility.     "  When  Pring  was  about  Nic.  Vallard  de  Dieppe  of  1543,   it  is 

ready  to  leave,  the  Indians  Ijecame  i  of-  called  C.  de  Croi.v. 
tile  and  fet  the  woods  on  fire,  and  he 


n 


1 

i 
1, 

i'l'l 

i 

i 


'  !•! 


! 
■J 


i> 


\ 


8o 


Voyages  of 


1 

i 

Hi 


wliich  had  a  white  appearance.  A  favorable  wind  was  of 
great  affillance  to  us  liere,  for  otherwife  we  Ihould  have  been 
in  danger  of  being  driven  upon  the  coafl.  This  Ijay  is  very 
fafe,  provided  the  land  be  not  apjjroached  nearer  than  a  good 
league,  there  being  no  iflands  nor  rocks  except  that  juft 
mentioned,  which  is  near  a  river  that  extends  fome  diflance 
inland,  which  we  named  St.  Suzanne  du  Cap  Blanc,"'"  whence 
acrofs  to  Cap  St.  Louis  the  diftance  is  ten  leagues.  Cap 
Blanc  is  a  point  of  fand,  which  bends  around  towards  the 
fouth  fome  fix  leagues.  This  coafl;  is  rather  high,  and  con- 
fifls  of  fand,  which  is  very  confpicuous  as  one  comes  from 
the  fea.  At  a  diflance  of  fome  fifteen  or  eiditeen  leaq-ues 
from  land,  the  depth  of  the  water  is  thirty,  forty,  and  fifty 
fathoms,  but  only  ten  on  nearing  the  "'■ore,  which  is  unob- 
fl:ru(5led.  There  is  a  large  extent  of  (  country  along  the 
fliore  before  reaching  the  woods,  which  are  very  attractive 
and  beautiful.  We  anchored  off  the  coafl,  and  faw  fome 
fa\ages,  towards  whom  four  of  our  company  proceeded. 
Making  their  way  upon  a  fand-bank,  they  obferved  fomething 
like  a  bay,  and  cabins  bordering  it  on  all  fides.  When  they 
were  about  a  leafjjue  and  a  half  from  us,  there  came  to  them 
a  favage  dancing  all  over,  as  they  expreffed  it.    He  had  come 

down 


io«  Wellfleet  Harbor.  It  may  be  ob- 
ferved that  a  little  farther  back  Cham- 
plain  fays  that,  having  failed  along  in  a 
ibuthcrly  diredlion  four  or  five  leagues, 
they  were  at  a  place  where  there  was  a 
"rock  on  a  level  with  the  furface  of  the 
water,"  and  tiiat  they  faw  lying  north- 
nortli-wert  of  them  Caj)  Blanc,  that  is. 
Cape  Cod  ;  he  now  fays  that  the  "rock" 
is  near  a  river,  which  they  named  St. 
Suzanne  du  Cap  iilanc,  and  that  from 
it  to  Cap  St.  Louis  the  diftance  is  ten 


leagues.  Now,  as  the  diflance  acrofs 
to  Jirant  Point,  or  Cap  St.  Louis,  from 
Welltiect  Haroor,  is  ten  leagues,  and  as 
Cap  Blanc  or  Cape  Cod  is  north-north- 
weft  of  it,  it  is  plain  that  Welltleet  Har- 
bor or  Herring  River,  which  flows  into 
it,  was  the  river  which  they  named  St. 
Suzanne  du  Cap  Blanc,  and  that  the 
"  rock  on  a  level  with  the  water "  was 
one  of  the  feveral  to  be  found  near  the 
entrance  of  Welltleet  Bay.  It  may  have 
been  the  noted  Bay  Rock  or  Blue  Rock. 


Sieur  de  Champlain. 


cSl 


down  from  the  liigh  (horc,  but  turned  about  lliortl)  after  to 
inform  his  fellow  inhabitatits  of  our  arrival. 

The  next  day,  the  20th  of  the  month,  we  went  to  the  place 
which  our  men  had  {\z<i\\  and  which  we  found  a  very  danger- 
ous harbor  in  confequence  of  the  fhoals  and  banks,  where  we 
faw  breakers  in  all  diretflions.  It  was  almoll  low  tide  when 
we  entered,  and  there  were  only  four  feet  of  water  in  the 
northern  palTage ;  at  high  tide,  there  are  two  fathoms.  After 
we  had  entered,  we  found  the  place  very  I'pacious,  being  j)er- 
haps  three  or  four  leagues  in  circuit,  entirely  furrounded  by 
little  houies,  around  each  one  of  which  there  was  as  much 
land  as  the  occupant  needed  for  his  fupport.  A  fmall  river 
enters  here,  which  is  very  pretty,  and  in  which  at  low  tide 
there  are  fome  three  and  a  half  feet  of  water.  There  are  alfo 
two  or  three  brooks  bordered  by  meadows.  It  would  be  a 
very  fine  place,  if  the  harbor  were  good.  I  took  the  altitude, 
and  found  the  latitude  42°,  and  the  deflexion  of  the  magnetic 
needle  18°  40'.  Many  favagcs,  men  and  women,  vifited  us, 
and  ran  up  on  all  fides  dancing.  We  named  this  place  Port 
de  Mallebarre.'" 

The  next  day,  the  2ifl  of  the  month,  Sieur  de  I/Ionts 
determined  to  go  and  fee  their  habitation.  Nine  or  ten  of 
us  accompanied  him  with  our  arms ;  the  rcfl  remained  to 
guard  the  barque.  We  went  about  a  league  along  the  coaft. 
Before  reaching  their  cabins,  we  entered  a  field  planted  with 

Indian 

*"  Port  de  Mallebarre,  Naufet  Har-  fouth,  and  this  has  apparently  chanjjed 

bor,  in  latitude  41°  48'.     Uy  comparing;  its  interior  cliannel,  and  the  whole  form 

Champlain's  map  of  the  harbor,  it  will  of  tiie  bay.     The  name  itfelf  has  drifted 

be   feen  that   important   changes   have  away  with  the  fands.  and  feelily  clings 

taken  place  fince  1605.     The  entrance  to  the  extremity  of  Monomoy  Point  at 

has  receded  a  mile  or  more  towards  tlie  the  heel  of  the  Cape. 

II 


'4 


Ilh 


82 


Voyages  of 


Indian  corn  in  tlie  manner  before  defcribed.  The  corn  was 
in  flower,  and  five  and  a  half  feet  high.  There  was  fome  lefs 
advanced,  which  they  plant  later.  W'e  faw  many  Brazilian 
beans,  and  many  fquaflies  of  various  fizes,  very  good  for  eat- 
ing ;  fome  tobacco,  and  roots  which  they  cultivate,  the  latter 
havincf  the  tafte  of  an  artichoke.  The  woods  are  filled  with 
oaks,  nut-trees,  and  beautiful  C3'preffes,''^  which  arc  of  a  red- 
diih  color  and  have  a  very  pleafant  odor.  There  were  alfo 
feveral  fields  entirely  uncultivated,  the  land  being  allowed  to 

remain 


!  71 


Ciiami'lain's   Explanation  of  the  accompanying  Map. 

Malleharrb. 
The  fissures  indicate  fathoms  0/  water. 

A.  The  two  entrances  to  the  harbor.  B.  Sandy  downs  wlicre  the  favages 
killed  a  failor  belonging  to  the  barque  of  Sieur  de  Monts.  C.  Places  in  the  har- 
bor where  the  barque  of  Sieur  de  Monts  was.  D.  Spring  on  the  fliore  of  the  har- 
bor. E.  A  river  flowing  into  the  harbor.  F.  A  brook.  G.  A  fmall  river  where 
quantities  of  fifli  are  caught.  //.  Sandy  downs  with  low  flirubs  and  many  vines. 
/.  Ifland  at  the  point  of  the  downs.  L.  Houfes  and  dwelling-places  of  the  fav- 
ages that  till  the  land.  M.  Shoals  and  fand-banks  at  the  entrance  and  infide  of 
the  harbor.  O.  Sandy  downs.  P.  Sea-coaft.  q.  Barque  of  Sieur  de  Poutrin- 
court,  when  he  vifited  the  place  two  years  after  Sieur  de  Monts.  R.  Landing  of 
the  party  of  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt. 

NoTi:s.  A  comparifon  of  this  map  with  the  Coaft  Survey  Charts  will  Ihow 
very  great  changes  in  tliis  liarbor  llnce  the  days  of  Champlain.  Not  only  has 
tiic  nioutli  of  the  liay  receded  towards  the  fouth.  but  this  receffion  a])pears  to 
have  left  entirely  dry  much  of  the  area  which  was  flooded  in  1C05.  Under  refer- 
ence q.  on  the  above  map,  it  is  intimated  that  De  Poutrincourt's  vilit  was  two 
years  after  that  of  De  Monts.  It  was  more  than  one,  and  was  the  fecond  year 
after,  but  not,  ftriclly  fpeaking,  "  two  years  after." 


1"^  Not  ftri(?tly  a  cyprefs,  but  ratlier  a  American  origin  ;  and  confequently  it 
juniper,  the  Savin,  or  red  cedar,  Jiiiii-  could  not  be  truly  characterized  by  any 
penis  Virginiaiia,  a  tree  of  exclufive'y    name  then  known  to  Champlain. 


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Sieicr  de  Chaviplain, 


83 


remain  fallow.     When  they  wifli  to  plant  it,  they  fet  fire  to 
the  weeds,  and  then  work  it  over  witli  their  wooden  fpades. 
Their  cabins  ure  round,  and  covered  with  heavy  thatch  made 
of  reeds.    In  the  roof  there  is  an  opening  of  about  a  foot  and 
a  half,  whence  the  fmoke  from  the  fire  ])alTes  out.    We  a(kcd 
them  if  they  had  their  permanent  abode   in  this  place,  and 
whether  there  was  much  fnow.    But  we  were  unable  to  afcer- 
tain  this  fully  from  them,  not  underrtanding  their  language, 
although  they  made   an  attempt   to  inform   us   by  figns,  by 
taking  fome  fand  in  their  hands,  fpreading  it  out  over  the 
ground,  and  indicating  that  it  was  of  the  color  of  our  collars, 
and  that  it  reached  the  depth  of  a  foot.     Others  made  figns 
that  there  was  lefs,  and  gave  us  to  underlland  alfo  that'the 
harbor  never  froze  ;  but  we  were  unable  to  alcertain  whether 
the  fnow  lafted  long.     I  conclude,  however,  that  this  region 
is   of   moderate    temperature,    and    the    winter   not    fe\ere. 
While  we  were  there,  there  was  a  north-eaft  ftorm,  which 
lafled  four  days;  the  fky  being  fo  overcafl  that  the  fun  hardly 
flione  at  all.     It  was  very  cold,  and  we  were  obliged  to  put 
on  our  great-coats,  which  we  had  entirely  left  off.     Yet   I 
think  the  cold  was  accidental,  as  it  is  often  experienced  elfe- 
where  out  of  feafon. 

On  the  23d  of  July,  four  or  five  feamen  having  gone  on 
fliore  with  fome  kettles  to  get  frefli  water,  which  was  to  be 
found  in  one  of  the  fand-banks  a  fiiort  diftance  from  our 
barque,  fome  of  the  favages,  coveting  them,  watched  the  time 
when  our  men  went  to  the  fpring,  and  then  feized  one  out  of 
the  hands  of  a  failor,  who  was  the  firfl  to  dip,  and  who  had 
no  weapons.  One  of  his  companions,  fiarting  to  run  after 
him,  foon  returned,  as  he  could  not  catch  him,  fince  he  ran 

much 


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tMi- 


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I 


I 


84 


Voyages  of 


much  fader  than  himfelf.  The  other  favages,  of  whom  there 
were  a  large  number,  feeing  our  Tailors  running  to  our  barque, 
and  at  the  fame  time  fliouting  to  us  to  fire  at  them,  took  to 
flight.  At  the  time  there  were  fome  of  them  in  our  barque, 
who  threw  themfelves  into  the  fea,  only  one  of  whom  we 
were  able  to  feize.  Thofe  on  the  land  who  had  taken  to 
flight,  feeing  them  fwimming,  returned  ftraight  to  the  failor 
from  whom  they  had  taken  away  the  kettle,  hurled  fev- 
eral  arrows  at  him  from  behind,  and  brought  him  down. 
Seeing  this,  they  ran  at  once  to  him,  and  defpatched  him 
with  their  knives.  Meanwhile,  hafle  was  made  to  go  on 
fliore,  and  mufkets  were  fired  from  our  barque  :  mine,  burfl;- 
ing  in  my  hands,  came  near  killing  me.  The  favages,  hearing 
this  difcharge  of  fire-arms,  took  to  flight,  and  with  redoubled 
fpeed  when  they  faw  that  we  had  landed,  for  they  were  afraid 
when  they  faw  us  running  after  them.  There  WaS  no  likeli- 
hood of  our  catching  them,  for  they  are  as  fwift  as  horfes. 
We  broufijht  in  the  murdered  man,  and  he  was  buried  fome 
hours  later.  Meanwhile,  we  kept  the  prifoner  bound  by  the 
feet  and  hands  on  board  of  our  barque,  fearing  tl  at  he  might 
efcape.  But  Sicur  de  Monts  refolved  to  let  hin  go,  being 
perfuaded  that  he  was  not  to  blame,  and  that  he  had  no  pre- 
vious knowledge  of  what  had  tranfpired,  as  alfo  thofe  who,  at 
the  time,  were  in  and  about  our  barque.  Some  hours  later 
there  came  fome  favages  to  us,  to  excufe  themfelves,  indi- 
cating by  figns  and  demonftrations  that  it  was  not  they  who 
had  committed  this  malicious  a6t,  but  others  farther  off  in 
the  interior.  We  did  not  wifh  to  harm  them,  alth  ugh  it 
was  in  our  power  to  avenge  ourfelves. 

All  thefe  favages  from  the  Ifland  Cape  wear  neither  robes 

nor 


Sietir  cie  Chainplain. 


8s 


nor  furs,  except  very  rarely :  moreover,  their  robes  are  made 
of  gralTes  and  liemp,  fcarcely  covering  tlie  body,  and  coming 
down  only  to  their  thighs.  They  have  only  the  fexual  parts 
concealed  with  a  Tmall  piece  of  leather;  fo  likewife  the 
women,  with  whom  it  comes  down  a  little  lower  behind  than 
with  the  men,  all  the  refl  of  the  body  being  naked.  When- 
ever the  women  came  to  fee  us,  they  wore  robes  which  were 
open  in  front.  The  men  cut  off  the  hair  on  the  top  of  the 
head  like  thofe  at  the  river  Choiiacoet.  I  faw,  among  other 
things,  a  girl  with  her  hair  very  neatly  dreffed,  with  a  fkin 
colored  red,  and  bordered  on  the  upper  part  with  little  shell- 
beads.  A  part  of  her  hair  hung  down  behind,  the  reft 
being  braided  in  various  ways.  Thefe  people  paint  the  face 
red,  black,  and  yellow.  They  have  fcarcely  any  beard,  and 
tear  it  out  as  fafl:  as  it  grows.  Their  bodies  are  well-propor- 
tioned. I  cannot  tell  what  government  they  have,  but  I 
think  that  in  this  refpedl  they  refemble  their  neighbors,  who 
have  none  at  all.  They  know  not  how  to  worfliip  or  pray ; 
yet,  like  the  other  favages,  they  have  fome  fuperfliticns,  which 
I  fliall  defcribe  ni  their  place.  As  for  weapons,  they  have 
only  pikes,  clubs,  bows  and  arrows.  It  would  feem  from 
their  appearance  that  they  have  a  good  difpofition,  better 
than  thofe  of  the  north,  but  they  are  all  in  fa{5l  of  no  great 
worth.  Even  a  flight  intercourfe  with  them  gives  you  at 
once  a  knowledge  of  them.  They  are  great  thieves  and,  if 
they  cannot  lay  hold  of  any  thing  with  their  hands,  they  try 
tc  do  fo  with  their  feet,  as  we  have  oftentimes  learned  by 
experience.  I  am  of  opinion  that,  if  they  had  any  thing  to 
exchange  with  us,  they  would  not  give  themfelves  to  thiev- 
ing. They  bartered  away  to  us  their  bows,  arrows,  and  quiv- 
ers. 


'  i 


'    !| 


tl   , 


^■W: 


1,1 


I     :'< 


V;' 


86 


Voyages  of 


Hi 


111 


11 


'f\ 


I 


ers,  for  pins  and  1)uttons ;  and  if  they  had  had  any  thing 
clfc  bct^^LT  they  would  have  done  the  fame  with  it.  It  is 
necelTary  to  be  on  one's  guard  againfl  this  people,  and  live  in 
a  Rate  of  diflrufl;  of  them,  yet  without  letting  them  ))crccive 
it.  They  gave  us  a  large  cjuantity  of  tobacco,  which  they  dry 
and  then  reduce  to  powder.'"''  When  they  cat  Indian  corn, 
they  boil  it  in  earthen  jjots,  which  they  make  in  a  way  dif- 
ferent from  ours.'""  They  bray  it  alio  in  wooden  mortars  and 
reduce  it  to  flour,  of  which  they  then  make  cakes,  like  the 
Indians  of  Peru. 

In  this  place  and  along  the  whole  coafl:  from  Quinibequy, 
there  are  a  great  many  figiienocs^^^  which  is  a  filh  with  a 

fliell 


1™  The  method  of  prepnrinc;  tobacco 
here  for  fmokinji  was  pr()l).ibly  not  dif- 
ferent from  tliat  of  the  Indian  tribes  in 
Canada.  Amon;j;  the  Huron  antiquities 
in  the  Mufeuni  at  tlie  Univerfity  Laval 
are  pipes  wliich  were  found  already 
filled  with  tobacco,  fo  prepared  as  to 
refemble  our  fine-cut  tobacco.  —  Vide 
Lai'erdicre  in  loco. 

1""  The  followinjj;  defcription  of  the 
Indian  pottery,  and  the  method  of  its 
manufacture  by  tlieir  women,  as  quoted 
l)y  Laverdi^re  from  Satjard's  lliltory  of 
Canada,  who  wrote  in  1636,  will  be  in- 
teredinti  to  the  anticjuary,  and  will  illuf- 
trale  what  Champlain  means  by  "a  way 
different  from  ours  :  "  — 

"They  are  Ikiiful  in  making  good 
earthen  pots,  which  they  harden  very 
well  on  the  hearth,  and  which  are  fo 
(Irong  that  they  do  not.  like  our  own, 
break  over  the  fire  when  having  no 
water  in  them.  15ut  they  cannot  fuftain 
campnefs  nor  cold  water  fo  long  as  our 
own.  lince  they  become  l)rittle  and  l)reak 
at  tiie  leart  Ihock  given  them  ;  otiierwife 
they  lall  very  well.  The  favages  make 
them  by  taking  fome  earth  of  the  right 


kind,  which  they  clean  and  knead  well 
in  their  hands,  mixing  with  it,  on  what 
principle  I  know  not,  a  fmall  quantity 
of  greafe.  Then  making  the  mafs  into 
the  (hape  of  a  ball,  tliey  make  an  inden- 
tation in  the  middle  01  it  with  the  fifl, 
which  they  make  continually  larger  by 
itriking  repeatedly  on  the  outfide  with  a 
little  wooden  pacldle  as  much  as  is  nec- 
elfary  to  complete  it.  Thefe  veflels  are 
of  different  fizes,  without  feet  or  han- 
dles, completely  round  like  a  ball,  ex- 
cepting the  mouth,  which  projeds  a 
little." 

1"  This  cruflacean,  Liinulus  poly- 
phcniits.  is  Itill  feen  on  the  firanfls  of 
New  England.  They  are  found  in  great 
abundance  in  more  fouthern  waters  ;  on 
the  fliores  of  Long  llland  and  New  Jer- 
fey,  they  are  collected  in  boat-loads  and 
made  ufcful  for  fertilizing  purpofes. 
Champlain  has  left  a  drawing  of  it  on 
his  large  map.  It  is  vulgarly  known 
as  the  king-crab,  or  horfe-foot ;  to  the 
latter  it  bears  a  ftriking  fimilarity.  This 
very  accurate  defcription  of  Champlain 
was  copied  by  De  Laet  into  his  elabo- 
rate  work   "  News    Orbis,"  publifhed 

in 


J 


Sieitr  de  Champlain, 


I 


^1 


fliell  on  its  back  like  the  tortoife,  yet  different,  there  being  in 
tlie  micklle  a  row  of  little  prickles,  of  the  color  of  a  dead  leaf, 
like  the  reft  of  the  fi(h.  At  the  end  of  this  Ihell,  there  is 
another  flill  fmaller,  bordered  by  very  lliarj)  points.  The 
len<j^th  of  the  tail  varies  according:  to  their  fize.  With  the 
end  of  it,  thefe  i)eople  point  their  arrows,  and  it  contains 
alfo  a  row  of  prickles  like  the  large  fliell  in  which  are  the 
eyes.  There  are  eight  fniall  feet  like  thofe  of  the  crab,  and 
two  behind  longer  and  fkatter,  which  they  ufe  in  fwijiiming. 
There  are  alfo  in  front  two  other  very  fmall  ones  with  which 
they  eat.  When  walking,  all  the  feet  are  concealed  excei)t- 
ing  the  two  hindennoll,  which  are  flightly  vifible.  Under  the 
fniall  lliell  there  are  membranes  which  Iwell  uj^  and  beat  like 
the  throat  of  a  frog,  and  reft  upon  each  other  like  the  folds  of 
a  waiftcoat.  The  largeft  fpecimen  of  this  fifti  that  I  faw  was 
a  foot  broad,  and  a  foot  and  a  half  long. 

We  faw  alfo  a  fea-bird  '"^  with  a  black  beak,  the  upper  part 
flightly  acjuiline,  four  inches  long  and  in  the  form  of  a  lancet; 
namely,  the  lower  part  reprefenting  the  handle  and  the  upper 
the  blade,  which  is  thin,  fiiarp  on  both  fides,  and  fliorter  by 

a 

in   1633.   accompanied  Ijy  an  excellent  exceedingly  long;  they  flj' in  clofe  flocks, 

wood-enijravinfj.     This  fpccies  is  pecu-  niovins;  fimultanooully.     They  Teem  to 

liar  to  our  Atlantic  waters,  and  naturally  feed  as  they  fkim  low  over  the  water, 

at  that  time  attracted  tlie  attention  of  the  under-mandil^le  jjrazint,'  or  cuttint,' 

Europeans,  wiio  had  not  feen  it  hefore.  tlie    furface.   and    thus    takinjjj    in    their 

1"-  The  Black  Skimmer  or  Cut-water,  food.  —  I'idt'    Coiia's    k't'v    to     A'orth 

I\Iiync/iofis  ,'tii^ru.     It  appears  to  he  dif-  Aiiierinui  Birds,  IJollon,  r.S72,  p.  324. 
tincl:  from,   but  clofely   related   to,   the         Wiietlier  Champlain  law  this  bird  as 

Terns.     This  bird  is  here  del'cribed  with  a  '•  flray  "  on  the  (hores  of  Cape  Cod,  or 

f^eneral    accuracy.      Accordini;   to    Dr.  whether  it  has  lince  cealed  to  come  in 

Coues,  it  beloni^s  more  ])artirularly  to  the  lart^e  numbers  as  far  north  as  formerly, 

.South  Atlantic  and  (}ulf  States,  where  offers  an  interellinji  inquiry  ff)r  the  orni- 

it  is  very  abundant :  it  is  frequent  in  the  tholD^ilfs.     Specimens  may  be  feen  in 

Middle    States,   and   only   occalionally  the   .Mufeum  of  the   Bolton  Society  of 

feen  in  New  England.     The  wings  are  Natural  Hillory. 


•• 


I 


»i  ! 


ll 


i'  if 


.  li 


I 


88 


Voyages  of 


a  third  than  the  other,  which  circiimflancc  is  a  matter  of 
alloiiilhiiiL'nt  to  many  pcrfoiis,  whi)  cannot  comprehend  how 
it  is  poffible  for  this  bird  to  eat  with  llich  a  beat:.  It  is  of 
the  fize  of  a  pigeon,  tlie  wings  being  very  long  in  proportion 
to  the  body,  the  tail  (hort,  as  alfo  the  legs,  which  are  red ;  the 
feet  being  fniall  and  flat.  The  plumage  on  the  upper  part  is 
gray-brown,  and  on  the  under  part  pure  white.  Tliey  go 
always  in  tlocks  along  the  fea-fliorc,  like  the  pigeons  with  us. 
The  lavages,  along  all  thefe  coafls  where  we  have  been,  fay 
th.-vt  other  birds,  which  are  very  large,  come  along  when  their 
corn  is  ripe.  They  imitated  for  us  their  cry,  which  refembles 
that  of  the  turkey.  They  fliowed  us  their  feathers  in  feveral 
places,  with  which  they  feather  their  arrows,  and  which  they 
put  on  their  heads  for  decoration ;  and  alfo  a  kind  of  hair 
which  they  have  under  the  throat  like  thofe  we  have  in 
France,  and  they  fay  that  a  red  crefl  falls  over  upon  the 
beak.  According  to  their  defcription,  they  are  as  large  as  a 
buflard,  which  is  a  kind  of  goofe,  having  the  neck  longer  and 
twice  as  large  as  thofe  with  us.  All  thefe  indications  led  us 
to  conclude  Ihat  they  were  turkeys.^^^    We  fliould  have  been 

very 

^""^  Ch;implain  was  clearly  correft  in  tides.     Sucli   as   love   Turkie   hunting, 

his  concliilion.     The  wild  Turkey,  Me-  moll  follow  it  in  winter  after  a  new-falne 

Icui^ris  i^iillopavo,  was  not  uncommon  Snow,  when  liee  may  followe  them  by 

in  New  England  at  tiiat  period.     Wood  tlieir  tra(^ts  ;  fome  haue  killed  ten  or  a 

and  jolTelyn  and  Higginfon,  all  fpeak  of  dozen   in   lialf  a  day;   if  they  can   be 

it  fuily  ; —  found  towards  an  evening  and  watched 

"Of   thefe.   fometimes   there   will  be  where  they  peirch,  if  one  come  about  ten 

forty,   threefcore   and   a  hundred  of  a  or  eleven  of  the  clock,  he  may  fhoote  as 

tiocke  ;  fometimes  more,  and  fometimes  often  as  he  will,  they  will  lit,   unJetTe 

leile  ;  their  feeding  is  Acornes,  Hawes,  they  be  flenderly  wounded.     Thefe  Tur- 

and   Berries  ;  fome  of  them  get  a  haunt  kies  remaine  all  the  yeare  long,  the  price 

to  frecjiient  our  Kng/i//i  corne  :   In  win-  of  a  good  Turkey  cocke  is  foure  (hillings  ; 

ter.  when  the  fnow  covers  the  ground,  and  he  is  well  worth  it.  for  he  may  be 

they  refort  to  the  Sea  (hore  to  look  for  in    weiglit    forty   pound:    a    Men,    two 

Shrimps,  and  fuch  fmal   Filhes  ut  low  Ihillings."  —  IVooii's     Aew     EHi;/(>itd 

Pro/pea, 


%: 


Sictir  de  Chaviplain, 


89 


very  j^lad  to  fee  fomc  of  tlu'fe  birds,  ns  well  as  tlicir  fcatlicrs, 
for  the  fake  of  greater  certainty.  liefore  feeiivj;  their  feathers, 
and  the  little  buncii  of  hair  which  they  have  under  the  throat, 
and  hearini;  their  cry  imitated,  I  (liould  have  thoui;ht  that 
they  were  certain  birds  like  turkeys,  which  are  foutul  in  fome 
places  in  Peru,  aloni;  the  fea-lhore,  eating  carrion  and  other 
dead  things  like  crows.  Ikit  thefe  are  not  fo  large;  nor  do 
they  have  fo  long  a  bill,  or  a  cry  like  that  of  real  turkeys; 
nor  are  they  good  to  eat  like  thofe  which  the  Indians  (ay 
come  in  flocks  in  fummer,  and  at  the  beginning  of  winter  go 
away  to  warmer  countries,  their  natural  dwelling-place. 


rn>//>t'il,  \C>1^.  Prince  Society  ed,,  I5of- 
ton!  p.  32. 

'•'i'lie  Tiirkit',  who  is  blacker  tlian 
ours  ;  I  haue  heard  feveral  credible  per- 
fons  affirin.  they  haue  feen  Turkic  Cocks 
that  have  weifjlied  forty,  yea  fixty  pound  ; 
but  out  of  my  perfonal  experimental 
knowledge  I  can  allure  you,  that  I  haue 
eaten  my  (hare  of  a  V'mkie  Co  k,  that 
when  he  was  puU'd  and  <;.irl)i(lLj'd, 
wriirhed  thirty  [9]  pound  ;  and  I  haue 
alio  feen  threefcore  broods  of  youni; 
Tuikics  on  the  (ide  of  a  marfli,  funninj; 
thenifelvcs  in  a  morniuij  betimes,  but 
this  was  thirty  years  fince.  the  Kni^lijh 
and  the  Indians  havinij  now  dellroyed 
the  breed,  fo  that  'tis  very  rare  to  meet 
witii  a  wild  Turkic  in  the  Woods:  Hut 
fome  of  tlie  Eiii^liJJi  brins^  up  threat  (lore 
of  the  wild  kind,  which  remain  about 
their  Houfes  as  tame  as  ours  in  Enj^- 
iatid.^^  —  New  Euij^laiuVs  Rarities,  by 
John  JolTelyn,  Gent.,  London,  1672, 
Tuckerman's  ed.,  pp.  41,  42. 

"  Here  are  like  wife  abundance  of 
Turkies   often    killed    in    the   Woods, 


chaiti:r  IX. 


farre  greater  then  our  Knt^Iilli  Turkies, 
and  exceedinij  fat,  fwcct.  and  flefliy,  for 
hiTe  they  haue  aboimdance  of  feedini; 
ail  the  ycere  lon^;,  as  .Strawbcrriees,  in 
.Summer  at  pl.aces  are  full  of  them  and 
all  manner  of  Berries  and  Fruits."  — 
Xeiv  Eiii^laiic/  lUantation,  by  I'rancis 
nii^f^infon,  London,  r''>3o.  I'iJc  alfo 
Bradford's  llijl.  Plvm.  Tlantation, 
1646,  Deane's  ed.,  KoHon,  1S56.  p.  105. 

It  appears  to  be  the  ojiinion  amontj 
recent  ornitholosjifls  that  tlie  fjjecies  of 
turkey,  thus  e  irly  ffunid  in  New  Lni;- 
land,  was  the  Mclcat^ris  Americana,  lont; 
fince  extirpated,  and  not  identical  witli 
our  domcllicated  bird.  Our  domellic 
turkey  is  fuppofcd  to  have  originated 
in  the  Well  Indies  or  in  Mexico,  anrl 
to  have  been  tranfplanted  as  tamed  to 
o'her  parts  of  this  continent,  and  to 
Europe,  and  named  by  Linnx'us  Me- 
leat^ris  [rallopavo.  — Vide  Report  on  the 
Zoidoi^V  of  Pacific  Railroad  Routes,  by 
15aird,"Wafhino;ton,  1858.  Vol.  IX.  Part 
II.  pp.  613-618;  Coues's  Key,  Bollon, 
1872,  pp.  231,  232. 


1 


II  ' 


I   .    :i 


If      \ 

I ' 


12 


(I, 


H 


R  i 


i!;^ 


90 


Voyages  of 


CHAPTER   IX. 


Return  from  the  Discoveries  along  the  Coast  of  'rvs  Almouchiquois. 


]E  had  fpent  more  than  five  weeks  in  going  over 
three  degrees  of  latitude,  and  our  voyage  was 
limited  to  fix,  fince  we  had  not  taken  provifions 
for  a  longer  time.  In  confequence  of  fogs  and 
florms,  we  had  not  been  able  to  go  farther  than 
Mallebarre,  where  we  waited  feveral  days  for  fair  weather,  in 
order  to  fail.  Finding  ourfelves  accordingly  preffed  by  the 
fcantinefs  of  provifions,  Sieur  de  Monts  determined  to  return 
to  the  Ifland  of  St.  Croix,  in  order  to  find  another  place  more 
favorable  for  our  fettlement,  as  we  had  not  been  able  to  do  on 
any  of  the  coafis  which  we  had  explored  on  this  voyage. 

Accordingly,  on  the  25th  of  July,  we  fet  out  from  this 
harbor,  in  order  to  make  obfervtions  elfewhere.  In  going 
out,  we  came  near  being  lofl  on  the  bar  at  the  entrance,  from 
the  miflake  of  our  pilots,  Cramolet  and  Champdore,  maflers 
of  the  barque,  who  had  imperfe6lly  marked  out  the  entrance 
of  the  channel  on  the  fouthern  .fide,  where  we  were  to  go. 
Having  efcaped  this  danger,  we  headed  north-eaft  ^'^  for  fix 
leagues,  until  we  reached  Cap  Blanc,  failing  on  from  there 

to 

"'*  Champlain  is  in  error  as  to  the  Anne,  and  about  16'  eafl  of  the  weftern 
lonj^itude  of  Mallebarre,  or  Naufet  bar-  point  of  Cap  Blanc,  or  Cape  Cod;  and, 
bor,  from  which  they  took  their  depart-  to  reach  tlieir  dellination,  they  mutt 
ure  on  the  25th  of  July,  :6o5.  This  port  have  failed  nortli-well.  and  not  north- 
is  about  38'  ealt  of  Ifland  Cape,  or  Cape  eaif,  as  he  erroneoully  itates. 


i 


m 


A 


Sietir  de  Chainplain. 


91 

t()  IHand  Cape,  a  diftance  of  fifteen  leagues,  with  the  dime 
wind.     Then   we   headed  eafl-north-caft  fixtcen   leagues,  aj 
far  as  Choiiacoet,  where  we  faw  the  faxage  chief,   JVIalchin  '"' 
whom  we  had  expeded  to  fee  at  the  Lake  Ouinibequy.     He 
had  the  reputation  of  being  one  of   the  valTant   ones  of  his 
people.     He  had  a  fine  appearance  :  all  his  motions  were  dig- 
nified, favage  as  he  was.     Sieur  de   Monts  gave   him   man'^y 
prcfents,  with  which  he  was  greatly  pleafed  ;  a^d,  in  return. 
JVIarchin    gave  him  a  young  Etechemin  bo)-,  Nvhom  he  had 
captured  m  war,  and  whom  we  took  av-ay  with  us;  and  thus 
V  ■  fet  out,  mutually  good  friends.     We  headed  north-eaft  a 
quarter  eaft  for  fifteen  leagues,  as  far  as  Quinibequy,  where 
we  arrived  on  the   29th  of   the  month,  and  where  we  were 
expeding   to    find    a   favage,    named    Safinou,  of   whom    I 
fpoke  before.     Thinking  that   he   would   come,  we    waited 
fome  time  for  him,  in  order  to  recover  from  him  an  Eteche- 
min  young  man  and  girl,  whom  he  was  holding  as  orifoners. 
While  waiting,  there  came  to  us  a  captain  cilled  Anaffou 
who  trafficked  a  little  in  furs,  and  with  whom  we  made  an' 
alliance.     He  told  us  that  there  was  a  fliip,  ten  leagues  off 
the  harbor,  which  was  engaged  in  fifliing,  and  that  tliofe  on 
her  had  killed  five  favages  of  this  river,  under  cover  of  friend- 
fliip.     From  his  defcription  of  the  men  on  the   veffel,  we 
concluded  that  they  ivere  Englifh,  and  we  named  the  ifland 
where  they  were  La  Nef;^^«  for,  at  a  diftance,  it  had   the 

a]3pearance 

176  They  had  failed  to  meet  him  at    about  twenty-^^v.     nautical    miles    .■.(> 

merrymettmg     liay.  -  Vide  antea,  p.     mile  and  a  third  Ion-,  with  an  elevation 

176  TU»  -n     J     1  •  1     ,         ,  ^'^  "^^   hii,die(t  point  of  a  hundred  anrl 

"«  The  ifland  which  they  thus  named     forty  feet  al)ove     '      '       ■   ""-"^"'  ''"'^ 
JM    l\'cf,   the    Ship,    was    Monhej;an,     and  in  latitud 


^   43     45'  5: 


)f  the  fea, 
Cham- 
plain's 


:i 


1"  i\ 


p  • 


I 


-1 


92 

appearance  of  a  ship. 


Voyages  of 


Finding  that  the  above-mentioned 

Safinou 


pkin's  conjcfture  as  to  the  nationality 
of  tlie  fhip  was  correct  It  was  the 
'•  Arciiansjel,"  commanded  by  the  cele- 
brated explorer.  Captain  GeorGje  Wey- 
mouth, wiio  under  the  patronajje  of  tlie 
Earl  of  Southampton  came  to  explore 
our  Atlantic  coalt  in  the  fpring  of  1605, 
for  the  purpofe  of  felefling  a  fite  for 
an  Englifh  colony.  He  anchored  near 
Monhejjan  on  the  28th  of  May,  N.  S.  ; 
and,  after  fpendintr  nearly  a  month  in 
reconnoitring  the  iflands  and  mainland 
in  the  vicinity,  and  capturing  five  of  the 
natives,  he  took  his  departure  for  Eng- 
land on  the  26th  of  June.  On  the  5th 
of  July,  jull  9  days  after  Weymouth 
left  the  coart,  De  Monts  and  Cham- 
pl.iin  entered  with  their  little  barque 
the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec.  They  do 
not  appear  to  have  feen  at  that  time  any 
of  tlie  natives  at  or  ai)0Ut  the  mouth  of 
the  river  :  and  it  is  not  unlikely  that,  on 
account  of  the  feizure  and,  as  they  fup- 
pofcil,  the  murder  of  their  comrades  by 
Weymouth,  they  had  retired  farther  up 
the  river  for  greater  fafety.  On  the 
return,  however,  of  the  Frencli  from 
Cape  Cod,  on  the  29th  of  July,  AnalTou 
gave  them,  as  ftated  in  tlie  text,  a 
friendly  recf-ption,  and  related  the  (lory 
of  the  feizure  of  his  friends. 

To  prevent  the  interference  of  other 
nations,  it  was  the  policy  of  Weymouth 
and  his  patron  not  to  difclofe  tlie  local- 
ity of  the  region  he  had  explored  ;  and 
confequently  Rofier,  the  narrator  of  the 
voyage,  fo  fkilfully  withheld  whatever 
might  clearly  identify  the  place,  and 
couclied  his  defcriptions  in  fucli  indefi- 
nite language,  that  there  has  been  and 
is  now  a  great  diverfity  of  opinion  on 
the  fubjeft  among  local  hifiorians.  It 
was  the  opinion  of  the  Rev.  Thomas 
I'rince  that  Weymouth  explored  the 
Kennel lec,  or  Sagad.dioc.  and  with  him 
coincide    Mr.   John    McKecn    and    the 


Rev.  Dr.  Ballard,  of  Rrunfwick.  The 
B'.ev.  Dr.  Belknap,  after  falisfaclory 
examinations,  decided  that  it  was  the 
l'enol)fcot ;  and  he  is  followed  by  Mr. 
William  Willis,  late  Prefident  of  the 
Maine  Hillorical  Society.  Mr.  (ieorge 
Prince,  of  Bath,  has  pul)lifhed  an  elabo- 
rate paper  to  prove  that  it  was  St. 
Ceorge's  River  ;  and  Mr.  David  Cufli- 
man,  of  Warren,  coincides  in  this  view. 
Other  writers,  not  entering  into  the 
difcuffion  at  length,  accept  one  or  an- 
other of  the  theories  above  mentioned. 
It  does  not  fall  within  the  purview  of 
our  prefent  purpofe  to  enter  upon  the 
difcuffion  of  this  fubjecL  But  tiie 
rtatement  in  the  text,  not  referred  to 
by  any  of  the  above-mentioned  writers, 
"that  thofe  on  her  had  killed  five  fava- 
ges  of  tit  is  rh/er,''^  que  ceux  de  dedans 
aiioient  tiu'  cinq  fauiiages  (Vicclle  riii- 
icre,  can  hardly  fail  to  have  weight  in 
the  decifion  of  this  interelting  ciueition. 

The  chief  Anafi"ou  reported  that  they 
were  "  killed,"  a  natural  inference  under 
the  circUmflances  ;  but  in  fact  they  were 
caretully  concealed  in  the  hold  of  the 
Ihip,  and  three  of  them,  having  been 
tranfported  to  England  and  introduced 
into  his  family,  imparted  much  impor- 
tant information  to  .Sir  Kerdinando 
Gorges,  whofe  difiinguiflied  career  was 
afterward  fo  intimately  connected  with 
the  progrefs  of  American  colonization. 
For  the  difcuffion  touching  the  river 
explored  by  Weymouth,  vide  Prince's 
Annals,  1736,  in  loco ;  Belknap's  Amer- 
ican Bioi^raphy^  I794»  Vol.  II.,  art. 
Weymouth  ;  Remarks  on  the  Voyage  of 
George  Waymouih,  liy  John  AIcKeen, 
Col.  Me.  His.  Society,  Vol.  V.  p.  309; 
Comments  on  IVaymontli^s  P'oyage,  by 
William  Willis,  idem,  p.  344;  I'oyage 
of  Captain  Geort^e  Weymouth,  by 
George  Prince,  Col.  Me.  His.  Soc, 
Vol.  VI.  p.  293;   IVeymon/h's    Voyage, 


lHI 


'I 

i 


Siettr  de  Chaviplam,  93 

Safinou  did  not  come,  we  headed  eaft.fouth.eafl/''''i  for  twenty 
leagues,  to  Ifle  Haute,  where  we  anchored  for  the  night. 

On  the  next  day,  the  ifl  of  Augufl,  we  failed  cafl  fome 
twenty  leagues  to  Cap  Corneille,^^^  where  we  fpent  the 
night.  On  the  2d  of  the  month,  we  failed  north-eaft 
feven  leagues  to  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Croix,  on  the 
weflern  fliore.  Having  anchored  between  the  two  firft 
iflands,^'*^  Sieur  de  Monts  embarked  in  a  canoe,  at  a  diflance 
of  fix  leagues  from  the  fettlement  of  St.  Croix,  where  we 
arrived  the  next  day  with  our  barque.  We  found  there 
Sieur  des  Antons  of  St.  Malo,  who  had  come  in  one  of  the 
veffels  of  Sieur  de  Monts,  to  bring  provifions  and  alfo  other 
fupplies  for  thofe  who  were  to  winter  in  this  country. 


by  David  Cufhman,  idevi,  p.  309 ; 
George  Weyt/iouth  and  the  Kennebec, 
by  the  Rev.  Edward  Ballard,  D.D., 
Memorial  Volume  of  the  Popham  Cele- 
bration, Portland,  1863,  p.  301. 

1701-2  ly^  headed  eajl  fouth-eajl.  It 
is  poffihle  that,  on  leaving  the  mouth  of 
the  Kennebec,  they  failed  for  a  fliort 
diftance  to  the  fouth-eaft  ;  but  the  gen- 
eral courfe  was  to  the  north-eaft. 

^''"^  Cap  Corneille,  or  Crow  Cape,  was 
apparently  the  point  of  land  advancing 
out  between  Machias   and    Little  Ma- 


CHAPTER   X. 


chias  Bays,  including  perhaps  Crofs 
Ifland.  De  Monts  and  his  jwrty  prob- 
ably anchored  and  palled  the  night  in 
Machias  Bay.  The  pofition  of  Cap 
Corneille  may  be  fatisfaflorily  fixed  by 
its  diftance  and  diredion  from  the 
Grand  Manan,  as  feen  on  Champlain's 
map  of  161 2,  to  which  the  reader  is 
referred. 

1"**  This  anchorage  was  between  Cam- 
pobello  and  Moole  Ifland,  on  which  is 
fituated  the  town  of  EaPport. 


I 


\V 


Im 


I 


k^  111 

I 


'  1  ' 

^x 

A 

r 

i 

i 

if 


lir  M 


94  Voyages  of 


CHAPTER   X. 

The  Lwelling-Place  on  the  Island  of  St.  Croix  transferred  to 
PoiiT  Royal,  and  the  Reason  why. 

lEUR  DE  MONTS  determined  to  change  his 
location,  and  make  another  fettlement,  in  order 
to  avoid  the  fevere  cold  and  the  bad  winter 
which  we  had  had  in  the  Ifland  of  St.  Croix. 
As  we  had  not,  up  to  that  time,  found  any 
fuitablc  harbor,  and,  in  view  of  the  fliort  time  we  had  for 
building  houfes  in  which  to  eflablifli  ourfelves,  we  fitted  out 
two  barques,  and  loaded  them  with  the  frame-work  taken 
from  the  houfes  of  St.  Croix,  in  order  to  tranfport  it  to  Port 
Royal,  twenty-five  leagues  diftant,  where  we  thought  the  cli- 
mate was  much  more  temperate  and  agreeable.  Pont  Grave 
and  I  fet  out  for  that  place  ;  and,  having  arrived,  we  looked 
for  a  fite  favorable  for  our  refidence,  under  flielter  from  the 
north-weft  wind,  which  we  dreaded,  having  been  very  much 
haraffed  by  it. 

After  fearching  carefully  in  all  diredlions,  we  found  no 
place  more  fuitable  and  better  fituated  than  one  flightly 
elevated,  about  which  there  are  fome  marflies  and  good 
fprings  of  water.  This  place  is  oppofite  the  ifland  at  the 
mouth   of  the  river   Equille.^''^      To  the  north  of  us  about 

a 

1'^  In    the    original,   Champlain    has  Lefcarbot  fays  the  "river  was   named 

written  the  name  of   this  river  in  this  U'Ec/uil/e  becaufe   the  firll   fifli  tal^en 

particular  inllance   Guille.  probably  an  therein   was   an   equill^. — Vide  antea, 

abljreviation    tor  A/ij^iiillt:,  the   French  note  57. 
name  of  the  fifli  which  we  call  the  eel. 


\: 


^  t 


^^^k 


[I 


Sicttr  de  Chainplain. 


95 

a  league,  there  is  a  range  of  mountains/^''  extending  nearly 
ten  leagues  in  a  north-eaft  and  fouth-wefl  diredlion.  The 
whole  country  is  filled  with  thick  forefls,  as  I  mentioned 
above,  except  at  a  point  a  league  and  a  half  up  the  river, 
where  there  are  fome  oaks,  although  fcattering,  and  many 
wild  vines,  which  one  could  eafily  remove  and  put  the  foil 
under  cultivation,  notwithflanding  it  is  light  and  fandy.  We 
had  almofl  refolved  to  build  there;  but  the  confidcration 
that  we  fliould  have  been  too  far  up  the  harbor  and  river  led 
us  to  change  our  mind. 

Recognizing  accordingly  the  fite  of  our  habitation  as  a 
good  one,  we  began  to  clear  up  the  ground,  which  was  full 
of  trees,  and  to  ered  houfes  as  foon  as  poffible.  Each  one 
was  bufy  in  this  work.  After  every  thing  had  been  arranged, 
and  the  majority  of  the  dwellings  built,  Sieur  de  Monts 
determined  to  return  to  France,  in  order  to  petition  his 
Majefty  to  grant  him  all  that  might  be  neceffary  for  his 
undertaking.  He  had  defired  to  leave  Sieur  d'Orville  to 
command  in  this  place  in  his  abfence.  But  the  climatic 
malady,  mal  de  la  tcrrc,  with  which  he  was  afflicted  would  not 
allow  him  to  gratify  the  wifli  of  Sieur  de  Monts.  On  this 
account,  a  conference  was  held  with  Pont  Grave  on  the  fub- 
jed,  to  whom  this  charge  w^is  offered,  which  he  was  happy  to 
accept;  and  he  finifhed  what  little  of  the  habitation  remained 
to  be  built.  I,  at  the  fame  time,  hoping  to  have  an  oppor- 
tunity  to  make  fome  new  explorations  towards  Florida, 
determined  to  Hay  there  alfo,  of  which  Sieur  de  Monts  ap- 
proved. 

CHAPTER   XL 

**«  The  elevation  of  this  range  varies  from  fix  hundred  to  feven  hundred  feet. 


1 


\\ 


i> 


;l:» 


I 


r 

fa' 


■I 


' .  r' 

if. 


I 


w% 


96 


Voyages  of 


'':f  \ 


CHAPTER  XI. 

What  took  Place  after  the  Departure  of  Sieur  de  Monts,  until, 
NO  Tidings  of  what  he  had  promised  reing  received,  we  departed 
from  Port  Royal  to  return  to  France. 

S  foon  as  Sieur  de  Monts  had  departed,  a  portion 
of  the  forty  or  forty-five  who  remained  began 
to  make  gardens.  I,  alfo,  for  the  fake  of  occu- 
pying my  time^  made  one,  which  was  furround- 
ed  with  ditches  full  of  water,  in  which  I  placed 
fome  fine  trout,  and  into  which  flowed  three  brooks  of  very 
fine  running  water,  from  which  the  greater  part  of  our  fettle- 
ment  was  fupplied.  I  made  alfo  a  little  fluice-way  towards 
the  Ihore,  in  order  to  draw  off  the  water  when  I  wifhed. 
This  fpot  was  entirely  furrounded  by  meadows,  where  I  con- 
ftru6led  a  fummer-houfe,  with  fome  fine  trees,  as  a  refort  for 
enjoying  the  frefli  air.  I  made  there,  alfo,  a  little  refervoir 
for  holding  falt-water  fifli,  which  we  took  out  as  we  wanted 
them.  I  took  efpecial  pleafure  in  it,  and  planted  there 
fome  feeds  which  turned  out  well.  But  much  work  had  to 
be  laid  out  in  preparation.  We  reforted  often  to  this  place 
as  a  paftime ;  and  it  feemed  as  if  the  little  birds  round  about 
took  pleafure  in  it,  for  they  gathered  there  in  large  numbers, 
warbling  and  chirping  fo  pleafantly  that  I  think  I  never 
heard  the  like. 

The  plan  of  the  fettlement  was  ten  fathoms  long  and  eight 
wide,  making  the  diftance  round  thirty-fix.  On  the  eaftern 
fide  is  a  ftore-houfe,  occupying  the  width  of  it,  and  a  very 

fine 


! 


m 


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ill 

iJ 

( 


■  i    i 


^  I' ■ 


in 


I 


1 


:'"^<^' '".y;^^  """V"!1  '  fli'-: 


•1,-.  V  |;7w*  -J-^'^ 


i/'.  un 


u 


Wwmmtt  n-  mm 


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t. 


1 

1) 

'tpt 

lii 

n 

i 

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t 

tl 

■ 

' 

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h 


ii  i 


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I*.   ! 

'^    \ 
I' 

■y 


W 


li  n 


i 


A 


\* 


)il 


Sieitr  de  Cha7)iplain. 


97 


fine  cellar  from  five  to  fix  feet  deep.  On  the  northern  fide 
are  the  quarters  of  Sieur  dc  Monts,  hand  omely  finilhed. 
About  th'"  back  }ard  are  the  duellings  of  the  workmen. 
At  a  corner  of  the  wcflcrn  fide  is  a  platform,  where  four  can- 
non were  placed ;  and  at  the  other  corner,  towards  the  eafi:, 
is  a  pahTade  Ihaped  Hk(?  a  platform,  as  can  be  feen  from  the 
accompanying  illufl ration. 

Some  days  after  the  building'^  were  completed,  I  went  to 
the  river  St.  John  to  find  the  l  \age  named  Secondon,  the 
lame  that  conducted  Prevert's  jiarty  to  the  copper  mine, 
which  I  had  already  gone  in  fearch  of  with  Sieur  de  Monts, 
when  we  were  at  the  Port  of  Mines,  though  without  fuccefs."*' 
Having  found  him,  I  begged  him  to  go  there  with  us,  which 

he 


!*• 


I 


Champlain's  Explanation  of  the  accompanying  Map. 

L'Abitasion  du  Port  Rovai,. 
The  figures  indicate  fitthomi  of  lualer, 

A.  Dwelling  of  the  artifans.  />'.  Platform  where  the  cannon  were  placed. 
C.  The  flore-houfe.  D.  Dwelling  of  Sieur  de  Pont  Grave  and  (liamplain.  K. 
The  blackfrnith's  fhop.  F.  Palifade  of  pickets.  G.  The  bakery.  If.  The 
kitchen.  0.  Small  houfe  where  the  equipment  of  our  barques  wa.s  ftored.  This 
Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  afterwards  had  rebuilt,  and  Sieur  lioulay  dwelt  there  when 
Sieur  du  Pont  Grave  returned  to  France.  /'.  Gate  to  our  habitation.  Q-  The 
Cemetery.     R.  The  River. 

NoTE.s.  The  habitation  of  Port  Royal  was  on  the  prefent  fite  of  the  hamlet 
of  Lower  Granville  in  Nova  Scotia.  /.  Points  to  the  garden-plots.  A'.  Takes  the 
place  of  (9,  which  is  wanting  on  the  map,  and  marks  the  jjlact.'  of  tlie  cemetery, 
where  may  be  feen  the  crucifix,  tlie  death's-head,  and  crof.s-bones.  /..  Takes  tlie 
place  of  7i',  which  is  wanting,  to  indicate  the  river.  J/.  Indicates  the  moat  on 
the  north  fide  of  the  i '.welling.  A'.  Probal)ly  indicates  the  dwelling  of  the  gentle- 
men, De  Monts  and  others. 


'•'*   Vide  antea^  pp.  25,  26. 
•3 


•'(il 


I 


1  .  \ 

ill 


ii 


I 


&/. 


'  < 


p 


[  I 


K 

'I 

I 


t  I 


■' '  s: 


98 


Voy(7ges  of 


he  very  readily  confented  to  do,  and  proceeded  to  fliow  it  to  us. 
We  found  there  fome  little  pieces  of  copper  of  the  thicknefs 
of  a  fou,  and  others  flill  thicker  imbedded  in  grayifh  and 
red  rocks.  The  miner  accompanying  us,  whofe  name  was 
Mailer  Jaccjues,  a  native  of  Sclavonia,  a  man  very  fkilful  in 
fearching  for  minerals,  made  the  entire  circuit  of  the  hills 
to  fee  if  he  could  find  any  gangue,'"'-  but  without  fi-iccefs.  Yet 
he  f(nmd,  fome  fteps  from  where  we  had  taken  the  pieces  of 
copper  before  mentioned,  fomething  like  a  mine,  which,  how- 
ever, was  far  from  being  one.  He  faid  that,  from  the  ap|)ear- 
ance  of  the  foil,  it  might  prove  to  be  good,  if  it  were  worked ; 
and  that  it  was  not  probable  that  there  could  be  pure  coj^per 
on  the  furface  of  the  earth,  without  there  being  a  large  quan- 
tity of  it  underneath.  The  truth  is  that,  if  the  water  did  not 
cover  the  mines  twice  a  day,  and  if  they  did  not  lie  in  fuch 
hard  rocks,  fomething  might  be  expedled  from  them. 

After  making  this  obfervation,  we  returned  to  our  fettle- 
ment,  where  we  found  fome  of  our  company  fick  with  the 
mal  de  la  tcrre,  but  not  fo  ferioufly  as  at  the  Ifland  of  St. 
Croix ;  although,  out  of  our  number  of  forty-five,  twelve  died, 
including  the  miner,  and  five  were  fick,  who  recovered  the 
following  fpring.  Our  furgeon,  named  Des  Champs,  from 
Honfleur,  fkilful  in  his  profeffion,  opened  fome  of  the  bodies, 
to  fee  whether  he  mic;ht  be  more  fuccefsful  in  difcoverin^jthe 
caufe  of  the  maladies  than  our  furgeons  had  been  the  year 
before.  He  found  the  parts  of  the  body  affe6led  in  the 
fame  manner  as  thofe  opened  at  the  Ifland  of  St.  Croix, 
but  could  difcover  no  means  of  curing  them,  any  more  than 

the  other  fursjeons,  ^ 

*  On 

i''-  La  ^ani^ue.     Tliis    s  the  technical  word  for  the  matrix,  or  fubftance  con- 
taining the  ore  of  metals. 


n 


VP' 


i 


Si  cur  dc  Chaiupla'uL 


99 


On  tlic  20th  of  December,  it  bej^an  to  (now,  and  Ibnie  ice 
palTed  along  before  our  fettlement.  The  winter  was  not  fo 
fiarp  as  the  year  before,  nor  the  Ihow  fo  deej),  or  of  fo  long 
duration.  Among  other  incidents,  the  wind  was  To  violent 
on  the  20th  of  I*'ebruary,  1605,'''''  that  it  blew  over  a  large 
number  of  trees,  roots  and  all,  and  broke  off  many  others. 
It  was  a  remarkable  fight.  The  rains  were  very  frequent, 
which  was  the  caufe  of  the  mild  winter  in  comparifon  with 
the  i)aft  one,  although  it  is  only  twenty-five  leagues  from 
Port   Royal  to  St.  Croix. 

On  the  firfl:  day  of  March,  Pont  Grave  ordered  a  barque  of 
feventeen  or  eighteen  tons  to  be  fitted  up,  which  was  ready 
on  the  15th,  in  order  to  go  on  a  voyage  of  difcovery  along 
the  coaft  of  IHorida."*^  With  this  view,  we  fet  out  on  the  i6th 
following,  but  were  obliged  to  put  in  at  an  ifland  to  the  fouth 
of  IVIanan,  having  gone  that  day  eighteen  leagues.  We  an- 
chored in  a  fandy  cove,  expofed  to  the  fea  and  the  fouth 
wind.'^'^  The  latter  increafed,  during  the  night,  to  fuch  an 
impetuofity  that  we  could  not  fland  by  our  anchor,  and  were 
compelled,  without  choice,  to  go  afhore,  at  the  mercy  of  God 
and  the  waves.  The  latter  were  fo  heavy  and  furious  that 
while  we  were  attaching  the  buoy  to  the  anchor,  fo  as  to  cut 
the  cable  at  the  hawfe-hole,  it  did  not  give  us  time,  but  broke 
ftraightway  of  itfelf.  The  wind  and  the  fea  caft  us  as  the 
wave   receded   upon   a  little   rock,  and  we  awaited   only  the 

moment 

188  por  1605,  read  ifo^).  Manan   and    Wood    Ifland,    the    latter 

'**  Florida,  as  then  known,  extended  lieing   fouth  of    Manan,  and  is  plainly 

from  the    peninfula   indefinitely  to  the  tlie  illand  referred  to  in  the  text.     This 

north.  cove  is  open  to  the  fonth  wind  and  the 

^^•'  Se.al   Cove,  wliich   makes   up  be-  fea   in   a   florm.      Wood   I  (land   has  a 

tween  the  fouth-vveft  end  of  the  Grand  fandy  fliore  with  occafional  rocks. 


% 

;  I 


II:        ■ 


1 


% 


lOO 


Voyages  of 


\y^ 


I 


\\ 


moment  to  fee  our  barque  break  up,  and  to  fave  ourfclvcs, 
if  poffible,  upon  its  fragments.  In  thcle  dcfperate  ftraits, 
after  we  had  received  feveral  waves,  there  came  one  fo  large 
and  fortunate  for  us  that  it  carried  us  over  the  rock,  and  threw 
us  on  to  a  little  fandy  beach,  which  infured  us  for  this  time 
from  fliip wreck. 

The  barque  being  on  fliore,  we  began  at  once  to  unload 
what  there  was  in  her,  in  order  to  afcertain  where  the  dam- 
age was,  which  was  not  fo  great  as  we  expected.  She  was 
fpeedily  repaired  ])y  the  diligence  of  Champdore,  her  mafler. 
Having  been  put  in  order,  (lie  was  reloaded;  and  we  waited 
for  fair  weather  and  until  the  fury  of  the  fea  fliould  abate, 
which  was  not  until  the  end  of  four  days,  namely,  the  21  ft  of 
Marrh,  wheri  we  fet  out  from  this  miferable  place,  and 
proceeded  to  Port  aux  Coquilles,^^^  feven  or  eight  leagues 
diflant.  The  latter  is  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Cn-lx, 
where  there  was  a  large  quantity  of  fnow.  We  flayed  there 
until  the  29th  of  the  month,  in  confequence  of  the  fogs  and 
contrary  winds,  which  are  ulual  at  this  feafon,  when  Pont 
Grave  determined  to  put  back  to  Port  Royal,  to  fee  in  what 
condition  our  companions  were,  whom  we  had  left  there  fick. 
Having  arrived  there,  Pont  Grave  was  attacked  with  illnefs, 
which  delayed  is  until  the  8th  of  April. 

On  the  gth  of  the  month  he  embarked,  although  flill  in- 
difpofed,  from  his  defire  to  fee  the  coafl:  of  Florida,  and  in  the 
belief   that  a  change  of  air  would  reflore  his  health.     The 

fame 

188  p0f.f  djf.)^  Coquilles,  the  harbor  of  and  was  probably  Head  Harbor,  which 
(hells.  This  port  was  near  the  north-  affords  a  good  harbor  of  refuge.  —  Vide 
eallern  extremity  of  Campobcilo  Ifland,     Champlain's  Map  of  161 2,  reference  9. 


A' 


Siettr  de  Chainplain. 


lOI 


fame  day  we  anchored  and  paffcd  the  night  at  the  mouth  of 
the  liarbor,  two  leagues  diilant  from  our  fettlcment. 

The  next  morning  before  day,  Champdore  came  to  afk 
Pont  Grave  if  he  wifhed  to  have  the  anchor  railed,  who 
replied  in  the  afifirmative,  if  he  deemed  the  weather  favorable 
for  fetting  out.  Upon  this,  Champdore  had  the  anchor 
railed  at  once,  and  the  fail  fpread  to  the  wind,  which  was 
north-north-eaft,  according  to  his  report.  The  weather  was 
thick  and  rainy,  and  the  air  full  of  fog,  with  indications  of 
foul  rather  than  fair  weather. 

While  going  out  of  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,^"  we  were 
fuddenly  carried  by  the  tide  out  of  the  paffage,  and,  before 
perceiving  them,  were  driven  upon  the  rocks  on  the  eaft- 
north-eaft  coafl.'^^  Pont  Grave  and  I,  who  were  afleep,  were 
awaked  by  hearing  the  failors  fliouting  and  exclaiming,  "  We 
are  loft!"  which  brought  me  quickly  to  my  feet,  to  fee  what 
was  the  matter.  Pont  Grave  was  ftill  ill,  which  prevented 
him  from  rifmg  as  quickly  as  he  wiflied.  I  was  fcarcely  on 
deck,  when  the  barque  was  thrown  upon  the  coaft ;  and  the 
wind,  which  was  north,  drove  us  upon  a  point.  We  unfurled 
the  mainfail,  turned  it  to  the  wind,  and  hauled  it  up  as  high 
as  we  could,  that  it  might  drive  us  up  as  far  as  poffible  on 
the  rocks,  for  fear  that  the  reflux  of  the  fea,  which  fortunately 
was  falling,  would  draw  us  in,  when  it  would  have  been  im- 
poffible  to  fave  ourfelves.  At  the  firft  blow  of  our  boat  upon 
the  rocks,  the  rudder  broke,  a  part  of  the  keel  and  three 


187  By  K  harbor  "  is  here  meant  An- 
napolis Bay. 

Tliis  wreck  of  the  barque  took  place 
on  the  Granville   fide  of  Digby  Strait, 


or 

where  the  tides  rife  from  twenty-three 
to  twenty-feven  feet. 

i»«  North-eall.    The  text  has  noroue/l, 
clearly  a  mifprint  for  nordejl. 


'^^\^'^ 

'V 

'I'll 

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J 

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I02 


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X 


4i  fp 


«  'i 


Voyages  of 


or  four  planks  were  fmafhed,  and  fome  ribs  flove  in,  which 
frightened  us,  for  our  barque  filled  immediately ;  and  all 
that  we  could  do  was  to  wait  until  the  fea  fell,  fo  that  we 
might  get  afliore.  For,  otherwife,  we  were  in  danger  of  our 
lives,  in  confcquence  of  the  fwell,  which  was  very  high  and 
furious  about  us.  The  fea  having  fallen,  we  went  on  fhore 
amid  the  florm,  when  the  barque  w'as  fpeedily  unloaded,  and 
we  faved  a  large  portion  of  the  provifions  in  her,  with  the  help 
of  the  favage.  Captain  Secondon  and  his  companions,  who 
came  to  us  with  their  canoes,  to  carry  to  our  habitation 
w'hat  we  had  faved  from  our  barque,  which,  ail  fliattered  as 
flie  was,  went  to  pieces  at  the  return  of  the  tide.  But  we, 
moft  happy  at  having  faved  our  lives,  returned  to  our  fettle- 
ment  wdth  our  poor  favages,  who  ftayed  there  a  large  part  of 
the  winter ;  and  we  praifed  God  for  having  refcued  us  from 
this  fliipwreck,  from  which  we  had  not  expelled  to  efcape  fo 
eafily. 

The  lofs  of  our  barque  caufed  us  great  regret,  fince  we 
found  ourfelves,  through  want  of  a  veffel,  deprived  of  the 
profpedl  of  being  able  to  accomplifli  the  voyage  we  had 
undertaken.  And  we  were  unable  to  build  another ;  for 
time  was  preffing,  and  although  there  was  another  barque  on 
the  ftocks,  yet  it  would  have  required  too  long  to  get  it  ready, 
and  we  could  fcarcely  have  made  ufe  of  it  before  the  return 
from  France  of  the  veffels  we  were  daily  expeding. 

This  was  a  great  misfortune,  and  owing  to  the  lack  of 
forefight  on  the  part  of  the  mafler,  who  was  obftinate,  but  lit- 
tle acquainted  with  feamanfhip,  and  trufling  only  his  own  head. 
He  was  a  good  carpenter,  fkilful  in  building  veffels,  and  care- 
ful 


\ 


'4 


Sietcr  de  Champlaiii. 


103 


ful  in  provifioning  them  with  all  necciTaries,  but  in  no  wife 
adapted  to  failing  them. 

Pont  Grave,  having  arrived  at  the  fettlement,  received  the 
evidence  againfl  Champdore,  who  was  accufed  of  having  run 
the  barque  on  fliore  with  evil  intent.  Upon  fuch  informa- 
tion, he  was  imprifoned  and  handcuffed,  with  the  intention 
of  taking  him  to  France  and  handing  him  over  to  Sieur  de 
Ml    ts,  to  be  treated  as  juftice  might  diredl. 

Jn  the  15th  of  June,  Pont  Grave',  finding  that  the  vei- 
fels  did  not  return  from  France,  had  the  handcuffs  taken  off 
from  Champdore,  that  he  might  fmifli  the  barque  which  was 
on  the  flocks,  which  lervice  he  difcharged  very  well. 

On  the  1 6th  of  July,  the  time  when  we  were  to  leave,  in 
cafe  the  veffels  had  not  returned,  as  was  provided  in  the  com- 
miffion  which  Sieur  de  Monts  had  given  to  Pont  Grave,  we 
fet  out  from  our  fettlement  to  go  to  Cape  Breton  or  to  Gari)o 
in  fearch  of  means  o*^  returning  to  France,  fmce  we  had 
received  no  intelligence  from  there. 

Two  of  our  men  remained,  of  their  own  accord,  to  take 
care  of  the  provifions  which  were  left  at  the  fettlement,  to 
each  of  whom  Pont  Grave  promifed  fifty  crowns  in  money, 
and  fifty  more  which  he  agreed  to  effimate  their  pay  at  when 
he  fliould  come  to  get  them  the  following  year."^'* 

There  was  a  captaii  of  the  favages  named  Mabretou,""' 
who  promifed  to  take  care  of  them,  and  that  they  fhould  l.e 
treated    as  kindly  as  his  own  children.     We  found    him  a 

friendly 

^*  Thefe  two  men  were  M.  La  Taille  Vide  Hi/loire  Nouvelle  France,   Paris, 

and  Miquelet,  of  whom  Lefcarhot  fpeaks  161 2,  pp.   545,  546. 

in  terms  of  entliufiallic  praile  for  tlieir  ^'-'^  Mabreton,    by    Lefcarbot  written 

patriotic  courage  in  voluntarily  rilking  Membertou. 
their  lives  for  the  good  of  New  France. 


r.y 


i  m 


I  i'5 


Ill 


A 


m 


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ii 


^  I 


111 


I 


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Pi!  'f'^ 

Ml   ■■ 


i 


tirs. 


¥  «i 


El 


^    f 


:  f 


1  :ii 


104 


Voyages  of 


friendly  favage  all  the  time  we  were  there,  although  he  had 
the  name  of  being  the  worft  and  moft  traitorous  man  of  his 
tribe. 


CHAPTER   XII. 

Departure  from  Port  Royal  to  return  to  France. — Meeting  Ral- 
LEAu  AT  Cape  Sable,  which  cav^sed  us  to  turn  back. 

N  the  1 7th  of  the  month,  in  accordance  with  the 
refolution  we  had  formed,  we  fet  out  from  the 
mouth  of  Port  Royal  with  two  barques,  one 
of  eighteen  tons,  the  other  oi  feven  or  eight, 
with  the  view  of  purfuing  the  voyage  to  Cape 
Breton  or  Canfeau.  We  anchored  in  the  ffrait  of  Long 
Illand,^^^  where  during  the  night  our  cable  broke,  and  we 
came  near  being  loft,  owing  to  the  violent  tides  which  ftrike 
upon  feveral  rocky  points  in  and  about  this  place.  But, 
through  the  diligent  exertions  of  all,  we  were  faved,  and 
efcaped  once  more. 

On  the  2ift  of  the  month  there  was  a  violent  wind,  which 
broke  the  irons  of  our  rudder  between  Long  Ifland  and 
Cape  Fourchu,  and  reduced  us  to  fuch  extremities  that  we 
were  at  a  lofs  what  to  do.  For  the  fury  of  the  fea  did  not  per- 
mit us  to  land,  fmce  the  breakers  ran  mountain  high  along 
the  coaft,  fo  that  we  relblved  to  perifli  in  the  fea  rather  than 
to  land,  hoping  that  the  wind  and  tempeft  would  abate,  lb 
that,  with  the  wind  aftern,  we  might  go  afliore  on  fome  fandy 

beach. 

"1  Petit  Paffagp,  leading  into  St.  Mary's  Bay. 


I 


Sieur  de  Chmnplain. 


105 


beach.  As  each  one  thought  by  himfelf  what  miglit  be  done 
for  our  prefervation,  a  Tailor  faid  that  a  quantity  of  cordai^c 
attached  to  the  flern  of  our  barque,  and  dragging  in  the 
water,  might  fervc  in  fome  mealure  to  fleer  our  ^•c^(el.  But 
this  was  of  no  avail ;  and  we  faw  that,  unlcis  God  fliould  aid 
us  by  other  means,  this  would  not  preferve  us  from  (hip- 
wreck.  As  we  were  thinking  what  could  be  done  for  our 
fafety,  Champdore,  who  had  been  again  handcuffed,  faid  to 
fome  of  us  that,  if  Pont  Grave  dehred  it,  he  would  find 
means  to  fleer  our  barque.  This  we  reported  to  Pont  Grave, 
who  did  not  refufe  this  offer,  and  the  reft  of  us  ftill  Icfs. 
He  accordingly  had  his  handcuffs  taken  off  the  fecond  time, 
and  at  once  taking  a  rope,  he  cut  it  and  faflened  the  rudder 
with  it  in  fuch  a  fkilful  manner  that  it  would  fleer  the  (hip 
as  well  as  ever.  In  this  way,  he  made  amends  for  the  mif- 
takes  he  had  made  leading  to  the  lofs  of  the  previous  barque, 
and  vvas  difcharfjed  from  his  accufation  throuGfh  our  entrea- 
ties  to  Pont  Grave  who,  although  fomewhat  relu6lantly, 
acceded  to  it. 

The  fame  day  we  anchored  near  La  Baye  Courante,"'  two 
leagues  from  Cape  Fourchu,  and  there  our  barque  was  re- 
paired. 

On  the  23d  of  July,  we  proceeded  near  to  Cape  Sable. 

On  the  24th  of  the  month,  at  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
we  perceived  a  fliallop,  near  Cormorant  Ifland,  coming  from 
Cape  Sable.     Some  thought  it  was  favages  going  away  from 

Cape 

1^^  La    Baye   Courante,    tlie   l).!}'    at  of  the  barque  near  tliis  bay,  two  leaj^ues 

the  mouth    of    Art(yl  or  Alniptic    Riv-  from  Ca]ie   Fourchu,  was  prol);iI)ly  near 

er,    fometimes    called     Lohller    Bay.  —  Pirickney  I'oint,    or    it  may  have  been 

Vide  CaiiipbelVs  Yay mouth  Cotiutw  N.  uniler   tiie   lee  of   one  of   the    Tufquet 

S,^  p.  13.    The  anchorage  for  the  repair  I  Hands. 

14 


\^\ 


1 1 


I 


\  I 


:i* 


<h 


','* ' 


{ 


1 06 


Voyages  of 


Cape  Rrcton  or  the  Ifland  of  Canfeau.  Others  faid  it  might 
1)c  fhallons  fent  from  Canfeau  to  get  news  of  us.  T'inally,  as 
we  approaclied  nearer,  we  faw  tliat  tliey  were  Frenclimen, 
^\•hich  delighted  us  greatly.  When  it  had  almoft  reached  us, 
we  recognized  Ralleau,  the  Secretary  of  Sieur  de  Monts, 
which  redoubled  our  joy.  He  informed  us  that  Sieur  de 
Monts  had  defjiatched  a  veffel  of  a  hundred  and  twenty  tons, 
commanded  by  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt,  who  had  come  with 
fifty  men  to  a<5t  as  Lieutenant-Gencral,  and  live  in  the  coun- 
try ;  that  he  had  landed  at  Canfeau,  whence  the  above- 
mentioned  veffel  had  gone  out  to  fca,  in  order,  if  poffible,  to 
find  us,  while  he,  meanwhile,  was  proceeding  along  the  coaft 
in  a  fliallop,  in  order  to  meet  us  in  cafe  we  fliould  have  fct 
out,  fupjiofing  we  had  dej)arted  from  Port  Royal,  as  was  in 
fa(?t  the  cafe  :  in  fo  doing,  they  acted  very  wifely.  All  this 
intelligence  caufed  us  to  turn  back;  and  we  arrived  at  Port 
Royal  on  the  25th  of  the  month,  where  we  found  the  above- 
mentioned  veffel  and  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt,  and  were  great- 
ly delighted  to  fee  realized  what  we  had  given  up  in  de- 
fpair.'**^  He  told  us  that  his  delay  had  been  caufed  by 
an  accident  which  happened  to  the  fhip  in  leaving  the  boom 

at 


1^3  Lefcarbot.  who  with  De  Poutrin- 
court was  this  vClTel,  the  ''Jonas.'' 
gives  a  very  elaborate  account  of  tlieir 
arrival  antl  reception  at  Port  Royal.     It 


ferved,  perhaps  while  they  were  repair- 
ing; their  barque  at  ISaye  Courante.  As 
Ralleau  (lid  not  join  the  "Jonas  "  till  after 
their  arrival  at  Port  Royal,  Poutrincourt 


feems   that,  at   Canfeau,   Poutrincourt,  did  not  hear   of   the  departure  of   tiie 

fuppofini;  *hat  the  colony  at  Port  Royal,  colony    till    his    arrival.      Champlain's 

not   receivinji;    expefted    fuccors,    had  dates  do  not  a.ijree  with  thofe  of  Lefcar- 

])offihly  already  embarked  for   France,  hot,  and  the  latter  is  prol)ably  correft. 

as  was  in  ixSi  the  cafe,  had  defpatched  According   to    Lefcarbot,    Poutrincourt 

a  fmall    boat  in  charge  rf   Ralleau   to  arrived    on  the  27th.   and  Pont  Gravd 

reconnoitre  the  coalt,  v,  th  the  hojje  of  with    Champlain   on   the  3ifl   of  July, 

meeting  tl'iem,  if  they  had  already  em-  Vide  His.   Aon.  France,    Paris,    1612, 

barked.  The  "Jonas  '  palTed  them  unob-  pp.  544,  547. 


Siettr  de  Cha^nplain. 


107 


at  Rochelle,  where  he  had  taken  Iiis  departure,  and  that  he 
had  been  hindered  by  bad  weather  on  his  voyage."" 

The  next  day,  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  proceeded  to  fet 
forth  his  views  as  to  what  fliould  be  done  ;  and,  in  accordance 
with  the  opinion  of  all,  he  refolved  to  flay  at  Port  Royal 
this  year,  inafmuch  as  no  difcovery  had  been  made  fnice  tlie 
departure  of  Sieur  de  Monts,  and  the  period  of  four  months 
before  winter  was  not  lonq;  enouo;h  to  learch  out  a  fite  and 
conflru6l  another  fettlement,  efpecially  in  a  large  velTel, 
unlike  a  barque  which  draws  little  water,  fearches  every- 
where, and  finds  places  to  one's  mind  for  effeciing  fcttle- 
ments.  But  he  decided  that,  during  this  period,  nothing 
more  fliould  be  done  than  to  try  to  find  fome  place  better 
adapted  for  our  abode.'*'^ 

Thus  deciding,  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  defpatched  at  once 
Ibme  laborers  to  work  on  the  land  in  a  fpot  which  he  deemed 
fuitable,  up  the  river,  a  league  and  a  half  from  the  fettlement 
of  Port  Royal,  and  where  we  had  thought  of  making  our 
abode.  Here  he  ordered  wheat,  rye,  hemp,  and  leveral  other 
kinds  of  feeds,  to  be  fown,  in  order  to  afcertain  how  they 
would  flourifli.^'"' 

On 

i**  Lefcarbot  gives  a  graphic  account  harbor  and  more  genial  climate  for  the 

of  the  accident  which  happened  to  their  colony  farther  foutli  than  Mallei  )arre,  as 

vefTel  in  the  harbor  of  Rochelle,  delay-  he  was  not  fatisfied  either  with  St.  Croix 

ing  them  more  than  a  month  :   and  the  or  Port  Royal  for  a  permanent  abode. 

bad  weather  and  the  l)ad  feamanfliip  of  —  //V/c  Lejcarbofs  His.  iXoie.  /■'raiue, 

Captain  Foulques,  who  commanded  the  Paris,  1612,  p.  552. 
"  Jonas,"  Avhicli  kept  them  at  fea  more        i"*  By  reference  to  Champlain's  draw- 

than   two    months   and    a   half. —  lu/e  ing  of  Port   Royal,  it  will  be  feen  that 

His.  Nou.  France,   Paris.  161 2,  p.  523,  the  place  of  thi.s' agricultural  experiment 

ct/eq.  was  on  the  foutliern  fide  of  Annapolis 

13''  Before    leaving    France,    i'outrin-  River,  near  tiie  mouth   of  Allen  River, 

court  had  received  inflructions  from  the  and  on  the  identical  foil  where  the  village 

patentee,  De  Mo.       to  feek  for  a  good  of  Annapolis  now  Hands. 


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On  the  2 2d  of  Aiigufl,  a  fmall  barque  was  fccn  approach- 
ing our  fcttlcmcnt.  It  was  that  of  Des  /Vntons,  of  St.  Malo, 
who  had  come  from  Canfeau,  where  his  vclTel  was  engaged 
in  fifliing,  to  inform  us  that  there  were  fome  veffels  about 
Cape  Breton  engaged  in  the  fur-trade ;  and  that,  if  we 
would  fend  our  fhip,  we  might  capture  them  on  the  point 
of  returning  to  France.  It  was  determined  to  do  fo  as  foon 
as  Ibme  fupplies,  which  were  in  the  fhip,  could  be  unloaded.'"^ 

This  being  done,  Pont  Grave  embarked,  together  with 
his  companions,  who  had  wintered  with  him  at  Port  Royal, 
excepting  Champdore  and  P""oulgere  de  Vitre.  I  alfo  flayed 
with  De  Poutrincourt,  in  order,  with  God's  help,  to  complet-e 
the  map  of  the  coafls  and  countries  which  I  had  commenced. 
Every  thing  being  put  in  order  in  the  fettlement,  Sieur  de 
Poutrincourt  ordered  provifions  to  be  taken  on  board  for  our 
voyage  along  the  coafl;  of  F'lorida. 

On  the  29th  of  Auguft,  we  fet  out  from  Port  Royal,  as  did 

also  Pont  Grave  and  Des  Antons,  who  were  bound  for  Cape 

Breton  and  Canfeau,  to  feize  the  veffels  which  were  engaging 

in  the  fur-trade,  as  I  have  before  ftated.     After  getting  out 

to   Tea,   we  were  obliged   to  put  back  on  account   of   bad 

weather.     But  the  large  veffel  kept  on  her  courfe,  and  we 

foon  lofl  fight  of  her. 

CHAPTER   XIII. 

*^^  It  appears  that  this  fur-trader  was  fence.     Tliey  did  not  fucceed  in  captur- 

one  Boyer,  of  Rouen,  who  had  been  de-  ing  him  at  Canfeau.  — Vide  His.  Noii. 

livered  from  jjrifon  at  Rochelle  by  Pou-  France,  par  Lefcarbot,   Paris,  161 2,  p. 

trincourt's  lenity,  where    he   liad  been  553. 
incarcerated  probably  for  the  fame  of- 


i 


I 

li 


Sieur  de  Chainplain, 


109 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

SiRUR   DE    POUTKINCOUKT   SF.Tv    OUT   FROM    POKT    ROYAL    TO    MAKK     DlSCOV- 
F.K\»;s.   — Ail    that    was    seen,    AWi>    WHAT     TOOK     pLACE    AS    FAR    AS 

Mauleuauke. 

\  the  5th  of  September,  we  fet  out  again  from 
Port  Royal. 

On  the  7th,  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the 
river  St.  Croix,  where  we  found  a  large  number 
of  favages,  among  others  Secondon  and  Meffa- 
mouet.  We  came  near  being  loft  there  on  a  rocky  iflet,  on 
account  of  Chamj^dore's  ufual  obftinacy. 

The  next  day  we  proceeded  in  a  fhallop  to  the  Ifland  of 
St.  Croix,  where  Sieur  de  Monts  had  wintered,  to  fee  if  we 
could  find  any  fpikes  of  wheat  and  other  feeds  which  we  had 
planted  there.  We  f(iund  fome  wheat  which  had  fallen  on 
the  ground,  and  come  up  as  finely  as  one  could  wilh ;  alfo  a 
large  number  of  garden  vegetables,  which  alfo  had  come  up 
fair  ?nd  large.  It  gave  us  great  fatisfadlion  to  fee  that  the 
foil  there  was  good  and  fertile. 

After  vifiting  the  ifland,  we  returned  to  our  barque,  which 
was  one  of  eighteen  tons,  on  the  way  catching  a  large  num- 
ber of  mackerel,  which  are  abundant  there  at  this  feafon.  It 
was  decided  to  continue  the  voyage  along  the  coaft,  which 
was  not  a  very  well-confidered  conclufion,  fince  we  lofl  much 
time  in  paffing  over  again  the  difcoveries  made  by  Sieur  de 
Monts  as  far  as  the  harbor  of   Mallebarre.     It  would  have 

been 


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been  much  better,  in  my  opinion,  to  crofs  from  where  we 
were  dirertly  to  Mallebarre,  the  route  beini;  ahx'ady  known, 
and  then  ufe  our  time  in  exploring  as  far  as  the  fortieth 
degree,  or  fliil  farther  fouth,  revifiting,  upon  our  homeward 
voyage,  the  entire  coaft  at  pleafure. 

After  this  deciiion,  we  took  with  us  Secondon  and  IVIeffa- 
mouet,  who  went  as  far  us  Choliacoet  in  a  fliallop,  where  they 
wifhed  to  make  an  alliance  with  \\vi  people  of  the  country, 
by  offering  them  fome  prefents. 

On  the  1 2th  of  September,  we  fet  out  from  the  river  St. 
Croix. 

On  the  2ifl:,  we  arrived  at  Choliacoet,  where  we  faw  One- 
mechin,  chief  of  the  river,  and  Marchin,  who  had  harvefted 
their  corn.  We  faw  at  the  Ifland  of  Bacchus  ''*  fome  grapes 
which  were  ripe  and  very  good,  and  fome  others  not  yet  ripe, 
as  fine  as  thofe  in  France;  and  I  am  fure  that,  if  they  were 
cultivated,  they  would  produce  good  wine. 

In  this  place,  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  fecured  a  prifoner  that 
Onemechin  had,  to  whom  Meffamouet  ^"^  made  prefents  of 

kettles. 


^"8  Richmond  Ifland.  —  Vide  antca^ 
note  123.  The  ripe  grapes  which  he 
faw  were  the  Fox  (ira])e.  litis  labntfca, 
which  ripens  in  September.  The  fruit 
is  of  a  dark  purple  color,  tough  and 
niufky.  The  Ifaliella.  common  in  our 
markets,  is  derived  from  it.  It  is  not 
quite  clear  whether  thofe  feen  in  an  un- 
ripe Itate  were  another  fpecies  or  not. 
If  they  were,  they  were  the  I'^roft  Grape, 
Vitix  cordifolia,  whicli  are  found  in  the 
northern  parts  of  New  England.  The 
berry  is  i'liiail,  black  or  blue,  having  a 
bloom,  highly  acid,  and  ripens  after 
frolls.  This  idand,  fo  prolific  in  grapes, 
became  afterward  a  centre  of  commer- 


cial importance.  On  JofTelyn's  voyage 
of  1638,  he  fays  :  "The  Six  and  twen- 
tieth day,  Capt.  Thotiias  Caiiituock  went 
aboard  of  a  Harke  of  300  Tuns,  laden 
with  Ifland  Wine,  and  but  7  men  in  her, 
and  never  a  Gun,  bound  for  Richuwnds 
Ifland,  Set  out  by  Mr.  Trelar.ey,  oi Pli- 
wouth.'''' —  Voyages,  1675,  Bofton,  Vea- 
zie's  ed.,  1865,  p.  12. 

18"  MeiTamouct  was  a  chief  from  the 
Port  de  la  Hibve,  and  was  accompanied 
by  Secondon,  alfo  a  chief  from  the  river 
St.  John.  They  had  come  to  Saco  to 
difpole  of  a  quantity  of  goods  which 
tliey  had  obtained  from  the  French 
fur-traders.     Mellamouet   made  an  ad- 

drefs 


SX' 


l\.    — ^ 


Sieur  de  CIiaDiplain, 


1 1 1 


kettles,  hatchets,  knives,  and  other  things.  Onenicchin 
reciprocated  the  fame  with  Indian  corn,  fqiiailies,  and  Bra- 
zilian beans ;  which  was  not  very  fatihfav^lory  to  MelTaniouet, 
who  went  away  very  ill-difpofed  towards  them  for  not  prop- 
erly recognizing  his  prefents,  and  with  the  intention  of  mak- 
ing war  upon  them  in  a  (hort  time.  h"or  thefe  nations  give 
only  in  exchange  for  fomething  in  return,  except  to  thofe 
who  have  done  them  a  Ipecial  fervice,  as  by  affiding  them  in 
their  wars. 

Continuing  our  courfe,  we  proceeded  to  the  Ifland  Cape,""" 
where  we  encountered  rather  bad  weather  and  focrs,  and  faw 
little  profpecl  of  being  able  to  fpend  the  night  under  fhelter, 
fince  the  locality  was  not  favorable  for  this.  While  we  were 
thus  in  perplexity,  it  occurred  to  me  that,  while  coafling  along 
with  Sieur  de  Monts,  I  had  noted  on  my  map,  at  a  diflance 
of  p.  league  from  here,  a  place  which  fecmed  fuitablc  for 
veflels,  but  which  we  did  not  enter,  becaufe,  when  we  paffed 
it,  the  wind  was  fax'orable  for  continuing  on  our  courfe. 
This  place  we  had  already  paffed,  which  led  me  to  fuggeft  to 
Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  that  we  fliould  (land  in  for  a  point  in 
fight,  where  the  place  in  queflion  was,  which  feemed  to  me 
favorable  for  paffmg  the  night.  We  proceeded  to  anchor  at 
the  mouth,  and  went  in  the  next  day.-"' 

Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  landed  with  eight  or  ten  of  our 
company.     We  faw  fome  very  fine  grapes  just  ripe,  Brazilian 

peas, 


20"  Cape  Anne. 

'-'°i  (ilouceller    Bay,    formerly   called 


drefs  on  the  occafion.  in  wliicli  he  rtated 

that  he  had  been  in   France,  and  had 

been  entertained  at  the  houfe  of  Mons.     Cajjc  i\nne   Harbnr.'which,  as 'we  (hall 

de   C.randniont,  yovernor  of    Hayonne.     fee  farther  on,   they  named    Beuuport, 

—  /  'i(fe  J  lis.  Non.  France,  par  Lefcar-     the  beautiful  harbor. 

bot,  Paris,  1612,  p.  559,  etfcq. 


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peas,""  pumpkins,  fquaflies,  and  very  good  roots,  which  the 
favages  cultivate,  having  a  tafte  fimilar  to  that  of  chards.'"^ 
They  made  us  prefcnts  of  fome  of  thefe,  in  exchange  for  little 
trifles  which  we  gave  them.  They  had  already  finifhed  their 
harvefl.  We  faw  two  Jumdred  favages  in  this  very  pleafant 
place ;  and  there  are  here  a  large  number  '"*  of  very  fine  wal- 
nut-trees,^""' cypreffes,  faffafras,  oaks,  aflies,  and  beeches.     The 

chief 


202  Brazilian  peas.  This  fliould  un- 
doubtedly read  Hrazilian  beans.  Pais 
i/ii  liit'Jil  is  here  ufed  apparently  by 
1)1  i  Hake  for  fcbues  tin  Brdjil. —  Vide 
aiitiii,  note  127. 

2*"  Cliarrls,  a  vepetalile  difli.  compofed 
f)rthef()i)tll()cl<sandmiJril)ofartichoi<es, 
( an.oDiis.  or  white  beets.  The  "  very 
jfo  1(1  roots,"  lies  racines  qui  font  bonnes, 
were  Jerufalem  Artichokes,  Hcliunthns 
tii/wrofus,  indijienous  to  the  n(jrthern 
])art  of  this  continent.  The  Italians  had 
obtained  it  before  Champlain's  time,  and 
named  it  Girirfolc,  their  word  for  fun- 
Hower,  of  which  the  artichoke  is  a 
f|)ccies.  This  word,  j,v;v?/(Vf-,  has  been 
fiii<jularly  corrupted  in  Enj^land  into 
Joufalcni;  hence  Jerufalem  articlioke, 
now  the  common  name  of  this  plant. 
We  prefume  that  there  is  no  inllance 
on  record  of  its  earlier  cultivation  in 
New  Knoland  than  at  Naufet  in  1605, 
I'idc  antea,  p.  82,  and  here  at  Gloucef- 
ter  in  1606. 

-**■»  Under  the  word  noyers,  walnut- 
trees,  Champlain  may  have  compre- 
hended the  hickories.  Carya  alba  and 
porcina,  and  perhaps  tlie  butternut,  yui;;- 
lans  cincrea.  all  of  which  mi<iht  have 
l)'?en  feen  at  Glouceller.  It  is  clear  from 
his  dcfcription  that  he  faw  at  Saco  the 
hickory,  Cirya  poniua,  commonly 
known  as  the  pi.s;-nut  or  b'^oom  hickory. 
He  proliably  faw  likewife  the  fliajj-bark, 
Carya  alba,  as  both  are  found  growing 
wild  there  even  at  the  prefent  day.  — 


Vide  atitea,  p.  67.  Both  the  butternut 
and  the  hickories  are  exclufively  of 
American  origin ;  and  there  was  no 
French  name  i)y  which  they  could  be 
more  accurately  defiynated.  A'oyer  is 
applied  in  Fr.mce  to  the  tree  which  pro- 
duces the  nut  known  in  our  markets  as 
the  Eni^lifli  walnut.  Joflelyn  figures  the 
hickory  under  the  name  of  walnut.  — 
Vide  New  Enir.  Rarities,  Tuckerman's 
ed.,  p.  97.  See  alfo  IVthuPs  Ntv>  Eni>. 
rrofpccl,  1634,  I'rince  Soc.  ed.,  p.  18.' 

'■*5  The  trees  here  mentioned  are  fuch 
prol)ably  as  api)eared  to  Champlain  ef- 
pecially  valuable  for  timber  or  other 
pradlical  ufes. 

The  cyprefs,  cyprh,  has  been  already 
referred  to  in  note  168.  It  is  diilin- 
guiflied  for  its  durability,  its  power  of 
refirting  the  ufual  agencies  of  decay,  and 
is  widely  ufed  for  ports,  and  fleepers  on 
the  track  of  railways,  and  to  a  limited 
extent  for  caljinet  work,  but  lefs  now 
than  in  earlier  times.  William  Wood 
fays  of  it :  "  This  wood  is  more  defired 
for  ornament  than  fubftance,  being  of 
color  red  and  white,  like  Eugh,  fmelling 
as  fweete  as  luniper:  it  is  commonly 
ufed  for  feeling  of  houfes,  and  making 
of  Cherts,  boxes  and  rtaves." —  VVood^s 
A^ew  Kn^^.  ProfpeH,  1634,  Prince  Soc. 
ed.,  p.  19. 

The  faffafras,  Saffafras  officinale,  is 
indigenous  lo  this  continent,  and  has  a 
fpicy,  aromatic  flavor,  efpecially  the  l)ark 
and  root.     It  was  in  great  repute  as  a 

medicine 


l!^^  -.- 


v 

*\l». 


Siear  de  Chcanplain. 


113 


i 


chief  of  this  place  is  named  Quiouhamcnec,  who  came  to 
fee  us  with  a  neighbor  of  his,  named  Cohoiiepech,  whom 
we  entertained  fumptuoufly.  Onemechin,  chief  of  Choiia- 
coet,  came  alfo  to  fee  us,  to  whom  we  gave  a  coat,  which  he, 
however,  did  not  keep  a  long  time,  but  made  a  prefent  of 
it  to  another,  fmce  he  was  uneafy  in  it,  and  could  not  adapt 
himfelf  to  it.  We  faw  alfo  a  favage  here,  who  had  fo 
wounded  himfelf  in  the  foot,  and  lofl  fo  much  blood,  that 
he  fell  down  in  a  fwoon.  Many  others  furrounded  him,  and 
fang  fome  time  before  touching  him.  Afterwards,  they  made 
fome  motions  with  their  feet  and  hands,  fliook  his  head  and 
breathed  upon  him,  when  he  came  to  himfelf.  Our  furgeon 
drelTed  his  wounds,  when  he  went  off  in  good  fpirits. 

The  next  day,  as  we  were  calkinr  our  fhallop,  Si2ur  de 
Poutrincourt  in  the  woods  noticed  a  number  of  favages  who 
were  going,  with  the  intention  of  doing  us  fome  mifchicf, 
to  a  little  ftream,  where  a  neck  conneds  with  the  main  land, 
at  which  our  party  were  doing  their  wafhing.  As  I  was 
walking  along  this  neck,  thefe  favages  noticed  me ;  and,  in 

order 

medicine  for  a  long  time  after  the  dif-  Oaks,  cfiefnes,  of  wliich  feveral  of  the 

covery  of  this  country.     Cargoes  of  it  larger  fpecies  may  have  been  feen  :  as, 

were  often   taken  home  by   the  early  the  white  oak,  Querciis  alba;  black  oak, 

voyagers  for  the  European  markets  ;  and  Quercus  tinfloria  j  fcarlet  oak,  Quercus 

it  is  faid  to  have  fold  as  high  as  fifty  coccinea;  and  red  oak,  (luercus  rubra. 

livres  per  pound.     Dr.  Jacob  Bigelow  AHi-trees./rt/w^j,  probably  the  white 

fays  a  work  entitled  "  Saflafrafologia  "  afli,  Fraxinus  Americana,  and  not  un- 

was  written  to  celebrate  its  virtues  ;  but  likely  the  black  afh,  Fraxintis  fambuci- 

its  properties  are  only  thofe  of  warm  aro-  folia,  both  valuable  as  timber, 

matics.     JoiTelyn  defcribes  it,  and  adds  Beech-trees,  hejlrcs,  of  which  there  is 

that  it  does  not  "grow  beyond  Black  but  a  fmgle  fpecies,  Fagus  femnrinca. 

Point  eaftward,"  which  is  a  few  miles  the  American  beech,  a  handfome  tree, 

north-eaft  of  Old  Orchard  Beach,  near  of    fymmetrical     growth,     and    clean, 

Saco,  in   Maine.     It  is  met  with  now  fmooth,  afh-gray  bark  :  the  nut.  of  trian- 

infrequently  in   New  Endand  :  feveral  gular  fhape,  is  fweet  and  palatable.    The 

fpecimens,  however,  may  be  feen  in  the  wood  is  brittle,  and  I'.fed  only  for  a  few 

Granary  Burial  Ground  in  Boflon.  purpofes. 

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Voyages  of 


order  to  put  a  good  face  upon  it,  fince  they  faw  that  I  had 
difcovercd  them  thus  feafonably,  tliey  began  to  Ihout  and 
dance,  and  then  came  towards  me  with  their  bows,  arrows, 
quivers,  and  other  arms.  And,  inafmuch  as  there  was  a 
meadow  between  them  and  myfelf,  I  made  a  fign  to  them  to 

dance 


Champlain's  Explanation  of  the  accompanying  Map. 

Le  Ukau  Port. 
The  figures  indicate  fathoms  of  water. 

A.  Place  where  our  harnue  was.  B.  Meadows.  C.  Small  ifland.^  D. 
Rocky  cape.  E.  Place  where  we  had  our  fliallop  calked.*^  f.  Little  rocky 
iflet,  very  hiijh  on  the  coaf^.^  G.  Cahins  of  the  favages  and  where  they  till  the 
foil.  //.  Little  river  where  there  are  meadows.*  /.  Brook.  L.  Tongue  of  land 
covered  with  trees,  including  a  large  number  of  fafiafras,  walnut-trees,  and  vines.^ 
M.  Arm  of  the  fea  on  the  other  fide  of  the  iland  Cape.'  N.  Little  River.  O. 
Little  brook  coming  from  the  meadows.  /'.  Anotlier  littie  brook  where  we  did 
our  wafhin.!;.  Q.  Troop  of  favages  coming  to  furprife  us.''  R.  Sandy  ftrand.* 
S.  Sea-coaft.  T.  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  in  ambufcade  with  fome  feven  or  eight 
arquebufiers.     V.  Sieur  de  Champlain  difcovering  the  favages. 

NoTKS.  Le  Bean  Port  is  Gloucefter.  ^  Ten-Pound  Ifland.  It  is  forty 
rods  long  and  thirty  feet  high.  On  it  is  a  U.  S.  Light,  fifty  feet  above  the  fea- 
level.  2  This  peninfula  is  now  called  Rocky  Neck.  Its  fouthern  part  and  the 
caufeway  which  connefts  it  with  the  main  land  are  now  thickly  fettled.  *  This  is 
Salt  Ifland.  *  This  is  the  fmall  llream  that  flows  into  f>cfh-Water  Cove.  *  This 
is  now  called  Eallern  Point,  is  three  quarters  of  a  mile  long,  and  about  half  a  mile 
in  its  greatcll  width.  At  its  foutliern  extremity  is  a  U.  S.  Light,  fi.\ty  feet  above 
the  fea-level.  The  fcattering  rocks  figured  by  Champlain  on  its  wellern  fliore  are 
now  known  as  Black  Befs.  "  Squam  River,  flowing  into  Annifquam  Harbor. 
^  They  were  creeping  along  the  eallern  bank  of  Smith's  Cove.  **  The  beach 
of  Soiith-Eaft  Harbor.  A  comparifon  of  his  map  with  the  Coart  Survey  Charts 
will  exhil)it  its  furprifing  accuracy,  efpecially  when  we  make  allowance  for  the 
facl  that  it  is  merely  a  fketch  executed  without  meafurements,  and  with  a  very 
brief  vifit  to  the  locality.  The  projection  or  cape  well  of  Ten-Pound  Iflana, 
including  .Stage  Head,  may  be  eafdy  identified,  as  likewife  Fort  Point  direttly 
north  of  the  fame  ifland,  as  feen  on  our  maps,  but  north-wetl  on  that  of  Cham- 
plain, fliowing  that  his  map  is  oriented  with  an  inclination  to  the  weft.  The 
moft  obvious  defedl  is  the  forefliortening  of  tiie  Inner  Harbor,  which  requires 
much  greater  elongation. 


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iiiclu.*'-!;;-  St:i,:.'i  i!'."ii!.  im,i_,  "  '^  c  ii;l)  i'lriiTiiicI.  .is  likov.nt  f-or;  !'  'itii.  uin;..;iv 
n.irt''  <M  the  iMHT-  iilaii'l.  ;i.-:  !c<'.».  ■..■  '  "i.r  n?  ij/S.  iiir  .••iiir'Ii-wcst  on  I'l:',:  of  < 'h  i.i\ 
yuhi,  1,i(i\\i"'4  lH:it  i'.is  iiri;-  .s  I'l-iciMv-i  uii'i  .in  :!i'.''M.;'i(in  fo  iIk-  *' .  i  .  'i  hi.- 
'roll  nir.  :!~'U'i  fli'fn  t  is  ;,i  0  iOicllw.'itjriii^;;  ot  ':  ;•  Uhm  t  n.sr'Kir  wliil,  K-q:!'!.-s 
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Sicnr  dc  Cluunplain.  1 1 5 

dance  ai^iiin.  This  tliL'y  did  in  a  circle,  i)uttinir  all  their 
arms  in  the  middle.  Hut  they  had  hardly  conmienced,  when 
they  obferved  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  in  the  wood  with  eight 
nuilketeers,  which  frightened  them.  Yet  they  did  not  Hop 
until  they  had  fmifhed  their  dance,  when  they  withdrew  in 
all  dirc6ti()ns,  fearing  left  Ibme  unpleafant  turn  might  he 
ferved  them.  We  (aid  nothing  to  them,  however,  and  Ihowed 
them  only  demonllrations  of  gladnefs.  'I'hen  we  returned  to 
launch  our  (hallop,  and  take  our  departure.  They  entreated 
us  to  wait  a  day,  faying  that  more  than  two  thoufand  of  them 
would  come  to  fee  us.  But,  unable  to  lofe  any  time,  we  were 
unwilling  to  ftay  here  longer.  I  am  of  opinion  that  their 
object  was  to  furprife  us.  .Some  of  the  land  was  ali-eady 
cleared  up,  and  they  were  conllantly  making  clearings.  Their 
mode  of  doing  it  is  as  follows  :  after  cutting  down  the  trees 
at  the  dillance  of  three  feet  from  the  ground,  they  burn  the 
branches  upon  the  trimk,  and  then  plant  their  corn  between 
thele  flumps,  in  courfe  of  time  tearing  up  alfo  the  roots. 
There  are  likewife  fine  meadows  here,  cai)able  of  fupijorting 
a  large  number  of  cattle.  This  harbor  is  very  fine,  contain- 
ing water  enough  for  veffels,  and  affording  a  (belter  from  the 
weather  behind  the  iflands.  It  is  in  latitude  43",  and  we 
gave  it  the  name  of  Le  Beauport.-"" 

The  laft  day  of  September  we  fet  out  from  Beauport, 
and,  paffmg  Cap  St.  Louis,  flood  on  our  courfe  all  night 
for  Cap  Blanc.-"^     In  the  morning,  an  hour  before  daylight, 

we 

''^^  Le  He;iuport.   Thelaliludeof  Ten-  '^'^'^  The  reader  may  l)e  reminded  th;it 

Pound    niand,  near  where  llie    Frencli  Cap   St.    I.ouis   is    IJrant    Point:    Cap 

barque  was  anciiored  in  the   Harl)or  of  I>lanc  is  Cape  Cod  :  and   Haye  P)ianciie 

(^iouceller,  is  42'^  3(/  5".  is  Cape  Cod  Pay. 


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VoycJi^c's  of 


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wc  found  Durfclvcs  to  the  leeward  of  Caj)  I^lanc,  in  Haye 
IJIatichc,  with  c'i;^ht  fcut  of  water,  and  at  a  dillancc  of  a 
leai^uc  from  the  Ihorc.  Here  we  aiK^liored,  in  order  not  to 
approach  too  near  before  daylight,  and  to  fee  how  the  tide 
was.  Meanwhili",  we  fent  our  Ihallop  to  make  foundini^s. 
Only  eis^ht  feet  of  water  were  found,  To  that  it  was  neceffary 
to  determine  before  daylii^ht  what  we  would  do.  The  water 
Tank  as  low  as  five  feet,  and  our  barcjue  fometimes  touched 
on  the  fand,  yet  without  any  injury,  for  the  water  was  calm, 
and  we  had  not  lefs  than  three  feet  of  water  under  us. 
Then  the  tide  began  to  life,  which  gave  us  encouragement. 

When  it  was  day,  we  faw  a  very  low,  Tandy  Ihore,  off  which 
wc  were,  and  more  to  the  leeward.  A  fhallop  was  fent  to  make 
foundings  in  the  diredlion  of  land  fomewhat  high,  where  wc 
thought  there  would  be  deep  water  ;  and,  in  fa61:,  we  found  feven 
fathoms.  Here  we  anchored,  and  at  once  got  ready  the  fhal- 
lop, with  nine  or  ten  men  to  land  and  examine  a  place  where 
we  thought  there  was  a  good  harbor  to  Ihelter  ourfelves  in, 
if  the  wind  lliould  increafe.  An  examination  having  been 
made,  we  entered  in  two,  three,  and  four  fathoms  of  water. 
When  we  were  infide,  we  found  five  and  fix.  There  were 
many  very  good  oyflers  here,  which  we  had  not  feen  before, 
and  we  named  the  place  Port  aux  Huiflres.-"'*  It  is  in  lati- 
tude 


-"*    /.<■    P<nt    aux   Ifuijhrs,    Oyfler  the  inattention  of  their  pilot,  or  all  thefc 

Ilarhor.     Tiie    reader  will   ohferve,  by  toj,ether,  tlu-y  had  palled  to  the  leeward 

looking  hack  a  few  leniences  in  the  nar-  of  the  point  aimed  at,  and  l>efore  niorn- 

»-ative,   that   the    French  coallers,  after  injjj   found   thenifelves   near    a    harbor, 

eavinii  Cap   St.    Lonis,  that    is,    Brant  wliich    they    fiibrecpiently    entered,    in 

'oint,  had  aimed  to  double  Cajjc  Cod,  Cape   Cod    15ay.     It   is   plain   tiiat    this 

and  had  directed   their  courle,  as  tliey  port,  which  they  named  ( )yller  Harbor, 

fuijpofed,    to   accomplilh    tliis    purpofe.  was  either   that   of   Welltleet  or    i>arn- 

Owini,',  however,  to  the  llrength  of  the  (table.      The  former,  it  will  be  remem- 

wind,  or  the  darknefs  of  the  ni^dit,  or  bered,     Champlain,    with     De    Monts, 

entered 


'.7 


4 


Si'ciir  dc  Cliivnplain. 


117 


tiiclc  42'''.  Three  canoes  of  ravages  came  out  to  us.  On 
this  clay,  the  wind  coniiiiLj  round  in  our  favor,  .v-e  \vei<;hed 
anchor  to  «j;o  to  Cap  Hlanc,  diilant  from  here  tive  leagues 
north  a  quarter  north-eaJl,  and  we  doubled  the  cape. 

On  tlie  ne.\t  day,  the  id  of  October,  we  arrived  off  Malle- 
barre,"""  where  we  flaved  Tome  time  on  account  of  the  bad 
WL-atlier.  During  tliis  time,  Sieur  de  Toutrincourt,  with  the 
(liallop,  accompanied  by  twelve  or  fifteen  men,  vifited  the 
harbor,  where  fome   hundred  and   fifty  fava<>es,  fiivj^intr  and 


entered  tlic  prccciliiii^  year,  1605, 
and  named  it.  or  tlie  river  that  flows 
into  it.  .St.  .Su/T.iniie  du  Cap  IManc.  — 
/'/(/(•  aiitiii,  note  \(\C\,  It  is  ohvions 
th.it  Cliaini)l,iin  could  not  ii.ive  entLTuil 
this  liarliur  tiie  lecoiiii  tinic  witliout  rcc- 
otriiizini;  it  :  and.  if  lie  had  done  fo,  he 
would  not  have  i;iven  to  it  a  n.une  en- 
tirely diffiTent  from  that  wliirh  he  hid 
j,nven  it  the  year  before,  lie  was  too 
tarelul  an  obferver  to  fall  into  lin  h  an 
extraordinary  millakc.  We  may  con- 
clude, therdore.  that  the  jiort  'i  (|uetlioii 
was  not  Wellllect,  liiit  H.irnlhi'  le.  This 
conchuion  is  lullaincd  iiy  the  conditions 
mentioned  in  the  te.xt.  'I'hey  entered, 
on  a  (lood-tide.  in  twelve,  eit^liteen,  and 
twenty  four  feet  of  water,  and  fou:id 
tiiirty  or  tliirty-li\  when  tlu'y  had  palled 
into  the  harlmr.  It  could  hanlivhe  ex- 
jiecled  th.il  any  h.irbor  .iinoii.<(  the  liilfl- 
inj;  fand.s  of  Cape  Cod  would  remain 
prccilelv  the  fame,  as  to  tlejjth  of  water, 
after  llie  lajiCe  of  two  luiiidred  and  tifty 
years.  Neverthelefs,  tiie  difcrepancy 
is  lb  lliylit  in  this  cafe,  that  it  would 
feem  to  be  accidental,  rather  tlian  to 
arife  from  the  folidity  or  fixednefs  of  the 
harlior  bed.  The  channel  nf  liarnllable 
Harbor,  accordiiit;  to  the  Coall  Survey 
Charts,  v.'.ries  in  depth  at  low  tide,  for 
two  miles  oullkie  of  Sandy  Neck  I'oint, 
from  feven  to  ten  feet  for  the  firll  mile, 


dancinir 

o 

and  for  llie  ne.xt  mile  from  ten  feet  to 
tliirty-two  on  reachini;  Heach  I'oint, 
wliic  li  m.iy  be  confidereil  the  entrance 
of  the  b.iy.  On  palling  the  I'oint,  we 
have  thirtN-fix  and  a  half  feet,  and  for  a 
mile  inward  thetleptii  v;.ries  from  twel\e 
to  twenty  feet.  .Add  a  few  feet  for  the 
rife  of  the  tide  on  which  they  entered, 
ami  the  de])tli  of  the  water  in  lOo'^i  couhl 
not  have  been  very  ditferenl  from  that 
of  to-day.  The  "  low  fandy  co.ill  "  wlTu  h 
they  law  is  well  reprel'enteil  by  Sprini^ 
Hill  ISe.icii  and  S.iiidy  .Xeck  ;  the  "  land 
foinewliat  hi^^li,"  by  the  ran^e  of  hills  in 
the  rear  of  liirnilible  Harbor.  'l"he 
dillaiice  from  the  nuailh  of  ilie  harbor 
to  Wood  Knd  li,t,dit,  the  ne'rell  point  on 
Cape  Cod,  does  not  v.iry  more  th.m  a 
league,  and  its  direelinn  is  about  that 
mentioned  by  C;  Miiplain.  Tlie  differ- 
ence in  latitude  's  not  .L;reater  than 
ufual.  It  is  never  fufficiently  exact  for 
the  ideiititicatiini  of  any  locality.  The 
fuiillintial  a;^reement,  ill  fo  many  p.irtic- 
ulars  will)  the  narrative  of  the  author, 
renders  it  ([uite  clear  that  the  J'oit  iiu.v 
lluijbes  was  IJarnllable  Harbor.  They 
entered  it  on  the  mornini; of  the  ill  of 
October,  ami  appear  to  have  left  on  the 
fame  day.  Sandy  Neck  li^ht,  at  the 
entr.ince  of  the 

41°  43'   !(/ 


larbor,  is   in   latitmle 


'I 


if') 


•■'»«  Naufet  Harbor. 


i 


'I 


/ 


ii8 


Voyages  of 


dancing  according  to  their  cuHom,  appeared  before  him. 
After  feeing  this  place,  we  returned  to  our  veffel,  and,  the 
wind  coming  favorable,  failed  along  the  coaft:  towards  the 
fouth. 


I  I 


If 


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% 


\    &' 


^1 

It      .  * 

If     ^' 

n 
111 

I 


1 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

Continuation  ok  thf,  above  Discoveries,  and  what  was  ohserved 

OF  Pakticulak  Importance. 


MEN  we  were  fomc  fix  leaoues  from  Mallebarre, 
we  anchored  near  the  coaft,  the  wind  not  being 
fair,  along  which  we  obfervcd  columns  of  fmoke 
made  by  the  favages,  which  led  us  to  determine 
to  go  to  therii,  for  which  purpofe  the  fliallop 
was  made  ready.  But  when  near  the  coaft,  which  is  fandy, 
we  could  not  land,  for  the  fwell  was  too  great.  Seeing  this, 
the  faxages  launched  a  canoe,  and  came  out  to  us,  eight  or 
nine  of  them,  finging  and  making  figns  of  their  joy  at  feeing 
us,  and  they  indicated  to  us  that  lower  down  there  was  a 
harbor  where  we  could  put  our  barque  in  a  place  of  fecurity. 
Unable  to  land,  the  fliallop  came  back  to  the  barque;  and  the 
favages,  whom  we  had  treated  civilly,  returned  to  the  fliore. 

On  the  next  day,  the  wind  being  favorable,  we  continued 
our  courfe  to  the  north  ""^  five  leagues,  and  hardly  had  we 
Cfone  this  diftance,  when  we  found  three  and  four  fathoms  of 
water  at  a  diftance  of  a  league  and  a  half  from  the  lliore. 
On  going  a  little  farther,  the  depth  fuddenly  diminiflied  to  a 
fathom  and  a  half  and  two  fathoms,  which  alarmed  us,  fmcc 

we 

•iio  Clenrlya  mitlake.  Cliamplain  here     wliereas.  the  wliole  context  Hiows  that 
fays  they  "continued  their  courfe  north,"     they  niuH  have  gone  fouth. 


*ii 


W\ 


»  » 


Sic7ir  de  Chaviplain.  1 1 9 

wc  faw  tlie  fea  breaking  all  around,  but  no  palTagc  by  which 
we  could  retrace  our  courfe,  for  the  wind  was  directly  con- 
trary. 

Accordingly  being  (hut  in  among  the  breakers  and  fand- 
banks,  we  had  to  go  at  hap-hazard  where  there  feenied  to  be 
the  mofi:  water  for  our  barque,  which  was  at  niofi:  only  four 
feet:  we  continued  among  thefe  breakers  until  we  found  as 
much  as  four  feet  and  a  half.  Innally,  we  fucceeded,  by  the 
grace  of  God,  in  going  over  a  Tandy  point  running  out  nearly 
three  leagues  feaward  to  the  fouth-fouth-eafl:,  and  a  \ery  dan- 
gerous place.-"  Doubling  this  cape,  which  we  named  Can 
Batturier,-'-'  which  is  twelve  or  thirteen  leagues  from  Malle- 
barre,-''*  we  anchored  in  tvo  and  a  half  fathoms  of  water, 
lince  we  faw  ourfelves  furrounded  on  all  fides  liv  breakers 
and  flioals,  except  in  fomc  places  where  the  fea  was  breaking 

but 


-'^  ''The  fandy  point  riinniiii;  out 
nearly  three  leatrucs  "  was  evidently  tlie 
illand'  of  Alonomoy,  cr  its  reiirefenlative, 
which  at  tliat  time  may  liave  been  only  a 
continuation  of  the  main  Luid.  Cham- 
plain  does  not  delineate  on  his  map  an 
illand,  hut  a  fand-bank  nearly  in  the 
Ihape  of  an  ifofceles  triani;le,  which  ex- 
tends far  to  the  fouth-ealf.  \'ery  s^reat 
changes  have  undoubtedly  taken  place 
on  this  part  of  the  coall  fince  the  vifit 
of  Champlain.  The  land-bar  figured 
by  him  has  ajiparently  been  fwept  from 
the  foutheafl  round  to  the  fouth-weft:. 
and  is  perhaps  not  very  much  changed 
in  its  general  features  except  as  to  its 
pofition.  "  We  know  from  our  lUidies 
of  fuch  (hoals,"  fays  Prof.  Mitchell,  Chief 
of  J'hylical  Hydrography,  U.  S.  Coall 
Survey,  '•  that  the  relative  order  of  banks 
and  beaches  remains  about  the  fame, 
however  the  fyftem  as    a    whole    may 


change  its  location."  —  ^Ti^fs.  Harbor 
OhUJin'JJ'toiifrs'  Report.  1873,  P-  99- 

-'-  Batturicr.  'I'his  word  is  an  ad- 
jeftive.  formed  with  the  iirojjer  termina- 
tion from  the  noun,  batiiny,  which  means 
a  bank  upon  which  the  fea  beats,  reef  or 
fand-l)ank.  Cap  luUturicr  may  there- 
fore be  rendered  fand-bank  cape,  or  tlie 
cape  of  the  fand-banks.  l>dttiirit-r  does 
not  appear  in  the  dictionaries,  and  was 
doubtlefs  coined  by  Champlain  himfeif, 
as  he  makes,  fartlier  on,  the  adjeflive 
truiiiht\  in  the  expreffion  la  riviere 
tniitihe.  from  the  noun,  t) iiite. 

213  The  dirtances  here  given  appe.ir 
to  be  greatly  overtlated.  Krom  Naufet 
to  the  fouthern  point  of  Monomoy.  as  it 
is  to-da)',  the  dillance  is  not  more  than 
fix  leag  les.  Hut,  as  the  fea  was  rough, 
anii  they  wore  apparently  mucli  delayed, 
the  dillance  might  naturally  enough  bo 
overeltimated. 


1     .. 


% 


m 


,1 


H       . 


1     > 


V    * 


M 


I20 


Voyages  of 


but  little.  The  fhallop  was  fent  to  find  a  channel,  in  order 
to  go  to  a  place,  which  we  concluded  to  be  that  which  the 
favages  had  indicated.  We  alfo  thought  there  was  a  river 
there,  where  we  could  lie  in  fccurity. 

When  our  (lialloj)  arrived  there,  our  party  landed  and 
examined  the  place,  and,  returning  with  a  favage  whom  they 
brought  off,  they  told  us  that  we  could  enter  at  full  tide, 
which  was  refolved  upon.  We  immediately  weighed  anchor, 
and,  under  the  guidance  of  the  favage  who  piloted  us,  pro- 
ceeded to  anchor  at  a  roadflead  before  the  harbor,  in  fix 
fathoms  of  water  and  a  good  bottom;^"  for  we  could  not 
enter,  as  the  niirht  overtook  us. 

On  the  next  day,  men  were  fent  to  fet  flakes  at  the  end  of 
a  fand-bank  -'"'  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  when,  the  tide 
rifing,  we  entered  in  two  fathoms  of  water.  When  we  had 
arrived,  we  praifed  God  for  being  in  a  place  of  fafety.  Our 
rudder  had  broken,  which  we  had  mended  with  ropes ;  but 
we  were  afraid  that,  amid  thefe  fliallows  and  ftrong  tides,  it 
would  break  anew,  and  we  fiiould  be  lofl.  Within  this  har- 
bor -""'  there  is  only  a  fathom  of  water,  and  two  at  full  tide. 
On  the  eaft,  there  is  a  bay  extending  back  on  the  north 
fome   three   leagues,"'"  in  which  there  is  an  ifland  and  two 

other 


^"  The  anchorage  wns  in  Chatham 
Koads,  or  Old  Sta<re  Harbor. 

-1*  Hardini;'s  Beach  Point. 

'■^^"  Tliey  were  now  in  StaLiie  Harbor, 
in  Chatham,  to  whi(  h  Champlain,  farther 
on.  f,Mves  the  name  uf  Port  Fortum'. 

-'■'  This  is  the  narrow  Imy  that 
(tretches  from  Morris  I  Hand  to  the 
norlli.  parallel  with  the  fea,  feparated 
fr'  im  it  only  by  a  fand-bank,  and  now 
r    iching  beyond  Chatham  into  the  town 


of  Orleans.  By  comparinc;  Champlain's 
map  of  Fort  Fortund  with  modern  charts, 
it  will  be  fecn  that  the  "bay  extending 
back  on  the  north  fome  three  leagues  " 
terminated,  in  i6o6,  a  little  below  Chat- 
ham Old  Harbor.  The  illand  on  Cham- 
plain's  map  marked  G.  was  a  little  above 
the  harbor,  but  has  been  entirely  fwept 
away,  together  with  the  neck  north  of 
it,  reprefented  on  Champlain's  map  as 
covered  with  trees.  The  bay  now  ex- 
tends, 


if 


I  i 


Siettr  de  Champlain. 


121 


other  little  bays  which  adorn  the  landfcape,  where  there  is 
a  confidcrable  quantity  of  land  cleared  up,  and  many  little 
hills,  where  they  cultivate  corn  and  the  various  grains  on 
which  they  live.  There  are,  alfo,  very  fine  vines,  many  wal- 
nut-trees, oaks,  cypreffes,  but  only  a  few  pines.-'^  All  the 
inhabitants  of  this  place  are  very  fond  of  agriculture,  and 
provide  themfelves  with  Indian  corn  for  the  winter,  which 
thev  ftore  in  the  followino:  manner:  — 

They  make  trenches  in  the  fand  on  the  Hope  of  the  hills, 
fome  five  to  fix  feet  deep,  more  or  lefs.  Putting  their  corn 
and  other  grains  into  large  grafs  facks,  they  throw  them  into 
thcfe  trenches,  and  cover  them  with  fand  three  or  four  feet 
above  the  furface  of  the  earth,  taking  it  out  as  their  needs 
require.  In  this  way,  it  is  preferved  as  well  as  it  would  be 
poffible  to  do  in  our  granaries.^'" 

We 

tends,  as  we  have  dated  above,  into  the  extenfively  in  nearly  every  part  of  the 

town  of  Orleans.     The  illand  G,  known  world    where   the    climate   is    fuitable. 

in  modern  times  as  Ram  Ifland,  difap-  Champlain  is  the  firlt  who  has  left  a  rec- 

peared  in  1851,  although  it  (till  continued  ord  of  the  method  of  its  cultivation  in 

to   fijrure   on    Waiting's  map   of    185S.  New   England,  vide  antca,  p.  64,  and 

The  two  other  little  bays  mentioned  in  of  its  prefervation  through  the  winter, 

the  text  fcarcely  appear  on  Champlain's  The  Pilgrims,  in  1620.  found  it  depofited 

map;  and  he  may  have   inadvertently  bv  the   Indians  in  the  ground  after  the 

included  in   this  bay  the  two  that  are  m'anner  defcribed  in  the  text.     Bradford 

farther    north,    viz.  Crow's    Pond    and  favs  they  found  "  heaps  of  fand  newly 

Pleafant  Ray,  although  they  do  not  fall  pa'dled  with    their   hands,   which  they, 

within  the  limits  of  his  map.  diffg-ng  »p.  found  in  them  divercc  faife 

218  Vide  antea,  notes  168,  204,  205.  Indean  bafkets  filled  with    cnrne.    and 

219  Indian  corn,  Zea  mays,  is  a  plant  fome  in  eares,  faire  and  good,  of  diverce 
of  American  origin.  Columluis  faw  it  collours,  which  feemed  to  them  a  very 
among  the  natives  of  the  Well  Indies,  goodly  fight,  haveing  never  feen  any 
"a  fort  of  grain  they  call  Maiz,  which  fuch  h^iiox^y  —  His.^Plvni.  Plantation, 
was    well   tafted,   bak'd,   or   dry'd   and  p.  82.     Squanto  taught  the  Englifh  how 


made  into  flour." — Vide  Hijlo'ry  of  the 
Life  and  Ailions  of  Chris.   Columbus 
by    his      Son     Ferdinand    Columbus, 
ChurchilVs  loyat^es,  Vol.  II.  p.  510. 
It   is   now   cultivated   more    or    lefs 


to  "  fet  it,  and  after  how  to  drefs  and 
tend  it."  —  /ilem,  p.  100. 

•  The  women,"  flxys  Roger  Williams, 

"  fet  or  plant,  weede.  and  hill,  and  gatlier 

and  barne  all  the  corne  and  Fruites  of 

16  the 


f 


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f  i 


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! 


I 


<h 


tli. 


,i) 


I 


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I 


¥  1 


i 


Voyages  of 


Wc  faw  in  this  place  fome  five  to  fix  hundred  favages,  all 

naked 

Chami'LAin's  Explanation  ok  thk  accompanying   Map. 

Port  Koki unk. 
Tlic  fif^ures  inJicitte  fathoms  of  tva't-r. 

A.  Pond  of  fait  water.^  />'.  Cabins  of  tlie  favages  and  the  lands  they  cultivate. 
C.  Meadows  where  there  are  two  little  brooks.  C.  Meadows  on  the  illanil,  that 
are  covered  at  every  tide.-  Ih  Small  mountain  ranges  on  tlie  illaiul,  that  are  cov- 
ered with  trees,  vines,  and  i)lum-trees.3  E.  I'ond  of  fredi  water,  where  there  is 
plentv  of  game.''  /•".  A  kind  of  meadow  on  the  illand.''  G.  An  illand  covered 
witii  wood  in  a  great  arm  of  the  fea."  //.  A  fort  of  pond  of  fait  water,  wiiere 
there  are  many  llieH-filli,  and,  anujng  others,  quantities  of  oyllers.'  /.  Sandy 
downs  on  a  narrow  tongue  of  land.  L.  Arm  of  the  fea.  M.  Roadflead  before 
th:  harI)or  where  we  anciiored.**  A'.  Entrance  to  the  harbor.  O.  The  harbor 
and  place  where  our  barc|ue  was.  /'.  The  crofs  we  planteil.  Q-  Little  brook. 
R.  Mountain  which  is  {<i.ft\\  at  a  great  dirtance.''  S.  Sea-fhore.  7".  Little  river. 
/'.  Way  we  went  in  their  country  among  their  dwellings;  it  is  indicated  by 
fmall  dots.^'^  A'.  Hanks  and  (lioals.  ]'.  Small  mountain  feen  in  the  interior.^^ 
Z.  Small  brooks.     9.   Spot  near  the  crofs  where  the  favages  killed  our  men.'- 

NoTics.  1  This  is  now  c.dled  (^yl^er  Pond.  '^  The  letter  C  ap])ears  twice  in  the 
index,  but  botli  are  wanting  on  the  map.  The  former  feems  to  ])oint  to  the  mea- 
dows on  the  upper  left-hanH  corner  :  the  other  (hould  probably  take  the  place  of 
the  O  on  the  wcllern  ])?,rt  of  the  illand  above  F.  ^  This  range  of  hills  is  a 
marked  feature  "f  the  illand.  ■•  This  pond  is  Uill  diftinguifhed  for  its  game,  and 
is  leafed  by  gentlemen  in  Lollon  and  held  as  a  preferve.  ''This  is  known  as 
Morris  Illand  ;  but  the  rtrait  on  the  north  of  it  has  been  filled  u]).  and  the  ifland  is 
now  a  part  of  the  main  land.  "^  This  illand  has  been  cn'.ircly  obliterated,  and  the 
neck  on  tlie  north  has  likewife  been  fwept  away,  and  the  bay  now  extends  feveral 
leagues  farthei'  north.  The  detlruclion  of  the  illand  was  com])leted  in  1S51,  in  the 
gale  that  fwept  away  Minot's  Light.  In  1S47,  it  had  an  area  of  thirteen  acres 
and  an  e1evatic)n  of  twenty  feet.  —  I'idc  Harbor  Com.  Report,  1H73.  '  This  is  now 
called  the  Mill  Pond.  **  Chatham  Roads,  or  Old  Stage  Harbor.  »  A  moderate 
elevation,  by  no  means  a  mountain  in  our  fenfe  of  the  word.  **'  The  circuit 
here  indicated  is  about  four  or  live  miles.  Another  path  is  indicated  in  the  fame 
m, inner  on  the  extreme  nortiiern  end  of  the  map.  which  lliows  that  their  excur- 
lions  had  been  extenlive.  ^^  This  is  now  called  the  (ir:at  Chatham  Hill,  and  is 
a  confpicuous  landmark.  ^^  This  is  a  creek  up  which  ti:e  tide  fets.  The  othi  r 
brook  figured  on  the  map  a  little  fouth  of  the  crofs  has  been  artificially  filled 
uj).  but  the  mailhes  wliich  it  drained  are  Hill  to  be  feen.  Thefe  landmarks  enable 
us  to  fix  upon  v.he  locality  of  the  crofs  witluR  a  few  feet. 


the  field,"  and  of  drying  the  corn,  he     lieapcs  and   Mats   many   dayes,   before 
adds,  "  which  they  doe  carefully  upon     they   barne  it  up,   covering   it   up  w  ith 

Mats 


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Sieur  dc  Chaviplaiii, 


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123 


iKikcd  cxcc'iit  tlic'ir  fL-xiuil  parts,  which  they  cover  with  a 
finall  piece  of  doc  or  feal-lkin.  The  women  are  alfo  naked, 
and,  like  the  men,  cover  theirs  with  lkin>.  or  leaves.  They 
wear  tlieir  hair  carefully  com])ed  and  twilled  in  various  ways, 
both  men  and  women,  after  the  manner  of  the  lavai^es  of 
Choiiacoct.""  Their  bodies  are  well-proportioned,  and  thrir 
fkin  olive-colored.  They  adorn  themfelves  with  featheis, 
beads  of  (hell,  and  other  gewgaws,  which  they  arrange  very 

neatlv 


Mats  at  nifjlit,  and  ojicnint^  wluii  tlic 
Sim  i:.  hot."' 

The  followiim  .ire  tclliinoiiics  as  to 
the  ufe  made  liy  tlie  natives  ot"  the  In- 
dian corn  as  food  :  — 

'• 'I'liey  l)roiiL;lit  with  them  in  a  tliini^ 
like  a  r.ow-cafe,  whicli  tlic  jiriiu  ipail  ot' 
tliem  liad  about  Ills  wall,  a  little  ot  their 
Come  powdered  to  I'owdcr,  wlucli  pnt 
to  a  little  water  they  oate."  —  Mourt's 
RclatioHy  London,  1622,  Dexter's  ed., 
p.  88. 

"  Ciivinj;  vs  a  kinde  ot'  l)rc.id  called  hy 
tiiem  .lA/Zr/////'."  —  Idem,  p.  lot. 

"They  I'eldonie  or  never  make  bread 
of  their  I/K/iaii  conic,  but  feeth  it  whole 
like  beanes,  eatini;  three  or  tour  cornes 
with  a  mouthfull  of  fi(h  or  tlelh,  fomc- 
times  eatini;  meate  tird  .md  cornes  after, 
filliiio;  chinckes  with  their  broth."  — 
ll'ooi/'s  iVi-iO  /■■/ix-  Profpiil,  London, 
1634.  Prince  Society's  ed.,  pp.  75.  76. 

"  .\okekich.  l\irth\{  iiuah  whicli  is 
a  readie  very  wholefome  food,  which 
they  e  ite  wit!i  a  little  water  hot  or  coM  . 
.  .  .  With  ay/w(';//"//// of  this  W(V//<' and. 
a  fpoonfull  of  water  froin  the  Ihooki\ 
have  I  made  r-iany  a  ujooil  dinner  and 
flipper."  —  /■iOi^t'r  W'illiains's  Key,  Lon- 
don, I ''143.  Trumbuirs  ed.,  j)]).  39,  40. 

"Their  food  is  ,a;ener,dly  boiled  maize, 
or  Indian  corn,  mixed  with  kidney  beans 
or  I'onietimes  without.  .  .  .  Alfo  they 
mix  with  the  faid  pottage  feveral  torts 


of  ro'Us.  as  Jcrul'.ilem  artii  hokes.  and 
!:;round  nuts,  and  other  roots,  and  pom- 
pions,  and  fijuadies.  wnA  alio  I'everal 
i'orts  of  nuts  or  in. ills,  as  oak-acorns, 
chel'iuits.  walnuts  :  Thefc  hulked  and 
dried,  and  powdered,  the)  thi(  ken  their 
po;t.ii;o  therewith  "  -  Uiih>ri,al  ('olU\- 
tioiis  oi  the  liiiiiiDis,  by  D.miel  Ciookin, 
'(')74.  lioilon.  i7c)2.  p.  ro. 

'--'^  Tl.j  cliaracter  of  the  Indian  dnls, 
as  here  defiribed,  does  not  dilfer  widely 
from  that  of  a  later  period, —  I'Hc 
Moiirfs  Relation,  \(vi2,  Dexter's  ed., 
p.  135  :  Ro'er  W'illiaiiis's  Key,  t''>43, 
Trumbull's  ed.,  j).  143,  et  fei/.  ;  Hijlury 
0/' Xew  Juis^/tnti/,  by  LdwanI  Johnl'on, 
1654,  I'oole's  ed.,  pji.  224,  225. 

Champhiin'sobfervalions  were  made  in 
the  autumn  before  the  approach  of  the 
winter  fiolls. 

Thomas  .Morton,  writing  in  i'i32, 
fays  that  the  mantle  whit  h  the  women 
"ufe  to  cover  their  nakedneU'e  with  is 
much  Ioniser  then  that  which  the  men 
ufe:  for  as  the  men  liaue  one  Deeres 
Ikinn,  the  women  haue  two  toed  to- 
j^ether  at  the  full  length,  and  it  is  fo 
lards^e  that  it  trades  alter  tliem,  like  a 
^reat  Ladies  trane,  anrl  in  time,''  he 
f|)oriively  adds,  "  I  thinke  they  may 
haue  their  I'ages  to  beare  them  up."  — 
A'eu>  Kf/L^.  ('(Tiiniin,  i'>32,  in  Force's 
Tracts,  Vol.   II.   p.  23. 


1 


1 


■  » 


i  Ml 


t 


i< 


124 


Voyao'cs  of 


neatly  in  embroidery  work.  As  weapons,  they  liave  bows, 
arr(>\vs,  and  clubs.  They  are  not  fo  nuich  great  hunters  as 
Ljood  filhernien  and  tillers  of  the  land. 

In  regard  to  their  police,  government,  and  belief,  we  have 
been  unal)le  to  form  a  judgment;  but  I  fuppofe  that  they  are 
not  different  in  this  refpecl  from  our  favages,  the  Souriquois 
and  Canadians,  who  worlhij)  neither  the  moon  nor  the  fun, 
nor  any  thing  elfe,  and  pray  no  more  than  the  bealls."' 
'There  are,  however,  among  them  foine  perl'ons  who,  as  they 
fay,  are  in  concert  with  the  devil,  in  whom  they  have  great 
faith.  They  tell  them  all  that  is  to  happen  to  them,  but 
in  fo  doing  lie  fur  the  moll  part.  Sometimes  they  fucceed 
in  hitting  the  mark  very  well,  and  tell  them  things  fmiilar 
to  thofe  which  actually  happen  to  them.  For  this  reafon, 
they  have  faith  in  them,  as  if  they  were  prophets;  while 
they  are  only  imjDoftors  who  delude  them,  as  the  Egyptians 
and  Hoheniians  do  the  Hmple  villagers.  They  have  chiefs, 
whom  they  obey  in  matters  of  war,  but  not  otherwife,  and 
who  engage  in  labor,  and  hold  no  higher  rank  than  their 
companions.  Each  one  has  only  fo  much  land  as  he  needs 
for  his  fupport. 

Their  dwellings  are  feparate  from  each  other,  according  to 
the  land  which  each  one  occupies.  They  are  large,  of  a  cir- 
cular (hape,  and  covered  with  thatch  made  of  gralTes  or  the 
hulks  of  Indian  corn."-'     They  are  furnilhed  only  with  a  bed 

or 

■^^^  This  conclufion  harmonizes  with  Window   was    at   firfl  of    the    fame 

tlie  opinion  of   Thomas    Morton,   who  opinion,    but   afterward   faw   caufe   for 

fays   that  the   natives  of   New  Kngland  ciianjiinu;  liis   mind.  —  I'uie   Whtjlow's 

nrc  "Joieyii/t:  //Hi;  /ti;i\f/ yhw  rt'm;"  nnd  Rclatio)i,    1624,   in  Young's  Ciironicles, 

that  tliey  "  liave  no  worlhip  nor  reiij^ion  p.  355.  See  aifo  Roi^er  Williams' a  Key, 

at  ail." — Ncio  Eni^.  Ca)iaan^   1632,  in  Trumbull's  ed.,  p.  159. 

Force's  Trafts,  Vol.  II.  p.  21.  '■'•'-  "  Their  houfes,  or  wigwams,"  fays 

Gookin, 


L 


♦         7  ^ 


Vti 


> 


I 


Siciir  dc  CluiinpLun. 


125 


or  two,  niifcd  a  fcjot  from  the  grouiul,  made  y^\  a  luiinbcr  »)f 
little  pieces  of  wood  prelfed  agaiiill  tach  other,  on  which 
they  arrange  a  reetl  mat,  after  tlie  Spanilh  llyle,  which  is  a 
kind  of  matting  tw(j  or  three  fingers  thick:  on  thefe  they 
fleej)."'  They  have  a  great  many  fleas  in  fummer,  even  in 
the  fields.  One  day  as  we  went  out  walking,  we  were  1)(  fet 
by  fo  many  of  them  that  we  were  obliged  to  change  our 
clothes. 

All  the  harbors,  bays,  and  coalls  from  Choiiacoet  are  filled 
with  every  variety  of  filh,  like  thofe  which  we  have  before 
our  habitation,  and  in  fuch  abundance  that  I  can  confidently 
alTert  that  there  was  not  a  day  ox  night  when  we  did  not  lie 
and  hear  pafs  by  our  barque  more  than  a  thoufand  porpoifes, 
which  were  chafing  the  fiiialler  fry.  There  are  alfo  many 
ihell-filh  of  various  Ibrts,  principally  oyflers.  Game  birds  are 
very  plenty. 

It 


(loiikin,  "  ;irc  l)uill  with  rin;ill  |)()Ie.s  fixed 
ill  llic  ^^roimd.  liontiiiul  lallcncd  tDm'tlicr 
with  haiixsof  trees,  ova!  or  .iriiorwile  on 
tile  top.  'I'lie  l)ell  fort  of  tlieir  iioufes 
are  covered  very  iie.itiy,  ti^Iit,  and  w.irm 
with  the  bark  of  trees,  llrijiped  from 
tlieir  liodies  at  fiicli  feafons  wlien  tlie 
fap  is  up;  and  made  into  threat  tiakes 
with  prelVures  of  wei.Ljhty  timl)ers,  wlien 
they  are  i^reen  ;  and  fo  Ijecominj;  (hy, 
they  will  retain  a  torm  fuitahle  for  tlie 
life  they  prepare  them  for.  The  meaner 
fort  of  \vi;j;wams  are  covered  with  mats 
they  make  of  a  kind  of  bulrulh,  whicii 
are  alfo  inditferent  tight  and  warm,  but 
not  fo  good  as  the  former." — I'ide 
J/ijlon'cai     Colhulions,     1674,     Bolloii, 

1 792,  p.  9- 

'^-^  The  conrtruftion  of  the  Indian 
couch,  or  bed,  at  a  much  later  pericil 
may  be  fcen  by  the  following  excerpts  : 


'"  So  we  defired  to  goc  to  rell :  he  layd  vs 
on  the  bed  with  hinifelfe  and  his  wife, 
they  at  one  end  and  we  at  the  other,  it 
being  only  plaiu  ks  layd  a  foot  from  the 
ground,  and  a  thin  mat  uiinn  them."  — 
Mourfs  Rt'hiiioii,  London.  \('>zi.  I)ex- 
ter's  ed.,  pp.  107,  loS.  "  In  their  wig- 
wams, they  make  a  kind  of  couch  or 
mattrelles.  firm  and  tlrong.  raifed  about 
a  foot  high  from  the  earth  :  firit  covered 
with  boards  that  they  fplit  out  of  trees  ; 
and  upon  the  boards  they  fpread  mats 
generally,  and  fometimes  l)ear  ikins  and 
deer  (kins.  Thefe  are  large  eiiougl;  for 
three  or  four  ])erfons  to  lodge  upon  : 
and  one  may  either  draw  nearer  or  keep 
at  a  more  diilance  from  the  heat  o*"  the 
fire,  as  they  pleafe  ;  for  their  mattrelles 
are  lix  or  eight  feet  broad."  —  Ciookiii's 
Ilijlorical  Colletlions,  1674,  Bollon, 
1792,  p.   10. 


U 


I     • 


I  '"iV 


<     < 


I  \  :! 

I    ! 


v 


w 


\ 


I 


,1 


F 


'I 


I!      ^ 


I, 

^ 

^      ..'I'^Pw 

126 


Voyages  of 


It  would  be  an  excellent  place  to  erecT;  buildings  and  lay 
the  foundations  of  a  State,  if  the  harbor  were  fomewhat  deei)er 
and  the  entrance  fafer.  Before  leaving  the  harbor,  the  rudder 
was  repaired  ;  and  we  had  Ibme  bread  made  from  tlour,  which 
we  had  brought  for  our  lubfitlence,  in  cafe  our  bifcuit  Ihould 
give  out.  Meanwhile,  we  lent  the  Ihallop  with  five  or  fix  men 
and  a  fawage  to  fee  whether  a  palTage  might  be  found  more 
favorable  for  our  departure  than  that  by  which  we  had  en- 
tered. 

After  they  had  gone  five  or  fix  leagues  and  were  near  the 
la'.id,  the  favage  made  his  efcaj^e,"'-''  fince  he  was  afraid  of  being 
taken  to  other  favages  farther  fouth  the  enemies  of  his  tribe, 
as  he  gave  thofe  to  underlland  who  were  in  the  llialloi). 
The  latter,  upon  their  return,  reported  that,  as  far  as  they 
had  advanced,  there  were  at  hjall  three  fathoms  of  water,  and 
that  fardier  on  there  were  neitlier  Ihallows  nor  reefs. 

We  accordingly  made  halle  to  repair  our  barque,  and  make 
a  fupply  of  bread  for  fifteen  days.  Meanwhile,  Sieur  de 
Poutrincourt,  accompanied  by  ten  or  twelve  arquebufiers, 
vifited  all  the  neighboring  country,  which  is  very  fine,  as  I 
ha\'e  faid  before,  and  where  we  law  here  and  there  a  large 
number  of  little  houfes. 

Some  eight  or  nine  davs  after,  while  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt 
wr.s  walking  out,  as  he  had  previoufiy  done,'"'''  we  obferved  the 
iiwagcs  taking  down  their  cabins  and  fending  their  women, 
children,  j^rovifions,  and   other  neceffaries   of    life    into  the 

woods. 

--^  This  exploration  appears  to  have  —^  On  tlie  map  of  I'ort  Fortune,  or 

extended  alioui  as  far  as  I'oint  liam-  Chatiiam.   tiie  courfe  of  one    of   tiiefe 

nion,    w'lere,    being  '•  near  the    land,"  excurlions   is  marked  by  a  dotted  line, 

their   ImUan  guide  left  them,  as  Itated  to  which  the  re.uler  is  ref'jrred. — I'idc 

in  the  text.  notes  on  the  map  of  Port  Fortund. 


'm 


lay 


Sieitr  de  Chaviplam. 


127 

woods.  Tliis  made  us  fufped  fome  c\'il  intention,  and  that 
they  purpofed  to  attack  thofe  of  our  conij^any  who  were  work- 
ing- on  fliore,  wlicre  they  flayed  at  night  in  order  to  guard 
that  which  could  not  be  embarked  at  evening  except  with 
much  trouble.  This  proved  to  be  true ;  for  they  determined 
among  themfelves,  after  all  their  effeds  had  been  put  in  a 
place  of  fecurity,  to  come  and  furprife  thofe  on  land,  taking 
advantage  of  them  as  much  as  poffible,  and  to  carry  off  ail 
they  had.  But,  if  by  chance  they  fliould  find  them  on  their 
guard,  they  refolved  to  come  with  figns  of  friend  (hip,  as 
they  were  wont  to  do,  leaving  behind  their  bows  and  arrows. 

Now,  in  view  of  what  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  had  feen,  and 
the  order  which  it  had  been  told  him  they  obferved  when 
they  wiihed  to  play  tome  bad  trick,  when  we  paffed  by  fome 
cabins,  where  there  was  a  large  number  of  w^omen,  we 
gave  them  fome  bracelets  and  rings  to  keep  them  quiet  and 
free  from  fear,  and  to  moft  of  the  old  and  diftinguiflied  men 
hatchets,  knives,  and  other  things  which  they  defu-ed.  This 
pleafed  them  greatly,  and  they  repaid  it  all  in  dances,  gam- 
bols, and  harangues,  which  we  did  not  underftand  at  all.  We 
went  wherever  we  chofe  without  their  having  the  affurance 
to  lay  any  thing  to  us.  It  pleafed  us  greatly  to  fee  them 
Ihow  themfelves  fo  fimple  in  appearance. 

We  returned  very  quietly  to  our  barque,  accompanied  by 
fome  of  the  favages.  On  the  way,  we  met  fe\-eral  fmall 
troops  of  them,  who  gradually  gathered  together  with  their 
arms,  and  were  greatly  aflonillied  to  fee  us  so  far  in  the  in- 
terior, and  did  not  fujjpofe  that  we  had  jull  made  a  circuit  of 
nearly  four  or  five  leagues  about  their  territory  Paffmo- 
near  us,  they  trembled  with  tear,  left  harm  Ihould  be  done 

them. 


I 


■'ii 


W. 


I' 


ll  "^ 


i 


M 


128 


Voyages  of 


them,  as  it  was  in  our  power  to  do.  But  we  did  them 
none,  although  we  knew  their  evil  intentions.  Having  ar- 
rived where  our  men  were  workinij:,  Sieur  dc  Poutrincourt 
inquired  if  every  thing  was  in  readinefs  to  refill;  the  defigns 
of  this  rabble. 

He  ordered  every  thing  on  fliore  to  be  embarked.  This 
was  done,  except  that  he  who  was  making  the  bread  flayed 
to  finilh  a  baking,  and  two  others  with  him.  They  were 
told  that  the  favaires  had  fome  evil  intent,  and  that  thev 
ihould  make  halle  to  embark  the  coming  evening,  fince 
they  carried  their  plans  into  execution  only  at  night,  or  at 
daybreak,  which  in  their  plots  is  generally  the  hour  for  mak- 
ing a  furprife. 

Evening  having  come,  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  gave  orders 
that  the  lliallop  Ihould  be  fent  afhore  to  get  the  men  who 
remained.  This  was  done  as  foon  as  the  tide  would  permit, 
and  thofe  on  fhore  were  told  that  they  mufl  embark  for  the 
reafon  affigned.  This  they  refuled  in  fpite  of  the  remon- 
ilranc'  -^  that  were  made  letting  forth  the  rifks  they  ran  and 
tlic  difobedience  to  their  chief.  They  paid  no  attention  to 
it,  wiHi  the  exception  of  a  fervant  of  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt, 
who  embarked.  Two  others  dilembarked  from  the  Ihallop 
and  went  to  the  three  on  Ihore,  who  had  Hayed  to  eat  Ibmc 
cakes  made  at  the  fame  tim.e  with  the  bread. 

Put,  as  they  were  unwilling  to  do  as  they  were  told,  the 
Ihallop  returned  to  the  velfel.  It  was  not  mentioned  to 
Sieur  de  Poutrincourt,  who  had  retired,  thinking  that  all  were 
on  board. 

The  next  day,  in  the  morning,  the  15th  of  061ober,  the 
favaiT;es  did  not  fail  to  come  and  fee  in  what  condition  our 

men 


ir 


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S'^s 


S;\ 


iettr  de  Champlain, 


129 


men  were,  whom  they  found  afleep,  except  one,  who  was 
near  the  fire.  When  they  law  them  in  this  condition,  they 
came,  to  the  number  of  four  hundred,  foftly  over  a  little  hill, 
and  fent  them  fuch  a  volley  of  arrows  that  to  rife  up  was 
death.  Fleeing  the  befl:  they  could  towards  our  barque, 
fliouting,  "  Help!  they  are  killing  us!"  a  part  fell  dead  in  the 
water;  the  others  were  all  pierced  v.ith  arrows,  and  one 
died  in  confequence  a  fhort  time  after.  The  lavages  mrxle 
a  delperate  noife  with  roarings,  which  it  was  terrible  to  hear. 
Upon  the  occurrence  of  this  noife  and  that  of  our  men,  the 
fentinel,  on  our  veffel,  exclaimed,  "  To  arms !  They  are  kill- 
ing our  men  !  "  Confequently,  each  one  innnediately  feizcd 
his  arms ;  and  we  embarked  in  the  Ihallop,  fome  fifteen  or 
fixteen  of  us,  in  order  to  go  afliore.  But,  being  unable  to 
oet  there  on  account  of  a  land-bank  between  us  and  the  land, 
we  threw  ourfelves  into  the  water,  and  waded  from  this  bank 

to 


Champlain's  Explanation  of  the  accompanying  Map. 

The  Attack  at  Port  Fortunb. 
The  figJires  indicate  fathoms  of  water. 

A.  Place  where  the  French  were  making  bread.  B.  Thefavages  furprifing  the 
French,  and  fliooting  their  arrows  at  them.  C.  French  burned  by  the  favagcs.  A 
The  French  fleeing  to  the  barque,  completely  covered  with  arrows.  E.  Trooi)s 
of  favages  burning  the  French  whom  they  had  killed.  F.  Mountain  liordering  on 
the  harbor.  G.  Cabins  of  the  favages.  H.  French  on  the  Ihore  cha»-ging  upon 
the  favages.  /.  Savages  routed  by  the  French.  Z.  Shallop  in  which  were 
the  French.  M.  Savages  around  our  fl\allop,  who  were  furprifed  by  our  men. 
N.  Barque  of  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt.  O.  The  harbor  P.  Small  brook. 
(}.  French  who  fell  dead  in  the  water  as  they  were  trying  to  flee  to  tiie  liarque. 
A'.  Brook  coming  from  certain  marlhes.  S.  Woods  under  co\er  of  wiiich  the 
favages  came. 

17 


'I     \ 


111 


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X^X 


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&^-, 


I30 


Voyages  of 


I  ^ 


i 


\i  h 

If     t 


k 


Hi 


ii 


to  tlic  riiorc,  tlic  diflancc  of  a  nuifkot-lhot.  As  foon  as  \vc 
were  there,  the  favai^es,  feeing  us  within  arrow  range,  fled 
into  the  interior.  To  purfue  them  was  fruitlefs,  for  tliey  arc 
marvelloiill}'  fwift.  .All  that  we  could  do  was  to  carry  away 
the  dead  l)()dies  and  bury  them  near  a  crofs,  which  had  been 
fet  up  the  day  before,  and  then  to  go  here  and  there  to  fee 
if  we  could  get  fight  of  any  of  them.  But  it  was  time  walled, 
therefore  we  came  back.  Three  hours  afterwards,  they  re- 
turned to  us  on  the  fea-(hore.  We  difcharged  at  them  feveral 
fhots  from  our  little  brafs  cannon  ;  and,  when  they  heard 
the  noife,  they  crouched  down  on  the  ground  to  avoid  the 
fire.  In  mockery  of  us,  they  beat  down  the  crofs  and  difni- 
terred  the  dead,  which  difi)leafed  us  greatly,  and  cauled  us  to 
go  for  them  a  fecond  time  ;  but  they  lied,  as  they  had  done 
before.  We  fet  up  again  the  crofs,  and  reinterred  the  dead, 
whom  they  had  thrown  here  and  there  amid  the  heath,  where 
they  kindled  a  fire  to  burn  them.  We  returned  without  any 
refult,  as  we  had  done  before,  well  aware  tliat  there  was 
fcarcely  hope  of  avenging  ourfelves  this  time,  and  that  we 
fliould  have  to  renew  the  undertaking  when  it  fliould  pleafe 
God. 

On  the  1 6th  of  the  month,  we  fet  out  from  Port  Fortune, 
to  which  wc  had  "-ix-en  this  name  on  account  of  the  mif- 
fortune  which  happened  to  us  there.  This  place  is  in  lati- 
tude 41"    20',   and   fome  twelve   or   thirteen    leagues   from 

IMallebarre.''^^'*^ 

CHArTI":R   XV. 

226  /3^;Y  Fortune,  perhaps  here  ufcd  Harlior  in  Chatliam  is  41"  40'.  Tlie 
to  fignify  the  port  of  ciianre  or  hazard ;  dillancc  from  Mallebarrc  or  Naufct  to 
rcfcrrin"^  particularly  to  the  dangers  I'ort  Fortune,  or  Stai;e  Ilarhor,  by 
they  encountered  in  |).iriinn  round  Mon-  water  round  the  fouthern  ])()int  of  Mnn- 
oinoy  to  reach  it.    The  latitutle  of  Stage     onioy,  is  at  the  ])refent  time  about  nine 

leagues. 


Siettr  dc  Champ  lam. 


131 


M 


CIIAl'TI'R   XV. 

THK  InCLKMKNCY  of  TUH  WiOATUKK  not  rT-RMITTING  us  AT  THAT  TiMK 
TO  CONTINIM'.  f)UK  DiSCoVllKII'.S,  \VK  UKSOIAKI)  TO  WI/H'KN  TO  OUK  Si:T- 
TLEMliNT.      What    HAI'I'ENKU  to    us    until    VVIC    KKACIllOU   IT. 

I'^TIi^R  having  gone  fome  fix  or  fcven  leagues,  we 
fighted  an  iiland,  vvlucli  we  named  La  S()ui)i;()n- 
neule,'"'  becaufe  in  the  dillanee  we  had  feveral 
times  thouoht  it  was  not  an  iiland.  Then  the 
wind  became  contrary,  which  caufed  us  to  put 
back  to  the  place  whence  wc  had  fet  out,  where  we  fla)'ed 
two  or  three  days,  no  favage  during  this  time  prefenting  him- 

felf  to  us. 

On  the  20th,  we  fet  out  anew  and  coafled  along  to  the 
fouth-weft  nearly  twelve  leagues,"'  where  we  palled  near  a 
river  which  is  fmall  and  difficult  of  accefs  in  confequence  of 
the  Ihoals  and  rocks  at  its  mouth,  and  which   I  called  after 


my  own  name 


220 


This  coaft  is,  fo  far  as  we  faw,  low  and 

fandv. 


leagues.  The  diftance  may  poffibly 
li.ive  been  .<j;re:iter  in  1606.  or  Cham- 
plain  may  have  increalcd  the  dillanee 
by  uivini;  a  wide  berth  to  Monomoy  in 
palfinji  round  it. 

■■'•-■'  Iai  Soupi^oHncufc,  the  doul)tful. 
Martha's  Vineyard.  Champlain  and 
routrincourt.  in'the  little  French  barque, 
Ivinsih'w  on  the  water,  creepinjj  along 
tile  fhore  from  Chatham  to  Point  C.am- 
mon,  could  hardly  fail  to  be  doubtful 
whether  Martha's  \'ineyar(l  were  an 
ifland  or  a  part  of  the  main  land.  Lef- 
carbot,  fpeaking  of  it,  fays,  it  ftit  ap- 
peL'c  file  Doiitcufc. 


^'■28  Nearly  twelve  leagues  in  a  fouth- 
weflerly  direction  from  their  anchoraLre 
at  Stage  Harbor  in  Chatham  would 
bring  them  to  Xohfka  I'oint,  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  \'ineyard  Sound.  This 
was  the  limit  of  Cham]jlain's  explora- 
tions towards   the  foutli. 

"'•'  "  Called  after  my  own  name."  viz. 
Rivicic  dc  Clut  III  plain. —  /  Idc  map.  1612. 
This  river  appears  to  lie  a  tidal  i)affage 
connecting  the  \'ineyard  Sound  and 
lUi/zard's  lUiy,  hav'ing  NonainelVet 
and  Cncatena  III  inds  on  the  fouth-welt, 
and    Noblka   Point,  Wood's   Ilnll.    and 


Long  Neck  on  the  nurlh-eall. 


On  onr 

Coalt 


i'tl 


II 


I,    ' 


I       \ 


v4 

-I 


i"l 


I 


132 


Voyai^es  of 


fancly.  The  wind  again  grew  roiitrar}-  aiul  very  (Iroiig,  which 
caufed  us  to  put  out  to  fca,  as  we  \vcre  unahlc  to  advance  on 
one  tack  or  the  other:  it,  liowever,  finally  abated  a  httle  and 
grew  favorable.  Hut  all  we  could  do  was  to  return  again  to 
Port  Fortune,  where  the  coafl,  though  low,  is  fine  and  good, 
yet  difficult  of  accels,  there  being  no  harbors,  many  reefs, 
anil  shallow  water  for  the  dillance  of  nearly  two  leagues 
from  land.  'I'he  molt  that  we  found  was  feven  or  eight 
fathoms  in  Ibme  channels,  which,  however,  continued  only 
a  cable's  length,  when  there  were  fuddenly  only  two  or  three 
fathoms;  but  one  lliould  not  truft  the  water  who  has  not 
well  examined  the  dei)th  with  the  lead  in  hand. 

Some  hours  after  we  had  returned  to  port,  a  fon  of  Pont 
Grave,  named  Robert,  loll;  a  hand  in  firing  a  mufket,  which 
burll  in  feveral  i^ieces,  but  without  injuring  any  one  near 
him. 

Seeing  now  the  wind  continuing  contrary,  and  being  un- 
able to  put  to  fea,  we  refolved  meanwhile  to  get  poffeffion  of 
fome  favages  of  this  place,  and,  taking  them  to  our  fettlcment, 
put  them  to  grinding  corn  at  the  hand-mill,  as  punilhment 
for  the  deadly  affault  which  they  had  committed  on  five  or 
fix  of  our  company.  But  it  was  very  difficult  to  do  this  when 
we  were  c .  med,  fince,  if  we  went  to  them  prepared  to  fight, 

they 


Coaft  Survey  Charts,  it  is  callcfl  Hadley 
River.  Its  Icnjith  is  nearly  two  miles, 
in  a  winding  coiirle.  Tlie  mouth  of 
this  paffage  is  full  of  boulders,  and  in  a 
recedini,^  tide  the  current  is  rou<;h  and 
boillerous.  and  wouUI  anfwer  well  to  the 
defcription  in  the  text,  as  no  other  river 
does  on  the  coall  from  Chatham  to 
Wood's  Holi.       On  tlie  fmall  French 


barque,  elevated  but  a  little  above  the 
furface  of  the  water,  its  fource  in  lUiz- 
zard's  Bay  could  not  be  difcovered,  ef- 
pecially  if  they  i^affed  round  Nol)fka 
Point,  under  the  lee  of  which  they  i)rol> 
ably  obtained  a  view  of  the  "  ftioals 
and  rocks  "  which  they  faw  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river. 


■■■I 


0-  >*  T" 


Sienr  dc  Cliauiplain. 


133 


they  woulcl  turn  and  Hoc  into  the  woods,  where  they  were  not 
to  be  cau<;ht.  It  was  necelTary,  accordingly,  to  have  recourfe 
to  artifice,  and  this  is  what  we  planned:  when  they  Ihould 
come  to  feek  frii'iullhip  with  us,  to  coax  them  by  lliowini; 
them  beads  and  other  gewi^aws,  and  alTure  them  repeatedly 
of  our  L^ood  faith  ;  then  to  take  the  Ihallop  well  armed,  and 
conduit  on  Ihore  the  mofl  robull  and  llron-j:  p-.  r.  we  had. 
each  one  havincj  a  chain  of  beads  and  a  fathom  of  match  on 
his  arm;'-'"'  and  there,  while  |)retendinL;  to  fmoke  with  them 
(each  one  havint;  an  end  (^f  his  i^.iateh  lij;hted  fo  as  not  to 
excite  fufpicion,  it  beinj^  cuflomary  to  have  fire  at  the  end 
of  a  cord  in  order  to  lii;ht  the  tobacco),  coax  them  with 
pleafini;  words  fo  as  to  draw  them  Into  the  (luillop;  and, 
if  they  (hould  be  unwilling  to  enter,  each  one  approaching 
fliould  choofe  his  man,  and,  putting  the  beads  about  his 
neck,  fhould  at  the  fame  time  put  the  rope  on  him  to  draw 
him  by  force.  But,  if  they  fhould  be  too  boirterous,  and  it 
Ihould  not  be  jioffible  to  fucceed,  they  fhould  be  ftabbcd.  the 
rope  being  firmly  held  ;  and,  if  by  chance  any  of  them  (hould 
get  away,  there  Ihould  be  men  on  land  to  charge  upon  them 
\Vith  fwords.  Meanwhile,  the  little  cannon  on  our  barque 
were  to  be  kept  ready  to  fire  upon  their  companions  in  cafe 
they  fliould  come  to  affifl:  them,  under  cover  of  which  fire- 
arms 

•Jiio  ^\  fathom  of  vtatch  on  /lis  arm.  was  difcIiarKccl  by  means  of  a  notched 

This  was   a   ro])e,  made  of  the  tow  of  wheel  of  Heel,  fo  .irran^efl  that  its  fric- 

hemp  or  flax,  loofely  twilled,  and   pre-  tion,  when  in  motion,  tiircw   fpaiks   of 

pared   to  retain  the  tire,  fo  tliat.  when  fire   into   tlie    pan   that   c  iitained    the 

once  lit^lited.  it  would  l)urn  till  the  whole  powder.      The  fnai)hance  was  a  lli<j;ht 

was    confumed.      It   was   employed   in  improvement  iijjon  the  wheel-lock.    The 

connedion    with    the    match-lock,    the  flint-lock   followed,  now  half  a  century 

arm  then  in  common  ufe.     The  wheel-  Imce  fuperfeded  by  the  percuffion  lock 

lock   followed   in  order  of  time,  which  and  cap. 


•  H 


lii 


M 


! 

;•■ 

1 

', 

'    ,1 

1    i 

1 

i 


is 


'T, 


I 


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ni 


\\ 


i 


1 


S    V 


134 


Voyages  of 


arms  the  lliallop  could  withdraw  in  lecurity.  The  plan 
above-mentioned  was  well  carried  out  as  it  had  been  ar- 
ranged. 

Some  days  after  thefe  events  had  tranfpired,  there  came 
lavages  by  threes  and  fours  to  the  Ihore,  making  figns  to  us 
to  go  to  them.  But  we  faw  their  main  body  in  ambufcade 
under  a  hillock  behind  fome  buHies,  and  I  luppofe  that  they 
were  only  dcfirous  of  beguiling  us  into  the  ihallop  in  order 
to  difcharge  a  lliower  of  arrows  upon  us,  and  then  take  to 
flight.  Neverthelefs,  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  did  not  hefi- 
tate  to  go  to  them  with  ten  of  us,  well  equipped  and  deter- 
mined to  fight  them,  if  occafion  offered.  We  landed  at  a 
place  beyond  their  ambufcade,  as  we  thought,  and  where 
they  could  not  furprife  us.  There  three  or  four  of  us  went 
afhore  together  with  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt :  ^he  others  did 
not  leave  the  ihallop,  in  order  to  j^rotedl  it  and  be  ready  for 
an  emergency.  We  afcended  a  knoll  and  went  about  the 
woods  to  fee  if  we  could  not  difcover  more  plainly  the  am- 
bufcade. When  they  faw  us  going  fo  unconcernedly  to 
them,  they  left  and  went  to  o*^her  places,  which  we  could  not 
fee,  and  of  the  four  favages  w-e  faw  only  two,  who  went  aw-ay 
\'ery  flowly.  As  the}'  withdrew,  they  made  figns  to  us  to 
take  our  Ihallop  to  another  place,  thinking  that  it  was  not 
favorable  for  the  carr)ing  out  of  their  plan.  And,  when  we 
alfo  faw  that  they  had  no  defire  to  come  to  us,  we  re-embarked 
and  went  to  the  place  they  indicated,  which  was  the  fecond 
ambufcade  they  had  made,  in  their  endeavor  to  draw  us  un- 
armed to  themfelves  b)'  figns  of  friendfhip.  But  this  we  were 
not  i3ermitted  to  do  at  that  time,  yet  we  approached  very 
near  them  without  feeing  this   ambufcade,   which   we   fup- 

pofed 


'K^ 


k 


t  u 


Sietcr  de  Champlain. 


135 


pofcd  was  not  far  off.  As  our  fiiallop  approached  the  ihore, 
they  took  to  flight,  as  alfo  thofe  in  ambulh,  after  whom  we 
fired  fome  muflcet-lhots,  fince  w^e  faw  that  their  intention  was 
only  to  deceive  us  by  flattery,  in  whicli  they  were  dilap- 
pointed;  for  we  recognized  clearly  what  their  purpofe  was, 
which  had  only  miichief  in  view.  We  retired  to  our  barque 
after  having  done  all  we  could. 

On  the  fame  day,  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  refolved  to  return 
to  our  fettlement  on  account  of  four  or  five  fick  and  wounded 
men,  whofe  wounds  were  growing  worfe  through  lack  of 
falves,  of  which  our  furgeon,  by  a  great  miflake  on  his  part, 
had  brought  but  a  fmall  provifion,  to  the  detriment  of  the 
fick  and  our  own  difcomfort,  as  the  flench  from  their  wounds 
was  fo  great,  in  a  little  veffel  like  our  own,  that  one  could 
fcarcely  endure  it.  Moreover,  we  were  afraid  that  they  would 
generate  difenfc.  Alfo  we  had  provifions  only  for  going 
eight  or  ten  days  farther,  however  much  economy  might  be 
pmdifed ;  and  we  knew  not  whether  the  return  would  laft  as 
long  as  the  advance,  which  was  nearly  two  months. 

At  any  rate,  our  refolution  being  formed,  we  withdrew%  but 
w^ith  the  fatisfacT;ion  that  God  had  not  left  unpuniflied  the 
mifdeeds  of  thefe  barbarians.'^^     We  advanced  no  farther 

than 


■-»!  They  did  not  capture  any  of  the 
Indians,  to  lie  reduced  to  a  fpecies  of 
llaverv,  as  they  intended  ;  hut,  as  will 
appear  furUier'on.  inhumanly  butchered 
fcveral  of  them,  which  would  feem  to 
have  been  an  act  of  reven,<;e  rather  than 
of  punifliment.  The  intercourfe  of  the 
French  with  the  natives  of  Cape  Cod 
was,  on  the  whole,  lefs  fitisfictory  than 
that  widi  the  northern  tribes  aloiii^  the 
fliores  of  Maine,  New  ISrunfwick,  and 


Nova  Srotia.  With  the  latter  they  had 
no  hollilo  contlitls  whatever,  alth.ni;,di 
the  Indians  were  futiiciently  implacable 
and  reven,i:;eful  towards  then  enemies. 
Thofe  inhabitinsi  the  jieninfula  of  Cape 
Cod.  and  as  far  nortli  as  Cape  Anne ,  were 
more  Adpicious,  and  had  apparently 
lefs  clear  conceptions  of  perfonal  riuhts, 
cfpecially  the  ri.i,dits  of  property.  Mi-ht 
;inil  riL;h't  were  to  Uiem  identical.  What- 
ever they  delired,  they  tliougiu  they  had 


•5 


U 


■\ 


1 ' 


I 


fi 


■^i  it 


<! ;  k 


'  i 


1 


i  I 


I?  u 

r  I  i 

11 


^i'l 


»t 


■  i> 


136 


Voyages  of 


tlian  to  latitude  41°  30',  which  was  only  half  a  degree  farther 
than  Sieur  de  Monts  had  gone  on  his  voyage  of  difcov- 
gj.y  232     •^Yg  ^^^  Q^^j^  accordingly  from  this  harbor. 

On  the  next  day,  we  anchored  near  Mallcbarre,  where  we 
remained  until  the  28th  of  the  month,  when  we  fet  fail. 
On  that  day  the  air  was  very  cold,  and  there  was  a  litde  Ihow. 
We  took  a  dire61  courfe  for   Norumbcgue  or   Ifle   Haute. 

Heading 


a  ricjht  to  have,  if  they  had  tlie  power 
or  wit  to  obtain  it.  The  P'roncli  came 
in  c  mtacl:  with  only  two  of  the  many 
fii!)or(iinate  tribes  that  were  in  pollef- 
llon  (lithe  peninkila  ;  viz.,  the  Monomoy- 
icks  at  Cliatham,  and  the  Naufets  at 
Eartiiam.  The  contiict  in  lioth  inrtances 
prew  out  of  an  attempt  on  the  part 
ot"  tiie  natives  to  commit  a  petty  theft. 
But  it  is  quite  polTihle  tliat  the  invalion 
of  their  territory  by  llranuers.  an  un- 
pardonal)le  offence  amontj  civilized  peo- 
ple, may  have  created  a  feelin,^;  of  hof- 
tility  tliat  found  a  partial  gratification 
in  tlealinc;  their  propertv:  and,  had  not 
this  occahon  offeretl.  the  itifled  feeling 
of  holblity  may  have  broken  out  in 
fome  otiier  form.  In  general,  they  were 
not  fuhlequently  untViendly  in  their  in- 
tercourfe  with  the  En^lilli.  The  Nau- 
fets were,  however,  the  fime  that  fent 
a  fhower  of  arrows  upon  the  I'ilgrims 
in  1620,  at  the  place  called  by  them  the 
"  V'wW  Encounter,"  and  nut  more  than 
three  miles  from  the  fpot  where  the 
fame  tribe,  in  1605.  had  attacked  the 
French,  and  flain  one  of  De  Monts's 
men.  It  mult,  however,  be  fud  th:it,  be- 
lide  the  invafion  oftiieir  C(juntry.  the  i'il- 
grims had.  fome  days  before,  riHed  the 
granaries  of  the  natives  dwelling  a  few 
miles  north  of  the  \aufet-,  and  taken 
away  without  leave  a  generous  quantitv 
of  their  winter's  fupply  of  ciirn  ;  and  this 
may  have  infpiretl  them  with  a  delire 
to  be  rid  of  vifitor.s  wiio  helped  thcni- 


felves  to  their  provillons,  the  fruit  of 
their  fummer's  toil,  their  dependence 
for  the  winter  already  upon  them,  with 
fo  little  ceremony  and  fuch  unfcrupu- 
lous  felfithni  Is  ;  for  fuch  it  mull;  have 
appeared  t)  L.  \'aufets  in  their  favage 
and  unenlightened  ilate.  It  is  to  be 
regretted  that  thefe  excellent  men,  the 
Pilgrims,  did  not  more  fully  compre- 
hend the  moral  charafter  of  their  con- 
duct in  this  inllance.  They  loll  at  the 
outlet  a  golden  opportunity  for  impref- 
fing  upon  the  minds  of  the  natives  the 
great  praftical  principle  enunciated  by 
our  Lord,  the  foundation  of  all  good 
neighborhood,  n;ii'r(j  uvv  ocru  av  dtXrjre 

tl'il      TTOliixTLl'     VflLl'     III     av6f)(iinul,      OVTU)     KOI 

vfxfli  naifLTf  avTdls.  Miit^.  vii.  12. — 
luff  BnidfonVs  Hijt.  Plym.  Plan- 
tation, pp.  82,  83;  Afourt's  l\clatio)t, 
London,  1622,  Dexter's  ed.,  pp.  21,  22, 

30-  31.  55- 

-''-  The  latitude  of  .'•-''iMka  Point,  the 
moll  foutliern  limit  it  'i'.'!)-  voyage,  is 
41°  31',  while  the  laiini  e  >f  Naufet 
Harbor,  the  fouthern  li  ^ii  of  that  of 
De  Monts  on  the  previou;:  year,  1605, 
is  41^  49'.  They  confequently  advanced 
but  iS'.  or  eighteen  nautical  miles,  fur- 
ther fouth  than  they  ditl  the  year  be- 
fore. Had  thev  commenced  this  year's 
explorations  where  thofe  of  the  preced- 
ing terminated,  as  Champlain  had  ad- 
vifed,  they  might  have  exi)lored  the 
whole  colli  as  far  as  Long  I  Hand  Sound. 
Viitc  anted,  pp.  109,  1 10. 


^f 


?(« 


*» 


Sieitr  de  Chaniplain. 


137 


Heading  eaft-north-eaft,  we  were  two  days  at  fea  without  fee- 
ing land,  being  kept  back  by  bad  weather.  On  the  following 
nio-ht,  we  fighted  the  iflands,  which  are  between  Ouinibequy 
and  Norumbegue.^'^''  The  wind  was  fo  ftrong  that  we  were 
obliged  to  put  to  fea  until  daybreak ;  but  we  wx^nt  fo  far  from 
land,  although  we  ufed  very  little  fail,  that  we  could  not  fee 
it  again  until  the  next  day,  when  we  faw  Ifle  Haute,  of  which 
we  were  abreafl. 

On  the  laft  day  of  Odober,  between  the  Ifland  of  Monts 
Deferts  and  Cap  Corneille,-"*  our  rudder  broke  in  feveral 
pieces,  without  our  knowing  the  reafon.  Each  one  ex- 
preffed  his  opinion  about  it.  On  the  following  night,  with 
a  frefli  breeze,  we  came  among  a  large  number  of  iflands  and 
rocks,  whither  the  wind  drove  us ;  and  we  refolved  to  take 
refuge,  if  poffible,  on  the  firft  land  we  fliould  find. 

We  were  for  fome  time  at  the  mercy  of  the  wind  and  fea, 
with  only  the  forefail  fet.  But  the  worfl  of  it  was  that  the 
night  was  dark,  and  we  did  not  know  where  we  were  going ; 
foi^our  barque  could  not  be  fleered  at  all,  although  we  did 
all  that  was  poffible,  holding  in  our  hands  the  flieets  of  the 
forefail,  which  fometimes  enabled  us  to  fleer  it  a  little.  We 
kept  continually  founding,  to  fee  if  it  were  poffible  to  find 
a  bottom  for  anchoring,  and  to  prepare  ourfelves  for  what 
might  happen.  But  we  found  none.  Finally,  as  we  were 
gohig  fafler  than  we  wifhed,  it  was  recommended  to  put  an 
oar  aftern  together  with  fome  men,  fo  as  to  fleer  to  an  iHand 
which  we  faw,  in  order  to  fhelter  ourfelves  from  the  wind. 
Two  other  oars  alfo  were  put  over  the  fides  in  the  after  part 

of 

233  Between  the  Kennebec  and  Penobfcot. 
23*  Vide  antea,  note  177- 
i3 


1' 

i 

:. 

1 

1 

t 

4 

\ 
i 

''if 


I 


•'■'  I 


fii 


■> 


■'k 


138 


Voyages  of 


of  the  barque,  to  affill:  thofe  who  were  fleering,  in  order  to 
make  the  velfel  bear  ujd  on  one  tack  and  the  other.  This 
device  ferved  us  fo  well,  tliat  we  headed  where  we  wiflicd, 
and  ran  in  behind  tlie  point  of  the  ifland  we  had  feen, 
anchoring  in  twenty-one  fatlionis  of  water  until  daybreak, 
when  we  propofed  to  reconnoitre  our  pofition  and  feek  for  a 
})Iace  to  make  another  rudder.  The  wind  abated.  At  day- 
break, we  found  ou'iclves  near  the  Ifles  Rangees,"'''^'  entirely 
furrounded  by  breakers,  and  we  praifed  God  for  having  pre- 
ferx'cd  us  fo  wonderfully  amid  fo  many  perils. 

On  the  ifl  of  November,  we  went  to  a  place  which  we 
deemed  favorable  for  beaching  our  veffel  and  repairing  our 
helm.  On  this  day,  I  landed,  and  faw  fome  ice  two  inches 
thick,  it  having  frozen  perhaps  eight  or  ten  days  before.  I 
obierved  alio  that  the  temperature  of  the  place  differed  very 
much  from  that  of  Mallebarre  and  Port  Fortune ;  for  the 
leaves  of  the  trees  were  not  yet  dead,  and  had  not  begun  to 
fall  when  we  fet  out,  while  here  they  had  all  fallen,  and  it 
was  much  colder  than  at  Port  Fortune. 

On  the  next  day,  as  we  were  beaching  our  barque,  a  canoe 
came  containinc:  Etechemin  favages,  who  told  the  favafje 
Secondon  in  our  barque  that  louanifcou,  with  bi.s  compan- 
ions, had  killed  fome  other  favages,  and  carried  off  fome 
women  as  prifoners,  whom  they  had  executed  near  the  Ifland 
of  IMonts  Deferts. 

On  the  9th  of  the  month,  we  fet  out  from  near  Cap  Cor- 

neille,  and  anchored  the  fame  day  in  the  little  paffage  -^''  of 

Sainte  Croix  River.  ^ 

On 

"-^^  fjlcs  Raiigt'c's.  tlie  fmall  iflands  '^'^  Prfif  fxrfcJi^r  <fc  hi  Riiiih-e  S,ii)!,7t' 
alont;  the  coall  routh-wcll  of  IMachias.  Croix,  the  routhcrn  llrait  loading  into 
I'ic/d  map  of  \G\z.  Kallpoit 


sJUDll "  "•■•'i  ""WMNIi"  i|i  i;-!; 


Siettr  de  Champlain. 


139 


On  the  morning  of  the  next  day,  we  landed  our  favage  with 
fome  fupplies  which  we  gave  him.  He  was  well  pleafed  and 
fatisfied  at  having  made  this  voyage  with  us,  and  took  away 
with  him  Ibme  heads  of  the  favages  that  had  been  killed  at 
Port  Fortune."''  The  fame  day  we  anchored  in  a  very 
pretty  cove"'^  on  the  fouth  of  the  Ifland  of  Manan. 

On  the  1 2th  of  the  month,  we  made  fail ;  and,  when  under 
way,  the  fliallop,  which  we  were  towing  aftern,  flruck  againft 
our  barque  fo  violently  and  roughly  that  it  made  an  opening 
and  flove  in  her  upper  works,  and  again  in  the  recoil  broke 
the  li-on  faflenings  of  our  rudder.  At  firft,  we  thought  that 
the  firft  blow  had  ftove  in  fome  planks  in  the  lower  part, 
which  would  have  funk  us ;  for  the  wind  was  fo  high  that  all 
we  could  do  was  to  carry  our  forefail.  But  finding  that  the 
damage  was  flight,  and  that  there  was  no  danger,  we  managed 
with  ropes  to  repair  the  rudder  as  well  as  we  could,  fo  as  to 
ferve  us  to  the  end  of  our  voyage.  This  was  not  until  the 
14th  of  November,  when,  at  the  entrance  to  Port  Royal,  we 
came  near  being  loft  on  a  point;  but  God  delivered  us  from 
this  danger  as  well  as  from  many  others  to  which  we  had 
been  expofed.-  CHAPTER   XVI. 


Eaftport  Harbor.  This  anchoracje  ap- 
pears to  have  been  in  (Xioddy  Roads 
between  Ouoddy  Head  and  Labeck. 

■■^3"  In  report! n<i  the  Itratajiem  reforted 
to  for  decoyins;  the  Iiuhans  into  the 
hands  of  the  French  at  Port  Fortune, 
Cliamplain  paiTes  over  tlie  details  of  the 
bioody  encounter,  doul)tlefs  <o  ipare 
himfelf  and  the  reader  the  painful  re- 
cord :  but  its  refults  are  here  dillinftly 
ilated.     Compare  antea,  pp.   132.  I33- 

•■^ss  Sailin-j  from  Quoddy  Head  to 
Annapolis   Bay,  they   would    in  their 


courfe  pafs  round  the  northern  point  of 
the  Grand  Manan  :  and  they  probably 
anchored  in  Wiiale  Cove,  or  i)eriiai)s 
in  Lonti  I  Hand  I'.ay,  a  little  further 
fouth.  Champlain's'maji  is  fo  oriented 
that  both  of  thefe  bays  would  appear  to 
be  on  the  fouth  of  the  Grand  Manan. 
Vide  map  of  161 2. 

^3'J  Cliamplain  had  now  completed  his 
furvey  fouth  of  the  15ay  of  Fundy.  He 
had  traced  the  fliore-line  with  its  linuol- 
ities  and  its  numberlefs  illands  far  be- 
yond the  two  dillinguilhed  headlands, 

Cape 


r  U  j 


T. 


/ill 

I 
I 


%.' 


■ 

'1   ' 
I   \ 


i      ll  (1  i! 


I 


If 


\ 


\m 


i 


-.  mtm  'Tfli***  *i*»**ii*irt*«^-c.  ■ 


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f 


l<     'S. 


140  Voyages  of 


CHAPTFR   XVI. 

Return  from  the  Foregoing  Discoveries,  and  what  transpired  dur- 
ing THE  Winter. 

PON  our  arrival,  Lcfcarbot,  who  had  remained 
at  the  fettlement,  affifted  by  the  others  who 
had  flayed  there,  welcomed  us  with  a  humorous 
entertainment?"^ 

Having  landed  and  had  time  to  take  breath, 
each  one  bcGran  to  make  litde  i^ardens,  I  amonoj  the  reft 
attending  to  mine,  in  order  in  the  Ipring  to  fow  feveral  kinds 
of  feeds  which  had  been  brought  from  France,  and  which 
grew  very  well  in  all  the  gardens. 

Sieur  de  Poutrincourt,  nioreover,  had  a  water-mill  built 
nearly  a  league  and  a  half  from  our  fettlement,  near  the 
point  where  grain  had  been  planted.     This  mill^'  was  built 

at 


Cape  Salile  and  Cape  Cod,  which  re- 
fpeClively  mark  the  entrance  to  theOulf 
of  Maine.  The  priority  of  thefe  obfer- 
vations.  particularly  with  reference  to 
the  habits,  mode  of  life,  and  characT,er 
of  the  aborij^dnes,  invell.s  them  with  an 
uiuifual  interell  and  value.  Anterior  to 
the  vifits  of  Chamjdain,  the  natives  on 
this  coait  had  come  in  contacl  with 
Europeans  but  rarely  and  incidentallv, 
altoi^ether  too  little  certainly,  if  we  ex- 
cept thofe  refidini;  on  the  fouthern  coall 
of  Nova  Scotia,  to  have  any  modifying; 
effect  upon  their  manners,  culloms,  or 
mode  of  life.  What  Champlain  reports, 
therefore,  of  the  Indians,  is  true  of  them 
in  tlicir  purely  favai^e  tlate,  untouched 
by  any  inriueiices  of  European  civiliza- 


tion. This  diftincjuifhes  the  record,  and 
gives  to  it  a  fpecial  importance. 

■■^*°  Lefcarbot,  the  author  of  a  Hiftory 
of  New  France  often  referred  to  in  our 
notes,  publilhed  a  volume  entitled  "  Lks 
Mrsics  i)K  LA  NovvKLLE  Fkaxce,"  in 
which  may  be  found  the  play  entitled  Le 
Thi-.atke  de  Nei'TVNE,  which  he  com- 
pofed  to  celebrate  the  return  of  this  ex- 
pedition. 

'^1  The  mill  is  reprefented  on  Cham- 
jjlain's  map  of  Port  Royal  as  fituated 
on  the  Itream  which  he  calls  Rivihe 
du  Moulin,  the  River  of  the  Mill.  This 
is  Allen  River:  and  the  fite  of  the  mill 
was  a  fliort  dillanco  fouth-ealf  of  the 
'•  point  where  corn  had  been  ]ilanted." 
which  was  on  the  fpot  now  occupied  by 
the  village  of  Annapolis. 


w^ss^mm 


Sieur  de  Cha7nplain, 


141 


at  a  fall,  on  a  little  river  which  is  not  navigable  on  account  of 
the  larsfe  number  of  rocks  in  it,  and  which  falls  into  a  Imall 
lake.     In  this  place,  there  is  fuch  an  abundance  of  herring 
in  their  feafon  that  fhallops  could  be  loaded  with  them,  if 
one  were  to  take  the  trouble  to  bring  the  requifite  apparatus. 
The  favages  alfo  of  this  region  come  here  fometimes  to  filh. 
A  quantity  of  charcoal  was  made  by  us  for  our  forge.     Dur- 
ing the  winter,  in  order  not  to  remain  id,"e,  I  undertook  the 
building  of  a  road  along  the  wood  to  a  little  river  or  brook, 
which  we  named  La    Truitiere,'^-  there  being  many  trout 
there.      I    afked    Sieur   de    Poutrincourt   for  two  or  three 
men,  which   he  gave    me  to  affift  in  making  this  paffage- 
way.     I  got  along  fo  well  that  in  a  little  while  I  had  the  road 
through.     It  extends  through  to  trout-brook,  and  meafures 
nearly  two  thoufand  paces.     It  ferved  us  as  a  walk  under  the 
flielter  of  the  trees,  which  I  had  left  on  both  fides.     This  led 
Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  to  determine  to  make  another  through 
the  woods,  in  order  that  we  might  go  flraight  to  the  mouth 
of  Port  Royal,  it  being  a  diftance  of  nearly  three  leagues  and 
a  half  by  land  from  our  fettlement.     He  had  this  commenced 
and  continued  for  about  half  a  league  from  La  Truitiere  ;  but 
he  did  not  finiili  it,  as  the  undertaking  was  too  laborious,  and 
he  was  occupied  by  other  things  at  the  time  more  neceffary. 
Some  time  after  our  arrival,  we  faw  a  fliallop  containing  fav- 
ages, who  told  us  that  a  favage,  who  was  one  of  our  friends, 
had   been  killed   by  thofe  belonging  to  the  place  whence 
they  came,  which  was  Norumbegue,  in  revenge  for  the  kill- 
ing of  the  men  of  Norumbegue  and  Quinibequy  by  louan- 
^  ifcou, 

•^4-!   Vide  antea,  note  212.     See  alfo  the  map  of  Port  Royal,  where  the  road  is 
delineated,  p.  24. 


=1 


! 


'   I' 

!     i 
I 


f' 


I  ill 

,    I 


I 


I 


II 


If 


i 


If 


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1 


»i'. 


4 


i 


142 


Voyages  of 


ifcoii,  alfo  a  lavage,  and  liis  followers,  as  I  have  before  re- 
lated ;  and  that  fome  Etechemins  had  informed  the  favage 
Secondon,  who  was  with  us  at  that  time. 

The  commander  of  the  (hallop  was  the  favage  named 
Oiiagimou,  who  was  on  terms  of  friendfliip  with  BeiTabez, 
chief  of  the  river  Norumbcgue,  of  whom  he  afked  the  body 
of  Panounias,"^^  who  had  been  killed.  The  latter  granted  it 
to  him,  begging  him  to  tell  his  friends  that  he  was  very  forry 
for  his  death,  and  alTuring  him  that  it  was  without  his  knowl- 
edge that  he  had  been  killed,  and  that,  inalmuch  as  it  was 
not  his  fault,  he  begged  him  to  tell  them  that  he  defired  they 
might  continue  to  live  as  friends.  This  Ouagimou  promifed 
to  do  upon  his  return.  He  faid  to  us  that  he  was  very  un- 
eafy  until  he  got  away  from  them,  whatever  friendfhip  they 
might  Ihow  him,  fmce  they  were  liable  to  change ;  and  he 
feared  that  they  would  treat  him  in  the  fame  manner  as  they 
had  the  one  who  had  been  killed.  Accordingly,  he  did  not 
tarry  long  after  being  difmiffed.  He  took  the  body  in  his 
fliallop  from  Norumbcgue  to  our  fettlement,  a  diftance  of 
fifty  leagues. 

As  foon  as  the  body  was  brought  on  fliore,  his  relatives 
and  friends  began  to  Ihout  by  his  fide,  having  painted  their 
entire  face  with  black,  which  is  their  mode  of  mourninc:. 
After  lamenting  much,  they  took  a  quantity  of  tobacco  and 
two  or  three  dogs  and  other  things  belonging  to  the  deccafed, 
and  burned  them  fome  thoufand  pnces  from  our  fettlement 
on  the  fea-fliore.  Their  cries  continued  until  they  returned 
to  their  cabin. 

The 

-^^  This    Indian    Panounias  and  his    on  his  expedition  to  Cape  Cod. —  Vide 
wife  had  accompanied  De  Monts  in  1605,    (mtea,  p.  55. 


•c- 


it 

ry 


Sieiir  de  Champlain. 


143 


The  next  clay  they  took  the  body  of  the  dccealcd  and 
wrapped  it  in  a  red  covering,  which  Mabretou,  chief  of 
this  place,  urgently  implored  me  to  give  him,  fmce  it  was 
handfome  and  large.  He  gave  it  to  the  relatives  of  che 
deceafed,  who  thanked  me  very  much  for  it.  After  thus 
wraj^ping  up  the  body,  they  decorated  it  with  feveral  kinds  of 
mntachiats ;  that  is,  firings  of  beads  and  bracelets  of  diverfe 
colors.  They  painted  the  face,  and  put  on  the  head  many 
feathers  and  other  things,  the  iinell  they  had.  Then  they 
placed  the  body  on  its  knees  between  two  (licks,  with  another 
under  the  arms  to  luftain  it.  Around  the  body  were  the 
mother,  wife,  and  others  of  the  relatives  and  fr'^nds  of  the 
decealed,  both  women  and  girls,  howling  like  dogs. 

While  the  women  and  ujirls  were  Ihriekinij:,  the  favaije 
named  Mabretou  made  an  addrefs  to  his  companions  on 
the  death  of  the  deceafed,  urging  all  to  take  vengeance  for 
the  wickednels  and  treachery  committed  by  the  fubjeds  of 
BeiTabez,  and  to  make  war  upon  them  as  fpeedily  as  poffible. 
All  agreed  to  do  fo  in  the  fpring. 

After  the  harangue  was  finiflied  and  the  cries  had  ceafed, 
they  carried  the  body  of  the  deceafed  to  another  cabin. 
After  fmoking  tobacco  together,  they  wrapped  it  in  an  elk- 
fkin  likewife ;  and,  binding  it  very  fecurely,  they  kept  it  until 
there  (liould  be  a  larger  number  of  favagcs  prefent,  from  each 
one  of  wl  om  the  brother  of  the  deceafed  expected  to  re- 
ceive prefents,  it  being  their  cuflom  to  give  them  to  thofe 
who  have  loft  fathers,  mothers,  wives,  brothers,  or  fifters. 

On  the  night  of  the  26th  of  December,  there  was  a  fouth- 
eaft  wind,  which  blew  down  feveral  trees.  On  the  laft  day 
of  December,  it  began  to  fnow,  which  continued  until  the 

morning 


\H 


» 


\ 


i 
* 

1  ' 

\ 

1 

i 

A 

1   ! 


■  'I 


\ 


rvm 


f 


,(• 


144 


Voyages  of 


•     f!      I  S 


!  I 


\\       ^   \ 


morning  of  the  next  clay.  On  the  i6tli  of  January  following, 
1607,  Sicur  dc  Poutrincourt,  dcfiring  to  alccnd  the  river 
Equille,'"^^  found  it  at  a  dillance  of  fome  two  leagues  from 
our  fettlemcnt  fealed  witli  ice,  which  caufed  him  to  return, 
not  being  able  to  advance  any  farther.  On  the  8th  of  TY'b- 
ruary,  fome  pieces  of  ice  began  to  flow  down  from  the  ujjper 
part  of  the  river  into  the  harbor,  which  only  freezes  along 
the  Ihore.  On  the  loth  of  May  following,  it  fnowed  all 
night;  and,  towards  the  end  of  the  month,  there  were  heavy 
h  oar-fro  (Is,  which  lafted  until  the  loth  or  12th  of  June,  when 
all  the  trees  were  covered  with  leaves,  except  the  oaks,  which 
do  not  leaf  out  until  al)out  the  15th.  The  winter  was  not  fo 
levere  as  on  the  preceding  years,  nor  did  the  fnow  continue 
fo  long  on  the  ground.  It  rained  very  often,  fo  that  the  fav- 
ages  fuffered  a  fevere  famine,  owing  to  the  fmall  quantity  of 
fnow.  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  fupportcd  a  part  of  them  who 
were  with  us;  namely,  Mabretou,  his  wife  and  children,  and 
fome  others. 

We  fpent  this  winter  very  pleafantly,  and  fared  generoufly 
by  means  of  the  Ordke  dI':  Bon  Temts,  which  I  introduced. 
This  all  found  ufeful  for  their  health,  and  more  advantaijcous 
than  all  the  medicines  that  could  have  been  ufed.  By  the 
rules  of  the  order,  a  chain  was  put,  with  fome  little  ceremo- 
nies, on  the  neck  of  one  of  our  company,  commiffioning  him 
for  the  day  to  go  a  hunting.  The  next  day  it  was  conferred 
upon  another,  and  thus  in  fucceffion.  All  exerted  themfelves 
to  the  utmoft  to  fee  who  would  do  the  beft  and  bring  home 
the  finell;  game.     We  found  this  a  very  good  arrangement,  as 

did  alfo  the  favacres  who  were  with  us.'*^  -n 

^  1  here 

^*  Now  the  Annapolis  River.  was  a  happy  one,  as  it  ferved  to  difpel 

2-"'  The  conceit  of  this  novel  order  the 


Mirl'vw'  taR  n-^**it  is»AeMM*  f ^*.«so  j  ?;,  ^i  i^>  -, .  ».V3 


\/\ 


•in 


lU 


Siettr  dc  Chaviplain. 


H5 


There  were  fonic  cafes  of  ma/  dc  la  tcrrc  among  us,  which 
was,  however,  not  lb  violent  as  in  the  previous  years.  Never- 
tlielefs,  feven  died  from  it,  and  another  from  an  arrow  wound, 
which  he  had  received  from  the  lavages  at  Port  P^ortune.-'" 

Our  furgeon,  named  Mafter  Eflienne,  opened  fome  of  the 
bodies,  as  we  did  the  pre\'ious  years,  and  found  ahiiofl  all  the 
interior  parts  affee"led.  Eight  or  ten  of  the  Tick  got  well  by 
fpring. 

At  the  beginning  of  March  and  of  April,  all  began  to  pre- 
pare gardens,  ib  as  to  plant  feeds  in  May,  which  is  the  j^roper 
time  for  it.  They  grew  as  well  as  in  France,  but  were  fome- 
what  later.  I  think  France  is  at  leafl  a  month  and  a  half 
more  forward.  As  I  have  flated,  the  time  to  plant  is  in  May, 
although  one  can  fometimes  do  fo  in  April ;  yet  the  feeds 
planted  then  do  not  come  forward  any  faller  than  thofe 
I)lanted  in  May,  when  the  cold  can  no  longer  damage  the 
plants  except  thofe  which  are  very  tender,  fince  there  are 
many  which  cannot  endure  the  hoar-frofts,  unlefs  great  care 
and  attention  be  exercifed. 

On  the  24th  of  May,  we  perceived  a  fmall  barque  -^^  of  fix 

or 


the  sjloom  of  a  long  winter  in  the  forefts 
of  La  Caflie,  as  well  as  to  inii^rove  the 
quality  and  variety  of  their  diet.  The 
^/^'M'//(',  or  gentlemen  of  the  i)arty,  were 
fifteen,  who  fervecl  in  turn  and  for  a 
(inL;;le  day  as  caterer  or  lleward,  the  turn 
of  ea(  h  recurrint;  once  in  fifteen  days. 
It  was  their  duty  to  add  to  the  ordinary 
fare  Inch  delicate  fifli  or  ij;anie  as  could 
he  cai)tured  or  fecured  by  each  for  his 
particular  dav.  They  always  had  fome 
delicacy  at  {ireakfalt  ;  hut  the  dinner 
was  tiie  great  ban(iuet.  when  the  rn  ll: 
inipoling  ceremony  was  oblerved. 
'^^  Cliamplain   does   not    inform    us 


how  many  of  Poutrincourt's  party  were 
killed  in  the  atTray  at  Chatham.  He 
mentions  one  as  killed  on  the  I'pot.  He 
fpeaks  of  carrying  away  the  "  dead 
bodies"  for  burial.  He  alfo  fays  they 
made  a  "deadly  aflault  "  upon  '"five  or 
fi.x  of  our  company  :  "  and  another  aj)- 
pears  to  have  clied  of  his  wounds  after 
their  return  to  J'ort  Royal,  as  llated  in 
the  text. 

-■»''  Vne  petite  ba^-que.  The  French 
barque  was  a  fmall  velTel  or  large  boat, 
rigged  with  two  malls  ;  and  thofe  em- 
ployed by  De  Monts  along  our  coalt 
varied  from  fix  to  eighteen  tons  burden, 
9  and 


) 

< 

1 

) 

11  \\ 


p 


M 


I 


1       ': 


•  i 


■)« 


146 


Voyiigcs  of 


or  fcven  tons'  Inirtlicii,  wliich  we  fciit  men  to  reconnoitre  ;  and 
it  was  found  to  be  a  young  man  from  St.  Malo,  named 
Chevalier,  wlio  brouglit  letters  from  Sieur  de  Monts  to  Sieur 
de  Poutrincourt,  by  which  he  direcT.ed  him  to  bring  back  his 
company  to  France.''"  He  alio  announced  to  us  the  birth  of 
Monfeigneur,  the  Duke  of  Orleans,  to  our  delight,  in  honor 
of  which  event  we  made  bonfires  and  chanted  the  Tc  Dcurn:^'^ 
Between  the  beginning  and  the  20th  of  June,  fome 
thirty  or  forty  favages  alTembled  in  this  place  in  order  to 
make  war  upon  the  Almouchiquois,  and  revenge  the  death 
of  Panounias,  who  was  interred  by  the  favages  according  to 
their  cuQom,  who  gave  afterwards  a  quantity  of  peltry  to  a 

brother 


and  mufl  not  he  confounded  with  our 
modern  l)ark.  wliich  is  j;cnerally  nnicii 
larger. 

The  I'lj/jft'iju,  often  mentioni'd  1>v 
Ciiami)hiin.  included  all  larL;e  velVels. 
thole  ufed  for  fifliintj.  the  fur-trade,  and 
the  tranfportation  of  men  and  fupplies 
for  the  colonv. 

The  c/ia/ouf'c  was  a  row-boat  of  con- 
venient llze  for  p'-'netralin^:  fhallow 
places,  was  draj;e;ed  behind  the  I)arciue 
in  the  ex])lorations  of  our  coall,  and 
ufed  for  minor  invelligations  of  rivers 
and  elhiaries. 

'Yhe  patiu/ii',  an  advice-boat,  is  rarely 
ufed  by  Cham])lain,  and  then  in  the 
place  of  the  (hallop. 

■•^'^  It  feems  that  youn^  Chevalier  had 
come  out  in  the  "Jonas."  the  fame  Ihip 
that  had  brouuht  out  Poutrincourt.  Lef- 
carbot.  and  others,  the  year  I)efore.  It 
had  Hopped  at  Canfeau  to  fifh  for  cod. 
It  !)roui^ht  the  unwelcome  news  that 
the  company  of  De  MontN  had  been 
broken  up ;  that  the  Hollanders,  con- 
ducted by  a  "  French  traitor  named  La 


wliich  rendered  it  imjiraflicable  to  fuf- 
tain.  as  '-tofore.  the  exjienfes  of  the 
compa  ^he  monopoly  of  the  fur- 
trade,   „ led    to    De   ^fonts    for   ten 

years,  had  been  refcinded  by  the  Kint^'s 
Council.  '•  We  were  very  fad,"  fays 
Lefcarbot,  "to  fee  fo  fine  and  holy  an 
undertakinc;  broken  off.  and  that  fo 
many  labors  and  perils  endured  had  re- 
fulted  in  nothing:  and  that  the  hope 
of  elbiblifhing  there  the  name  of  (Jod 
and  the  Catholic  Faith  had  difajipeared. 
N'otwithllanding,  after  M.  de  Poutrin- 
court had  a  long  while  mufed  here- 
upon, he  faid  that,  although  he  (In mid 
have  none  to  come  with  him,  except  his 
family,  he  would  not  forfake  the  enter- 
prife."  —  I/is.  A'oK.  J-'innie.  ]jar  M.  Lef- 
carbot, Palis.  1612.  |)|).  5yi-2. 

-'•'•'  On  the  i6th  of  April,  1607.  was 
born  the  fecond  fon  of  Henry  1\'.  by 
Marie  de  Medicis,  who  received  the 
title.  Le  Due  d'Orlt^ans.  In  France, 
public  rejoicings  were  univerfal.  On 
the  22d  of  the  month,  he  was  invelled 
with   the   infignia  of  the    Order   of  St. 


Jeuneffe."  had  delboyed  the  fur-trading     Michael  and  tiie  I  Lily  Oholl  with  -rcat 
elUiblilhments    on   the     St.    Lawrence,     pomp,  on  which  occafion  a  banquet  was 


1":    I ' 


'  \ 


Sicar  dc  Chaiiiplaln. 


147 


brother  of  liis.'-'""  Thu  prcfents  Ijcint;  niadc,  all  of  thcni  fct 
out  from  this  place  on  the  29th  of  Juik'  for  Chouacoct,  which 
is  the  country  of  the  /Mniouchiciuois,  to  eivjja^L^e  in  the  war. 

Sonic  days  after  the  arrival  of  the  above  Chevalier,  Sieur 
de  Poutrincourt  fent  him  to  tlie  rivers  St.  John-'"''  and  St. 
Croix'-'''-  to  trade  for  furs.  lUit  he  did  not  permit  him  to  ^t;i) 
without  men  to  brinuj  back  the  bar(|ue,  fmce  fome  had  re- 
ported that  he  defuvd  to  return  to  I^' ranee  with  the  velTel  in 
which  he  had  come,  and  leave  us  in  our  fettlement.  Lefcarbot 
was  one  of  thole  who  accompanied  him,  who  u|)  to  this  time 

had 


^iven  I'-y  tlic  Kini;;  in  tlip  i^rciit  Imll  at 
l'"oiUaiiiL'l)lc;ui.  and  in  tiic  cvcnin'^  the 
park  was  illuminated  i)y  bonfires  and  a 
pyrotc  luiic  difplay.  wliicli  was  witnellcd 
l/v  a  vail  concdurle  of  peojjje.  'Die 
youuii  prince  was  hapti/.ud  privately  by 
tlie  Cardinal  de  (".ondy,  hut  tiie  llale 
ceremonies  of  his  clirilleninji  were  de- 
laved,  and  ai)pear  never  to  have  taken 
place  :  he  died  in  the  fifth  year  of  his 
ajj;e,  never  havinii;  received  any  dirillian 
name.  —  /  'idf.  the  Life  of  Marie  dc 
Maiicis,  by  Miss  I'ardoe,  London.  1S52, 
Vol.  I.  ]).  416;  Memoirs  ol  tilt'  I  hike  of 
Siillw  Lennox,  trans.,  I'hila.,  1S17.  Vol. 


IV^'p.  140.       in  New   France,  the  little     a  mirket-hall.  wherein  niai 


din  and  Adaiidinci'h.  to  funimon  them 
lo  come  to  I'ort  Royal  .is  a  remle/vous. 
They  came  from  the  river  St.  John,  and 
from  the  rey;ion  of  (lafpe.  Their  pur- 
pofe  was  accompiilhed,  as  will  ap|)ear  in 
the  fe(piel. 

-■■''  /\t  St.  John,  they  vifited  the  cabin 
of  Secondon.  the  Sat;amore,  with  whom 
they  bartered  for  fome  furs.  Lefc.irljot, 
who  was  in  the  expedition,  lays.  "The 
town  of  <  )uy^outly  was  a  ujreat  enclofure 
upon  a  hill,  compalVed  about  with  hitrh 
and  fmall  trees,  tied  one  aL,Minll  an- 
other ;  and  within  it  many  cabins,  yreat 
and  I'mall.  one  of  which  was  as  lariie  as 

hiiuf(;hiil(ls 


colony  at  I'ort  Royal  attelled  their  loy- 
alty by  fuitable  manifellations  of  joy. 
*'  As  the  day  declined,"  fays  Lefcarbot, 
••  we  made  bonfires  to  celebrate  tlie  birth 
of  Monfeii^neui  le  Due  d'Orleans,  and 
caufed  our  cannon  and  talconets  to  thun- 
der forth  a,i,Min,  accompanied  with  i)lenty 
of  mufl^et-lhots.  havinjj;  before  for  this 
purpofe  chanted  a  /'('  neiiinP  —  /  ide 
His.  A'oii.  I'rance,  Paris,  1612,  p.  594. 

•■^su  Lefcarbot  fays  that  about  four 
hundred  fet  out  for  the  war  againll  the 
Almouchi()Uois,  at  Choiiacoet.  or  Saco. 
The  fav.x.^es  were  nearly  two  months  in 
alVembiini;  thcmrdves  to.LTcther.  Ma- 
bretou  had  fent  out  his  two  funs,  Actau- 


refided."  In  the  cabin  of  .S>_i  •  ndon.  they 
law  fome  eiiihty  or  a  hundretl  lavages, 
all  nearly  naked.  They  were  celebrat- 
iuLC  a  feall  which  they  call  Tid>a;j:;ie. 
Tiieir  chief  made  his  warriors  jkiI's  in 
review  before  his  t^uells. —  I'ide  His. 
Aon.  France,  par  i\I.  Lel'cu-bot,  i'aris, 
[612,  p.  5(>S. 

J52  xijey  found  fick  at  St.  Croix  that 
had  b,een  left  there  by  1  )e  Monts's  colony 
three  years  before,  (if  which  tliey  drank. 
Calks  were  still  lyinij  in  the  deferted 
court-yard  ;  and  others  had  l)ecn  ufed 
as  fuc'l  by  mariners,  wlio  had  chanced 
to  come  tliere. 


M 


\ 


■M 


'I 


i!U 


'y'^f 


/ft  f  •     (•'    i 
'I 


11m 


y 


V 

i  n 

I       I 
till 

Mr 


148 


Voyages  of 


had  not  left  Port  Royal.  This  is  the  farthcft  he  went,  only 
fourteen  or  fifteen  leagues  beyond  Port  Royal. 

While  awaitinc:  the  return  of  Chevalier,  Sieur  de  Poutrin- 
court  went  to  the  head  of  Baye  Fran^oife  in  a  fliallop  with 
feven  or  eisfht  men.  Leavini^  the  harbor  and  headinc:  north- 
eaft  a  quarter  eaft  for  fome  twenty-five  leagues  along  the 
coafl:,  we  arrived  at  a  cape  where  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  de- 
fired  to  afcend  a  cliff  more  than  thirty  fathoms  high,  in  doing 
which  he  came  near  lofing  his  life.  For,  having  reached  the 
top  of  the  rock  which  is  very  narrow,  and  which  he  had 
afcended  with  much  difficulty,  the  fummit  trembled  beneath 
him.  The  reafon  was  that,  in  courfe  of  time,  mofs  had  gath- 
ered there  four  or  five  feet  in  thicknefs,  and,  not  being  folid, 
trembled  when  one  was  on  top  of  it,  and  very  often  when  one 
ftepped  on  a  fione  three  or  four  others  fell  down.  Accord- 
ingly, having  gone  up  with  difficulty,  he  experienced  flill 
greater  in  coming  down,  although  fome  failors,  men  very 
dexterous  in  climbing,  carried  him  a  hawfer,  a  rope  of  me- 
dium fize,  by  means  of  which  he  defcended.  This  place  was 
named  Cap  de  Poutrincourt,-''^  and  is  in  latitude  45°  40'. 

We  went  as  far  as  the  head  of  this  bay,  but  faw  nothing 
but  certain  white  ftones  fi.utable  for  making  lime,  yet  they  are 
found  only  in  fiiiall  quantities.  We  law  alio  on  fome  iflands  a 
great  number  of  gulls.  We  captured  as  many  of  them  as  we 
wifhed.  We  made  the  tour  of  the  bay,  in  order  to  go  to  the 
Port  aux  Mines  where  I  had  previoully  been,"^  and  whither 

I 

'-^3  De  Laet's  map  has  C.  de  Poutrin-  It  is  fituated  at  tlie  entranre  of  the  Bafin 

court ;    the   map    of    the    En<,di(h    and  of  Minos,  and  about  eiyht  miles  fouth- 

F>ench  Co mmii Varies,  C.  Pendu  or  Split  weft  of  l^irrfhoroutjh.   The  point  of  tiiis 

Cape.     Iiailii)urton   lias  Split  Cape,   fo  cajjo  is  in  latitude  45"  20'. 
likewife  has  the  Admiralty  map  of  i860.        ^"  Vide  aniea,  p.  26. 


■I 


l*^  -I 


1  { 


Siettr  de  Champlaz^t. 


149 


I  conduced  Sicur  de  Poutrincourt,  who  colledcd  fomc  little 
pieces  of  copper  with  great  difficulty.  All  this  bay  has  a  cir- 
cuit of  perhaps  twenty  leagues,  with  a  little  river  at  its  head, 
which  is  very  fluggiih  and  contains  but  little  water.  There 
are  many  other  little  brooks,  and  fome  places  where  there 
are  good  harbors  at  high  tide,  which  rifes  here  five  fathoms. 
In  one  of  thefe  harbors  three  or  four  leagues  north  of  Cap 
de  Poutrincourt,  we  found  a  very  old  crofs  all  covered  with 
mofs  and  almofl  all  rotten,  a  plain  indication  that  before  this 
there  had  been  Chriftians  there.  All  of  this  country  is  cov- 
ered with  denfe  forefts,  and  with  fome  exceptions  is  not  very 

attra6live/^°^ 

From  the  Port  aux  Mines  ^'^  we  returned  to  our  fettle- 
ment.  In  this  bay  there  are  flrong  tidal  currents  running  in 
a  Ibuth-wefterly  diredion. 

On  the  1 2th  of  July,  Palleau,  fecretary  of  Sieur  de  Monts, 
arrived  with  three  others  in  a  fliallop  from  a  place  called 
Niganis,''"  diftant  from  Port  Royal  fome  hundred  and  fixty 
or  hundred  and  feventy  leagues,  confirming  the  report  which 
Chevalier  had  brought  to  Sieur  de  Poutrincourt. 

On  the  3d  of  July,'"^  three  barques  were  fitted  out  to  fend 

the 


^sn  The  author  is  here  fpeakinc;  of 
the  country  about  the  Hafin  of  Mines. 
Tiie  river  at  the  liead  of  the  bay  is  tlie 
Sluil)enacadie.  It  is  not  eafy  to  deter- 
mine where  the  mols-covered  crols  was 
found.  The  diltance  from  Cap  de  Pou- 
trincourt is  indefinite,  and  the  (hredion 
could  not  have  been  exactly  north. 
There  is  too  much  uncertainty  to  war- 
rant even  a  conjecture  as  to  its  locality. 

-s«  The  I'ortaux  Mines  is  Advocate's 
Harbor.— r7(/6'  antra,  p.  26.  antl  note  67. 

••^6'  Niganisisafmall  bayinthe  Illand 


of  Cape  T5rcton,  fouth  of  Cape  North  : 
by  De  Laet  called  Xiin^aitif  ;  En.ylilh 
and  French  Commiffaries,  A'ii^aiitj/ic  ; 
modern  majis,  A'/i;afi///i. 

■■^"8  The  3f/  0/  'July  was  doubtlefs  an 
error  of  the  printer  for  the  30th,  as 
appears  from  the  later  date  in  the  pre- 
cediuir  paragraph,  and  the  llatement  of 
Lefc  irbot,  that  he  left  on  the  30th  of 
July.  He  fays  they  had  one  large  barciue, 
t\v(')  fmall  onus,  a'nd  a  Ihallop.  One  of 
the  bnall  ones  was  fent  Ijefore,  wliile 
the  other  two  followed  on  the  30th  ;  and 

he 


\       i    i 


<  » 


:l.ilf 


(      1 


■vl 


t)   i  fi 

i 


'  ? 


'!  |i 


} 


w 


l^ 


150 


Voyages  of 


^\ 


u 


tlie  men  and  fiq^plies,  which  were  at  our  fettlement,  to  Can- 
feau,  diftant  one  hundred  and  fifteen  leagues  from  our  fettle- 
ment, and  in  latitude  45^^  20',  where  the  veffel -•"'''  was  engaged 
in  filhing,  which  was  to  carry  us  back  to  France. 

Sieur  de  Poutrincourt  fent  back  all  his  companions,  but 
remained  with  eight  others  at  the  fettlement,  fo  as  to  carry 
to  France  fome  grain  not  yet  quite  ripe.-"" 

On  the  loth  of  Augufl:,  Mabretou  arrived  from  the  war, 
who  told  us  that  he  had  been  at  Choiiacoet,  and  had  killed 
twenty  favages  and  wounded  ten  or  twelve ;  alfo  that  One- 
mechin,  chief  of  that  place,  Marchin,  and  one  other,  had  been 
killed  by  Safmou,  chief  of  the  river  of  Ouinibequy,  who  was 
afterwards  killed  by  the  companions  of  Onemechin  and  Mar- 
chin.  All  this  war  was  fimply  on  account  of  the  favage 
Panounias,  one  of  our  friends  who,  as  I  have  faid  above,  had 
been  killed  at  Norumbegue  by  the  followers  of  Onemechin 
and  IMarchin.  At  prefent,  the  chiefs  in  place  of  Onemechin, 
Marchin,  and  Safmou  are  their  fons :  namely,  for  Safmou, 
Pememen ;  Abriou  for  his  father,  Marchin ;  and  for  One- 
mechin, Oueconficq.  The  two  latter  were  wounded  by  the 
followers  of  Mabretou,  who  feized  them  under  pretence  of 
friendlhip,  as  is  their  falhion,  fomething  which  both  fides  have 


•s>\ 


to  guard  againfi:.-' 


lie  adds  that  Poutrincourt  remained 
eleven  days  lon^^er  to  await  tlie  ript-n- 
\\v^  of  their  i^rain.  whicli  ai^rees  witli 
Ciiamplain's  rul/fefjuent  ihUcment,  lliat 
he  left  with  Poutrincourt  on  tiie  nth  of 
Auu;ufl, —  ]'idc  I'is.  Xoh.  France,  1612, 
p.  O03. 

■.'5'j  j],(>  "Jonas." — Jli/cantt'ci,  p.  146. 

'■^'"'   I'/'ifc'  aiifi-a.  note  25,S. 

*'i  The   implacable   character  of  the 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

American  Indian  is  well  illuftrated  in 
this  Ikirmilh  which  took  place  at  Saco. 
The  old  chief  Mabretou.  whole  life  had 
been  ])rol()nired  throui,di  feveral  genera- 
tions, had  infpired  his  allies  to  revcn,ce, 
and  had  been  prefent  at  the  conthct. 
The  Indian  Panounias  had  been  killed 
in  an  affray,  the  particular  caufe  (  f 
which  is  not  Hated.  'I'o  avenijje  his 
death,  many  lives  were  loll  on  both  fides. 

The 


kj„im^&iiSmmmtmm^'' 


'f  ^l-j<^»->"- ..a:gr'  ' 


'  ^  Mi 


Sieur  de  Champlain.  1 5 1 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

The  Settlement  abandoned.  —Return  to  France  of  Sieur  de  Pou- 
trincourt  and  all  his  coimpany. 

N  the  I  ith  of  Auguft,  we  fct  out  from  our  fettle- 
ment  in  a  Ihallop,  and  coafted  along  as  far  as 
Cape  Fourchu,  where  I  had  prcvioufly  been. 

Continuing  our  courfe  along  the  coall:  as  far 
as  Cap  de  la  Hevc,  where  we  firfl  landed  with 
Sieur  de  Monts,  on  the  8th  of  May,  1604,'"-  we  examined 
the  coafl  from  this  place  as  far  as  Canfeau,  a  diftance  of 
nearly  fixty  leagues.  This  I  had  not  yet  done,  and  I  ob- 
ferved  it  very  carefully,  making  a  map  of  it  as  of  the  other 

coafls. 

Departing  from  Cap  de  la  Heve,  we  went  as  far  as  Sefam- 
bre,  an  iHan'd  fo  called  by  fome  people  from  St.  Malo,-*^''  and 
diftnnt  fifteen  leagues  from  La  Heve.  Along  the  route  are 
a  large  number  of  illands,  which  we  named  Les  Martyres,-"* 
fincelrome  Frenchmen  were  once  killed  there  by  the  (avages. 
Thefe  illands  lie  in  feveral  inlets  and  bays.   'In  one  of  them 

is 


Tlie  two  chiefs  of  Saco  were  flain,  and 
in  turn  the  autlior  of  their  death  per- 
ilhe  1  hv  tlie  hand  of  tlieir  friends.  Lef- 
cirhot  informs  us  tliat  Cliampdore.  under 
Poutrincourt,  fublequently  vifited  Saco, 
and  conciuiled  a  formal  peace  between 
tlie  l)eUi-erent  parties,  emphafizmsi  its 
iinportaiice  Ijy  impreffive  forms  and 
ceremonies. 

^'"   Vide  cintca,  ]).  9  ;in<^l  ""^^^  --• 
•■^•■••i  Scfainhrc.     Tiiis  name  was   prob- 
ably fuggelled  by  the  little  illet,  Cczcm- 


bir,  one  of  feveral  on  which  are  military 
works  for  the  defence  of  St.  Malo.  On 
De  Laet's  map  of  i6.:;3,  it  is  written 
Sc/?/n/>n- ;  on  that  of  Charlevoix.  1744, 
Shui-i)il»\'.  It  now  appears  on  the 
Admirallv  maps  corrupted  into  Sambro. 
There  is  a  cape  and  a  harbor  near  this 
iiland  which  bear  the  fame  name. 

■•i«  The  illands  ifretcliiuij:  along  from 
Cap  de  la  Heve  to  Sambro  Iiland  are 
called  the  Martyrcs  Iks  on  De  Laefs 
map,  1633. 


i  ! 


If  i  '■■ 


I 


\  h 


St 


'     1 


, 


,1: 


i! 


"I 


\ 


«Si 


%  % 


!«  \\ 


)  f  •  1 


152 


Voyages  of 


is  a  river  named  St.  Marguerite,-'"''  diftant  feven  leagues  from 
Sefambrc,  which  is  in  latitude  44"  25'.  The  illands  and 
coalls  are  tliickly  covered  with  pines,  firs,  birches,  and  other 
trees  of  inferior  quahty.     Filh  and  alfo  fowl  are  abundant. 

After  leaving  Sefambre,  we  paffed  a  bay  which  is  unob- 
ftrucled,  of  feven  or  eight  leagues  in  extent,  with  no  iilands 
except  at  the  extremity,  where  is  the  mouth  of  a  fmall  river, 
containing  but  little  water."'""'^  Then,  heading  north-eaft  a 
quarter  eall,  we  arrix'ed  at  a  harbor  diflant  eight  leagues  from 
Sefambre,  which  is  very  fuitable  for  veffels  of  a  hundred  or 
a  hundred  and  twenty  tons.  At  its  entrance  is  an  ifland. 
from  which  one  can  walk  to  the  main  land  at  low  tide.  We 
named  this  place  Port  Saincte  Helaine,^'*"'^  which  is  in  lati- 
tude 44^^  40'  more  or  lefs. 

From  this  place  we  proceeded  to  a  bay  called  La  Baye 
de  Toutes  Ifles,-'*^  of  fome  fourteen  or  fifteen  leagues  in  ex- 
tent, a  dangerous  place  on  account  of  the  prefence  of  banks, 
fhoals,  and  reefs.  The  country  prefents  a  very  unfavora- 
ble appearance,  being  filled  with   the  fame    kind    of   trees 

which 


I  V  : 
ill 


-"^  The  hay  into  which  tin's  river 
empties  Hill  retains  the  name  of  St. 
Mary::irct. 

-""  Halifax  Harbor.  Its  Indian  name 
was  Chehuclo,  written  on  the  maj)  of 
the  Englilh  and  French  CommilVaries 
S/iebiuti'i.  On  Cham])lain's  map,  i6[2, 
as  like-wife  on  that  of  De  I.aet.  i'')33.  it 
is  called  "  I'live  Sciuii'.''  perhaps  from 
/ahti\  fitjnifyinL;  th(;  unobllructed  l)ay. 

'"'"  Ei,<j;ht  ieatiues  from  the  liland  Se- 
famhre  or  Samhro  liland  would  take 
them  to  I'erpifiwick  Inlet,  which  is 
(louhtlefs  Le  Port  SaiiiHe  Ilelainc  of 
Champlaln.     The  latitude  of  this  harbor 


is  44°  41',  differino;  but  a  finsrle  minute 
from  that  of  the  text,  which  is  extraor- 
dinary, the  ufual  variation  beim;  from 
ten  to  thirty  minutes. 

'""  Xicomtau  ISay  is  fifteen  leagues 
from  I'er|)ifawick  Inlet  ;  but  La  luiyc  de 
TuHtts  Ijles  is,  more  (trictly  Ipeaking, 
an  archipelago,  extending  along  the 
coall.  fay  from  Clam  Hay  to  Liicomb 
Point,  as  may  be  feen  by  reference  to 
Champlain's  map.  1612,  and  that  of  De 
Laet.  1633,  Cruxius,  16O0,  and  of  Charle- 
voix. 1744.  Tlie  north-eallern  portion 
of  this  archi[)elago  is  now  ca'led,  ac- 
cording to  Laverdi^re,  'lland  Bay. 


8    l! 


,1^  \  ^ 


.^^.    ■  ■"'MiiiT-ffiiSf'' 


Siettr  de  Cliamplain. 


153 


■vvliicli  I  have  mentioned  before.     Here  we  encountered  bad 
weatlier. 

Hence  we  paffed  on  near  a  river,  fix  leagues  diftant,  called 
Riviere  de  I'lfle  Verte,""''  there  being  a  green  ifland  at  its 
entrance.  This  fliort  diftance  which  we  traverfed  is  filled 
with  numerous  rocks  extending  nearly  a  league  out  to  fea, 
where  the  breakers  are  high,  the  latitude  being  45"  15'. 

Thence  we  went  to  a  place  where  there  is  an  inlet,  with 
two  or  three  iflands,  and  a  very  good  harbor,'-"'  diftant  three 
leagues  from  I'lfle  Verte.  We  paffed  alfo  by  feveral  iilands 
near  and  in  a  line  with  each  other,  which  we  named  Iftes 
Rangees,'-^"'  and  which  are  diftant  fix  or  feven  leagues  from 
rifle  Verte.  Afterwards  we  paffed  by  another  bay-'-  con- 
taining feveral  iflands,  and  proceeded  to  a  place  where  we 
found  a  veffel  engaged  in  fifliing  between  fome  iflands,  which 
are  a  fliort  diftance  from  the  main  land,  and  diftant  four 
leagues  from  the  Rangees.  This  place  we  named  Port  de 
Savalette,-'^  the  name  of  ^^^e  mafter  of  the  veffel  engaged  in 

fifliing. 


2M  Riviere  de  VIJlc  Verte,  or  Green 
Ifland  River,  is  the  River  St.  Mary  ;  and 
Green  Ifland  is  Wed^e  Ifland  near  its 
mouth.  The  latitude  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  is  45°  3'.  This  httle  ifland  is 
called  /.  Verte  on  De  Laefs  map,  and 
likewife  on  that  of  Charlevoix  ;  on  the 
map  of  the  Englifli  and  French  Commif- 
faries.  I.ifcoml)  or  Green  Ifland. 

-"0  This  inlet  has  now  the  incongru- 
ous name  of  Country  Harlior  :  the  th.ree 
iflands  at  its  mouth  are  Harbor,  Goole, 
and  Green  Ifiands.  The  inlet  is  called 
Mocodome  on  Charlevoix's  map. 

^■1  Tliere  are  feveral  illets  on  tlie  eaft 
of  St.  Catharine's  River,  near  the  fliore, 
which  I.avordi^re  fuggefls  are  the  ///<•, 


Ra)igees. 


They  are  exceedingly  fmall, 


and  no  name  is  given  them  on  tlie  Ad- 
miralty charts. 

27^  Tor  Bay. 

2"3  Le  Port  de  Saimlette.  Obvioufly 
White  Haven,  whicii  is  four  leagues 
from  the  Rangees  and  flx  from  Canfeau, 
as  flated  in  the  text.  Lefcarbot  gives 
a  very  interefling  account  of  Captain 
Savalette.  the  old  Uafque  tifliernian, 
who  had  made  forty-two  voyages  into 
tliefe  waters.  He  had  been  eniinenUy 
fuccefsful  in  tifliing,  having  taken  daily, 
according  to  his  own  account,  fifty 
crowns"  worth  of  codfith,  and  expected 
his  voyage  would  yield  ten  thoufand 
francs.  His  veflel  was  of  eighty  tons 
burden,  and  could  take  in  a  luuidred 
thoufand  dry  codlifli.  He  was  well 
20  known, 


t    1    ' 


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154 


Voyages  of 


fifliing,  a  Balquc.  who  entertained  us  bountifully,  and  was 
very  glad  to  fee  us,  fnice  there  were  ra\'ages  there  who  pur- 
pofed  fome  harm  to  him,  which  we  prevented."'^ 

Leaving  this  place,  we  arrived  on  the  27th  of  the  month 
at  Canfeau,  diflant  fix  leagues  from  Port  de  Savalette,  having 
palTcd  on  our  way  a  large  number  of  illands.  At  Canfeau, 
we  found  that  the  three  barques  had  arrived  at  port  in  iatety. 
Champdore'  and  Lefcarbot  came  out  to  receive  us.  We  alfo 
found  the  velTel  ready  to  lail,  having  finilhed  its  filhing  and 
awaiting  only  fair  weather  to  return.  Meanwhile,  we  had 
much  enjoyment  among  thefe  iflands,  where  we  found  the 
greateft  polTible  quantity  of  rafjiberries. 

All  the  coafi:  which  we  palTed  along  from  Cape  Sable  to 
this  place  is  moderately  high  and  rocky,  in  moft  places  bor- 
dered by  numerous  illands  and  breakers,  which  extend  out 
to  lea  nearly  two  leagues  in  places,  and  are  very  unfavorable 
for  the  api)roach  of  veffels.  Yet  there  cannot  but  be  good 
harbors  and  roadfleads  along  the  coafls  and  illands,  if  they 
were  explored.  As  to  the  country,  it  is  worfe  and  lefs  prom- 
ifmg  than  in  other  places  which  we  had  leen,  except  on  ibme 
rivers  or  brooks,  where  it  is  very  pleafant ;  but  there  is  no 
doubt  that  the  winter  in  thefe  regions  is  cold,  lailing  from  fix 
to  feven  months. 

The  harbor  of  Canfeau'"'"'  is  a  place  furrounded  by  iflands, 

to 

known,   and  a   great  favorite  with   tlie  Savalette's  fifli  wlien  tliey  canu;  in,  and 

voya.tiers  to  tliis  ctiart.     He  was  from  St.  approjiriating   tlicm    to  iheir  own   ufe, 

Jean  de  Luz,  a  linall  feaport  town  in  tlie  nolens  i<olt'ns. 

department  of  ilie   Lower  Pyrenees   in  ^"^  Canfeau.        Currency    li.is     l)een 

France,  near  the  borders  of  Spain,  (lillin-  given  to  an  idle  fancy  tiiat   tliis  name 

guilhed  even  at  tliis  day  for  its  filhing  was   derived    from     that   of    a    frencli 

interell.  navigator,   hut   it  lias  l)L'en   alunulantly 

-"■•  Tiie  Indians  were  in  tlie  habit  of  (hfproved  by  the  Abbe  Laverdiere.      It 

feleciing  from  chiy  to  day  the  bell  of  is  undoubtedly  a  word  of  Indian  origin. 


". .'," 'x  '  -"."'.t"'~'"C" -'Zlii.:^.nB"rnT"*".' — 


w#iii)t:i^ii^M.^iiittj,^jj^:L :.  J 


■PBi 


Siettr  de  Cha7nplain. 


155 


to  which  the  approach  is  very  difficult,  except  in  fair  weather, 
on  account  of  the  rocks  and  breakers  about  it.  Fiihing,  both 
green  and  dry,  is  carried  on  here. 

From  this  place  to  the  Ifland  of  Cape  Breton,  which  is  in 
latitude  45"  45'  and  14"  50'  of  the  defledion  of  the  magnetic 
needle,^^''  it  is  eight  leagues,  and  to  Cape  Breton  twenty-five. 
Between  the  two  there  is  a  large  bay,'-^'^  extending  fome  nine 
or  ten  leagues  into  the  interior  and  making  a  paffage  between 
the  Ifland  of  Cape  Breton  and  the  main  land  through  to  the 
great  Bay  of  St.  Lawrence,  by  which  they  go  to  Gafpe  and 
Ifle  Percee,  where  fifliing  is  carried  on.  This  paffage  along 
the  Ifland  of  Cape  Breton  is  very  narrow.  Although  there 
is  water  enough,  large  veffels  do  not  pals  there  at  all  on 
account  of  the  ftrong  currents  and  the  impetuofity  of  the 
tides  which  prevail.  This  we  named  Le  Paffage  Courant,'"^"' 
and  it  is  in  latitude  45"  45'. 

The  Ifland  of  Cape  Breton  is  of  a  triangular  fliape,  with  a 
circuit  of  about  eighty  leagues.  Moft  of  the  country  is  moun- 
tainous, yet  in  fome  parts  very  pleafant.     In  the  centre  of  it 

there 


^''^  The  variation  of  the  magnetic 
needle  in  1871,  fifteen  miles  fouth  of  the 
Harbor  of  Canfeau,  was,  according  to 
the  Admiralty  charts,  23°  weft.  The 
magnetic  needle  was  employed  in  navi- 
gation as  early  as  the  year  1200,  and  its 
variation  had  been  difcovered  before 
the  time  of  Columbus.  But  for  a  long 
period  its  variation  was  fuppofed  to  be 
fixed  ;  that  is  to  fay,  was  fuppofed  to 
be  always  the  fame  in  the  fame  locality. 
A  few  years  before  Champlain  made  his 
voyages  to  America,  it  was  difcovered 
tl.at  its  variation  in  Paris  was  not  fixed, 
!  ut  that  it  changed  from  year  to  year. 
li  Champlain  was  aware   of   this,  his 


defign  in  noting  its  exatt  variation,  as 
he  did  at  numerous  points  on  our  coalf, 
may  have  been  to  furnifli  data  for  de- 
termining at  fome  future  day  wliether 
the  variation  were  changeable  here  as 
well  as  in  France.  But,  whether  he  was 
aware  of  the  difcovery  then  recently 
made  in  Paris  or  not,  he  probably  in- 
tended, by  noting  the  declination  of  the 
needle,  to  indicate  his  longitude,  at 
lealf  approximately. 

«T  Chedabufto  ]5ay. 

2'8  The  Strait  of  Canfeau.  Cham- 
plain gives  it  on  his  map,  161 2.  PaJ'aire 
dit  glas;  De  Laet,  1633,  Paffnge  dtt 
gla's ;  Creuxius,    1660,  Fretuin    Cavip- 

feiiimj 


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Voyages  of 


there  is  a  kind  of  lake,-"''  where  the  fea  enters  by  tlie  north 
a  quarter  north-well,  and  aho  by  the  Ibuth  a  quarter  fouth- 
eafh'-'""  Here  are  many  illands  filled  with  plenty  of  game, 
and  Ihell-filh  of  various  kinds,  including  oylters,  which,  how- 
ever, are  not  of  very  good  flavor.  In  this  place  there  are 
two  harbors,  where  fiihing  is  carried  on  ;  namely,  Le  Port 
au\  Anglois,^*"  diflant  from  Caj)e  Breton  fome  two  or  three 
leagues,  and  Niganis,  eighteen  or  twenty  leagues  north  a 
quarter  north-weli  The  Portuguefe  once  made  an  attempt  to 
fettle  this  illand,  and  Ipent  a  winter  here ;  but  the  inclemency 
of  he  ieafon  and  the  cold  caufed  them  to  abandon  their 
fettlement. 

On  the  3d  of  September,  we  fet  out  from  Canfeau.  On 
the  4th,  we  were  off  Sable  Illand.  On  the  6th,  we  reached 
the  Grand  Bank,  where  the  catching  of  green  fifh  is  carried 
on,  in  latitude  45"  30 .  On  the  26th,  we  entered  the  found 
near  the  Ihores  of  Brittany  and  England,  in  fixty-five  fath- 
oms of  water  and  in  latitude  49"  30'.  On  the  28th,  we  put 
in  at  Rofcou,-''^'  in  lower  Brittany,  where  we  were  detained 
by  bad  weather  until  the  lafl  day  of  September  when,  the 
wind  coming  round  fa\'orable,  we  put  to  fea  in  order  to  pur- 

fue 


femm ;  Charlevoix,  1744,  Pajfai^c  dc 
Canceaii.  It  appears  from  tlie  above 
that  the  early  name  was  foon  fuper- 
feded  by  that  wliich  it  now  bears. 

27«  Now  called  La  /has  d'Or,  The 
Golden  Arm. 

^'''•'  There  is,  in  fact,  no  paiTage  of  La 
Bras  d'Or  on  the  fouth-well  ;  and 
Champlain  corrects  his  error,  as  may  be 
feen  l)y  reference  to  his  map  of  161 2. 
It  may  alfo  lie  itated  tiiat  tiie  fea  enters 
from  tiie  north-eall:.  Nordoiirjl  in  the 
original  is  here  probably  a  typographical 


error  for  iiordcjt.  There  are,  indeed,  two 
palTages,  both  on  tiie  north-eall,  ilif- 
tinguidied  as  the  Great  and  the  Little 
Bras  d'Or. 

^'^i  Le  Port  aux  Ans;lois,  the  Harbor 
of  the  Englifh.  On  De  Laet's  ma|). 
Port  aux  Angloix.  This  is  the  Harhor 
of  Louif burgh,  famous  in  th^  hillory 
of  the  I  (land  of  Cape  Breton. 

-**-  Rofcoff,  a  fmall  feaport  town.    C)n 
Mercator's  Atlas  of  16 
Rofcou,  as  in  the  text. 


23,  it  IS  written 


A 


•»■*?«■ 


Sieur  de  Champlain. 


157 


fuc  our  route  to  St.  Malo,"^^  which  formed  the  termination  of 
thefc  voyages,  in  which  God  had  guided  us  widiout  fliipwreck 


or  danger. 


End  of  the  Voyages  from  the  Year  1604  to  1608. 


!'!     : 


283  AccorclinjT  to  Lefcarbot,  they  re- 
mained at  St.  Malo  eight  clays,  when 
tliey  went  in  a  bar((ue  to  Honfleur. 
narrowly  efcaping  fliipwreck.  Poutrin- 
coiirt  proceeded  to  Paris,  where  he  ex- 
hibited to  Henry  IV.  corn,  wheat,  rye, 
ijarley,  and  oats,  produfts  of  the  colony 
which  he  had  fo  often  promifed  to  chcr- 
ifli.  buL  whofe  means  of  fublillence  he 
iiad  now  neverthelefs  ungracioufly  taken 
away.      Poutrincourt  alfo  prefented  to 


him  five  oii/lards,  or  wild  geefe,  which 
he  had  bred  from  the  fliell.  The  king 
was  greatly  delighted  with  them,  and 
had  them  preferved  at  Fontaincbleau. 
Thefe  exhibitions  of  the  prodiids  of 
New  France  had  the  defired  effcd  upon 
the  generous  heart  of  Henry  IV.;  and 
De  Monts's  monopoly  of  the  fur-trade 
was  renewed  for  one  year,  to  furnirta 
fome  flight  aid  in  eftablifliing  his  colon- 
ies in  New  France. 


..!' 


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If 


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til- 


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a'M%  V 


•i-^^^^^'^.-ai'^^^vt 


;iA^^;g|Ljg,;,b^«^ji^^^  1 


THE    VOYAGES 


TO   THE 


GREAT    RIVER    ST.   LAWRENCE, 

MAI5E   BY 

SI1<:UR   DE   CHAMPLAIN, 

Captatn  in  Ordinarv  to  the  King  in  the  Marine, 

FROM    THE    YEAR     1608     TO    THAT    OF     161 2. 


I  *     •' 


CHAPTER   I. 

Determination  of  Sieur  de  Monts  to  make  Explorations  in  the  In- 
terior ;  his  Commissh)n,  and  its  Infringement  uy  the  Basques,  who 

DISARMED  THE  VESSEL  OF  PONT  GRAVE  ;    AND  THE  AGREEMENT  BETWEEN 
THEM   WHICH   THEY   SUBSEQUENTLY   MADE. 

AVING  returned  to  France  after  a  {lay  of  three 
years  in  New  France;**^  I  proceeded  to  Sieur  de 
Monts,  and  related  to  him  the  principal  events 
of  which  I  had  been  a  witnefs  fnice  his  depart- 
ure, and  gave  him  the  map  and  plan  of  the  moft 
remarkable  coafts  and  harbors  there. 

Some  time  afterward,  Sieur  de  Monts  determined  to  con- 
tinue his  undertaking,  and  complete  the  exploration  of  the 

interior 

2^8  Champlain  arrived  on  the  (hores  of  had  confequently  been  on  our  coaft 
America  on  tlie  8th  of  May,  1604,  and  three  years,  three  months,  and  twenty- 
left  on  the  3d  of  September,  1607.     He    five  days. 


Ill 


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Voyao^cs  of 


interior  along  tlie  great  river  St.  Lawrence,  where  I  liad 
been  by  order  of  the  late  King  Henry  the  Great'-'"'  in  tiie 
year  1603,  for  a  dillance  of  fome  hundred  and  eighty  leagues, 
commencing  in  latitude  48"  40',  that  is,  at  Gafpe,  at  the 
entrance  of  the  river,  as  far  as  the  great  fall,  which  is  in  lati- 
tude 45"  and  fome  minutes,  where  our  exploration  ended,  and 
where  boats  could  not  j^afs  as  we  then  thought,  fuice  we 
had  not  made  a  careful  examination  of  it  as  we  have  fmce 
done.-^'* 

Nov.  after  Sieur  de  Monts  had  conferred  with  me  fevcral 
times  in  regard  to  his  purpofes  concerning  the  exploration, 
he  refoh'ed  to  continue  fo  noble  and  meritorious  an  under- 
taking, notwithitanding  the  hardlhips  and  labors  of  the  part. 
He  honored  me  with  his  lieutenancy  for  the  voyage ;  and,  in 
order  to  carry  out  his  purpofe,  he  had  two  veffels  equipped, 
one  commanded  by  Pont  Grave,  who  was  commiffioned  to 
trade  with  the  faxages  of  the  country  and  bring  back  the 
veffels,  while  I  was  to  winter  in  the  country. 

Sieur  de  Monts,  for  the  purpofe  of  defraying  the  expenfes 
of  the  expeditio.'  obtained  letters  from  his  IVIajefty  for  one 
year,  by  which  all  perfons  were  forbidden  to  traffic  in  peltry 
with  the  favages,  on  penalties  ftated  in  the  following  com- 
miffion :  — 

Henry  \\\  thk  grace  of  God  King  of  France  and 
Navarre,  to  our  beloved  and  faithful  Councillors,  the  officers 

of 

2s*  The  latr  King  Henry  the  Great.         '^^^  In  the  preliminary  voyage  of  1603, 

Henry  IV.  died  in  1610,  and  this  intro-  Cliami^lain  afcended  the  St.  Lawrence 

duclory  palTage  was  ohvioufly  written  as  far  as  the  falls  of   St.  Louis,  above 

after  tliat  event,  probably  near  the  time  Montreal, 
of  the  publication  of  his  voyages  in  1613. 


r< 


Sienr  do  Cliaviplain. 


i6i 


of  our  Admiralty  in  Normandy,  Brittany,  and  Guicnnc,  bail- 
iffs, marllials,  prcvofls,  judL^es,  or  their  lieutenants,  and  to 
each  one  of  tliem,  according  to  his  authority,  throughout  the 
extent  of  their  i)o\vers,  jurildic^ions,  and  jirecincls,  greeting: 
Acting  ui)on  the  information  which  has  been  gi\en  us 
by  thole  who  have  returned  from  New  France,  refpecling  the 
good  cpiality  and  fertility  of  the  lands  of  that  country,  and 
the  difpofition  of  the  })e()ple  to  accept  the  knowledge  of  God, 
We  have  refolved  to  continue  the  fettlement  previoully  un- 
dertaken there,  in  order  that  our  fubjecHs  may  go  there  to 
trade  without  hinderance.  And  in  view  of  the  propofition 
to  us  of  Sieur  dc  Monts,  Gentleman  in  Ordinary  of  our 
chamber,  and  our  Lieutenant-General  in  that  country,  to  make 
a  fettlement,  on  condition  of  our  giving  him  means  and  lup- 
plies  for  fuffaining  the  expenle  of  it,-""^  it  has  pleafed  us  to 
promife  and  allure  him  that  none  of  our  fubjecls  but  himfelf 
(hall  be  permitted  to  trade  in  peltry  and  other  merchandife, 
for  the  period  of  one  year  only,  in  the  lands,  regions,  harbors, 
rivers,  and  highways  throughout  the  extent  of  his  jurifdic- 
tion :  this  We  defirc  to  have  fulfilled.  For  thefe  caules  and 
other  confiderations  impelling  us  thereto,  Wc  command  and 
decree  that  each  one  of  you,  throughout  the  extent  of  your 
powers,  jurifdiclions,  and  precincT:s,  fliall  acS;  in  our  Head 
and  carry  out  our  will  in  dillindly  prohibiting  and  forbidding 
all  merchants,  mafters,  and  captains  of  veffels,  alio  failors  and 
others  of  our  fubjecls,  of  whatever  rank  and  profeffion,  to  fit 
out  any  veffels,  in  which  to  go  themfelves  or  lend  others  in 

order 

-se  Tlie  contribution  by  Henry  IV.     monopoly  of  the  fur-trade  granted  by 
did   not   probably  extend  beyond   the    him  in  this  commiffion. 

21 


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162 


Voyages  of 


order  to  engage  in  trade  or  barter  in  peltry  and  other  things 
with  tlie  ravages  of  New  France,  to  vifit,  trade,  or  communi- 
cate with  them  during  the  fpace  of  one  year,  within  the  jurif- 
didion  of  Sieur  de  Monts,  on  penalty  of  difobedience,  and 
the  entire  confifcation  of  their  veffels,  fupplies,  arms,  and 
merchandife  for  the  benefit  of  Sieur  de  Monts;  Did,  in  order 
that  the  punilhment  of  their  difobedience  may  be  affured, 
you  will  allow,  as  We  have  and  do  allow,  the  aforelaid  Sieur 
de  Monts  or  his  lieutenants  to  feize,  apprehend,  and  arrell 
all  violators  of  our  prefent  prohibition  and  order,  alio  their 
veffels,  merchandife,  arms,  fupplies,  and  victuals,  in  order  to 
take  and  deliver  them  up  to  the  hands  of  juffice,  fo  that 
action  may  be  taken  not  only  againft  the  perfons,  but  alfo 
the  property  of  the  offenders,  as  the  cafe  fliall  require.  This 
is  our  will,  and  We  bid  you  to  have  it  at  once  read  and  pub- 
lifhed  in  all  localities  and  public  places  within  your  authority 
and  jurifdiction,  as  you  may  deem  neceiVary,  by  the  firff  one 
of  our  officers  or  fergeants  in  accordance  with  this  requifition, 
by  virtue  of  thefe  prefents,  or  a  copy  of  the  fame,  properly  at- 
tefted  once  only  by  one  of  our  well-behoved  and  faithful  coun- 
cillors, notaries,  and  fecretaries,  to  which  it  is  Our  will  that 
credence  Ihould  be  given  as  to  the  prefent  original,  in  order 
that  none  of  our  fubjects  may  claim  ground  for  ignorance, 
but  that  all  may  obey  and  acft  in  accordance  with  Our  will 
in  this  matter.  We  order,  moreover,  all  captains  of  veffels, 
mates,  and  fecond  mates,  and  failors  of  the  fame,  and  others 
on  board  of  velTels  or  Ihips  in  the  ports  and  harbors  of  the 
aforefaid  country,  to  permit,  as  We  have  done,  Sieur  de  Monts, 
and  others  poffe'i^ng  power  and  authority  from  him,  to  fearch 
the  aforefaid  velTels  which  Ihall  have  engaged  in  the  fur-trade 

after 


-^jeasu.- 


■  \ 


Sienr  de  Champlaiii, 


163 


after  the  prefent  prohibition  fhall  have  been  made  known  to 
them.  It  is  Our  will  that,  upon  the  requifition  of  the  afore- 
faid  Sieur  de  Monts,  his  lieutenants,  and  others  having 
authority,  you  fliould  proceed  againft  the  difobedient  and 
offenders,  as  the  cafe  may  require  :  to  this  end,  We  give  you 
power,  authority,  commiffion,  and  fpccial  mandate,  notwith- 
flanding  the  a61  of  our  Council  of  the  17th  day  of  July  laft,-"^ 
any  hue  and  cry,  Norman  charter,  accufation,  objeclion,  or 
appeals  of  whatfoever  kind  ;  on  account  of  whic  ,  and  for 
fear  of  difregarding  which,  it  is  Our  will  that  there  Ihould  be 
no  d'  lay,  and,  if  any  of  thefe  occur.  We  have  withheld  and 
referved  cognizance  of  the  fame  to  Ourfelvcs  and  our  Council, 
apart  from  all  other  judges,  and  have  forbidden  and  prohib- 
ited the  fame  to  all  our  courts  and  judges:  for  this  is  Our 
pleafure. 

Given  at  Paris  the  feventh  day  of  January,  in  the  year  of 
grace,  fixteen  hundred  and  eight,  and  the  nineteenth  of  Our 


reign. 


Signed, 


HENRY. 


And  lower  down,  By  the  King,  Delomenie.  And  fcaled 
with  the  lingle  label  of  the  great  feal  of  yellow  wax. 

Collated  with  the  original  by  me,  Councillor,  Notary,  and 
Secretary  of  the  King. 

I  proceeded  to  Honfleur  for  embarkation,  where  I  found 
the  veffel  of  Pont  Grave  in  readinefs.  He  left  port  on  the 
5th  of  April.  I  did  fo  on  the  13th,  arriving  at  the  Grand 
Bank  on  the  15th  of  May,  in  latitude  45°  i^'.     On  the  26th, 

we 


\  ,\ 


ifl 


ili  i' 


:  v! 
1  Ji  'I 


'li: 


iW 


2"  This,  we  prefume,  was  the  a(5t  aL  ogating  the  charter  of  De  Alonts  granted 
in  1603. 


I    ■  I  s^ 


\ 


4 


i  y 


'  I 


164 


Voyages  of 


we  fighted  Cape  St.  Mary,^^^  in  latitude  46"  45',  on  the  Ifland 
of  Newfoundland.  On  the  27th  of  the  month,  we  fighted 
Cape  St.  Lawrence,  on  Cape  Breton,  and  alfo  the  Ifland  of 
St.  Paul,  diftant  eighty-three  leagues  from  Cape  St.  Mary.-'*'' 
On  the  30th,  we  fighted  I  fie  Percee  and  Gafpe,^""  in  latitude 
48°  40',  diflant  from  Cape  St.  Lawrence  from  feventy  to 
feventy-five  leagues. 

On  the  3d  of  June,  we  arrived  before  Tadouffac,  diftant 
from  Gafpe  from  eighty  to  ninety  leagues ;  and  we  anchored 
in  the  roadftead  of  Tadouffac,-"'*  a  league  diflant  from  the 
harbor,  which  latter  is  a  kind  of  cove  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Saguenay,  where  the  tide  is  very  remarkable  on  ac- 
count of  its  rapidity,  and  w^  ere  there  are  fometimes  violent 
winds,  bringing  fevere  cold.  It  is  maintained  that  from  the 
harbor  of  Tadouffac  it  is  fome  forty-five  or  fifty  leagues  to 
the  firffc  fall  on  this  river,  which  comes  from  the  north-north- 

wefl. 


w 


"'^  This  cape  flill  retains  its  ancient 
name,  and  is  lituated  between  St. 
Mary's  Bay  anfl  Fl  icentia  Bay. 

-""  Ca])e  .St.  Lawrence  is  tlie  nortliern- 
molt  extremity  of  tlie  liland  of  Cape 
Breton,  and  tlie  liland  of  St.  Paul  is 
twenty  miles  north-ealt  of  it. 

iwo  -p],e  ij]e  Percde.  or  pierced  ifland, 
is  a  fhort  diltance  north  of  the  liland  of 
Bonaventure.  at  the  entrance  of  Mai 
Bay,  near  the  village  of  I'crcee,  where 
there  is  a  government  li.ijht.  Gafpd 
Bay  is  fome  miles  farther  north.  "Be- 
low the  hay."  fays  Charlevoix,  "we 
perceive  a  kind  of  ifland.  which  is  only 
a  lleep  rock  about  thirty  fathoms  long, 
ten  high,  and  four  in  breadth  :  it  looks 
like  ])art  of  an  old  wall,  and  they  fay  it 
joined  formerly  to  Afouiit  lo!i,  which  is 
over  againll  it  on  the  continent.  This 
rock  has  in  the  midll  of  it  an  opening 


like  an  arch,  under  which  a  boat  of 
Bifcay  may  pafs  with  its  fail  up,  and 
this  has  given  it  the  name  of  the  pierced 
xWrmAr  —  Letters  to  the  Duchefs  of 
Lefdii^uii'res.  by  Francis  Xavier  de 
Charievoi.x,   London,  1763,  p.  12. 

-"'  The  i)olition  in  the  roadltead  was 
fouth-eaft  of  the  harbor,  lb  that  the  har- 
bor was  feen  on  the  north-welL  Char- 
levoi.K  calls  it  Moulin  Haude.  The 
reader  will  find  the  polition  indicated 
by  the  letter  M  on  Champlain's  map  of 
the  Bort  of  TadoulVac.  Baude  Moulin 
(Baude  Mill),  directly  north  of  it,  was 
prol)ai)ly  a  mill  prh'ilege.  Charlevoix, 
in  1 720,  anchored  there,  and  alked 
them  to  fhow  him  the  mill  :  and  they 
Ihowed  him  fome  rocks,  from  which 
ilTued  a  fVeam  of  clear  water.  He  adds, 
tiiey  mii;ht  build  a  water-mill  here,  but 
proljably  it  will  never  be  done. 


i\ 


h^  ,ki 


rt>Bfii;>i  iiT  rlirtifiai 


Sietir  de  Champlain. 


165 


vvefl.     The  harbor  is  fmall,  and  can  accommodate  only  about 
tvvL-nty  veffels.     It  has  water  enough,  and  is  under  flielter 
of  the  river  Saguenay  and  a  little  rocky  ifland;   which  is 
almofi  cut  by  the  river;  elfewhere  there  are  very  high  moun- 
tains with  little  foil  and  only  rocks  and  fand,  thickly  covered 
with  fuch  wood  as  fir  and  birch.     There  is  a  fmall  pond  near 
the  harbor,  fhut  in  by  mountains  covered  with  wood.     There 
are  two  points  at  the  mouth:  one  on  the  fouth-wefl:  fide,  ex- 
tending out  nearly  a  league  into  the  fea,  called  Point  St. 
Matthew,  or  otherwife  Point  aux  Allouettes;  and  another  on 
the  north-weft  fide,  extending  out  one-eighth  of  a  league,  and 
called  Point  of  all  Devils,""-  from  the  dangerous  nature  of  the 
place.     The  winds  from  the  fouth-fouth-eafl  ftrike  the  har- 
bor, which  are  not  to  be  feared ;  but  thofe,  however,  from  the 
Saguenay  are.     The  two  points  above  mentioned  are  dry  at 
low  tide :  our  velTel  was  unable  to  enter  the  harbor,  as  the 
wind  and  tide  were  unfavorable.     I  at  once  had  the  boat 
lowered,  in  order  to  go  to  the  port  and  alcertain  whether 
Pont  Grave  had  arrived.     While  on  the  way,  I  met  a  Ihallop 
with  the  pilot  of  Pont  Grave  and  a  Bafque,  who  came  to 
inform  me  of  what  had  happened  to  them  becaufe  they  at- 
tempted to  hinder  the  Bafque  veffels  from  trading,  according 
to  tlie  commiffion  obtained   by  Sieur  de   Monts  from  his 
Majeffy,  that  no  veffels  ihould  trade  without  permiffion  of 
Sieur  de  Monts,  as  was  expreffed  in  it;  and  that,  notwith- 
flandine  the  notifications  which  Pont  Grave  made  in  behalf 
of  his  Majefty,  they  did  not  defifi:  from  forcibly  carrying  on 

their 

292  pointe  de  tons  les  Diablcs.     Now    is  ftill  called  Pointe  aux  Alouettes,  or 
known  as    Pointe   aux   Vaches,   coivs.     Lark  Point. 
The  point  on  the  other  fide  of  the  river 


'1    I 


t  \\ 


\Ai 


\:.  If 


ii 


f 


w 


I  \\ 


ij  t' 

t  ■%' 

i 

I 


IJ 


I  I 


I 


1 


n 


i66 


Voyages  of 


their  traffic ;  and  that  they  had  ufed  their  arms  and  main- 
tained tliemfelves  fo  well  in  their  veffel  that,  difcharging 
all  their  cannon  upon  that  of  Pont  Grave,  and  letting  off 
many  nuilket-lhots,  he  was  feverely  wounded,  together  with 
three  of  ^is  men,  one  of  whom  died,  Pont  Grave  mean- 
while making  no  refinance;  for  at  the  firfl  Hiower  of  muf- 
ketry  hv.  was  ffruck  down.  Tlie  Bafques  came  on  board 
of  the  veffel  and  took  away  all  the  cannon  and  arms,  de- 
claring that  tliey  would  trade,  notwithflanding  the  prohibi- 
tion of  the  King,  and  that  when  they  were  ready  to  fet  out 
for  France  they  would  rellore  to  him  his  cannon  and  ammu- 
nition, and  tliat  they  were  keei)ing  them  in  order  to  be  in  a 
flate  of  fecurity.  Upon  hearing  all  thefe  particulars,  I  was 
greatly  annoyed  at  fuch  a  beginning,  which  we  might  have 
eafily  avoided. 

Now,  after  hearing  from  the  pilot  all  thefe  things,  I  afked 
him  why  the  Bafc|ue  had  eonie  on  board  of  our  veffel.  He 
told  me  that  he  came  in  behalf  of  their  mafler,  named 
Darache,  '^nd  his  companions,  to  obtain  affurance  from  me 
that  I  would  do  them  no  harm,  when  our  vellel  entered  the 
harbor. 

I  replied  that  I  could  not  give  any  until  I  !iad  feen  Pont 
Grave.  The  Bafque  faid  that,  if  I  had  need  of  any  thing  in 
their  power,  they  would  affift  me  accordingly.  What  led  them 
to  ufe  this  language  was  fmiply  their  recognition  of  having 
done  wrong,  as  they  confeffed,  and  the  fear  that  they  would 
not  be  permitted  to  engage  in  the  whale-filhery.  After  talk- 
ing at  length,  I  went  alhure  to  fee  Pont  Grave,  in  order  to 
deliberate  as  to  what  was  to  be  done.  I  found  him  very  ill. 
He  related  to  me  in  detail  all  that  had  happened.  We  con- 
cluded 


t  l,^ 


1^]  \i 


Siettr  de  Chainplain. 


167 


eluded  that  we  eould  only  enter  the  harbor  by  force,  and  that 
the  fettlement  muft  not  be  given  up  for  this  year,  fo  that  we 
confidercd  it  befl,  in  order  not  to  make  a  bad  caufe  out  of  a 
juft  one,  and  thus  work  our  ruin,  to  give  them  affurances 
on  my  part  lb  long  as  I  Hiould  remain  there,  and  that  Pont 
Grave  Ihould  undertake  nothing  againfl;  them,  but  that  juftice 
fliould  be  done  in  France,  and  their  differences  fliould  be 
fettled  there. 

Darache,  mafler  of  the  veiTel,  begged  me  to  go  on  board, 
where  he  gave  me  a  cordial  reception.  After  a  long  confer- 
ence, I  fecured  an  agreement  between  Pont  Grave  and  him, 
and  required  him  to  promife  that  he  would  undertake  noth- 
ing againfl  Pont  Grave,  or  what  would  be  prejudicial  to  the 
King  and  Sieur  de  IMonts;  that,  if  he  did  the  contrary,  I 
fliould  regard  my  promife  as  null  and  void.  This  was  agreed 
to,  and  figned  by  each. 

In  this  place  were  a  number  of  favages  who  had  come  for 
traffic  in  furs,  feveral  of  whom  came  to  our  veffel  with  their 
canoes,  which  are  from  eight  to  nine  paces  long,  and  about  a 
pace  or  pace  and  a  half  broad  in  the  middle,  growing  nar- 
rower towards  the  two  ends.  They  are  very  apt  to  turn 
over,  in  cafe  one  does  not  underftand  managing  them,  and 
are  made  of  bircli  bark,  ftrengthened  on  the  infide  by  little 
ribs  of  white  cedar,  very  neatly  arranged ;  they  are  fo  light 
that  a  man  can  eafily  carry  one.  Each  can  carry  a  weiglit 
equal  to  that  of  a  pipe.  When  they  want  to  go  overland  to  a 
river  where  they  have  bufmefs,  they  carry  them  with  them. 
From   Choliacoet  along  the   coail  as  far  as  the  harbor  of 

Tadouffac,  they  are  all  alike. 

^  CHAPTER   II. 


In 


u'  ,; 


•      !l 


,\ 


'1^ 


li 


i 


/     •! 


*      '« 


w  \ 


11 


t 


)! 
M 


I 


!»!, 


I''    I 


J 


1 68 


Voyages  of 


CHAPTER   II. 

Of  the  River  Saguenay,  and  the  Savaoks  who  visited  us  there. — Oi- 
THE  Island  of  Orleans,  anij  all  that  we  observed  there  worthv 
OF  Note. 

FTER  this  agreement,  I  had  fome  carpenters  fet 
to  work  to  fit  up  a  little  barque  of  twelve  or 
fourteen  tons,  for  carrying  all  that  was  needed 
for  our  fettlement,  which,  however,  could  not  be 
got  ready  before  the  laft  of  June. 
Meanwhile,  I  managed  to  vifit  fome  parts  of  the  river 
Saguenay,  a  fine  river,  which  has  the  incredible  depth  of  fome 
one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred  fathoms.""^  About  fifty 
leagues  from  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  there  is,  as  is  laid,  a 
U'reat  waterfall,  defcendino-  from  a  verv  hiu:h  elevation  with 
great  impetuofity.  There  are  Ibme  ifiands  in  this  river,  very 
barren,  being  only  rocks  covered  with  finall  firs  and  heathers. 
It  is  half  a  league  broad  in  places,  and  a  quarter  of  a  league 
at  its  mouth,  where  the  current  is  fo  ftrong  that  at  three- 
quarters  flood-tide  in  the  river  it  is  flill  running  out.  All 
the  land  that   I   have  feen  confifts  only  of  mountains  and 

rocky 


^^  The  dcepell  foundino;  as  laid 
down  on  Laurie's  Chart  is  one  Iiundrcd 
and  forty-lix  fathoms.  The  fame  au- 
thority fays  the  b.mlvs  of  the  river 
tliroughout  its  courfe  are  very  rocky, 
and  vary  in  heiijht  from  one  hundred 
and  feventy  to  three  hundred  and  forty 
yards  above  the  Ibeam.  Its  current 
is  broad,  deep,  and  uncommonly  vehe- 
ment :  in  fome  places,  where  precipices 


intervene,  are  falls  from  fifty  to  fixty 
feet  in  height,  down  which  ihe  whole 
volume  of  water  rulhes  with  tremendous 
fury  and  noife.  The  general  breadth 
of  the  river  is  about  two  and  a  half 
miles,  but  at  its  mouth  its  width  is 
contracted  to  three-quarters  of  a  mile. 
The  tide  runs  uj^ward  about  lixty-tive 
miles  from  its  mouth. 


h 


Sicttr  de  Champlain, 


169 


rocky  promontories,  for  the  mofl  part  covered  with  fir  and 
birch,  a  very  unattractive  country  on  both  fides  of  tlie  river. 
In  a  word,  it  is  mere  wafles,  uninhabited  by  either  animals 
or  birds ;  for,  going  out  hunting  in  places  which  feemed  to 
me  the  mod  pleafant,  I  found  only  fome  vciy  fmall  birds, 
fuch  as  fwallows  and  river  birds,  which  go  there  in  fummer. 
At  other  times,  there  are  none  whatever,  in  confequence  of 
the  exceffive  cold.     This  river  flows  from  the  north-weft. 

The  favages  told  me  that,  after  paffmg  the  firft  fall,  they 
meet  with  eight  others,  when  they  go  a  day's  journey  with- 
out finding  any.  Then  they  pafs  ten  others,  and  enter  a 
lake,^^^  which  they  are  three  days  in  croffing,  and  they  are 
eafily  able  to  make  ten  leagues  a  day  up  flream.  At  the  end 
of  the  lake  there  dwells  a  migratory  people.  Of  the  three 
rivers  which  flow  into  this  lake,  one  comes  from  the  north, 
very  near  the  fea,  where  they  confider  it  much  colder  than  in 
their  own  country ;  and  the  other  two  from  other  diredions 
in  the  interior,-"^  where  are  migratory  favages,  living  only 
from  hunting,  and  where  our  favages  carry  the  merchandife 
we  give  them  for  their  furs,  fuch  as  beaver,  marten,  lynx,  and 
otter,  which  are  found  there  in  large  numbers,  and  which 

they 


294  If  the  Indians  were  three  days  in 
croffing  Lake  St.  John  here  referred  to, 
whole  length  is  varioufly  Hated  to  be 
from  twenty-five  to  forty  miles,  it  could 
hardly  have  been  the  fliortell  time  in 
which  it  were  poffible  to  pafs  it.  It 
may  have  been  the  ufual  time,  fome  of 
wiiich  they  gave  to  fifliing  or  hunting. 
"  In  1647,  Father  Jean  Uuquen,  mif- 
fionary  at  TadoulTac,  afcending  the 
Saguenay,  difcovered  the  Lake  St.  John, 
and  noted  its  Indian  name,  Picouagami, 
or  Flat  Lake.     He  was  the  firlt  Euro- 


pean who  beheld  that  magnificent  ex- 
panfe  of  inland  water."  — 7  7</f  Tranf- 
aflions.  Lit.  and  His.  Soc.  of  (2i(ebc'\ 
1867-68,  p.  5. 

295  The  firrt  of  thefe  three  rivers, 
which  the  traveller  will  meet  as  he 
palTes  up  the  northern  Ihore  of  the  lake, 
is  the  Peril)onca  flowing  from  tiie  north- 
eaft.  The  fecond  is  the  Millaffina,  rep- 
refented  by  the  Indians  as  coming  from 
the  fait  fea.  Tae  third  is  the  Cho- 
mouchonan,  flowing  from  the  north- 
welt. 


t 


I 


li  r 


22 


WW 


r 


) 


\i  \ 


f 


170 


Voyages  of 


they  then  carry  to  our  veffcls.  Thcfc  people  of  tlic  nortli 
report  to  our  favagcs  that  they  fee  the  fait  fea;  and,  if  that 
is  true,  as  I  think  it  certainly  is,  it  can  be  nothing  but  a 
gulf  entering  the  interior  on  the  north.-"'"  The  fax-ages  fay 
that  the  diflance  from  the  north  fea  to  the  port  of  Tadouffac 
is  perhaps  forty-five  or  fifty  days'  journey,  in  confequence  of 
the  difficulties  prefented  by  the  roads,  rivers,  and  country, 
which  is  very  mountainous,  and  where  there  is  fnow  for  the 
molf  j)art  of  the  year,  T^">is  is  what  I  have  definitely  afcer- 
tained  in  regard  to  this  river.  I  have  often  wiflied  to  exi^lore 
it,  but  could  not  do  fo  without  the  favages,  who  were  unwill- 
ing that  I  or  any  of  our  party  fliould  accompany  them. 
Neverthclefs,  they  have  promifed  that  I  fliall  do  fo.  This 
exploration  would  be  dehrable,  in  order  to  remove  the  doubts 
of  many  pertbns  in  regard  to  the  exiftence  of  this  fea  on  the 

north, 

Chami'lain's   Exi^lanation  or  the  accompanying   Map. 

PdRT    DP.  TaDOICAC. 

The  fii^ures  indicate  the  fathoms  of  water- 

A.  A  round  mountain  or.  tlie  bank  of  the  river  Saguenay.  />'.  The  harbor  of 
TadouiTac.  C.  A  fmall  frc(h-\vater  brook.  D.  The  encampment  of  the  favages 
wlien  they  come  to  traffic.  E.  A  peninfula  partly  enclofing  the  port  of  the  river 
.Saguenay.  /".  Point  of  All  Devils.  G.  The  river  Saguenay.  //.  I'oint  aux 
Aluuetles.  /.  \'ery  rough  mountains  covered  with  firs  and  beecliL's.  /,.  The 
mill  Bode.  ^T.  The  roadllead  where  velTels  anchor  while  waiting  for  wind  and 
tide.  N.  A  little  pond  near  tlie  harbor.  O.  A  fmall  brook  coming  from  the 
pond  and  flowing  into  the  .'-aguenay.  /'.  Place  without  trees  near  the  pouit 
where  there  i^  a  quantity  of  grafs. 


2*"  Tliere   was   douhtlefs    an    Indian     to   Rupert   River,  which  flows  into  the 
trail  from  the  head-waters  of  the  Alillaf-     lower  part  of  fludfon's  liay. 
fina  to  Millaffin  Lake,  and  from  thence 


\      \ 


1; 


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it 


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J, 


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Sicicr  de  Chaviplain. 


171 


north,  wlicrc  it  is  maintained  that  the  F.njjjlifli  have  gone  in 
tliefe  latter  years  to  find  a  way  to  Ciuna.-"^ 

I  fet  out  from  TadoulTac  the  lalt  day  of  the  month  to  c;" 
to  Quebec.'-""  We  palled  near  an  illand  called  Hare  Illandr'" 
dillant  fix  leagues  from  the  above-named  port:  it  is  two 
leairues  from  the  northern,  and  nearly  four  leagues  from  the 
fouthern  fhore.  From  Hare  Illand  we  proceeded  to  a  little 
river,  dry  at  low  tide,  up  which  fome  {^\^\\  hundred  or  eight 
hundred  paces  there  are  two  falls.  We  named  it  Salmon 
River,"""  fince  we  caught  fome  of  thele  filh  in  it.  Coafting 
along  the  north  Ihore,  we  came  to  a  i^oint  extending  into  the 
river?  which  we  called  Cap  Dauphin,'""  dillant  three  leagues 
from  Salmon  River.     Thence  we  proceeded  to  another,  which 

we 


^OT  Tlie  fait  fea  referred  to  by  the 
Indians  was  undoubtedly  Hudfim's  Hay. 
The  (lifcoverer  of  this  bay.  Henry  Mud- 
fon,  in  tiie  years  1607,  1608.  and  1609, 
was  in  the  northern  ocean  fcarchinj;  for 
a  pallaj^e  to  Cathay.  In  16 10,  he  dif- 
covered  the  ftrait  and  bay  which  now 
bear  his  name.  He  paifed  the  winter 
in  the  fouthern  part  of  the  bay  ;  and  the 
next  year,  161 1.  his  failors  in  a  mutiny 
forced  him  and  his  officers  into  a  llialiop 
and  abandoned  them  to  perilh.  Noth- 
ini;  was  heard  of  them  afterward. 
Tlie  fame  of  Hudfon's  difcovery  had 
reached  Champhiin  before  the  piib'i- 
cation  of  this  volume  in  1613.  This 
will  be  apiiarent  by  comparing  Cham- 
plain's  fmall  map  with  the  Tahula 
Nautica  of  Hudfon,  publilhed  in  1612. 
It  will  be  feen  that  the  whole  of  the 
Carte  Geographique  de  la  Nouvelle 
France  of  Champlain,  on  the  well 
of  Lumloy's  Inlet,  including  lludlon's 
Strait  and  Bay,  is  a  copy  from  the 
Tabula  Nautica.    Even  the  names  are  in 


Englidi,  a  few  charafterifbc  ones  being 
omitted,  fuch  as  Trince  Henry,  the 
King's  Foriant.  and  Cape  Charles.— 
Vide  Henry  Hudfon  the  Xavhj^ator,  by 
G.  IM.  Alher,  LL.D.,  ILakluyt  Society, 
lS5o,  p.  xiiv. 

'■''"*  This  was  June  30,  160S. 

'-'^«  Ijle  aiix  Lievrcs,  or  hares.  This 
name  was  given  by  Jacques  Cartier, 
and  it  is  fbir called  Hare  Illand.  It  is 
about  ten  geograpliical  miles  long,  and 
generally  al)Out  half  or  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  wide. 

80'^  Kivihe  aux  SiUtlnions.  "  From 
all  appearances,"  fays  Lavenlicre,  "  this 
.Salmon  River  is  Jlhat  which  empties 
into  the  '  Port  a  I'Eciuilles,"  eel  liarhnr, 
alfo  called  '  Port  aux  (^uilles,'  Skittles 
Port.  Its  moutli  is  two  leagues  from 
Cape  S.ilmon.  with  which  it  must  not 
be  confounded."  It  is  now  known  as 
Black  River. 

a"  Cap  Dauphin,  now  called  Cape 
Salmon,  which  is  about  three  leagues 
from  Black  River. 


ill 

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172 


Voyages  of 


we  named  Eagle  Cape,^''^  diflant  ■  'jht  leagues  from  Cap 
Dauphin.  Between  the  two  there  is  a  large  bay,'""*''  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  which  is  a  little  river  dry  at  low  tide.  From  Eagle 
Cape  we  proceeded  to  Ifle  aux  Coudres,'*'  a  good  league  dif- 
tant,  which  is  about  a  league  and  a  half  long.  It  is  nearly 
level,  and  grows  narrower  towards  tlie  two  ends.  On  the 
weflern  end  there  are  meadov/s,  and  locky  points  extending 
fome  diflance  out  into  the  river.  On  the  fouth-weft  fide  it 
is  very  reefy,  yet  very  pleafant  in  confequence  of  the  woods 
furrounding  it.  It  is  diflant  about  half  a  league  from  the 
northern  fhore,  where  is  a  little  river  extending  fome  diffance 
into  the  interior.  We  named  it  Riviere  du  Gouffre,'"^'"'  fince 
abreaft  of  it  the  tide  runs  with  extraordinary  rapidity ;  and, 
although  it  has  a  calm  appearance,  it  is  always  much  agi- 
tated, the  dc})th  there  being  great :  but  the  river  itfelf  is 
fhallow,  and  there  are  many  rocks  at  and  about  its  mouth. 
Cuarting  along  from  Ifle  aux  Coudres,  we  reached  a  cape 
which  we  named  Cap  dc  Tonrmente,^"*^  five  leagues  diftant; 

and 


8°''-  Cap  u  V Ai^le,  now  known  as 
Cap  aux  Oies,  or  Goofe  Cape.  The 
Eaj^le  Cape  of  to-day  is  little  more  than 
two  leajjues  from  Cape  Salmon,  while 
Cioofe  Cape  is  about  eight  leagues,  as 
ftatecl  in  the  text. 

803  The  bay  ilretching  between  Cape 
Salmon  and  Coofe  Cape  is  called  Mai 
Bay,  within  which  are  Cape  I'^agle, 
Murray  B-y,  Point  au  Pies,  White 
Cape,  Red  Cape.  Black  Cape,  Point 
PSre,  Point  Corneille,  and  Little  Mai 
Bay.  In  the  rear  of  Goofe  Cape  are 
Les  Eboulemens  Mountains,  2.547  feet 
in  height.  On  the  oppofite  fide  of  the 
river  is  Point  Quelle,  and  the  river  of 
the  fame  name. 


80'  IJle  ai<x  Coudres,  Hazel  Ifland, 
fo  named  by  Jacques  Cartier,  Hill  re- 
tains its  ancient  appellation.  Its  dif- 
tance  from  Goofe  Cape  is  about  two 
leagues.  The  defcription  of  it  in  the 
text  is  very  accurate. 

805  /iV-z/Vvv,'  du  Gouffrc.  This  river 
fiill  retains  this  name,  fignifying  whirl- 
pool, and  is  the  fame  that  empties 
into  St.  Paul's  Bay,  oppofite  Ille  aux 
Coudres. 

808  Cap  de  Tourmente,  cape  of  the 
temped,  is  eight  leagues  from  Ifle  aux 
Coudres.  l)ut  about  two  from  the  lile  of 
Orleans,  as  Hated  in  the  text,  which 
fufficiently  identifies  it. 


A^A, 


Siettr  de  Champlain, 


^n 


and  we  save  it  this  name  becaufe,  however  httle  wind  there 
may  be,  the  water  rifes  there  as  if  it  were  full  tide.  At  this 
point,  the  water  begins  to  be  frefli.  Thence  we  proceeded  to 
the  Ifland  of  Orleans,^*^^  a  diftance  of  two  leagues,  on  the 
fouth  fide  of  which  are  numerous  iflands,  low,  covered  with 
trees  and  very  pleafant,  with  large  meadows,  having  plenty 
of  game,  fome  being,  fo  far  as  I  could  judge,  two  leagues  in 
length,  others  a  trifle  more  or  lefs.  About  thefe  iflands  are 
many  rocks,  alio  very  dangerous  fliallows,  fome  two  leagues 
difl:ant  from  the  main  land  on  the  fouth.  All  this  fliore,  both 
north  and  fouth,  from  Tadouffac  to  the  Ifland  of  Orleans,  is 
mountainous,  and  the  foil  very  poor.  The  wood  is  pine,  fir, 
and  birch  only,  with  very  ugly  rocks,  fo  that  in  moft  places 
one  could  not  make  his  way. 

Now  we  pafled  along  fouth  of  the  Ifland  of  Orleans,  which 
is  a  league  and  a  half  diftant  from  the  main  land  and  half  a 
league  on  the  north  flde,  being  fix  leagues  in  length,  and  one 
in  breadth,  or  in  fome  places  a  league  and  a  half.  On  the 
north  fide,  it  is  very  pleafant,  on  account  of  the  great  extent 
of  woods  and  meadows  there ;  but  it  is  very  dangerous  failing, 
in  confequence  of  the  numerous  points  and  rocks  between 
the  main  land  and  ifland,  on  which  are  numerous  fine  oaks 

and 


SOT  IJleitOrUans.  Cartierdifcovered 
this  idand  in  1,635,  ''^"<^1  named  it  the 
I  Hand  of  Bacchus,  hecaufe  he  law  vines 
growin<i  there,  which  he  had  not  before 
feen  in  that  rej,non.  He  fays.  "  Et  par- 
eillement  y  trouuafmes  force  vijjnes,  ce 
(jne  n'auyons  veu  par  cy  deiiant  h  toute 
la  terre,  &  par  ce  la  nommafmes  ryde 
de  Hacchus."  —  Brief  Recit  de  la  Navi- 
i^ration  Faitc  en  mdxxxv.,  par  Jacques 
Cartier,  U'Avezac  ed.,  Paris,  1S63,  pp. 
14,   15.     The  grape  found   here  was 


probably  the  Froft  Grape,  Vitis  cordi- 
folia.  The  "  Illand  of  Orleans  "  foon 
"became  the  fixed  name  of  this  ifland, 
which  it  ftill  retains.  Its  Indian  name 
is  faid  to  have  been  Minii^o.— Vide 
Laverdi^rr  s  interefting  note,  (Euvres 
dc  Cham  plain,  Tome  II.  p.  24.  Cham- 
plain's  ellimate  of  the  fize  of  tlie  ifland 
is  nearlv  accurate.  It  is.  according-  to 
the  Adrniralty  charts,  feventeen  marine 
miles  in  length,  and  four  in  its  greateft 
width. 


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174 


Voyages  of 


and  in  fomc  places  nut-trees,  and  on  the  borders  of  tlic  woods 
vines  and  other  trees  llich  as  we  have  in  France.  Tliis  place 
is  the  commencement  of  the  fine  and  fertile  country  of  the 
great  river,  and  is  diliant  one  hundred  and  twenty  leagues 
from  its  mouth.  Off  the  end  of  the  illand  is  a  torrent  of 
water  on  the  north  fliore,  proceeding  from  a  lake  ten  leagues 
in  the  interior :  ^'"^  it  comes  down  from  a  height  of  nearly 
twenty-five  fathoms,  above  which  the  land  is  level  and  pleal- 
ant,  although  farther  inland  are  feen  high  mountains  appear- 
ing to  be  from  fifteen  to  twenty  leagues  diflant. 


CHAPTER   III. 

Arrival  at  Quebec,  where  wk  coxstkucted  our  Place  of  Abode  ;  its 
Situation.  —  Conspiracy  against  the  Service  of  the  King  and  my 
Life  by  some  of  our  Men.  —  Punishment  of  them,  and  all  that 
transpired  in  the  Affair. 


ROM  the  Ifland  of  Orleans  to  Quebec  the  dif- 
tance  is  a  league.  I  arrived  there  on  the  3d  of 
July,  when  I  fearched  for  a  place  fuitable  for 
our  fettlement,  but  I  could  find  none  more 
convenient  or  better  fituated  than  the  point  of 

Quebec, 


8'^*'  This  was  the  river  Montmorency, 
wliich  rifcs  in  Snow  Lake,  fome  fifty 
miles  in  the  interior.  —  \  liie  Champl.iin's 
reference  on  Iiis  map  of  Quebec  and 
its  environs.  He  gave  this  name  to  tiie 
river,  ^vliich  it  Itill  retains,  in  honor  of 
the  /^''miral  Montmorency,  to  whom  he 
dedicated  his  notes  on  the  voy.ige  of 
1603.  —  /7(/t,-  I.a-i'eydicn\  in  locc;  alio 
C .  iinplain,  ed.  1632  ;  Charlevoix^s  Let- 


ters, London,  1763,  p.  19.  The  follow- 
ing is  Jean  Alfonfe's  defcription  of  the 
fall  of  Montmorency  :  "  When  thou  art 
come  to  the  end  of  the  I  fie,  thou  ihalt 
fee  a  great  River,  n'hich  falleth  fifteene 
or  twenty  fathoms  downe  from  a  rocke, 
and  maketh  a  terrible  noyfe."— //(?/'///i/. 
Vol.  III.  p.  2i;3.  The  perpendicular 
delcent  of  the  ^Iontmorency  at  tlie  falls 
is  240  feet. 


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Sietcr  de  Champlain. 


175 


Quebec,  fo  called  by  the  favages;*^  which  was  covered  with 
nut-trees.     I  at  once  employed  a  portion  of  our  workmen  m 


cutting 


Champlain's  Explanation  of  the  accompanying  Map. 

QuEnEC 
The  figwei  indicate  the  fathoms  jf  water. 

A    The  ^M^  where  our  habitation  is  built.^      B.  Cleared  land  where  we  few 
wheat  and  other  grain;^    C.  The  gardens.^   D.  Small  brook  coming  from  marfhe. 
E    River  where  Jacques  Cartier  palled  the  winter,  which  m  h,s  tmie  he  called 
St.    Croix,   and  which    name  has    been   transferred  to    a   place   fitteen   leagues 
above  Quebec.^     F.    River    of   the   marlhes.«     G.  Place  where  was   collected 
t  gra?s  for  the  animals  In-ought  here.^     //.  The  grand  fall  of_  Montmorency 
whid.  defcends  from  a  height  of  more  than  twenty-five  fathoms  mto  the  r,ver 
/.   The  end  of  the  Ifland  of  Orleans.     L.  A  very  narrow  pou.t  on  the  (hore  e^.! 
of  Quebec  »     M.  Roaring  river  winch  extends  to  the  Etechemms.    A  .  The  great 
river   of  St.    Lawrence.  "  O.   Lak.    in    the   roaring  river.     P.  Mountams   m  the 
nteior;  bay  which    I    named   New  Bifcay.     ,.   Lake  of  the  great  fall  of  Mont- 
morency'-  'r.  Bearr>rook."     .S.  Brook  du  Gendre.-^     T.  Meadows  overflowed 
Tt  ev  ry  tide.     V.   Mont  du    Gas,   very  high,  fuuated  on  the  bank  of  the  r.ver- 
^   Swift  .rook,  adapted  to  all  kinds  of  mills.     Y.  Gravelly  fl^ore  where  a  quant, ty 
oi  dilonds  are  fom.d  fomewhat  better  than  thofe  of  Alanfon.     Z    I  he  Pou.t  of 
Diamonds.     9.  Places  where  the  favages  often  build  their  cabins. 

NOTFS      The   following   notes   on    Champlain's   f'^P^^^"''^!'^"   "^   '!;%";;i;,,'J 
Quebec  are  by  the  Abb^  Laverdiere,  whofe  accurate  knowledge  of  that  city  ami 


w  Champlain  here  plainly  means  to 
fay  that  the  Indians  call  the  narrow 
place  in  the  river  Quehec.  \ox  this 
meaning  of  the  word,  viz.  narrowing 
of  waters,  in  the  Algonquin  language, 
the  I'lthority  is  abundant.  Laverdiere 
quotes,  as  agreeing  with  him  m  this 
view,  Bellenger,  F erland,  and  Leicarbot. 
"The  narrowing  of  the  river,  fays 
Charlevoix,  -'gave  it  the  name  of  One- 
heio  or  Qiubcc.  which  in  the  Ai^onqinn 
lan'aiage  fignifies  coiitnulion.  1  lie 
Abcnaquis,  whofe  language  is  a  dialect 
of    the    Algonquin,    call    it    Quelibec, 


which  fignifies  fomething  tliut  up.  — 
Cliarlcvoi:^ s  Letters,  pp.  18.  19.  Alfred 
Hawkins,  in  his  "  Hillorical  Recollec- 
tions of  Oueliec,"  regards  the  word  ot 
Norman  origin,  which  he  finds  on  a 
feal  of  the  liuke  of  Suffolk,  as  early  as 
14-^0  The  theory  is  ingenious:  but  it 
requires  fome  other  characferilfic  hif- 
toricn'  facls  to  challenge  our  belief. 
When  earlier  vilited  Uuebec,  it  was 
called  by  the  natives  Stndacone.  — ./'W 
Cartiefs  Brief  Keeit,  I54S'  D'Avezac 
ed.,  Pari.s,  1S63,  p.  I4- 


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176 


Voyages  of 


cutting  tlicm  clown,  that  wc  might  conflru(5l  our  habitation 
there :  one  I  let  to  lliwing  boards,  another  to  making  a  cellar 
and  digging  ditclies,  another  I  fent  to  TadoulTac  with  the 
bar([ue  to  get  fupplies.  The  firfl  thing  we  made  was  the 
ftorehoufe  for  keeping  under  cover  our  rup|)lies,  wiiich  was 
promptly  accomplilhed  through  the  zeal  of  all,  and  my  atten- 
tion to  the  work. 

Some  days  after  my  arrival  nt  Quebec,  a  locklhuth  con- 
rpired  againll  the  fervice  of  the  king.     Mis  plan  was  to  put 

me 

its  environs  renders  them  elpeci.illy  vnlualile.  They  arc  ijiven  entire,  with  only 
ni,i;lit  ni()(liticatii)ns.  '  'Iliat  is  properly  the  point  of  (  Uiehec.  incliulin;,^  what  is  at 
prelent  enclofed  liy  La  I'lac  e.  the  llreet  Notre  Dame,  and  the  river.  -'  This  tlrll 
clearing,'  mull  have  been  what  was  called  later  the  Kfplanade  du  Fort,  or  (Irande 
i'l.ice.  or  perii.ips  both.  The  (irande  I'laee  bcc.ime.  in  165.S.  the  fort  of  the 
Ihirons;  it  was  the  fpace  included  lietween  the  Cote  of  the  lower  town  and  the 
Kile  du  Fort.  ^  \  little  above  the  <,Mrdens,  on  the  Hope  of  the  Cote  du  Saut  au 
•Matelot.  a  crofs  is  Teen,  which  teems  to  indicate  that  at  that  time  the  cemetery 
was  where  it  is  laid  to  be  when  it  is  mentioned  Ibmc  years  later  for  the  firll  time. 
'  Accordinji:  to  the  old  plans  of  (Quebec,  thel'e  marlhes  were  reprefented  to  be 
well  of  Mont  Carmel.  and  at  the  foot  of  the  glacis  of  the  Citadel.  The  brook 
pilled  eatlward  of  the  grounds  of  the  Uri'ulines  and  Jel'uites,  followed  for  fotne 
I'iil.ince  the  Rue  de  la  FaJjricpie  as  far  as  the  enclofure  of  the  Hotel  Dieu,  to 
the  eall  of  which  it  ran  down  the  hill  towards  the  foot  of  the  C'ote  de  la  Cano- 
teiie.  ^  The  river  St.  Cliarles.  The  letter  F  does  not  indicate  ])recifely  the  jjlace 
wliere  Jacques  (luartier  wintered,  but  only  the  mouth  of  the  river.  "  Ju(iu;in<j 
tVoni  the  outlines  of  the  Ihore,  this  brook,  which  came  t'rom  the  louth-well,  flowecl 
into  the  harbor  of  the  Palais,  towards  the  wellern  extremity  of  the  I'.irc.  '  Tiiis 
is  probably  what  wa.s  called  later  the  barn  of  the  Meffieurs  de  la  Compajjnie,  or 
rim|jly  La  (irani^e,  and  appears  to  iiave  been  fomewhere  on  the  avenue  of  Mont 
Carmel.  ^  The  fall  of  .Montmorency  is  forty  f.Uhoms  or  two  hundred  and  forty 
French  feet,  or  even  more.  '■'  Hence  it  is  feen  that  in  1613  this  point  had  as  yet 
no  name.  In  \(^z<).  Champlain  calls  it  Cap  de  Ldvis  :  it  can  accordinj^dy  be  con- 
cluded that  this  point  derives  its  name  from  that  of  the  Due  de  Ventadour,  Henri 
de  Levis,  and  tliat  it  must  have  been  lo  named  between  the  years  1625  antl  !()27, 
the  time  when  he  was  rej^ent.  "'  The  Lake  of  the  Snows  is  the  fource  of  the 
wellern  branch  of  the  Riviere  du  Saut.  '^  La  Riviere  de  IJeauport,  whicii  is  called 
likewife  La  Dilbllerie.  ^'-  Called  later  Kuilleau  de  laCabaneaux  T.iuiiiers,  Riviere 
Chalifour.  and  finally  Riviere  des  Fous.  from  the  new  infane  afylum,  by  the  lite  of 
which  it  now  palfes.  ••'  Hei<^ht  where  is  now  lituated  the  ballion  of  the  Roi  i\  la 
Citadelle.  Tliis  name  was  jiiven  it,  doubt'efs  in  memory  of  .^L  de  .Monts.  Pierre 
du  (iuall.  '••  Tliis  tiirure  appears  not  oni.-at  the  Point  du  Cap  I.Mamant,  but 
alfo  alon<j  the  (hore  of  Beaupcjrt,  and  at  the  end  of  the  Ifland  of  Orleans. 


^  I     li      >' 


Sieur  de  Chaviplain, 


^11 


mc  to  dcatli,  and,  getting  poffcrfion  of  our  fort,  to  put  it  into 
the  hands  of  the  Halquus  or  Si)aniards,  thtMi  at  Tadouffac, 
boyond  which  vcfrds  cannot  go,  from  not  havinc:  a  knowledire 


)f  th 


of  the  bank^ 


th( 


route,  r 

In  order  to  execute  his  wretched  plan,  by  which  he  hoped 
to  make  his  fortune,  he  fuborned  four  of  the  worfl  characters, 
as  he  fuiipofed,  telling  them  a  thoufand  falfehoods,  and  jjrc- 
fenting  to  them   pr()ri)ecls  of  accjuiring  riches. 

Thefe  four  men,  having  been  won  over,  all  proniifed  to  acfl 
in  fuch  a  manner  as  to  gain  the  reft  over  to  their  fide;  fo 
that,  for  the  time  being,  I  had  no  one  with  me  in  whom  I  could 
put  confidence,  which  gave  them  flill  more  hope  of  making 
their  plan  lucceed :  for  four  or  fi\e  of  my  companions,  in 
wh(jm  they  knew  that  I  put  confidence,  were  on  board  of 
the  barques,  for  the  purpofe  of  proted;ing  the  provifions  and 
fujiplies  neceffary  for  our  fettlement. 

In  a  w^ord,  they  were  fo  fkilful  in  carrying  out  their 
intrigues  with  thofe  who  remained,  that  they  were  on  the 
point  of  gaining  all  over  to  their  caufe,  even  my  lackey,  prom- 
ifing  them  many  things  which  they  could  not  have  fulfilled. 

Being  now  all  agreed,  they  made  daily  different  plans  as  to 
how  they  fliould  put  me  to  death,  fo  as  not  to  be  accufed  of 
it,  which  they  found  to  be  a  difficult  thing.  But  the  devil, 
blindfolding  them  all  and  taking  away  their  reafon  and  every 
poffible  difficulty,  they  determined  to  take  me  while  unarmed, 
and  flrangle  me ;  or  to  give  a  falfe  alarm  at  night,  and  fhoot 
me  as  I  went  out,  in  which  manner  they  judged  that  they 
would  accomi)lifli  their  work  fooner  than  otherwife.  They 
made  a  mutual  promife  not  to  betray  each  other,  on  penalty 
that  the  firft  one  who  opened  his  mouth  fhould  be  poniarded. 

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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y    14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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Voyages  of 


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They  were  to  execute  their  plan  in  four  days,  before  the 
arrival  of  our  barques,  otherwife  they  would  have  been  unable 
to  carry  out  their  I'cheme. 

On  this  very  day,  one  of  our  barques  arrived,  with  our 
pilot,  Captain  Teflu,  a  very  difcreet  man.  After  the  barque 
was  unloaded,  and  ready  to  return  to  TadoulTac,  there  came 
to  him  a  lockfmith,  named  Natel,  an  affociate  of  Jean  du  Val, 
the  head  of  the  confpiracy,  who  told  him  that  he  had  ))rom- 
ifed  the  rert  to  do  juft  as  they  did  ;  but  that  lie  did  not  in 
fad  defire  the  execution  of  the  plot,  yet  did  not  dare  to  make 
a  difclofure  in  regard  to  it,  from  fear  of  being  poniarded. 

Antoine  Natel  made  the  pilot  promife  that  he  would  make 
no  difclofure  in  regard  to  what  he  Ihould  fay,  fince,  if  his 
companions  fliould  dilcover  it,  they  would  put  him  to  death. 
The  pilot  gave  him  his  affurance  in  all  particulars,  and  afked 
him  to  ftate  the  character  of  the  plot  which  they  willed  to 
carry  out.  This  Natel  did  at  length,  when  the  pilot  faid  to 
him  :  "  My  friend,  you  have  done  well  to  difclofe  fuch  a  ma- 
licious delign,  and  you  fliow  that  you  are  an  upright  man,  and 
under  the  guidance  of  the  Holy  Spirit.  But  thefe  things 
cannot  be  paffed  by  without  bringing  them  to  the  knowledge 
of  Sieur  de  Champlain,  that  he  may  make  provifion  againfl 
them ;  and  I  promife  you  that  I  will  prevail  upon  him  to 
pardon  you  and  the  reft.  And  I  will  at  once,"  laid  the  pilot, 
"go  to  him  without  exciting  any  fufpicion  ;  and  do  you  go 
about  your  bufinefs,  lillening  to  all  they  may  fay,  and  not 
troubling  yourfelf  about  the  refl:." 

The  pilot  came  at  once  to  me,  in  a  garden  which  I  was 
having  prepared,  and  faid  that  he  vvifhed  to  fpeak  to  me  in  a 
private  place,  where  we  could  be  alone.     I  readily  alVented, 

and 


'KK 


Sietir  cie  Chaviplain.  179 

and  we  went  into  tlie  wood,  where  he  related  to  me  the  whole 
affair.      I  asked  who  had  told  it  to  him.     He  begged  me  to 
pardon  him  who  had  made  the  difclofure,  which  I  confented 
to  do,  although  he  ought  to  hnve  addrelTed  himfelf  to  me. 
Me  was  afraid,  he  replied,  that  you  would  become  angry,  and 
harm  hnii.     I   told  him  that   I   was  able  to  govern   mylelf 
better  than  that,  in  fuch  a  matter ;  and  defired  him  to  have 
the  man  come  to  me,  that  I  might  hear  his  ftatement.     He 
went,  and  brought  him  all  trembling  with  fear  left   I  Ihould 
do  him  fome  harm.     I  realTured  him,  telling  him  not  to  be 
afraid ;   that  he  was  in  a  place  of   fafety,  and  that  1  ihould 
pardon  him  for  all  that  he  had  done,  together  with  the  others, 
provided  he  would  tell  me  in  full  the  truth  in  regard  to  the 
whole  matter,  and  the  motive  which  had  impelled  them  to  it. 
"  Nothing,"  he  faid,  "  had  impelled  them,  except  that  they 
had  imagined  that,  by  giving  up  the  place  into  the  hands  o 
the   Bafques  or  Spaniards,  they  might  all  become  rich,  and 
that  they  did  not  want  to  go  back  to  France."     He  alio 
related  to  me  the  remaining  particulars  in  regard  to  then- 

confpiracy.  o    i  i  •     ^ 

After  having  heard  and  queflioned  hmi,  I  dn-eded  hmi  to 
CO  about  his  work.  Meanwhile,  I  ordered  the  pilot  to  brmg 
Sp  his  fhallop,  which  he  did.  Then  I  gave  two  bottle^  of 
Jne  to  a  young  man,  direcling  him  to  fay  to  theie  four 
worthies,  the  leaders  of  the  confpiracy,  that  it  was  a  prefent 
of  wine,  which  his  friends  at  Tadouffac  had  given  him  and 
that  he  wifhed  to  fliare  it  with  them.  This  they  did  not 
decline,  and  at  evening  were  on  board  the  barque  where  he 
was  to  give  them  the  entertainment.  I  loft  no  time  in  going 
there  Ihortly  afcer;  and  caufed  them  to  be  feized,  and^he^d 
until  the  next  day. 


\  i 


i 


i8o 


Voyages  of 


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If 


i  i  ; 


i 


Tlien  were  my  worthies  afloniflicd  indeed.  I  at  once  had 
all  get  up,  for  it  was  about  ten  o'cloci  in  the  evening,  and 
pardoned  them  all,  on  condition  that  they  would  difelofe  to 
me  the  truth  in  regard  to  all  that  had  occurred ;  which  they 
did,  when  I  had  them  retire. 

The  next  day  I  took  the  depofitions  of  all,  one  after  the 
other,  in  the  pre  fence  of  the  pilot  and  lailors  of  the  velTel, 
which  I  had  put  down  in  writing;  and  they  were  well  pleafed, 
as  they  laid,  fince  they  had  lived  only  in  fear  of  each  other, 
efpecially  of  the  four  knaves  who  had  enfnared  them.  But 
now  they  lived  in  peace,  latisfied,  as  they  declared,  with  the 
treatment  which  they  had  received. 

The  fame  day  I  had  fix  pairs  of  handcuffs  made  for  the 
authors  of  the  confpiracy:  one  for  our  fuigeon,  named  Bon- 
nerme,  one  for  another,  named  La  Taille,  whom  the  four 
confpirators  had  accufed,  which,  however,  proved  falfe,  and 
conlequently  they  were  given  their  liberty. 

This  being  done,  I  took  my  worthies  to  Tadouffac,  beg- 
ging Pont  Grave  to  do  me  the  favor  of  guarding  them, 
fince  I  had  as  yet  no  fecure  place  for  keeping  them,  and  as 
we  were  occupied  in  conffrucling  our  places  of  abode.  An- 
other objecfl  was  to  confult  with  him,  and  others  on  the  fhip, 
as  to  what  fliould  be  done  in  the  premifes.  We  fuggefled 
that,  after  he  had  finiflied  his  work  at  TadoufTac,  he  Ihould 
come  to  Quebec  with  the  prifoners,  where  we  fliould  have 
them  confronted  with  their  witnelfes,  and,  after  giving  them 
a  hearing,  order  jullice  to  be  done  according  to  the  offence 
which  they  had  committed. 

I  went  back  the  next  day  to  Quebec,  to  haflen  the  com- 
pletion of   our  florehoufe,  fo   as  to   fecure   our   provifions, 

which 


Siettr  de  Chaviplain. 


i8i 


whicli  had  been  mifufod  by  all  thofe  fcoundrels,  who  fparcd 
nothing,  without  rcilcding  how  they  could  find  more  when 
thele  failed ;  for  I  could  not  obviate  the  difficulty  until  the 
florehoufe  Ihould  be  completed  and  fhut  up. 

Pont  Grave  arrived  fome  time  after  me,  with  the  prifoners, 
which  caufed  uneafiness  to  the  workmen  who  remained,  fince 
they  feared  that  I  Ihould  pardon  them,  and  that  they  w(juld 
avenge  themielves   upon   them  for  revealing   their  wicked 

defign. 

We  had  them  brought  face  to  face,  and  they  affirmed 
before  them  all  which  they  had  fiated  in  their  depofitions,  the 
prifoners  not  denying  it,  but  admitting  that  they  had  acled 
in  a  wicked  manner,  and  fhould  be  punifhed,  unlefs  mercy 
might  be  exerciled  towards  them ;  accurfing,  above  all,  Jean 
du^Val,  who  had  been  trying  to  lead  them  into  llich  a  con- 
fpiracy  from  the  time  of  their  departure  from  France.  Du 
Val  knew  not  what  to  fay,  except  that  he  deferved  death, 
that  all  ftated  in  the  depofitions  was  true,  and  that  he  begged 
for  mercy  upon  himfelf  and  the  others,  who  had  given  in 
their  adherence  to  his  pernicious  purpoles. 

After  Pont  Grave  and  I,  the  captai.i  of  the  veffel,  furgeon, 
mate,  fecond  mate,  and  other  failors,  had  heard  their  depofi- 
tions and  face  to  face  fiatements,  we  adjudged  that  it  would 
be  enough  to  put  to  death  Du  Val,  as  the  infiigator  of  the 
confpiracy ;  and  that  he  might  lerve  as  an  example  to  thofe 
who  remained,  leading  them  to  deport  themfelves  corredly 
in  future,  in  the  difcharge  of  their  duty;  and  that  the  Span- 
iards and  Bafciues,  of  whom  there  were  large  numbers  m  the 
country,  might  not  glory  in  the  event.  We  adjudged  that 
the  three  others  be  condemned  to  be  hung,  but  that  they 

fliould 


^il 


('? 


^Ii 


182 


Voyages  of 


fliould  be  taken  to  France  and  put  into  the  hands  of  Sicur 
dc  Monts,  tliat  llich  ami)le  jullice  niiglit  be  done  them  as  he 
fliould  recommend;  that  they  Ihould  be  fent  with  all  the  evi- 
dence and  their  fentence,  as  well  as  that  of  Jean  du  Val, 
who  was  llrangled  and  hung  at  Quebec,  and  his  head  was 
put  on  the  end  of  a  pike,  to  be  fet  up  in  the  mod  confpicuous 
place  on  our  fort. 


!'  \ 


I 


\\ 


\\ 


]   *    ft 


CHAPTER   IV. 

Return  op  Pont  Grave  to  Franci:.  —  Df.scription  ok  our  Quarters 
AND  THE  Place  whi:ke  Jaiijiks  Cartikr  staved  in    1535. 

FTER  all  thefe  occurrences,  Pont  Grave  fet  out 
from  Quebec,  on  the  i8th  of  September,  to  re- 
turn to  France  with  the  three  prifoners.  After 
he  had  gone,  all  who  remained  condudled  them- 
felves  correctly  in  the  difcharge  of  their  duty. 
I  had  the  work  on  our  quarters  continued,  which  was 
compofed  of  three  buildings  of  two  flories.  Each  one  was 
three  fathoms  loncif,  and  two  and  a  half  wide.  The  flore- 
houfe  was  fix  fathoms  long  and  three  wide,  with  a  fine  cellar 
fix  feet  dee]).  I  had  a  gallery  made  all  around  our  buildings, 
on  the  outfide,  at  the  fecond  ftory,  which  proved  very  con- 
venient. There  were  alfo  ditches,  fifteen  feet  wide  and  fix 
deep.  On  the  outer  fide  of  the  ditches,  I  confiructed  feveral 
Ipurs,  which  enclofed  a  part  of  the  dwelling,  at  the  jioints 
where  we  placed  our  cannon.  Before  the  habitation  there  is 
a  place  four  fathoms  wide  and  fix  or  feven  long,  looking  out 
upon  the  river  bank.  Surrounding  the  habitation  are  very 
good  gardens,  and  a  place  on  the  north  fide  fome  hundred  or 

hundred 


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Sicur  dc  Chaviplain, 


I  ^^3 


hundred  and  twcMity  paces  long  and  fifty  or  fixty  wide.  More- 
over, near  Quebec,  tliere  is  a  little  river,  coming  from  a  lake 
in  the  interior,'""  dillant  fix  or  feven  leagues  from  our  fettle- 
ment.  I  am  of  opinion  that  this  river,  which  is  north  a  quarter 
north-well  from  our  llttlement,  is  the  place  where  Jactjues 

Cartier 


i 


Cha.mi'lain's  Explanation  ok  thk  accomi-anying  Map. 

AniTATinN   DK   (lURnROJ. 

A.  Tlic  ftorelioiife.  /'.  Dove-cote.  C.  A  huildins;  where  our  nrms  are  kept, 
and  for  lod.iiini,' our  workmen.  1).  Another  building  for  our  workmen.  A".  Di.d. 
/■.  Anodier  l)uildin,n.  comprifinj,'  the  blackfmitirs  Ihop  and  llie  !od.i,nn.i;s  of  the 
mechanics.  (;.  Cialleries  extenchnj;  entirely  round  tlie  dweMin^.s.  //.  The  dwell- 
ini,'  of  Sieur  de  Champlain.  /.  (late  to  the  hahitution  wliere  tiiere  is  a  draw- 
])ri(lLje.  L.  I'romenade  about  the  habitation  ten  feet  wide,  e.xtendinj;  to  the 
border  of  the  moat.  JA  Moat  e.xtendinj;  all  round  our  habitation.  X.  I'lut- 
forms.  of  a  tenaille  form,  for  our  cannon.  O.  C.arden  of  Sieur  de  Champlain. 
1\  Tlie  kitchen.  (2-  Open  fpace  before  the  habitation  on  the  Itank  of  the  river. 
A'.  The  great  river  St.  Lawrence. 


810  The  river  St.  Charles  flows  from 
a  lake  in  the  interior  of  the  fame  name. 
It  was  called  by  tlie  Montagnais.  ac- 
cording to  Sagard  as  cited  by  Laver- 
di^re,  in  /(./^.""Caliirecoubat,  becaufe 
it  turns  and  forms  feveral  -points."  Car- 
tier  named  it  the  Holy  Crofs,  or  St. 
Croix,  becaufe  he  fays  he  arrived  there 
'•tiiat  day  ;  "  tint  is',  liie  day  on  which 
the  exaltation  of  the  Crofs  is  eelebrated. 
the  14th  of  September.  1535. —  />VA^ 
Lii>tif>\  Hai<luvt,  Vol.  111.  p.  2G(k  The 
Recollects  gave  it  the  name  of  St. 
Charles,  after  tiie  grand  vicar  of  I'on- 
toife.  Charles  des  Moues.  —  I.avcrdure, 
in  loco.  Jacques  C  rtier  wintered  on  the 
north  (hore  of  the  it.  Charles,  whicii  he 
called  tiie  St.  Croix,  or  the  Holy  Crofs. 
about  a  league  from  (Quebec.     "  Hard 


by.  Uiere  is,  in  that  riuer,  one  place 
very  narrow,  deep,  and  fwitt  running, 
but  it  is  not  paffing  the  third  part 
of  a  Ie:igue,  ouer  againll  the  which 
there  is  a  goodly  high  piece  of  land, 
widi  a  tovvne  therein  :  and  the  country 
about  it  is  very  well  tilled  and  wrouuht, 
and  as  good  as  poffibly  can  be  feene. 
This  is  tiie  place  and  aliode  of  Donna- 
cona,  and  of  our  two  men  we  took  in 
our  firll  voyage,  it  is  called  Stadacona. 
.  .  .  vnder'  which  towne  towanl  the 
North  the  riuer  and  port  of  the  holy 
crolle  is.  where  we  llaied  from  the  1 5  of 
September  vntil  the  16  of  May,  I53(), 
and  there  our  fhips  remained  dry  as  we 
faid  before." — I'ulc  Jaajues  Cartier, 
Si'iond  l'oyai;c,  Hakluyt.  Vol.  III. 
p.  277. 


ti 


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Voyages  of 


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Carticr  wiiUcrcd.^"  fincc  there  are  flill,  a  Icat^uc  up  tlie  river, 
remains  of  what  feems  to  have  been  a  ehininey,  the  fomula- 
tioii  of  which  lias  been  found,  and  indications  of  there  hav- 
iiii;  been  ditches  furroundini;  their  dwelling,  which  was 
riiKill.  We  found,  alfo,  large  pieces  of  hewii,  worm-eaten 
timber,  and  Tome  three  or  four  cannon-balls.  All  thele 
things  Ihow  clearly  that  there  was  a  fettlement  there  founded 
by  Chrillians;  and  what  leads  nie  to  fay  and  believe  that  it 
was  that  of  Jaccpies  Cartier  is  the  facT.  that  there  is  no  cvi- 
tlence  whatever  that  any  one  wintered  and  built  a  houfe  in 
thefe  j)laces  cxcejjt  Jacques  Cartier,  at  the  time  of  his  difcov- 
rrics.  This  place,  as  I  think,  muft  have  been  called  St. 
Croix,  as  he  named  it;  which  name  has  fince  been  trani- 
ferred  to  another  jilace  fifteen  leagues  weft  of  our  fettlement. 
But  there  is  no  evidence  of  liis  having  wintered  in  the  place 
now  called  St.  Croix,  nor  in  any  other  there,  fince  in  this 
direction  there  is  no  river  or  other  place  large  enough  for 
veffels  except  the  main  river  or  that  of  which  I  fpoke  above ; 
here  there  is  half  a  fathom  of  water  at  low  tide,  many  rocks, 
and  a  bank  at  the  mouth  ;  for  veifels,  if  kejjt  in  the  main  river, 
where  there  are  llrong  currents  and  tides,  and  ice  in  the  win- 
ter, drifting  along,  would  run  the  ri(k  of  being  loft ;  efpecially 
as  there  is  a  fandy  point  extending  out  into  the  river,  and 
filled  with  rocks,  between  which  we  have  found,  within  the 
last  three  years,  a  paffage  not  before  difcovered ;  but  one 
muft  go  through  cautioully,  in  confequence  of  the  dangerous 
points  there.    This  place  is  expofed  to  the  north-weft  winds  ; 

and 

'^^  Tlie  fpnt  wliere  Jacques  Cartier  wintered  vis  at  the  junttion  of  the  river 
Lairet  and  the  St.  Charles. 


f  I 


k\ 


.  ~^^3iH689S^^ 


Sicur  dc  Cliamplain. 


i8s 


and  the  river  rur.s  as  if  it  were  a  fall,  the  tide  chhini;  two  and 
a  half  fathoms.  There  are  no  rii;ns  of  buildings  here,  nor 
any  indieations  that  a  man  of  judgment  would  fettle  in  this 
plaee,  there  being  many  other  better  ones,  in  cafe  one  were 
()l)liged  to  make  a  i)ermanent  rtay.  I  have  been  defirous  of 
fpcaking  at  length  on  this  point,  fince  many  believe  that  the 
abode  of  Jacques  Cartier  was  here,  which  I  do  not  believe, 
for  the  rcafons  here  given;  for  Cartier  would  have  left  to 
pofterity  a  narrative  of  the  matter,  as  he  did  in  the  call-  of 
all  he  faw  and  difcovered;  and  I  maintain  that  my  ojjinion 
is  the  true  one,  as  can  be  fliown  by  the  hiflory  which 
he  has  left  in   writing. 

As  flill  farther  proof  that  this  place  now  called  St.  Croix  is 
not  the  place  where  Jacques  Cartier  wintered,  as  mof\  perfons 
think,  this  is  what  he  fays  about  it  in  his  difcoveries,  taken 
from  his  hiftory;  namely,  that  he  arrived  at  the  Ifle  aux 
Coudres  on  the  5th  of  December,^'-  1535,  which  he  called  by 
this  name,  as  hazel-nuts  were  found  there.  There  is  a  flrong 
tidal  current  in  this  place  ;  and  he  fays  that  it  is  tl  lee  leagues 
long,  but  it  is  quite  enough  to  reckon  a  league  and  a  half. 
On'  the  7th  of  the  month,  Notre  Dame  Day,'"^  he  let  out 
from  this  ifland  to  go  up  the  river,  in  which  he  faw  fourteen 
iflands,  diflant  feven  or  eight  leagues  from  Ifle  aux  Coudres 

on 

812  Cartier    difcovered    the     Ifle    of        "i"  Notre  Dame  Day.  iour  de  nojlre 

Coudres,  that  is,  the   ille  of  fill)erts  or  dame,  (liould  read  "Notre  Dame  Kve.'' 

Ivi/el-nuts,  on   tlie   Mil   of   Septoml)er,  CAr{\i:r  (^ys, '' Le/rptu-Jiiic  lonr  ditdul 

,-,r  _  /•/,/,•    Girticr,    !54S.  D'Ave/.ac  inoys  iour  nojlrc-damer   ^Xc.  —  Idem, 

ed     I'aris    1S63  p.    12.     Tliis  illand  is  p.  12.     Hakluyt  renders  it,  "  1  lie  ieu- 

five  nautical  niiles  loiii,'.  which  agrees  enth  of  tiie  nioneth  heing  our  Ladees 

with   the   llatement  of  Champlain,  and  euen."  —  Vol.  II  I.  p.  265. 
its   t,freatert  width  is  two  miles  and  a 
quarter. 

24 


ii 


S 


v, 


i  if 


1 86 


Voyages  of 


n 
II' 


■  f.  f 


i' 


:l 


I! 


on  the  foutb.  He  errs  fomewhat  in  this  cfliniation,  for  it 
is  not  more  than  three  leagues;^'^  He  ahl)  fays  that  tlie 
place  where  the  illands  are  is  the  commencement  of  the 
land  or  province  of  Canada,  and  that  he  reached  an  ifland 
ten  leagues  long  and  five  wide,  where  extenfive  fiflieries  are 
carried  on,  fifh  being  here,  in  fa6l,  very  abundant,  efpecially 
the  fturoeon.  But  its  lenjith  is  not  more  than  fix  leairues, 
and  its  breadth  two ;  a  fa(5l  well  recognized  now.  He  fays 
alfo  that  he  anchored  between  this  ifland  and  the  main  land 
on  the  north,  the  fmallert  paffage,  and  a  dangerous  one, 
where  he  landed  two  faxages  whom  he  had  taken  to  France, 
and  that,  after  flopping  in  this  place  fome  time  with  the 
people  of  the  country,  he  fent  for  his  barques  and  went 
farther  up  the  river,  with  the  tide,  feeking  a  harbor  and 
place  of  fecurity  for  his  fliips.  He  fays,  farther,  that  they 
went  on  up  the  river,  coaffing  along  this  ifland,  the  length 
of  which  he  efiimates  at  ten  leagues ;  and  after  it  was  paflrd 
they  found  a  very  fine  and  pleafant  bay,  containing  a  little 
river  and  bar  harbor,  which  they  found  very  favorable  for 
flieltering  their  veffels.  This  they  named  St.  Croix,  fince 
he  arrived  there  on  this  day ;  and  at  the  time  of  the  x'oyage 
of  Carticr  the  place  was  called  Stadaca,^'^  but  we  now  call 
it  Quebec.  He  fays,  alfo,  that  after  he  had  examined  this 
place  he  returned  to  get  his  velTels  for  paffing  the  winter 
there. 

Now  we  may  conclude,  accordingly,  that  the  diflance  is 

only 

'1*  As     Cliamplain     fuggefts,      thefe     in  mucli  lefc  than  fevt-n  or  eiylit  leagues, 
iflands  are   only  three   leagues   higher     as  Cartier  elliniates. 
up  the  river;  but,  as  they  are  on  the  0|)-         ""'  'I'liis  was  an  error  in  tranfcrihing. 
polite  fide,  they  could  not  be  compafied     Cartier   h.is   Stadacone. —  l'i(L'  Brief 

Recit,  1545,  D'Avezac  ed.,  p.  14. 


'Ti    Kl 


\ 


SitHiiJi.WjRIPWWirj; 


-ijii)|D^W^** 


■^ 


Sietir  de  Champlain. 


187 


only  five  leagues  from  the  lile  aux  Coudres  to  the  Iflc  of 
Orleans,'""  at  the  weftern  extremity  .'f  which  the  river  is  very 
broad ;  and  at  which  bay,  as  Cartier  calls  it,  there  is  no  other 
river  than  that  which  he  called  St.  Croix,  a  good  league 
diflant  from  the  Ifle  of  Orleans,  in  which,  at  low  tide,  there 
is  only  half  a  fathom  of  water.  It  is  very  dangerous  for 
vclTels  at  its  mouth,  there  being  a  large  number  of  fpurs ; 
that  is,  rocks  fcattered  here  and  there.  It  is  accordingly 
necelTary  to  place  buoys  in  order  to  enter,  there  being,  as  I 
have  ftated,  three  fathoms  of  water  at  ordinary  tides,  and 
four  fathoms,  or  four  and  a  half  generally,  at  the  great  tides 
at  full  flood.  It  is  only  fifteen  hundred  paces  from  our 
habitation,  which  is  higher  up  the  river;  and,  as  I  have 
flated,  there  is  no  other  river  up  to  the  place  now  called  St. 
Croix,  where  vcffels  can  lie,  there  being  only  litde  brooks. 
The  fliores  are  flat  and  dangerous,  which  Cartier  does  not 
mention  until  the  time  that  he  fets  out  from  St.  Croix  now 
called  Quebec,  where  he  left  his  veffels,  and  built  his  place  of 
abode,  as  is  feen  from  what  follows. 

On  the  19th  of  September,  he  fet  out  from  St.  Croix, 
where  his  veffels  were,  fetting  fail  with  the  tide  up  the  river, 
which  they  found  very  pleafant,  as  well  on  account  of  the 
woods,  vines,  and  dwellings,  which  were  there  in  his  time,  as 
for  other  reafons.  They  cafl  anchor  twenty-five  leagues 
from  the  entiance  to  the  land  of  Canada ;  ^'^  that  is,  at  the 

weflern 

818  TlT^  diftance,  accordiiifj  to  Laurie's  fituated  at  or  about  Quebec.    This  ftate- 

Clnrt     is    at   lealt    twenty-fix   nautical  nient  is  confirmed  by  the  tellimony  of 

j^n'pj,'     ■  Cartier:  "Ledi A  Donnaconaprianoltre 

8IT  Canada  at  this  time  was  retjarded  cappitainc  de  aller  le  lendcniain  veoir 

by  the    Indians  as  a  hmited  territory,  Canada,    Ce   que   hiy  promilt    le    diCt 

■^  cappitaine. 


1 88 


Voyages  of 


'fr.E  H 


[I 
(' 

w 


!p: 


I 


wcflcrn  extremity  of  the  Ifle  of  Orleans,  fo  called  by  Cartier. 
What  is  now  called  St.  Croix  was  then  called  Achelacy,  at 
a  narrow  pafs  where  the  ri\er  is  very  fwift  and  dangerous  on 
account  of  the  rocks  and  other  things,  and  which  can  on^y 
be  palTed  at  flood-tide.  Its  diftance  from  Quebec  and  the 
river  where  Cartier  wintered  is  fifteen  leagues. 

Now,  throughout  the  entire  extent  of  this  river,  from 
Quebec  to  the  great  fall,  there  are  no  narrows  except  at  the 
place  now  called  St.  Croix,  the  name  of  which  has  been 
transferred  from  one  place  to  another  one,  which  is  very  dan- 
gerous, as  my  defcription  Ihows.  And  it  is  very  apparent, 
from  his  narrative,  that  this  was  not  the  fite  of  his  habitation, 
as  is  claimed  ;  but  that  the  latter  was  near  Quebec,  and  that 
no  one  had  entered  into  a  fpecial  inveftigation  of  this  matter 
before  my  doing  lb  in  my  \oyages.  For  the  firfl  time  I  was 
told  that  he  dwelt  in  this  place,  I  was  greatly  aftoniflied,  find- 
ing no  trace  of  a  river  for  velTels,  as  he  ilates   there  was. 

This 


capjjitaino.  Et  le  ledemain,  13.  iour  du 
diet  moys,  ledict  cai'iiitiiine  aiieniues 
fes  LTontilz  liommes  acc'()mi)aimie  de 
cinqiiante  cnmpaignon.s  bieii  en  ordre, 
alleret  veiiir  k'dict  Doniiacona  &  fnn 
]ji'uple.  (|ui  L'll  diltat  dou  eltoitMit  lef- 
dictrs  nauircs  d'line  lieuc."  —  /  '/(/(•  P)  icf 
J\i\!t,  1545.  D'Avczac  ed.,  p.  29,  <  )f 
the  above  tlic  tullowing  is  Hakluyt".s 
tranlialion  ;  "  Donnacona  their  Lord 
delired  our  Cai)taine  the  next  day  to 
come  and  fee  Canada,  wliich  lie  pnmi- 
ifed  to  tloe  :  tor  the  next  dav  hfini^  the 
13  of  the  moneth.  lie  witli  ail  his  (Gen- 
tlemen and  tiftie  Mariners  very  well 
a])pointed.  went  to  vilite  I)onn;icona  anil 
his  people,  about  a  leajijue  I'roni  our 
(hips." 

Tiieir  fliips  were  at  this  time  at  St. 


Croix,  a  (hort  dillance  uj)  the  St. 
Cliarles,  whicli  Hows  into  the  St.  Law- 
rence at  Oueliec  :  and  the  little  Indian 
viila'.ie.  or  camp,  wliich  Uonnacona 
called  Canada,  was  at  (Quebec.  Other 
paHa-is  from  Cartier.  as  well  as  from 
Jean  .\lfonfe,  harmonize  with  this  which 
we  have  cited.  Canada  was  therefore 
in  Cartier"s  time  only  the  name  of  a 
very  fmall  territory  covered  by  an  In- 
dian villa<:je.  When  it  became  the  cen- 
tre of  French  interells.  it  alTunied  a 
wider  nieaninj^.  The  St.  Lawrence  was 
often  called  the  River  of  Canada,  then 
the  territory  on  its  ihorei,  and  finally 
Can.ida  has  come  to  comprehend  tiie 
vail  liritilh  poiltTrions  in  America  known 
as  the  "  Uominion  of  Canada." 


Skntr  de  Cliaviplain, 


189 


This  led  me  to  make  a  careful  examination,  in  order  to 
remove  tlie  rulpicion  and  doubt  of  many  peribns  in  regard 
to  the  matter;'"^ 

While  the  carpenters,  lawers  of  boards,  and  other  work- 
men, were  employed  on  our  quarters,  I  I'et  all  the  others  to 
work  clearing  up  around  our  place  of  abode,  in  prei)aration 
for  gardens  in  which  to  plant  grain  and  feeds,  that  we 
might  lee  how  they  would  flourifli,  as  the  foil  feemed  to  be 
very  good. 

Meanwhile,  a  large  number  of  favages  were  encamped  in 
cabins  near  us,  engaged  in  fifliing  for  eels,  which  begin  to 
come  about  the  15th  of  September,  and  go  away  on  the  15th 
of  October.  During  this  time,  all  the  favages  fubfift  on  this 
food,  and  dry  enough  of  it  for  the  winter  to  lafl  until  the  month 
of  February,  when  there  are  about  two  and  a  half,  or  at  moft 
three,  feet  of  fnow ;  and,  when  their  eels  and  other  thino-s 
which  they  dry  have  been  prepared,  they  go  to  hunt  the 
beaver  until  the  beginning  of  January.  At  their  departure 
for  this  purpofe,  they  intrufted  to  us  all  their  eels  and  other 
things,  until  their  return,  which  was  on  the  15th  of  December. 
But  they  did  not  have  great  fuccefs  in  the  beaver-hunt,  as 
the  amount  of  water  was  too  great,  the  rivers  having  overrun 
their  banks,  as  they  told  us.  I  returned  to  them  all  their 
fupplies,  which  larted  them  only  until  the  20th  of  January. 
When  their  fupply  of  eels  gave  out,  they  hunted  the  elk  and 

fuch 

81**  The  locality  of  Cartier's  winter-  overwhelmin<Tteftimony  which  he  brings 

quarters   is   ellablifhed    by    Chaniplaia  to  bear  upon  tlie  fuljjeCt.     Ciiarlevoix. 

with  tlie  certainty  of  an  hitlorical  deni-  makes    tiie    St.    Croix    of    Cartier    the 

onllration,  and  yet  there  are  to  be  found  Riviere     de     Jacques     Cartier. — I'iae 

tliofe  wiiofe  judgment  is  fo  warped  by  Sliras  CJiarlcvoix,  \o\.  I.  p.  Ii6. 
preconceived  opinion  that  they  refill  tlie 


■% 

■ 


li 


' 


:■■(■ 


fli^    ^1 


190 


Voyages  of 


fuch  other  wild  bcafts  as  they  could  find  until  fpring,  when  I 
was  able  to  rupi)ly  them  with  various  things.  I  paid  efpecial 
attention   to  their  cuftoms. 

Thefe  people  luffer  fo  much  from  lack  of  food  that  they 
are  Ibmetimes  obliiied  to  live  on  certain  fliell-fifh,  and  eat 
their  dogs  and  the  {kins  with  which  they  clothe  themfelves 
agaiiift  the  cold.  I  am  of  opinion  that,  if  one  were  to  Ihow 
them  how  to  live,  and  teach  them  the  cultivation  of  the  foil 
and  other  things,  they  would  learn  very  aptly.  For  many  of 
them  polTefs  good  lenle,  and  anfwer  properly  queftions  put  to 
them.  They  have  a  bad  habit  of  taking  vengeance,  and  are 
great  liars,  and  you  muft  not  put  much  reliance  on  them,  ex- 
cept judiciouily,  and  with  force  at  hand.  They  make  prom- 
ifes  readily,  but  keep  their  word  poorly.  The  mofl;  of  them 
obferve  no  law  at  all,  fo  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  fee,  and 
are,  befides,  full  of  fuperflitions.  I  afked  them  with  what 
ceremonies  they  were  accuftomed  to  pray  to  their  God,  when 
they  replied  that  they  had  none,  but  that  each  prayed  to  him 
in  his  heart,  as  he  wilhed.  That  is  why  there  is  no  law  among 
them,  and  they  do  not  know  what  it  is  to  worfliip  and  pray 
to  God.  living  as  they  do  like  brute  beafts.  But  I  think  that 
they  would  foon  become  good  Chriflians,  if  people  would  come 
and  inhabit  their  country,  which  they  are  for  the  mofl  part 
defirous  of.  There  are  fome  favages  among  them,  called  by 
them  Pilotois,  whom  they  believe  have  intercourfe  with  the 
devil  face  to  face,  who  tells  them  what  they  muft  do  in  regard 
to  war  and  other  things ;  and,  if  he  fliould  order  them  to  exe- 
cute any  undertaking,  they  would  obey  at  once.  So,  alio,  they 
believe  that  all  their  dreams  are  true  ;  and,  in  facft,  there  are 
many  who  fay  that  they  have  had  vifions  and  dreams  about 

matters 


k\ 


Siettr  de  Champ  lain. 


191 


matters  which  adlually  come  to  pafs  or  will  do  fo.  lUit,  to 
tell  the  truth,  thefe  are  diabolical  vifions,  through  which  they 
are  deceived  and  milled.  This  is  all  I  have  been  able  to 
learn  about  their  brutifli  faith.  All  thefe  people  are  well 
proportioned  in  body,  without  deformity,  and  are  agile.  The 
women,  alfo,  are  well-formed,  plump,  and  of  a  fwarthy  color,  in 
confequence  of  certain  pigments  with  which  they  rub  them- 
felves,  and  which  give  them  a  permanent  olive  color.  They 
are  drelTed  in  fkins  :  a  part  only  of  the  body  is  covered.  But 
in  winter  they  are  covered  throughout,  in  good  furs  of  elk, 
otter,  beaver,  bear,  feals,  deer,  and  roe,  of  which  they  have  large 
quantities.  In  winter,  when  the  fnow  is  deep,  they  make  a 
fort  of  fnow-flioe  of  large  fize,  two  or  three  times  as  large  as 
that  ufed  in  France,  which  they  attach  to  their  feet,  thus  going 
over  the  fnow  without  fmking  in ;  otherwife,  they  could  not 
hunt  or  walk  in  many  places.  They  have  a  fort  of  marriage, 
which  is  as  follows :  When  a  girl  is  fourteen  or  fifteen  years 
old,  and  has  feveral  fuitors,  flie  may  keep  company  with  all  ihe 
likes.  At  the  end  of  five  or  fix  years,  flie  takes  the  one  that 
pleafes  her  for  her  hufband,  and  they  live  together  to  the  end 
of  their  lives.  But  if,  after  living  fome  time  together,  they 
have  no  children,  the  man  can  difunite  himfelf  and  take 
another  woman,  alleging  that  his  own  is  good  for  nothing. 
Hence,  the  girls  have  greater  freedom  than  the  married 
women. 

After  marriage,  the  women  are  chafle,  and  their  hufbands 
generally  jealous.  They  give  prefents  to  the  fathers  or  rela- 
tives of  the  girls  they  have  wedded.  Thefe  are  the  ceremo- 
nies and  forms  obferved  in  their  marriagps.  In  regard  to 
their  burials :  When  a  man  or  a  woman  dies,  they  dig  a  pit, 

in 


>  'J 


I 
i 


rs* 


II 


fl 


1 


It 


192 


Voyages  of 


in  which  they  put  all  their  property,  as  kettles,  furs,  axes, 
bows,  arrows,  robes,  and  other  things.  Then  they  place  the 
body  in  the  pit  and  cover  it  with  earth,  })utting  on  top  many 
large  pieces  of  wood,  and  another  piece  uj)right,  i)ainted  red 
on  the  ujDper  part.  They  believe  in  the  immortal it\'  of  the 
foul,  and  fay  that  they  fliall  be  happy  in  other  lands  with  their 
relatives  and  friends  who  are  dead.  In  the  cafe  of  captains 
or  others  of  fome  diffin^tion,  they  celebrate  a  banquet  three 
times  a  year  after  their  death,  finging  and  dancing  about  the 


grave. 


All  the  time  they  were  with  us,  which  was  the  moft  fecurc 
place  for  them,  they  did  not  ceafe  to  fear  their  enemies  to 
fuch  an  extent  that  they  often  at  night  became  alarmed  while 
dreaming,  and  fent  their  wives  and  children  to  our  fort,  the 
gates  of  which  I  had  opened  to  them,  allowing  the  men  to 
remain  about  the  fort,  but  not  permitting  them  to  enter,  for 
their  perfons  were  thus  as  much  in  fecurity  as  if  they  had 
been  infide.  I  alfo  had  five  or  fix  of  our  men  go  out  to  reaf- 
fure  them,  and  to  go  and  afcertain  whether  they  could  fee 
any  thing  in  the  woods,  in  order  to  c^uiet  them.  1  hey  are 
very  timid  and  in  great  dread  of  their  enemies,  fcarcely  e\'er 
fleeping  in  rejwfe  in  whatever  place  they  may  be,  although  I 
conflantly  realfured  them,  fo  far  as  I  could,  urging  them  to 
do  as  we  did  ;  namely,  that  they  fliould  have  a  portion  watch 
while  the  others  flept,  that  each  one  fliould  have  his  arms  in 
readinefs  like  him  who  was  keeping  watch,  and  that  they 
lliould  not  regard  dreams  as  the  a6tual  truth  to  be  relied 
upon,  fince  they  are  moftly  only  falfe,  to  which  I  alfo  added 
other  words  on  the  fame  fubje^l.  But  thefe  remonffrances 
were  of  little  avail  with  them,  and  they  faid  that  we  knew 

better 


Sieur  de  Cha77iplain, 


193 


better  than  they  how  to  keep  guard  againfl;  all  things ;  and 
that  they,  in  courfe  of  time,  if  we  continued  to  flay  with 
them,  would  be  able  to  learn  it. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Sekds  and  Vines  plaxtf-d  at  Qukbec.  —  Commencement  of  the  Winter 
AND  Ice.  —  ExTRE.ME  Destitution  ok  Certain  Indians 

N  the  I  ft  of  October,  I  had  fomc  wheat  Town, 
and  on  the  15th  fome  rye.  On  the  3d,  there 
was  a  white  '"roft  in  fome  places,  and  the  leaves 
of  the  trees  began  to  fall  on  the  15th.  On  the 
24th,  I  had  fome  native  vines  fet  out,  which 
flourifhed  very  well.  But,  after  leaving  the  fettlement  to  go 
to  France,  they  were  all  fpoiled  from  lack  of  attention,  at 
which  I  was  much  troubled  on  my  return.  On  the  i8th  of 
November,  there  was  a  great  fall  of  fnow,  vv^hich  reniained 
only  two  days  on  the  ground,  during  which  time  there  was  a 
violent  gale  of  wind.  There  died  during  this  month  a  failor 
and  our  lockfmith '"''  of  dyfentery,  fo  alfo  many  Indians  from 
eating  eels  badly  cooked,  as  I  think.  On  the  5th  of  February, 
it  fnowed  violently,  and  the  wind  was  high  for  two  days.  On 
the  20th.  fome  Indians  appealed  on  the  other  fide  of  the 
river,  calling  to  us  to  go  to  their  affiftance,  which  was  beyond 
our  power,  on  account  of  the  large  amount  of  ice  drifting  in 
the  river.  Hunger  preffed  upon  thefe  poor  wretches  fo  fe- 
verely  that,  not  knowing  what  to  do,  they  refolved,  men,  women, 

and 

819  Unlefs   they  had  more  than  one  lockfniith,  iMs  mud  have  been  Antoine 
Natel.  — Vide  antea,  p.  178. 

25 


\ 


Un3«tIlWU,4<B«».*ll 


m 


■H 


i\ 


f  \i 


I 


m  r. 


i  I' I 


194 


Voyages  of 


and  children,  to  crofs  the  river  or  die,  hoping  tliat  I  ihould 
alTill  thcni  in  their  extreme  want.  Havini;  accordindv  made 
this  refolve,  the  men  and  women  took  the  children  and  em- 
barked in  their  canoes,  thinking  that  they  could  reach  our 
fliore  by  an  opening  in  the  ice  made  by  the  wind ;  but  they 
were  fcarcely  in  the  middle  of  the  ftream  when  their  canoes 
were  caught  by  the  ice  and  broken  into  a  thoufand  pieces. 
But  they  were  ikilful  enough  to  throw  themfelves  with  the 
children,  which  the  women  carried  on  their  backs,  on  a  large 
]3i(jce  of  ice.  As  they  were  on  it,  we  heard  them  crying  out 
fo  that  it  excited  intenfe  pity,  as  before  them  there  feemcd 
nothing  but  death.  But  fortune  was  fo  favorable  to  thefe  poor 
wretches  that  a  large  piece  of  ice  ftruck  againft  the  fide  of 
that  on  which  they  were,  fo  violently  as  to  drive  them  afliore. 
On  feeing  this  favorable  turn,  they  reached  the  fliorc  with 
as  much  delight  as  they  ever  experienced,  notwithftanding 
the  great  hunger  from  which  they  were  fufYering.  They  pro- 
ceeded to  our  abode,  fo  thin  and  haggard  that  they  feemed 
like  mere  flvcletons,  moft  of  them  not  being  able  to  hold 
themfelves  up.  I  was  aftoniflied  to  fee  them,  and  obferve  the 
manner  in  which  they  had.  croffed,  in  view  of  their  being  fo 
iceble  and  weak.  I  ordered  fome  bread  and  beans  to  be 
given  them.  So  great  was  their  impatience  to  eat  them,  that 
they  could  not  wait  to  have  them  cooked.  I  lent  them  alfo 
fome  bark,  which  other  favages  had  given  me,  to  cover  their 
cabins.  As  they  were  making  their  cabin,  they  difcovered  a 
piece  of  carrion,  which  I  had  had  thrown  out  nearly  two 
months  before  to  attra6l  the  foxes,  of  which  we  caught  black 
and  red  ones,  like  thofe  in  France,  but  with  heavier  fur. 
This  carrion  confifted  of  a  few  and  a  dog,  which  had  fuf- 

tained 


ii 


Sieur  de  Champlain,  195 

taincd  all  the  rigors  of  the  weather,  hot  and  cold.  When  the 
weather  was  mild,  it  flank  fo  badly  that  one  could  not  go 
near  it.  Yet  they  feized  it  and  carried  it  off  to  their  cabin, 
where  they  forthwith  devoured  it  half  cooked.  No  meat 
ever  feemed  to  them  to  tafte  better.  I  fent  two  or  three 
men  tf)  warn  them  not  to  eat  it,  unlefs  they  wanted  to  die : 
as  they  approached  their  cabin,  they  fmelt  ilich  a  flench  from 
this  carrion  half  warmed  up,  each  one  of  the  Indians  holding 
a  piece  in  his  hand,  that  they  though,  they  fliould  dilgorge, 
and  accordingly  fcarcely  flopped  at  all.  Thefe  poor  wretches 
finidied  their  rejDafl:.  I  did  not  fail,  however,  to  fupply  them 
according  to  my  refources ;  but  this  was  little,  in  view  of  the 
large  number  of  them.  In  the  fpace  of  a  month,  they  would 
have  eaten  up  all  our  provifions,  if  they  had  had  them  in 
their  power,  they  are  fo  gluttonous :  for,  when  they  have 
edibles,  they  lay  nothing  afide,  but  keep  confuming  them 
day  and  night  without  refpite,  afterwards  dying  of  hunger. 
They  did  alfo  another  thing  as  dilgulling  as  that  jufl  men- 
tioned. I  had  caufed  a  bitch  to  be  placed  on  the  top  of  a 
tree,  which  allured  the  martens^'-"  and  birds  of  prey,  from 
which  I  derived  pleafure,  fince  generally  this  carrion  was  at- 
tacked by  them.  Thefe  favages  went  to  the  tree,  and,  being 
too  weak  to  climb  it,  cut  it  down  and  forthwith  took  away 
the  dog,  which  was  only  fkin  and  bones,  the  tainted  head 
emitting  a  flench,  but  which  was  at  once  devoured. 

This  is  the  kind  of  enjoyment  they  experience  for  the 
mofl  part  in  winter;  for  in  fummer  they  are  able  to  fupport 
themfelves,  and  to  obtain  provifions  fo  as  not  to  be  aflailed 

by 

820  ^fartres.    The  common  weafel,  Mtijkla  vulgaris. 


I 


iV  \ 


H 


i 


Jp 


«i   ». 


196 


Voyages  of 


h\  fuch  extreme  lumjjjer,  tlie  rivers  aboundii^L;  in  filli,  while 
birds  and  wild  animals  fill  the  ountry  about.  The  foil 
is  very  good  and  well  adajHed  for  tillage,  if  they  wouid 
but  take  pains  to  plant  Indian  corn,  as  all  their  neighbors 
do,  the  vVlgonciuins,  Ochaflaiguins,''-'  and  Iroquois,  who  arc 
not  attacked  by  fuch  extremes  of  hunger,  which  they  pro- 
ide  againll  by  their  carefulnefs  and  forefight,  fo  that  they 
live  hapi)ily  in  comparifon  with  the  Montagnais,  Canadians, 
and  Souriquois  along  the  feacoafl.  This  is  in  the  main  their 
wretched  manner  of  life.  The  fnow  and  ice  lafl  three  months 
there,  from  January  to  the  8th  of  April,  when  it  is  nearly 
all  uK'lted :  at  the  latefl,  it  is  only  leldom  that  any  is  feen 
at  the  end  of  the  latter  month  at  our  fettlemcnt.  It  is  re- 
markable that  fo  much  Ihow  and  ice  as  there  is  on  the  river, 
and  which  is  from  two  to  three  fathoms  thick,  is  all  melted 
in  Icis  than  twelve  days.  I-'rom  TadoulTac  to  Gafpe,  Cape 
Breton,  Newfoundland,  and  the  Great  Hay,  the  fnow  and  ice 
continue  in  mofi:  places  until  the  end  of  May,  at  which  time 

the 


' 


\ 


1>       '    ' 


i,  : 

t 

i  I' 


1       ., 

Hi 


j;|    \ 


^'-1  Ochajhiii^nins.  This,  fays  La- 
vcrdit'^re.  is  what  Champlain  firil  caJk'd 
the  lluions,  from  the  name  of  Ocha- 
teyuin.  one  of  their  chiefs.  Huron  was 
a  nickname  :  tlie  proper  name  of  this 
trilie  was  Wendot  or  Wyandot.  They 
occupied  tile  eallern  hank  of  Lake  Hu- 
ron and  tlie  I'outiiern  thores  of  tlie 
(Jeor^ian  I5ay.  The  knowledge  of  the 
feveral  tribes  here  referred  to  had  ])een 
obtained  by  Ch.implain,  jiartly  from  his 
own  obfervation  and  partly  from  the 
Indians.  The  Al^omnieciuins  or  Al- 
gonquins,  known  at  this  time  to  Cham- 
plain,  were  from  the  region  of  the 
Ottawa.  The  Yroquois  or  Iroquois 
dwelt  foulh  of  the  St.  Lawrence  in  the 


State  of  New  York,  and  comprifed  what 

are  genor  lily  known  a.s  the  Five  Nations. 
The  .Montagnais  or  Montaignets  had 
their  great  trading-pull  at  Tadoullac, 
and  roamed  over  a  vail  territory  north 
and  eatl  of  that  point,  and  well  of  it  as 
far  as  the  mountains  that  feparate  the 
waters  of  the  Saguenay  and  tliofe  of  the 
Ottawa.  The  name  was  given  to  them 
by  the  French  from  this  mountain 
range.  The  Canadians  were  tliofe 
about  the  neighborhood  of  Ouebec. 
Tlie  Souriquois  were  of  Nova  Scotia, 
and  fubfequently  known  a.s  Micmacs. 
Of  moll  of  thefe  different  tribes.  Cham- 
plain  could  fpcak  from  perfonal  knowl- 
edge. 


Wiiw.^ 


Sicttr  de  Cliamplain.  197 

tlic  entire  entrapce  of  the  great  river  is  fealecl  witli  ice;  al- 
though  at  Queijec  there  is  none  at  all,  (liowing  a  llrange  dif- 
ference  for  one  hundred  and  twenty  leagues  in  longitude,  for 
the  entrance  to  the  river  is  in  latitude  49"  50'  to  51",  and  our 
fettlement ''"  in  46"  40'. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

TuK  Sci'Kvv  AT  QuKRicc.  —  iTowTirr:  Wintkr  pas.sf.d.— Dkscrii'Tio^  op 

TIIK    I'l.ACR.  —  AkRIVAL    AT    QUICIIKC    OK    SlKUR     DKS     MakaiS,    SoN-IN- 

LAw  OK  Pont  Grave. 

HE  fcurvy  began  very  late;  namely,  in  February, 
and  continued  until  the  middle  of  April.  High- 
teen  were  attacked,  and  ten  died;  five  others 
d)ing  of  the  dyfentery.  I  had  Ibme  opened,  to 
fee  whether  they  were  tainted,  like  thoi'e  I  had 
feen  in  our  other  fettlcments.  They  were  found  the  lame. 
Some  time  after,  ou"  furgeon  dicd.^'^  All  <-his  troubled  us 
very  much,  on  account  of  the  diflficulty  we  had  in  attending 
to  the  fick.  The  nature  of  this  difeafe  I  have  defcribecl 
before. 

It  is  my  opinion  that  this  difeafe  proceeds  only  from  eating 
exceffively  of  fait  food  and  vegetables,  which  heat  the  blood 
and  corrupt  the  internal  parts.  The  winter  is  alfo,  in  part, 
its  caufe;  fince  it  checks  the  natural  warmth,  caufing  a 
flill  greater  corruption  of  the  blood.     There  rife  alfo  from 

the 

822  Laverdiire  gives  the  exa(R^  latitude         *-"  His  name  way  Bonnerme.  — Vide 
of  Quebec  at  tlie  Obfcrvatory,  on  the     nutea,  p.  iSo. 
autliority  of  Captain   liayfieli,   as  46° 
49'  8". 


'1 


I, 


^ 


w     >> 


\ 


I 


■I 


i> 


I'    H 


198 


Voyngcs  of 


tlic  eartli,  when  firfl  cleared  up,  certain  vapors  which  infe(5t 
the  air:  this  has  been  obl'erved  in  the  cafe  of  thofe  who  have 
lived  at  other  feltlenients ;  after  the  firll  year  when  the  W\\\ 
had  been  let  in  upon  what  was  not  before  cleared  up,  as 
well  in  our  abode  as  in  other  places,  the  air  was  much 
better,  and  the  difeafes  not  lb  violent  as  before.  Hut  the 
country  is  fi'^e  and  pleafant,  and  brinLj;s  to  maturity  all  kinds 
of  strains  ana  feeds,  there  beino^  found  all  the  various  kinds 
of  trees,  which  we  have  here  in  our  forells,  and  many  fruits, 
although  they  are  naturally  wild ;  as,  nut-trees,  cherry-trees, 
pluni-trces,  vines,  rafpberries.  Ib'awberries, currants,  both  green 
and  red,  and  feveral  other  fmall  fruits,  which  are  very  good. 
There  are  alio  feveral  kinds  of  excellent  plants  and  roots. 
Filhing  is  abundant  in  the  rivers;  and  game  without  limit  on 
the  numerous  meadows  bordering  them.  l"'rom  the  month  of 
April  to  the  15th  of  December,  the  air  is  fo  pure  and  healthy 
that  one  does  not  experience  the  High  tell  indifpofition.  But 
January,  February,  and  March  are  dangerous,  on  account  of  the 
fickneffes  prevailing  at  this  time,  rather  than  in  fummer,  for 
the  reafons  before  given  ;  for,  as  to  treatment,  all  of  my  com- 
pany were  well  clothed,  provided  with  good  beds,  and  well 
warmed  and  fed,  that  is,  with  the  fait  meats  we  had,  which, 
in  my  opinion,  injured  them  greatly,  as  I  have  already  flated. 
As  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  fee,  the  ficknefs  attacks  one 
who  i;  lelicate  in  his  living  and  takes  particular  care  ofhim- 
felf  as  readily  as  one  whofc  condition  is  as  wretched  as  poffi- 
ble.  We  fuppofed  at  firft  that  the  workmen  only  would  be 
attacked  with  this  difeafe  ;  but  this  we  found  was  not  the  cafe. 
Thofe  failing  to  the  Eaft  Indies  and  various  other  regions,  as 
Germany  and  England,  are  attacked  with  it  as  well  as  in  New 

France. 


'; 


Sieur  do  Champlain, 


199 


France.  Some  lime  ago,  the  I'lemiHi,  hein^  attacked  witli 
this  malady  in  their  voyages  to  the  Indies,  found  a  very  ilrange 
remedy,  wiiicli  might  be  of  lervice  to  us;  but  we  have  never 
afeertained  the  characfler  of  it.  Yet  I  am  confident  that, 
witli  good  bread  and  frelh  meat,  a  perfon  would  not  be  Hable 
to  it. 

On  the  8th  of  April,  the  fnow  had  all  melted;  and  yet  the 
air  was  Hill  very  cold  until  April,''"-^'  when  the  trees  begin  to 
leaf  out. 

Some  of  thofe  fick  with  the  fcurvy  were  cured  when  fpring 
came,  which  is  the  fcafon  for  recovery.  I  had  a  lavage  of  the 
country  wintering  with  me,  who  was  attacked  with  this  dif- 
cafe  from  having  changed  his  diet  to  fait  meat;  and  he  died 
from  its  effects,  which  clearly  fliows  that  fait  food  is  not 
nourilhing,  but  (juite  the  contrary  in  this  difeale. 

On  the  5th  of  June,  a  fliallop  arrived  at  our  fettlemcnt 
with  Sieur  des  Marais,  a  fon-in-law  of  Pont  Grave,  bringing 
us  the  tidings  that  his  father-in-law  had  arrived  at  TadoulTac 
on  the  28th  of  May.  This  intelligence  gave  me  much  fatif- 
fadion,as  we  entertained  hopes  of  affiflance  from  him.  Only 
eight  out  of  the  twenty-eight  at  firfl  forming  our  company 
were  remaining,  and  half  of  thefe  were  ailing. 

On  the  7th  of  June,  I  fet  out  from  Quebec  for  Tadouffac 
on  fome  matters  of  bufinefs,  and  afked  Sieur  des  Marais  to 
flay  in  my  place  until  my  return,  which  he  did. 

Immediately  upon  my  arrival,  Pont  Grave  and  I  had  a 
conference  in  regard  to  fome  explorations  which  I  was  to 
make  in  the  interior,  where   the   favages  had  promifed  to 


82^  Read  May  inftead  of  April. 


guide 


\  \ 


ll 


200 


Voyages  of 


guide  us.  We  determined  that  I  fliould  go  in  a  fliallop  with 
twenty  men,  and  tliat  Pont  Grave  Ihould  Hay  at  Tadoullac  to 
arrange  the  affairs  of  our  fettlement;  and  this  determination 
was  carried  out,  he  fpending  tlie  winter  there.  This  arrange- 
ment was  efpecially  defirable,  fince  I  was  to  return  to  France, 
according  to  the  orders  fent  out  by  Sieur  de  Monts,  in  order 
to  inform  him  of  what  I  had  done  and  the  explorations  I  had 
made  in  the  country. 

After  this  decifion,  I  fet  out  at  once  from  Tadouffac,  and 
returned  to  Quebec,  where  I  had  a  (liallop  fitted  out  with  all 
that  was  necelTary  for  making  explorations  in  the  country  of 
the   Iroquois,  where  I  was  to  go  with  our  allies,  the  IMon- 


tagnais. 


CHArTI":R   VII. 


DEPARTaRE   FROM   QUEHEC   AND  VoVAGE   TO   THE    IlE    St.  EloI. 
THERE   WITH   THE   ALGONQUIN'S   AND   OCHATAIGUINS. 


Meeting 


ITH  this  purpofe,  I  fet  out  on  the  i8th  of  the 

month.    Here  the  river  begins  to  widen,  in  fome 

places  to  the  breadth  of  a  league  or  a  league  and 

a  half.     The  country  becomes  more  and  more 

beautiful.     There  are    hills  aloncr  the    river  in 

part,  and  in  part  it  is  a  level  country,  with  but  few  rocks. 

The    river   itfelf    is   dangerous    in    many  places,    in   confe- 

quence   of  its  banks  and   rocks ;  and  it  is  not  fafe  failing 

without    keeping   the   lead   in    hand.      The    river    is   very 

abundant  in  many  kinds  of  fifh,  not  only  fuch  as  we  have 

here,  but  others  which  we  have  not.     The  country  is  thickly 

covered  with  maffive  and   lofty  forefls,  of  the  fame  kind  of 

trees 


Siciir  de  Champlain, 


20I 


'op  with 
bullae  to 
nination 
irrangc- 
Francc, 
in  order 
IS  I  had 

fac,  and 
witli  all 
in try  of 
2  Mon- 


IMeeting 

of  the 
n  fome 
ue  and 

1  more 
iver  in 

rocks. 

conP> 
failino: 
>    very 

2  have 
:hickly 
ind  of 

trees 


trees  as  wc  have  about  our  habitation.  There  are  alfo  many 
vines  and  nut-trees  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  many 
fmall  brooks  and  llreams  which  are  only  navigable  with 
canoes.  We  palled  near  Point  St.  Croix,  which  many  main- 
tain, as  I  have  faid  ellewhere,  is  the  place  where  Jacques  Car- 
tier  fpent  the  winter.  This  point  is  fandy,  extending  fome 
diflance  out  into  the  river,  and  expofed  to  the  nortli-wefl 
wind,  which  beats  upon  it.  There  are  fome  meadows, coxered 
however  every  full  tide,  which  falls  nearly  two  fathoms  and  a 
half.  This  paffage  is  very  dangerous  on  account  of  the  large 
number  of  rocks  ftretching  acrofs  the  river,  ?/thouo-h  there  is  a 
good  but  very  winding  channel,  where  tlie  river  runs  like  a 
race,  rendering  it  neceffary  to  take  the  proper  time  for  paff- 
ing.  This  place  has  deceived  many,  who  thought  they  could 
only  pals  at  high  tide  from  there  being  no  channel :  but  wc 
have  now  found  the  contrary  to  be  true,  for  one  can  go  down 
at  low  tide  ;  but  it  would  be  difficult  to  afcend,  in  conlequence 
of  the  flrong  current,  unlets  there  were  a  good  wind.  It  is 
conlequently  neceffary  to  wait  until  the  tide  is  a  third  flood, 
in  order  to  pafs,  when  the  current  in  the  channel  is  fix,  eight, 
ten,  twelve,  and  fifteen  fathoms  deep. 

Continuing  our  courle,  we  reached  a  very  pleafant  river, 
nine  leagues  diftant  from  St.  Croix  and  twenty-four  from 
Quebec.  This  we  named  St.  IMary  s  River."'''  The  river  all 
the  way  from  St.  Croix  is  very  pleafant. 

Purfuinsj:  our  route,  I  met  fome  two  or  three  hundred 
favages,  who  were  encamped  in  huts  near  a  little  iiland  called 
St.  Eloi,''-'^  a  league  and  a  iudf  diftant  from  St.  IMary.     We 

made 

^'^  This  liver  is  now  called  the  Sainte  ^'^^'  A  fmall  illaiul  near  Batifcan,  not 
Anne.  on  the  charts. 

26 


, 


.1 


y- 


H 


)i 


I  I 


k\ 


i    V 


ii 


1 

f 

r 

Li  ' 

202 


I 

I 


Voyages  of 


made  a  rcconnoiffance,  and  found  that  they  were  tribes  of 
favagcs,  called  Ochateguins  and  Algonquins,"'^^  on  their 
way  to  Quebec,  to  affift  us  in  exploring  the  territory  of  the 
Iroquois,  with  whom  they  are  in  deadly  hoftility,  Iparing 
nothinrj  belonofinci:  to  their  enemies. 

After  reconnoitring,  I  went  on  fliore  to  fee  them,  and  in- 
quired who  their  chief  was.  They  told  me  there  were  two, 
one  named  Yroquet,  and  the  other  Ochafleguin,  whom  they 
pointed  out  to  me.  I  went  to  their  cabin,  where  they  gave 
me  a  ccrdial  reception,  as  is  their  cuftom. 

I  proceeded  to  inforni  them  of  the  obje(5l  of  my  voyage, 
with  which  they  were  greatly  pleafed.  After  fome  talk,  I 
withdrew.  Some  time  after,  they  came  to  my  fliallop,  and 
prefented  me  with  fome  peltry,  exhibiting  many  tokens  of 
pleafure.     Then  they  returned  to  the  fhore. 

The  next  day,  the  two  chiefs  came  to  fee  me,  when  they 
remained  fome  time  without  faying  a  word,  meditating  and 
fmoking  all  the  while.  After  due  refle6lion,  they  began  to 
harangue  in  a  loud  voice  all  their  companions  who  were  on 
the  bank  of  the  river,  with  their  arms  in  their  hands,  and  lis- 
tening very  attentively  to  what  their  chi  '"s  faid  to  them,  which 
was  as  follows :  that  nearly  ten  moons  ago,  according  to  their 
mode  of  reckoning,  the  fon  of  Yroquei  had  feen  me,  and  that 
I  had  given  him  a  good  reception,  and  declared  that  Pont 
Grave  and  I  defn-ed  to  affifl  them  af^ainft  their  enemies,  with 
whom  they  had  for  a  long  time  been  at  warfare,  on  account 
of  many  cruel  acfls  committed  by  them  againll  their  tribe, 
under  color  of  friendfhip ;  that,  having  ever  fince  longed  for 
vengeance,  they  had  folicited  all  the  favages,  whom  I  faw  on 

the 

^'"  Hurons  and  Algonquins. 


\    k: 


^smmmm 


Sieur  de  Champlain.  203 

tl.c  bank  of  the  river,  to  come  and  make  an  alliance  with  us, 
and  that  their  never  having  ieen  Chriftians  alio  impelled  them 
to  come  and  vifit  us ;  that  I  fliould  do  with  them  and  their 
companions  as  I  wiflied ;  that  they  had  no  children  with 
them,  but  men  verfed  in  war  and  full  of  courage,  acquainted 
with  the  country  and  rivers  in  the  land  of  the  Iroquois  ; 
that  now  they  entreated  me  to  return  to  our  lettlement,  that 
they  might  fee  our  houfes,  and  that,  after  three  days,  we  fhould 
all  together  come  back  to  engage  in  the  war ;  that,  as  a  token 
of  firm  friendfliip  and  joy,  I  lliould  have  mufkets  and  arque- 
bules  fired,  at  which  they  would  be  greatly  pleafed.  This  I 
did,  when  they  uttered  great  cries  of  aftoniiliment,  efpecially 
thofe  who  had  never  heard  nor  feen  the  like. 

After  hearing  them,  I  replied  that,  if  they  defired,  I 
fliould  be  very  glad  to  return  to  our  fettlement,  to  gratify 
them  ftill  more ;  and  that  they  might  conclude  that  I  had  no 
other  purpofe  than  to  engage  in  the  war,  fmce  we  carried  with 
us  nothing  but  arms,  and  not  merchandife  for  barter,  as  they 
had  been  given  to  underfland  ;  and  that  my  only  defire  was  to 
fulfill  what  I  had  promifed  them ;  and  that,  if  I  had  known 
of  any  who  had  made  evil  reports  to  them,  I  fliould  regard 
them  as  enemies  more  than  they  did  themfelves.  They  told 
me  that  they  believed  nothing  of  them,  and  that  they  never 
had  heard  any  one  fpeak  thus.  But  the  contrary  was  the 
cafe ;  for  there  were  fon  e  favages  who  told  it  to  ours.  I  con- 
tented myfelf  with  w'aiting  for  an  opportunity  to  fliow  them 
in  fad;  fomething  more  than  they  could  have  expe6led  from 

me. 

CHAPTER   VIII. 


'  J 


H 


204 


Voyages  of 


\\  'Ji 


(I 


i  • 


11 


i 

' 

; 


.  1  •) 


';!f 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

Return  to  Oui'MKc  —  Continuation  ^>ftki;\\aki)s  with  tuk  Savages  to 
THE  Fall  ok  the  Rivek  of  the  Ikoquois. 

HE  next  day,  we  fet  out  all  together  for  our  fettle- 
ment,  where  they  enjoyed  themfelves  fome  five  or 
fix  days,  which  were  fpent  in  dances  and  fefi:ivitics, 
on  account  of  their  eacjernefs  for  us  to  encfafre 
in  the  war. 

Pont  Grave  came  forthwith  from  Tadouifac  with  two  little 
barques  full  of  men,  in  compliance  with  a  letter,  in  which  I 
begged  him  to  come  as  fpeedily  as  poffible. 

The  favages  feeing  him  arrive  rejoiced  more  than  ever,  in- 
afiiiuch  as  I  told  them  that  he  had  given  Ibme  of  his  men  to 
afiifl  them,  and  that  perhaps  we  fhould  go  together. 

On  the  28th  of  the  month,^^*^  we  equipped  fome  barques 
for  affifting  thefe  favages.  Pont  Grave  embarked  on  one  and 
I  on  the  other,  when  we  all  fet  out  together.  The  firfl  of 
June,^--'  we  arrived  at  St.  Croix,  difiant  fifteen  leagues  from 
Quebec,  where  Pont  Grave  and  I  concluded  that,  for  certain 
realbns,  I  lliould  go  with  the  favages,  and  he  to  our  fettlement 
and  to  Tadouifac.  This  refolution  being  taken,  I  embarked 
in  my  fliallop  all  that  was  neceffary,  together  with  Des  Marais 
and  La  Routte,  our  pilot,  and  nine  men. 

I  fet  out  from  St.  Croix  on  the  3d  of  June^^"  with  all  the 
favages.      We  paffed  the   Trois   Rivieres,  a  very  beautiful 

country, 


8-s  The  reader  will  obferve  that  this 
mull  have  been  the  28th  of  June,  1609. 


3-'«  Read  ift  of  July. 
»80  Read  3d  of  July. 


W 


h 


i      i 


■psimimmmim 


Siettr  de  Champlain. 


205 

country,  covered  with  a  growth  of  fine  trees.  From  this 
place  to  St.  Croix  is  a  diftance  of  fifteen  leagues.  At  the 
mouth  of  the  above-named  river  ^="  there  are  fix  iflands,  three 
of  which  are  very  fmall,  the  others  forne  fifteen  to  fixteen 
hundred  paces  long,  very  pleafant  in  appearance.  Near  Lake 
St.  Peter,^''^  fome  two  leagues  up  the  river,  there  is  a  little 
fall  not  very  difficult  to  pafs.  This  place  is  in  latitude  46°, 
lacking  fome  minutes.  The  favages  of  the  country  gave  us 
to  underfland  that  fome  days'  journey  up  this  river  there  is  a 
lake,  through  which  the  river  flows.  The  length  of  the  lake 
is  ten  days'  journey,  when  fome  falls  are  paffed,  and  after- 
wards three  or  four  other  lakes  of  five  or  fix  days'  journey  in 
length.  Having  reached  the  end  of  thefe,  they  go  four  or 
five  leagues  by  land,  and  enter  flill  another  lake,  where  the 
Sacque  has  its  principal  fource.  From  this  lake,  the  favages 
go  to  Tadouffac.^^'^^  The  Trois  Rivieres  extends  forty  days' 
journey  of  the  favages.  They  fay  that  at  the  end  of  this  river 
there  is  a  people,  who  are  great  hunters,  without  a  fixed 
abode,  and  who  are  lefs  than  fix  days'  journey  from  the 
North  Sea.  What  little  of  the  country  I  have  feen  is  fandy, 
very  high,  with  hills,  covered  with  large  quantities  of  pine 
and  fir  on  the  river  border ;  but  fome  quarter  of  a  league  in- 
land the  woods  are  very  fine  and  open,  and  the  country  le\'el. 
Thence  we  continued  our  courfe  to  the  entrance  of  Lake 

St.  Peter, 

time  called  St.  Peter,  in  1603.  on  St. 
Peter's  d;iy,  the  29111  June,  and  prob- 
ably fo  named  it  from  that  circumltance. 
^'*^  From  the  carrying-place  they 
enter  the  Lake  St.  John,  and  from  it 
defcend  by  the  Saguenay  to  TadouiTac. 
In  the  preceding  paflage,  Sacque  was 
plainly  intended  for  Saguenay. 


^'^^  The  river  is  now  called  St. 
Maurice  ;  and  the  town  at  its  mouth, 
Three  Rivers.  Two  iflands  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  divide  it  into  three;  hence, 
it  was  originally  called  Trois  Rivieres, 
or  Three  Rivers. 

^*'  Laverdi(!;re  fuggefls  that  Cham- 
plain  entered  this  lake,  now  for  the  tiril 


\>i  (I 


li 


% 


s. 


fl 


h  I 


r  1 


l«     ! 


I      .  • 


li        ki 


In 


t 


i^      .     f 


t-^     I 


5  :  i  h  ^ 


206 


Voyages  of 


St.  Peter,  where  the  country  is  exceedingly  plcafant  and  level, 
and  croffed  the  lake,  in  two,  three,  and  four  fathoms  of  water, 
which  is  fome  eight  leagues  long  and  four  wide.  On  the 
north  fide,  we  faw  a  very  plealant  river,  extending  fome  twenty 
leairues  into  th<^  interior,  which  I  named  St.  Suzanne ;  on 
the  fouth  fide,  there  are  two,  one  called  Riviere  du  Pont, 
the  other.  Riviere  de  Gennes,''^^  which  are  very  ]3retty,  and 
in  a  fine  and  fertile  country.  The  water  is  almoft  ftill  in  the 
lake,  which  is  full  of  fifh.  On  the  north  bank,  there  are  feen 
fome  llight  elevations  at  a  diftance  of  fome  twelve  or  fifteen 
leagues  from  the  lake.  After  croffing  the  lake,  we  paffed  a 
large  number  of  iflands  of  various  fizes,  containing  many  nut- 
Uees  and  vines,  and  fine  meadows,  with  quantities  of  game 
and  wild  animals,  which  go  over  from  the  main  land  to  thefe 
iflands.  Fiili  are  here  more  abundant  than  in  any  other  part 
of  the  river  that  we  had  feen.  From  thefe  iflands,  we  went  to 
the  mouth  of  the  River  of  the  Iroquois,  where  we  flayed  two 
days,  refrefliing  ourfelves  with  good  venifon,  birds,  and  fifli, 
which  the  favages  gave  us.  Here  there  fprang  up  among 
them  fome  difference  of  opinion  on  the  fubje6l  of  the  war,  fo 
that  a  portion  or  j  determined  to  go  with  me,  while  the  others 
returned  to  their  country  with  their  wives  and  the  merchand- 
ife  which  they  had  obtained  by  barter. 

Setting  out  from  the  mouth  of  this  river,  which  is  fome 
four  hundred  to  five  hundred  paces  broad,  and  very  beautiful, 


tl 


^^^  Of  the  three  rivers  flowing  into 
Lake  St.  Peter,  none  retains  the  name 
given  ;o  them  l)y  Champlain.  His  .5"/. 
Suzanne  is  the  river  du  Loup ;  his 
Riviere  du  Pont  is  the  river  St.  Fran- 


runnmg 


^ois;  and  his  De  Gennes  is  now  repre- 
sented by  the  Yamalka.  Compare 
Champlain's  map  of  1612  with  Laurie's 
Chart  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence. 


I  %.  i 


V  > 


Sietir  de  Champlam. 


207 


running  fouthward,^^"'  we  arrived  at  a  place  in  latitude  45°, 
and  twenty-two  or  twenty-three  leagues  from  the  Trois  Riv- 
ieres. All  this  river  from  its  mouth  to  the  firft  fall,  a  diftance 
of  fifteen  leagues,  is  very  fmooth,  and  bordered  with  woods, 
like  all  the  other  places  before  named,  and  of  the  fame  forts. 
There  are  nine  or  ten  fine  iflands  before  reachintij  the  fall 
of  the  Iroquois,  which  are  a  league  or  a  league  and  a  half 
long,  and  covered  with  numerous  oaks  and  nut-trees.  The 
river  is  nearly  half  a  league  wide  in  places,  and  very  abun- 
dant in  fifli.  We  found  in  no  place  lefs  than  four  feet  of 
water.  The  approach  to  the  fall  is  a  kind  of  lake,^''"  where 
the  water  defcends,  and  which  is  fome  three  leagues  in  cir- 
cuit. There  are  here  fome  meadows,  but  not  inhabited  by 
favages  011  account  of  the  wars.  There  is  very  little  water  at 
the  fall,  which  runs  with  great  rapidity.  There  are  alio  many 
rocks  and  ftones,  fo  that  the  favages  cannot  go  up  by  water, 
although  they  go  down  very  eafily.  All  this  region  is  very 
level,  covered  with  forefts,  vines,  and  nut-trees.  No  Chriflians 
had  been  in  this  place  before  us ;  and  we  had  confiderable 
dilTficulty  in  afcending  the  river  with  oars. 

As  foon  as  we  had  reached  the  fall,  Des  Marais,  La  Routte, 
and  I,  with  five  men,  went  on  fliore  to  fee  whether  we  could 
pafs  this  place ;  but  we  went  fome  league  and  a  half  without 
feeing  any  profped  of  being  able  to  do  fo,  finding  only  water 
runnino:  with  orreat  fwiftnefs,  and  in  all  directions  many  flones, 
very  dangerous,  and  with  but  little  water  about  them.  The 
fall  is  perhaps  fix  hundred  paces  broad.     Finding  that  it  was 

impoffible 

338  This  is  an  error :  the  River  of  the  ^^e  jhe  Chambly  Eafin.  On  Charle- 
lroc|iiois,  now  commonly  known  as  the  voix's  Carte  de  ha  Riviere  Richeheu,  it 
Richelieu,  runs  towards  the  north.  is  called  Bal'fin  de  St.  Louis. 


rf 


IK 

■  I 


l-f; 


4 


208 


Voyages  of 


r^! 


1:^ 


k    l:i 


impoffible  to  cut  a  way  through  the  woods  with  tlic  fmnll 
nuuibcr  of  men  that  I  had,  I  determined,  after  confultation 
with  the  reft,  to  cliange  my  original  refohition.  formed  on  the 
affu ranee  of  tlie  favages  that  the  roads  were  eafy,  but  which 
we  did  not  find  to  be  the  cale,  as  I  have  ftated.  We  accord- 
ingly returned  to  our  fliallop,  where  I  had  left  fome  men  as 
guards,  and  to  indicate  to  the  favages  upon  their  arrival  that 
we  had  gone  to  make  explorations  along  the  fall. 

After  making  what  obfervations  I  wilhed  in  this  place,  we 
met,  on  returning,  fome  favages,  who  had  come  to  reconnoitre, 
as  we  had  done.  They  told  us  that  all  their  companions  had 
arrived  at  our  fliallop,  where  we  found  them  greatly  pleafed, 
and  delighted  that  we  had  gone  in  this  manner  without  a 
guide,  aide  [  only  by  the  reports  they  had  feveral  times  made 
to  us. 

Having  returned,  and  feeing  the  flight  profpe(5t  there  was 
of  paffing  the  fall  with  our  Ihallop,  I  was  much  troubled. 
And  it  ga\'e  me  efpecial  dif{atisfa61;ion  to  go  back  without 
feeing  a  very  large  lake,  filled  with  handfome  iflands,  and 
with  large  tracts  of  fine  land  bordering  en  the  lake,  where 
their  enemies  live  according  to  their  repre(entations.  After 
duly  thinking  over  the  matter,  I  determined  to  go  and 
fulfil  my  promife,  and  carry  out  my  defire.  Accordingly,  I 
embarked  with  the  favares  in  their  canoes,  takinoj  with  me  two 
men,  who  went  cheerfully.  After  making  known  my  plan  to 
Des  Marais  and  others  in  the  fhallop,  I  requefted  the  former 
to  return  to  our  fettlement  with  the  refl  of  our  company,  giv- 
ing them  the  affurance  that,  in  a  fliort  time,  by  God's  grace, 
I  would  return  to  them. 

I  proceeded  forthwith  ttf  have  a  conference  with  the  cap- 
tains 


' 


:\ 


Sieitr  de  Champlain. 


209 


tains  of  the  favages,  and  gave  them  to  underfland  that  they 
had  told  me  the  oppofite  of  what  my  obfervations  found  to 
be  the  cafe  at  the  fall ;  namely,  that  it  was  impoffible  to  pafs 
it  with  the  ihallop,  but  that  this  would  not  prevent  me  from 
alfifling  tliem  as  I  had  promifed.  This  communication  trou- 
bled them  greatly ;  and  they  delired  to  change  their  deter- 
mination, but  I  urged  them  not  to  do  fo,  telling  them  that 
they  ought  to  carry  out  their  firfl  plan,  and  that  I,  with  two 
others,  would  go  to  the  war  with  them  in  their  canoes,  in 
order  to  fliow  them  that,  as  for  me,  I  would  not  break  my 
word  given  to  them,  although  alone ;  but  that  I  was  unwill- 
ing then  to  oblige  any  one  of  my  companions  to  embark,  and 
would  only  take  with  me  thofe  who  had  the  inclination  to  go, 
of  whom  I  had  found  two. 

They  were  greatly  pleafed  at  what  I  faid  to  them,  and  at 
the  determination  which  I  had  taken,  promifmg,  as  before,  to 


fhow  me  fine  things. 


I 


CHAPTER   IX. 


27 


jlfi 

i' 

n 


»»^n*jii»iMiW«j;»L'M  rytiito 


I 


2IO 


Voyages  of 


I ' 


t^ 


f  I 


% 


1 

1^ 

;  1 

-  % 

t 

'  '            •  I 

:'   } 

1 

■ 

> 

, 

!! 


n 


CIIAPTKR   IX. 

Dfpauture  from  the  Fall  of  the  Ikoqi'ois  River.  — Description  of 
A  LAHf;K  Lakk.  —  Kncounti-.k  with  riiK  Knk.my  at  this  Lake; 
THKiK  Manner  of  Attacking  the  Iroquois,  ano  their  Behavior 
IN  Battle. 


SET  out  accordingly  from  the  fall  of  the  Iro- 
([uois  River  ^''  on  the  2d  of  July.'*^"*  All  the  fav- 
ages  fet  to  carrying  their  ( .mocs,  arms,  and 
1)a<rLraq;e  overland,  fomc  half  a  leacirue,  in  order 
to  i)ais  by  the  violence  and  ftrength  of  the  fall, 
which  was  fpeedily  accomplilhed.  Then  they  put  them  all 
in  the  water  again,  two  men  in  each  with  the  baggage ;  and 
they  caufed  one  of  the  men  of  each  canoe  to  go  by  land  fome 
three  leagues,''^''  the  extent  of  the  fall,  which  is  not,  however, 
fo  violent  here  as  at  the  mouth,  except  in  fome  places,  where 
rocks  obllrucl  the  river,  which  is  not  broader  than  three  hun- 
dred or  four  hundred  paces.  After  we  had  paffed  the  fall,  which 
was  attended  with  difficulty,  all  the  favages,  who  had  gone 

by 


^^"^  Tlie  R'ver  of  the  Iroquois,  fo 
called  liy  Chanijjliiin.  was  ionj^j  known 
by  that  name,  fays  Charlevoix,  becaufe 
thefe  Indians  f^enerally  dcfccnded  it,  in 
order  to  make  tlicir  inroads  into  the 
colony.  Fort  Richelieu,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river,  erected  in  1041,  was  named 
after  the  celebrated  Cardinal  the  river 
havinsi  already  taken  his  name.  This 
fort  having  been  demolifhed,  another 
was  l)uilt  i\v  M.  de  Scjrel,  a  French 
officer  in  command,  which  took  his 
name,  as  likewife  did  the  river.  A  fort 
was  built  on  the  fame  river  at  the  pref- 


ent  village  of  Chambly  in  1664,  and 
called  Fort  St.  Louis.  This  wooden 
(Iruflure  was  re])laced  by  another  of 
ftone,  ereded  prior  to  1721,  to  which 
the  name  of  Chambly  was  given,  as 
likewife  by  fome  writers  to  the  river. 
The  river  has  likewife  fometimes  been 
called  the  St.  Johns,  but  the  prevailing 
name  is  the  Richelieu. 

8=*"  Read  the  12th  of  July. 

*3'-*  This  fall  is  now  avoided,  and  the 
navigation  of  the  Richelieu  fecurcd  by 
a  canal  connefting  Chambly  Balin  and 
St.  Johns,  a  dillance  of  about  ten  miles. 


u 


by 


Sictir  de  Champlain, 


21  I 


by  land  over  u  good  path  and  level  country,  although  there 
are  a  great  many  trees,  re-embarked  in  their  canoes.  My 
men  went  alio  by  land ;  but  I  went  in  a  canoe.  The  lavages 
made  a  review  of  all  their  followers,  finding  that  there  were 
twenty-four  canoes,  with  fixty  men.  After  the  review  was 
completed,  we  continued  our  courfe  to  an  illand,^"*  three 
leagues  long,  filled  with  the  finefl:  pines  I  had  ever  feen. 
Mere  they  went  hunting,  and  captured  fome  wild  animals. 
Proceeding  about  three  leagues  farther  on,  we  made  a  halt, 
in  order  to  reft  the  coming  night. 

They  all  at  once  fet  to  work,  fome  to  cut  wood,  and  others 
to  obtain  the  bark  of  trees  for  covering  their  cabins,  for  the 
fake  of  Iheltering  themfelves,  others  to  fell  large  trees  for 
conflruding  a  barricade  on  the  river-bank  around  their  cab- 
ins, which  they  do  fo  quickly  that  in  lefs  than  two  hours  fo 
much  is  accomplilhed  that  five  hundred  of  their  enemies 
would  find  it  very  difficult  to  diflodge  them  without  killing 
large  numbers.  They  make  no  barricade  on  the  river-bank, 
where  their  canoes  are  drawn  up,  in  order  that  they  may  be 
able  to  embark,  if  occafion  requires.  After  they  were  eflab- 
lifhed  in  their  cabins,  they  defpatched  three  canoes,  with  nine 
good  men,  according  to  their  cuflom  in  all  their  encampments, 
to  reconnoitre  for  a  diftance  of  two  or  three  leagues,  to  fje  if 
they  can  perceive  any  thing,  after  which  they  return.  They 
reft  the  entire  night,  depending  upon  the  obfervation  of  thefe 
fcouts,  which  is  a  very  bad  cuftom  among  them ;  for  they 
are  fometimes  while  fleeping  furprifed  by  their  enemies,  who 

ilaughter 

8^0  It  is  not  entirely  certain  what  ifland  But,  talking  all  of  Champlain's  ftatements 
is  here  referred  to.  It  has  been  fup-  into  confideration,  the  logical  inference 
pofed  to  be  the  Ifland  of  St.  Thdr^fe.    would  be  that  it  is  the  I  lie  aux  Noix. 


<  : 


.1 


W 


I  »    I 


> 


{\ 


k 


it 


2  12 


Voydgcs  of 


(lau<;litcr  tlicni  before  they  have  time  to  j^et  up  and  jji-cpaic 
for  defence.  Noticint;  this,  I  renionflrated  with  tiiem  on  the 
millake  they  made,  and  told  them  tliat  they  ouujht  to  keep 
watch,  as  tliey  had  feen  us  do  every  nii;ht,  and  have  men  on 
the  lookcnit,  in  order  to  Hllen  and  fee  uiiether  tliey  perceived 
any  tliiiv^,  and  that  they  Ihould  not  live  in  inch  a  manner  hke 
heads.  They  repHed  that  tliey  could  not  keeji  watch,  and 
that  they  worked  enouu;h  in  the  day-time  in  the  chafe,  fince, 
when  engat;ed  in  wai.they  divide  their  troops  into  three 
parts:  namely,  a  part  for  hunting  feattered  in  feveral  places; 
another  to  conftitute  the  main  body  of  their  army,  which  is 
always  underarms;  and  the  third  to  adl  d.s  (nuinZ-conrcurs,  to 
look  out  along  the  rivers,  and  obferve  whether  they  can  fee 
any  mark  or  lignal  fliowing  where  their  enemies  or  friends 
have  palfed.  This  they  afcertain  by  certain  marks  which  the 
chiefs  of  different  tribes  make  known  to  each  other ;  but,  thefe 
not  continuing  always  the  fame,  they  inform  themfelves  from 
time  to  time  of  changes,  by  which  means  they  afcertain 
whether  they  are  enemies  or  friends  who  have  paffed.  The 
hunters  never  hunt  in  advance  of  the  main  body,  or  avaut- 
coumirs,  fo  as  not  to  excite  alarm  or  produce  diforder,  but  in 
the  rear  and  in  the  direcT;ion  from  which  they  do  not  antici- 
pate their  enemy.  Thus  they  advance  until  they  are  within 
two  or  three  days'  march  of  their  enemies,  •Jien  they  proceed 
by  night  flealthily  and  all  in  a  body,  except  the  van-amriers. 
I3y  day,  they  withdraw  into  the  interior  of  the  woods,  where 
they  reft,  without  ftraying  off,  neither  making  any  noife  nor 
any  fire,  even  for  the  fake  of  cooking,  fo  as  not  to  be  noticed 
in  cafe  their  enemies  fliould  by  accident  pafs  by.  They  make 
no  fire,  except  in  liiioking,  which  amounts  to  almoft  nothing. 

They 


\> 


S/c7/r  dc  CIuiiuplaiiL 


2  I  X 


They  cat  Ixla-cl  Indian  meal,  wliich  thoy  foak  in  water,  when 
it  becomes  a  kind  of  porridge.  'I'hey  provide  tliemfclves  with 
fiich  meal  to  meet  their  wants,  when  they  are  near  their  ene- 
mies, or  when  retreating  after  a  charge,  in  which  cafe  they 
are  not  incHned  to  hunt,  retreating  immediately. 

In  all  their  encami)ments,  they  have  their  Pilotois,  or 
Oflemoy,''^'  a  clals  of  perfons  who  play  the  part  of  foothfayers, 
in  whom  thefe  peoj^le  have  faith.  One  of  thefe  builds  a  cabin, 
furrounds  it  with  fmall  j)ieces  of  wood,  and  covers  it  with  his 
robe  :  after  it  is  built,  he  places  himfelf  infide,  fo  as  not  to  be 
feen  at  all,  when  he  fei/.es  and  fhakes  one  of  the  polls  of  his 
cabin,  muttering  fome  words  between  his  teeth,  by  which  he 
fays  he  invokes  the  devil,  who  appears  to  hini  in  the  form  of  a 
(lone,  and  tells  him  whether  they  will  meet  their  enemies  and 
kill  many  of  them.  This  Pilotois  lies  prortrate  on  the  ground, 
motionlefs,  only  fpeaking  with  the  devil :  on  a  ludden,  he 
rifes  to  his  feet,  talking,  and  tormenting  himfelf  in  fuch  a 
manner  that,  although  naked,  he  is  all  of  a  perfj)iration.  All 
the  peo])le  furround  the  cabin,  feated  on  their  buttocks,  like 
apes.  They  frequently  told  me  that  the  fliaking  of  the  cabin, 
wOiich  I  faw,  proceeded  from  the  devil,  who  made  it  move, 
and  not  the  man  infide,  although  I  could  fee  the  contrary ; 
for,  as  I  have  flated  above,  it  was  the  Pilotois  who  took  one 
of  the  fupports  of  the  cabin,  and  made  it  move  in  this  manner. 

They 

84X  "Tlicfe  two  words  were  ufed   in  Lejeunc,  in  tlie  Relation  of  163^),  j).  13, 

Acidic  to  indicate  tlie  /Vwt,' /(•«/-,  or  for-  informs  us  tliat  tlie  Montai,mais  called 

cerer.     The  word  ///r;A)/.i-," accord in<j  to  their  forcerers  nianiioiijioiickhi ;  and  ac- 

]'.   Hiard,   Rei.   1611,  p.  17,  came  from  cording  to  P.  iJre'beuf,  Rel.  1635.  p.  35, 

the   I5af(|ues,  the  Souriquois   ulini;  the  the   Hurons   defi.ijnated    theirs   by   the 

word  aiitnioin,\s\\\c\\  Lefcarhot  writes  name   arcnuiouaiwy  —  Lwrcniure,    in 

aouimotn,  and  Champlain  ojleinoy.     P.  loco. 


//.: 


i 


ill 


} 


1 

1 1 

i 

M 

^\-  ; 

'I 

i 


214 


Voyages  of 


They  told  me  alfo  that  I  fliould  fee  fire  come  out  from  the 
top,  which  I  did  not  fee  at  all.  Thcfe  rogues  counterfeit  alio 
their  voice,  fo  that  it  is  heavy  and  cle^^r,  and  Ipeak  in  a  lan- 
guage unknown  to  the  other  favages.  And,  when  they  repre- 
fent  it  as  broken,  the  favages  think  that  the  devil  is  fpeaking, 
and  telling  them  what  is  to  happen  in  their  war,  and  what 
they  mufl  do. 

But  all  thefe  fcapegraces,  who  play  the  foothfayer,  out  of  a 
hundred  words,  do  not  fpeak  two  that  are  true,  and  impofe 
upon  thefe  poor  people.  There  are  enough  like  them  in  the 
world,  who  take  food  from  the  mouths  of  the  people  by  their 
imjwflures,  as  thefe  worthies  do.  I  often  remonflrated  with 
the  people,  telling  them  that  all  they  did  was  ilieer  nonfenfe, 
and  that  they  ought  not  to  put  confidence  in  them. 

Now,  after  afcertainingfrom  their  foothfayers  what  is  to  be 
their  fortune,  the  chiefs  take  flicks  ?  foot  long,  and  as  many 
as  there  are  foldiers.  They  take  others,  fomewhat  larger,  to 
indicate  the  chiefs.  Then  they  go  into  the  wood,  and  feek  out 
a  level  place,  five  or  fix  feet  fquare,  where  the  chief,  as  fergeant- 
major,  puts  all  the  fiicks  in  fuch  order  as  feems  to  him  befl. 
Then  he  calls  all  his  companions,  who  come  all  armed ;  and 
he  indicates  to  them  the  rank  and  order  they  are  to  obferve 
in  battle  with  their  enemies.  All  the  favages  watch  carefully 
this  proceeding,  obferving  attentively  the  outline  which  their 
chief  has  made  with  the  flicks.  Then  they  go  away,  and 
f^t  to  placing  themfelves  in  fuch  order  as  the  flicks  were  in, 
when  they  mingle  with  each  other,  and  return  again  to  their 
proper  order,  which  mancjeuvre  they  repeat  two  or  three  times, 
and  at  all  their  encampments,  without  needing  a  fergeant 
to  keep  them  in  the  proper  order,  which  they  are  able  to 

keep 


;  from  tlie 
erfeit  alio 
in  a  lan- 
ley  rcpre- 
fpeaking, 
and  wliat 

•,  out  of  a 
id  impofe 
MTi  in  the 
I  by  their 
ited  with 
nonfenfe, 

t  is  to  be 

as  many 

larger,  to 

'.  feek  out 

fergeant- 

him  befl. 

led;  and 

>  obferve 

carefully 

ich  their 

vay,  and 

were  in, 

to  their 

:e  times, 

fercjeant 

able  to 

keep 


Sieur  de  Champlain. 


215 


keep  accurately  without  any  confufion.  This  is  their  rule 
in  war. 

We  fet  out  on  the  next  day,  continuing  our  courfe  in  the 
river  as  far  as  the  entrance  of  the  lake.  There  are  many 
pretty  iflands  here,  low,  and  containing  very  fine  woods  and 
meadows,  with  abundance  of  fowl  and  fuch  animals  of  the 
chafe  as  flags,  fallow-deer,  fawns,  roe-bucks,  bears,  and  others, 
which  go  from  the  main  land  to  thefe  iflands.  We  captured 
a  large  number  of  thefe  animals.  There  are  alfo  many 
beavers,  not  only  in  this  river,  but  alio  in  numerous  other 
little  ones  that  flow  into  it.  Thefe  regions,  although  they  are 
pleafant,  are  not  inhabited  by  any  lavages,  on  account  of 
their  wars  ;  but  they  withdraw  as  far  as  poffible  from  the  rivers 
into  the  interior,  in  order  not  to  be  fuddenly  furprifed. 

The  next  day  we  entered  the  lake,^^"  which  is  of  great  ex- 
tent, fay  eighty  or  a  hundred  leagues  long,  where  I  faw 
four  fine  iflands,  ten,  twelve,  and  fifteen  leagues  long,  which 
were  formerly  inhabited  by  the  favages,  like  the  River  of  the 
Iroquois ;  but  they  have  been  abandoned  fmce  the  wars  of 
the  favages  with  one  another  prevail.  There  are  alio  many 
rivers  falling  into  the  lake,  bordered  by  many  fine  trees  of  the 
fame  kinds  as  thofe  we  have  in  France,  with  many  vines  finer 
than  any  I  have  feen  in  any  other  place ;  alfo  many  chcftnut- 
trees  on  the  border  of  this  lake,  which  I  had  not  feen  before. 
There  is  alfo  a  great  abundance  of  fifli,  of  many  varieties : 


among 


"■''■^  The  di fiances  are  liere  overftatcd 
by  more  than  threefold,  both  in  refer- 
ence to  the  lake  and  the  iilands.  This 
arofe,  perhaps,  from  the  flow  proi;;refs 
made  in  the  birch  canoes  with  a  party 


of  lixty  undifciplined  nxvages,  a  method     tances. 


of  travelling  to  whicli  Cham|'!ain  was 
unaccuilomed :  and  he  mny  likewife 
have  been  milled  by  the  exaggerations 
of  the  Indians,  or  he  may  have  tailed  to 
comprehend  their  reprelentation  of  dil- 


/ 


i 


It  I 


V   \l 


fc  ^i 


ff 


2l6 


P^oyages  of 


among  otiicrs,  one  called  by  the  favages  of  the  country  Cha- 
tmfarou'^'''''  which  \-aries  in  length,  the  largeft  being,  as  the 
pe{)i:)le  told  me,  eight  or  ten  feet  long.  I  faw  fome  five  feet 
long,  which  were  as  large  as  my  thigh  ;  the  head  being  as  big 
as  my  two  fifls,  with  a  Ihout  two  feet  and  a  half  long,  and  a 
double  row  of  very  lliarp  and  dangerous  teeth.  Its  body  is, 
in  Ibape,  much  like  that  of  a  pike  ;  but  it  is  armed  with  fcales 
fo  ftrong  that  a  poniard  could  not  pierce  them.     Its  color  is 

filver-2:rav. 

8^' Ofthe  meaninjjof  r//rtflw/rt/"<?w.  the  adds,  "It  is  not  dcfcribed  by  ancient 
n;inu'  <;;iven  bv  tlie  Indians  to  tliis  tilli,  authors,  prol)al)ly  tjecaufc  it  is  only 
we  have  no  knowledge.  It  is  now  kntuvn  found  in  the  Lake  of  tlie  Iroquois  ;  "  that 
as  tlie  hony-fcaled  pike,  or  jjar  pike.  Le-  is,  in  Lake  Champlain.  From  which  it 
pidojlcits  ojfcus.  It  is  referred  to  Ijy  may  be  inferred  that  at  that  time  it  had 
feveral  ','arly  writers  after  Champlain.  not  been  difcovered  in  other  waters. 
"I  raw,"M"ays  Sai,'ard,  '"in  the  cabin  By  the  French,  he  fays,  it  is  called /'//(v'.v 
of  a  Montaynais  Indian  a  certain  tiih,  armatns.  This  is  in  evident  allulion  to 
which  fome  call  Chaoufarou,  as  bi<T  as  its  bony  fcales,  in  which  it  is  protetted 
a  lari^e  pike.  It  was  only  an  ordinary  as  in  a  co.it  of  mail, 
h/.ed  one.  for  many  lar<;er ones  are  feen.  It   is  defcribed   by   Dr.   Kay  in  the 

ei^ht.  nine,  and  ten  feet  loni;,  as  is  faid.  Natural  Hillory  of  \ew  'S'ork.  Zo- 
II  had  a  ihout  about  a  foot  and  a  half  oloi^y.  Part  I.  jj  271.  On  I'late  XLIII. 
lon<;,  of  about  the  f.^nie  Ihape  as  that  of  Fijj;.  139,  of  the  fame  work,  the  reader 
the  fnipe,  excejit  that  the  extremity  is  will  obferve  that  the  head  of  the  ti(h 
blunt  and  not  fo  pointed,  and  of  a  lari^e  there  reprefented  llrikin<jly  refemblcs 
hze  in  projjoriion  to  the  bodv.  It  has  a  that  of  tlie  iliaoiifarou  of  Champlain  as 
double  row  of  teeth,  which  are  very  diarp  depicted  on  his  map  of  1612.  The 
and  dangerous  ;  .  .  .  and  the  form  of  drawinsj^  bv  Champlain  is  very  accurate, 
the  body  is  like  that  of  a  jiike,  but  it  is     and    clearly   identifies    the    Oar    I'ike. 

This  lingular  filh  has  been  found  in 
Lake  Champlain,  the  river  St.  Law- 
rence, and  in  the  northern  lakes,  like- 
wife  in  the  .Miiriffiiipi  River,  where  is  to 
lie  found  alfo  a  clofely  related  fpecies 
commonly  called  the  alli<i;ator  i^ar.  In 
the  .Mufeum  of  the  Bolton  .Society  of 
Natural  Hillory  are  feveral  fjiecimens, 
one  of  them  from  St.  John's  River, 
Florida,  four  feet  and  nine  inches  in 
Icnuth.  of  which  the  head  is  feventeen 
and  a  half  inches.  If  the  body  of  thofe 
feen  by  Chaniiilain  was  five  feet,  the 
head  two  and  a  half  feet  would  be   in 


armed  with  very  Itout  and  hard  fcales. 
of  lilver  gray  color,  and  ditlicult  to  be 
jiierced." — Sa^^^ard'  s  H  ijiory  of  Canada, 
l)k.  iii.  p.  765  ;  Lavcrdicrc.  Sajrard's 
wiirk  was  publillied  in  1036.  lie  had 
undoubtedly  I'een  this  liui^ular  tilli  ;  but 
his  defcription  is  fo  nearly  in  the  words 
of  Champlain  as  to  fuggelt  th.it  he  had 
taken  it  from  our  author. 

Creuxius,  in  his  Hillory  of  Canada, 
publidied  at  I'aris  in  1664,  defcribes 
this  filh  nearly  in  the  words  of  Cha'i- 
plain.  wit!i  an  eiii;rav;n<r  fufTicieni.y 
accurate  for  identification,  but  greatly 
wanting 


in    fcientilic    exactnefs.       He     about  the  ufual  proportion. 


Sicicr  de  Ckaniplain. 


■gray. 


217 

filvcr-gray.  The  extremity  of  its  fnout  is  like  that  of  a  fwine. 
This  tilh  makes  war  upon  all  others  in  the  lakes  and  rivers. 
It  alfo  poffefTes  remarkable  dexterity,  as  thefe  people  informed 
me,  which  is  exhibited  in  the  following  manner.  When  it 
wants  to  capture  birds,  it  fwims  in  among  the  rufhes,  or  reeds, 
which  are  found  on  the  banks  of  the  lake  in  feveral  places, 
where  it  puts  its  fnout  out  of  water  and  keeps  perfectly  ftill : 
fo  that,  when  the  birds  come  and  light  on  its  fnout,  fuj^pofmg 
it  to  be  only  the  flump  of  a  tree,  it  adroitly  clofes  it,  which  it 
had  kept  ajar,  and  pulls  the  birds  by  the  feet  down  under 
water.  The  favages  gave  me  the  head  of  one  of  them,  of 
which  they  make  great  account,  faying  that,  when  they  have 
the  headache,  they  bleed  themfelves  with  the  teeth  of  this 
fifli  on  the  fpot  where  they  fuffer  pain,  when  it  fuddenly  paffes 
away. 

Continuing  our  courfe  over  this  lake  on  the  weflern  fide,  I 
noticed,  while  obferving  the  country,  fome  very  high  moun- 
tains on  the  eaflern  fide,  on  the  top  of  which  there  was  fnow.''" 
I  made  inquiry  of  the  favages  whether  thefe  localities  were 
inhabited,  when  they  told  me  that  the  Iroquois  dwelt  there, 
and  that  there  were  beautiful  valleys  in  thefe  places,  with 
plains  produdive  in  grain,  fuch  as  I  had  eaten  in  this  coun- 
try, together  with  many  kinds  of  fruit  without  limit.^^^    They 

faid 

8"  The   Green    Mountain  ransje    in  with    their    refpedive    heis;hts.      The 

T'ermont,<TeneralIy  not  more  than  twenty  Chin,    4.34<S   feet;    The   Nole,    4,044; 

or  Iwenty-tive  miles  diltant.     Champhiin  Camel's  Hump,  4,083  ;  Jay's  Peak,4.oi8; 

".  vs  iTohahly  deceived  as  to  the   fnow  Killinj^ton    Peak,   3,924.      This    region 

o  1  their  fummits  in  July.     What  he  (aw  was  at  an  early  period  called  Irocojia. 
was   doubtleis    white   limeflone,   which  '*'*^  This  is  not  an  inaccurate  defcrip- 

might   naturally   enough   be   taken    for  tion  of  tlie  beautiful  as  well  as  rich  and 

fnow   in    the   al)fence   of    any   jiofitive  fertile  valleys  to  be  found  among  the 

knowledge.     The  names  of  the  fummits  hills  of  Vermont, 
vifiblo  from  the  lake  are  the  following, 

28 


jrr 


I.  1 


m 


i 


i, 


i 


^f 


218 


Voyages  of 


faid  alfo  that  tlic  lake  extended  near  mountains,  fome  twenty- 
five  leagues  diflant  from  us,  as  I  judge.  I  faw,  on  the 
fouth,  other  mountains,  no  lefs  high  than  the  firft,  but  with- 
out any  fnow.'^"*"  The  lavages  told  me  that  thefe  mountains 
were  thickly  fettled,  and  that  it  was  there  we  were  to  find 
their  enemies  ;  but  that  it  was  neceffary  to  pafs  a  fall  in  order 
to  go  there  (which  I  afterwards  faw),  when  we  fliould  enter 
another  lake,  nine  or  ten  leagues  long.  After  reaching  the 
end  of  the  lake,  we  Ihould  have  to  go,  they  faid,  two  leagues 
by  land,  and  pafs  through  a  river  flowing  into  the  fea  on  the 
Norumbegue  coaft,  near  that  of  Florida,^''  whither  it  took 
them  only  two  days  to  go  by  canoe,  as  I  have  fince  afcertained 
from  fome  prifoners  we  captured,  who  gave  me  minute  infor- 
mation in  regard  to  all  they  had  perfonal  knowledge  of, 
through  fome  Algonquin  interpreters,  who  underflood  the 
Iroquois  language. 

Now,  as  we  began  to  approach  within  two  or  three  days' 
journey  of  the  abode  of  their  enemies,  we  advanced  only  at 
night,  rerting  during  the  day.  But  they  did  not  fail  to  prac- 
tise conflantly  their  accuftomed  fuperftitions,  in  order  to  af- 

certpin 


'•"'  On  enterino^  the  lake,  they  faw  the 
Adirondack  Mountains,  which  wouki 
appear  very  nearly  in  tlie  fouth.  The 
points  vifilile  from  the  lake  were  -Mt. 
Marcy.  5,467  feet  high  above  tide-water  ; 
Dix's  Peak,  5,200;  Ni|)ple  Top,  4.900; 
Whiteface,  4.900;  Raven  Hill,  2,100; 
]5ald  Peak.  2,065. — Vide  Palmer'' s  Lake 
Champlain,  p.  12. 

^*'  The  river  here  referred  to  is  the 
Huiifon.  I5y  paffing  from  Lake  Cham- 
jjlain  through  tlie  fmall  flream  that  con- 
nects it  with  Lake  (ieorge,  over  this 
latter  lake  and  a  Ihort  carrying  place, 


the  upper  waters  of  the  Hudfon  are 
reached.  The  coall  of  Norumbegue  and 
that  of  Fk)rida  were  both  indefinite  re- 
gions, not  well  defined  by  geographers 
of  that  day.  Thefe  terms  were  fupplied 
by  Champlain,  and  not  by  liis  inform- 
ants. He  could  not  of  courfe  tell  pre- 
cifely  where  this  unknown  river  reached 
the  lea.  but  naturally  inferred  that  it  was 
on  the  foutiiern  limit  of  Norumbegue, 
which  extended  from  the  Penolifcot  to- 
wards Florida,  whicli  latter  at  that  time 
was  fuppofed  to  extend  from  tlie  Ciulf  of 
Mexico  indeti«itely  to  the  nortii. 


k\ 


r0&^?^^~ 


*5'' 


Sieur  de  Cha7nplain. 


219 


certain  what  was  to  be  the  refill t  of  their  undertakincr  •  and 
they  often  alked  me  if  I  had  had  a  dream,  and  feen  their  en- 
emies, to  which  I  repHed  in  the  negative.  Yet  I  did  not 
ceafe  to  encourage  them,  and  infpire  in  them  hope.  When 
night  came,  we  fet  out  on  the  journey  until  the  next  day, 
when  we  withdrew  into  the  interior  of  the  forefl,  and  fpent 
the  reft  of  the  day  there.  About  ten  or  eleven  o'clock,  after 
taking  a  little  walk  about  our  encampment,  I  retired.  While 
ileeping,  I  dreamed  that  I  faw  our  enemies,  the  Iroquois, 
drowning  in  the  lake  near  a  mountain,  within  fight.  When 
I  expreffed  a  wiih  to  help  them,  our  allies,  the  favages,  told 
me  we  mufl:  let  them  all  die,  and  that  they  were  of  no  impor- 
tance. When  I  awoke,  they  did  not  faU  to  afk  me,  as  ufual, 
if  I  had  had  a  dream.  I  told  them  that  I  had,  in  fad,  had  a 
dream.  This,  upon  being  related,  gave  them  fo  much  confi- 
dence that  they  did  not  doubt  any  longer  that  good  was  to 
happen  to  them. 

When  it  was  evening,  we  embarked  in  our  canoes  to  con- 
tinue our  courfe;  and,  as  we  advanced  very  quietly  and  with- 
out making  any  noife,  we  met  on  the  29th  of  the  month  the 
Iroquois,  about  ten  o'clock  at  evening,  at  the  extremity  of  a 
cape  which  extends  into  the  lake  on  the  weftern  bank.  They 
had  come  to  fight.  We  both  began  to  utter  loud  cries,  all 
getting  their  arms  in  readinefs.  W'e  withdrew  out  on  the 
Vv-ater,  and  the  Iroquois  went  on  fliore,  where  tbcy  drew  up 
all  their  canoes  clofe  to  each  other  and  began  to  fell  trees 
with  poor  axes,  which  they  acquire  in  war  fometimes,  ufmg 
alfo  others  of  ftone.  Thus  they  barricaded  themfelves  very 
well. 

Our  forces  alfo  paffed  the  entire  night,  their  canoes  being 

drawn 


;  / 


w 


;ii 


220 


Voyages  of 


\ 


If  ' 


\\  ■  ^' 


i  ■: 


i'\ 


i 

drawn  up  c\o(q  to  each  otlicr,  and  faftcncd  to  j^oies,  fo  tliat 
they  niiglit  not  get  feparated,  and  tliat  they  miglit  be  all  in 
readincfs  to  fight,  if  occafion  required.  \Vc  were  out  upon 
the  water,  within  arrow  range  of  their  barricades.  When 
they  were  armed  and  in  array,  they  delpatched  two  canoes  by 
themfelves  to  the  enemy  to  inquire  if  they  wiihcd  to  fight,  to 
\vhich  the  latter  replied  that  they  wanted  nothing  elfe:  but 
they  faid  that,  at  prefent,  diere  was  not  much  light,  and  that 
it  would  be  necelTary  to  wait  for  daylight,  fo  as  to  be  able  to 
recognize  each  other;  and  that,  as  Ibon  as  the  fun  role,  they 
would  offer  us  battle.  This  was  agreed  to  by  our  fide. 
Meanwhile,  the  entire  nigh*:  was  fpent  in  dancing  and  finging, 
on  both  fides,  with  endlefs  inllilts  and  other  talk;  as,  how  lit- 
tle courage  we  had,  how  feeble  a  refifiance  we  would  make 
againll  their  arms,  and  that,  when  day  came,  we  fliould  realize 
it  to  our  ruin.  Ours  alfo  were  not  flow  in  retorting,  telling 
them  they  would  fee  fuch  execution  of  arms  as  never  before, 
together  with  an  abundance  of  fuch  talk  as  is  not  unufual  in 
the  fiege  of  a  town.  After  this  finging,  dancing,  and  bandy- 
ing words  on  both  fides  to  the  fill,  when  day  came,  my  com- 
panions and  myfelf  continued  under  cover,  for  fear  that  the 
enemy  would  fee  us.  We  arranged  our  arms  in  the  befl  man- 
ner poffible,  being,  however,  feparated,  each  in  one  of  the  ca- 
noes of  the  favai^e  Montafj^nais.  After  arming  ourfelves  with 
light  armor,  we  each  took  an  arquebufe,  and  went  on  fhore. 
I  faw  the  enemy  go  out  of  their  barricade,  nearly  two  hundred 
in  number,  ftout  and  rugged  in  apj)earance.  They  came  at 
a  flow  pace  towards  us,  with  a  dignity  and  affurance  which 
creatlv  amufed  me,  havin";  three  chiefs  at  their  head.  Our 
men  alfo  advanced  in  the  fame  order,  telling  me  that  thofe 

who 


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■|:-  ■ 


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■  •  'v!^ 

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^^if^S^s^^'- 


:IX?;'^^'**"'^        i':  .'•'  "■'■.--■■^.■'^.I'K'^^: 


■■.a?»-Uv:'».:!'V.i-3i^i^.u  -*.i-.»r-.rt«a||l 


Sieur  de  Chaviplain, 


221 


who  had  three  large  plumes  were  the  chiefs,  and  that  they 
had  only  thefe  three,  and  that  they  could  be  dillinguilhed  by 
thefc  plumes,  which  were  much  larger  than  thofe  of  their 
companions,  and  that  I  fliould  do  what  I  could  to  kill  them. 
I  promifed  to  do  all  in  my  power,  and  faid  that  I  was  very 
forry  they  could  not  underfland  me,  fo  that  I  might  give 
order  and  fliape  to  their  mode  of  attacking  their  enemies,  and 
then  we  Ihould,  without  doubt,  defeat  them  all ;  but  that  this 
could  not  now  be  obviated,  and  that  I  fliould  be  very  glad  to 
ihow  them  my  courage  and  good-will  when  we  fhould  engage 
in  the  fight. 

As  foon  as  we  had  landed,  they  began  to  run  for  fome  two 
hundred  paces  towards  their  enemies,  who  flood  firmly,  not 
having  as  yet  noticed  my  companions,  who  went  into  the 
woods  with  fome  favages.  Our  men  began  to  call  me  with 
loud  cries ;  and,  in  order  to  give  me  a  paffage-way,  they 
opened  in  two  parts,  and  put  me  at  their  head,  where  I 
marched  fome  twenty  paces  in  advance  of  the  refl,  until  I 

was 


■ 


Champlain's  Explanation  of  the  accompanying  ]\Iap. 

Dkfkat  op  the  Irojuois  at  Lake  Ciiami'lai!<. 

A.  The  fort  of  the  Iroquois.  B.  T!ie  enemy.  C.  Canoes  of  tlic  enemy,  nude 
of  oak  l)ark,  each  holding  ten,  fifteen,  or  eighteen  men.  D.  Two  chiefs  wiio 
were  killed.  E.  One  of  the  enemy  wounded  b>  a  muikti-hot  of  Sieur  de  Cliam- 
plain.  F.  Sieur  de  Champlain.  G.  Two  nniflceteers  of  f'ieur  de  Champlain. 
//.  Montagnais,  Ochaltaiguins,  and  Algonquins.  /.  Canoes  of  our  allied  fav- 
ages made  of  birch  bark.     K.  The  woods. 

Notes.  The  letters  //,  /'".  G,  and  A',  are  wanting  but  the  objects  to  wliich  they 
point  are  eafdy  recognized.  The  letter  //  has  been  jilaced  on  the  canoes  of  the 
allies  inllead  of  the  collected  body  of  the  allies  immediately  above  them. 


i' 


V 


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11 


222 


Voyages  of 


was  within  about  thirty  paces  of  the  enemy,  who  at  once 
noticed  me,  and,  halting,  gazed  at  me,  as  I  did  alfo  at  them. 
When  I  faw  them  making  a  move  to  fire  at  us,  I  reftcd 
my  mufkct  againft  my  cheek,  and  aimed  di really  at  one  of 
the  thre(^  chiefs.  With  the  fame  fhot,  two  fell  to  the  ground ; 
and  one  or  their  men  was  fo  wounded  that  he  died  fome  time 
after.  I  had  loaded  my  mufket  with  four  balls.  When  our 
fide  law  this  Ihot  fo  favorable  for  them,  they  began  to  raife 
luch  loud  cries  that  one  could  not  have  heard  it  thunder. 
Meanwhile,  the  arrows  flew  on  both  fides.  The  Iroquois 
were  greatly  afioniflietl  that  two  men  had  been  lb  quickly 
killed,  allliough  they  were  equipped  with  armor  woven  from 
cotton  thread,  and  with  wood  which  was  proof  againft  their 
arrows.  This  caufed  great  alarm  among  them.  As  I 
was  loading  again,  one  of  my  companions  fired  a  fliot  from 
the  woods,  which  allonifhed  them  anew  to  fi.ich  a  dei^ree 
that,  feeing  their  chiefs  dead,  they  lofl  courage,  and  took  to 
flight,  abandoning  their  camp  and  fort,  and  fleeing  into  the 
woods,  whither  I  purfued  them,  killing  flill  more  of  them. 
Our  favagcs  alfo  killed  feveral  of  them,  and  took  ten  or  twelve 
prifoners.  The  remainder  efcaped  with  the  wounded.  Fif- 
teen or  fixteen  were  wounded  on  our  fide  with  arrow-fhots ; 
but  they  were  foon  healed. 

After  gaining  the  victory,  our  men  amufed  themfelves  by 
taking  a  great  quantity  of  Indian  corn  and  fome  meal  from 
their  enemies,  alfo  their  armor,  which  they  had  left  behind 
that  they  might  run  better.  After  feafling  fumptuoufly, 
dancing  aiid  finging,  we  returned  three  hours  after,  with 
the  prifoners.     The  fpot  where  this  attack  took  place  is  in 

latitude 


"^'t; 


Sieur  de  Chmnplaiii. 


223 


>  at  once 

at  them. 

I  refted 
it  one  of 
:  ground ; 
ome  time 
Vhen  our 
1  to  raife 

thunder. 

Iroquois 
)  quickly 
v'en  from 
nfl  their 
As  I 
hot  from 
a  detcree 
I  took  to 

into  the 
of  them. 
3r  twelve 
ed.  Fif. 
)w-fhots ; 

felves  by 
leal  from 
t  behind 
ptuouHy, 
ter,  with 
Lce  is  in 
latitude 


latitude  43"  and  fome  minutes,^^^  and  the  lake  was  called  Lake 
Champlain.^ 


319 


8'»8  This   battle,  or   fkirmifh,  clearly 
took  place  at  Ticonderoga,  or   Chcon- 
ilcroi^a,  as  the  Indians  called  it,  where 
a  cape  juts  out  into   the  lake,  as  de- 
Icribed   by   Champlain.      Tliis    is    the 
logical  inference  to  be  drawn  from  the 
wiiole   narrative.     It  is  to  lie  obferved 
that  the  purpofe  of  the  Indians,  whom 
Champlain  was  accompanying,   was  to 
find    their   enemies,   the   Iroquois,  and 
give  them  batUe.     The  journey,  or  war- 
path, had  been  clearly  marked  out  and 
defcribed  by  the  Indians  to  Champlain, 
as  may  be  leen  in  the  text.     It  led  them 
al(3ng  the  wellern  (hore  of  the  lake  to 
the  outlet  of  Lake  Cieorge,  over  the  fall 
in  the  little  ftream  conneding  the  two 
lakes,  through  Lake  George,  and  thence 
to    the   mountains   beyond,    where   the 
Irociuois   refided.     They  found  the  Iro- 
quois, however,  on  the  lake  :  gave  them 
battle  on  the  little  cape  alluded  to  ;  and 
after  the   victory  and  purfuit  for  fome 
diltance  into  the  foreft,  and  the  gather- 
ing up  of  the  Ipoils,  Champlain  and  his 
allies  commenced  their  journey  home- 
ward.    But  Champlain  fays  he  faw  the 
fall  in  the  tlream  that  connects  the  two 
lakes.     Now  this  little  llream  flows  into 
Lake   Champlain  at  Ticonderoga.  and 
he  would  naturally  have  feen  the  fall,  if 
the   battle   took    place  there,   while   in 
purfuit  of  the  Iroquois  into  the  foreit,  as 
defcrihed  in  the  text.     The  fall  was  in 
the   line  of  the  retreat  of  the  Iroquois 
towards  their  home,  and  is  only  a  mile 
and  three-quarters  from  the  cape  jutting 
out  into  the  lake  at  Ticonderoga.    If  the 
battle  had  occurred  at  any  point  north 
of  Ticonderoua,  he  could  not   have  feen 
the  lall,  as  ihev  retreated   immediately 
alter  the  battle:  if   it  had  taken  place 
fouth  of  that  point,  it  wotild  have  licen 
oif  the  war-path  which  they  had  deter- 
mined to  |)urrue.      We  mult   conclude, 
tiierefore,  that  the  battle  took  place  at 


Ticonderoga,  a  little  north  of  the  ruins 
of  the  old  Fort  Carillon,  diredly  on  the 
fliore  of  the  lake.      If  the  reader  will 
examine  the  plan  of  the  battle  as  given 
by  Champlain's  engraving,   he  will   fee 
that  it  conforms  with  great  exaanefs  to 
the  known  topoi^raphy  of  the  place.    Tlie 
Iroquois,  who  had  their  choice  of  ])of)- 
tions.  are  on  the  north,  in  the  direction 
of  Willow  Point,  wiiere  they  can  moll; 
eahly  retreat,  and  where  Champlain  and 
his  allies  can  be  more  eahly  hemmed  in 
near  the  point  of  the  cape.     The  Iro- 
quois  are   on    lower    ground,  and    we 
know  that  the  furface  tliere  flielves  to 
the  north.     The  well-known  fandy  bot- 
tom of  the  lake  at  this  place  would  fur- 
ni(h  the  means  of  fallening  the  canoes, 
by  forcing  poles  into  it,  a  little  out  from 
the   (hore    during    the   ni^ht,   as   they 
actually  did.     On   Champlain's  map  of 
1632,  this  point  is  referred  to  as  the  lo- 
cation of  die  battle  ;  and  in  his  note  on 
the  map.  No.  65,  he  fays  this  is  the  place 
where    the   Iroquois  were  defeated  by 
Champlain.   All  the  facts  of  the  narrative 
thus  point  to  Ticonderoga,  and  render  it 
inoifinitable  tiiat  this  was  the  fcene  of 
the  firft  of  the  many  recorded  contl'tts 
on  this  memorable  lake.    We  (houkl  not 
have  entered  into  this  dilcuffion  fo  fully, 
had    not   feveral   writers,    not   well   in- 
formed, expreffed  views   wholly  incon- 
filtent  with  known  faCts. 

s^J  The  Indian  name  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain is  CdHiaJcrii^uanhite^  the  lake 
that  is  the  ij;ate  of  'the  country.  —Vide 
Admiiiijtration  of  the  Colonics,  by 
'Itiomas   I'ownall,    176S,  p.    267.     This 

name  was  verv  fvii"'h'-"i'i*-  ^'"^''-'  ^^^  ''^''^^ 
and  valley  <if  Champlain  was  the  "gate," 
or  war-path,  by  which  the  hollile  tribes 
of  Iroquois  approached  their  enemies 
on  the  north  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
'ivVt'  verfa. 


%\ 


t 


s. 


w 


II 


224 


Voyages  of 


ttB^. 


: 


M 


t  i 


if 
r 


i^ 


:l 


.11 , 

•  ft 


■1 


CHArXER   X. 

Return  from  the  Battle,  and  what  took  Place  on  the  Way. 

I'TER  o;oinir  fome  eiiiht  lcaQ:ues,  towards  eveninc: 
they  took  one  of  the  prilbners,  to  whom  they 
made  a  harangue,  enumerating  the  cruelties 
which  he  and  his  men  had  already  practifed 
towards  them  without  any  mercy,  and  that,  in  like 
manner,  he  ought  to  make  up  his  mind  to  receive  as  much. 
They  commanded  him  to  fing,  if  he  had  courage,  which  he 
did ;  but  it  was  a  very  fad  fong. 

Meanwhile,  our  men  kindled  a  fire;  and,  when  it  was  well 
burning,  they  each  took  a  brand,  and  burned  this  poor  crea- 
ture gradually,  fo  as  to  make  him  luffer  greater  torment. 
Sometimes  they  flopped,  and  threw  water  on  his  back.  Then 
they  tore  out  his  nails,  and  applied  fire  to  the  extremities  of 
his  fingers  and  private  member.  Afterwards,  they  flayed  the 
top  of  his  head,  and  had  a  kind  of  gum  poured  all  hot  upon 
it ;  then  they  pierced  his  arms  near  the  wriffs,  and,  drawing  up 
the  fmews  with  flicks,  they  tore  them  out  by  force ;  but,  iee- 
ing  that  they  could  not  get  them,  they  cut  them.  This  poor 
wretch  uttered  terrible  cries,  and  it  excited  my  pity  to  fee  him 
treated  in  this  manner,  and  yet  fhowing  luch  firmness  that 
one  would  have  laid,  at  times,  that  he  luffered  hardly  any 
pain  at  all.  They  urged  me  ftrongiy  to  take  Ibme  fire,  and 
do  as  they  did.  I  rcmonflrated  with  them,  faying  that  we 
practifed  no  fuch  cruelties,  but   killed   them   at  once ;    and 

that 


\  i^ 


Siettr  de  Chmnplam.  225 

that,  if  they  wiflicd  me  to  fire  a  muflvct-fliot  at  him,  I  fliould 
jje  willing  to  do  fo.  They  refufed,  faying  that  he  would  not 
in  that  cafe  fuffer  any  pain.  I  went  away  from  them,  pained 
to  fee  fuch  cruelties  as  they  practifed  upon  his  body.  When 
they  faw  that  I  was  dilpleafed,  they  called  me,  and  told  me  to 
fire  a  mulTvet-ihot  at  him.  This  I  did  without  his  feeing  it, 
and  thus  put  an  end,  by  a  fingle  fliot,  to  all  the  torments  he 
would  have  fuffered,  rather  than  fee  him  tyrannized  over. 
After  his  death,  they  were  not  yet  fatisfied,  but  opened  him, 
and  threw  his  entrails  into  the  lake.  Then  they  cut  off  his 
head,  arms,  and  legs,  which  they  fcattered  in  different  direc- 
tions; keeping  the  fcalp  which  they  had  flayed  off,  as  they 
had  done  in  the  cafe  of  all  the  reft  whom  they  had  killed  in 
the  contefl.  They  were  guilty  alfo  of  another  monftrofity  in 
taking  his  heart,  cutting  it  into  feveral  pieces,  and  giving  it  to 
a  brother  of  his  to  eat,  as  alfo  to  others  of  his  companions,  who 
were  prifoners  :  they  took  it  into  their  mouths,  but  would  not 
fwallow  it.  Some  Algonquin  lavages,  who  were  guardir.g 
them,  made  fome  of  them  fpit  it  out,  when  they  threw  it  into 
the  water.  This  is  the  manner  in  which  thefe  people  behave 
towards  thole  whom  they  capture  in  war,  for  whom  it  would  be 
better  to  die  fighting,  or  to  kill  themfelves  on  the  fpur  of  the 
moment,  as  many  do,  rather  than  fall  into  the  hands  of  their 
enemies.  After  this  execution,  we  let  out  on  our  return  with 
the  reft  of  the  prifoners,  who  kept  finging  as  they  went  along, 
with  no  better  hopes  for  the  future  than  he  had  had  who  was 
lb  wretchedly  treated. 

Having  arrived  at  the  falls  of  the  Iroquois,  the   Algon- 
quins  returned  to  their  own  country;    fo  alio  the  Ochate- 

guins, 
29 


I* 


p  ), 


i  I 


\ 


\\ 


'I'' 


'^lit 


:\M 


hi 


:\l 


226 


Voyages  of 


guins, ■''''"'  with  a  part  of  the  prifoners:  well  fatisficd  witli  the 
rcfults  of  the  war,  and  that  I  had  accompanied  them  fo  readily. 
We  feparated  accordingly  with  loud  proteflations  of  mutual 
friendfhip ;  and  they  alked  me  whether  I  would  not  like  to 
go  into  their  country,  to  affift  them  with  continued  fraternal 
relations ;  and  I  promifed  that  I  would  do  fo. 

I  returned  with  the  Montagnais.  After  informing  myfelf 
from  the  prifoners  in  regard  to  their  country,  and  of  its 
probable  extent,  we  ]3acked  up  the  baggage  for  the  return, 
which  was  accomplilhed  with  fuch  defjjatch  that  we  went 
every  day  in  their  canoes  twenty-five  or  thirty  leagues,  which 
was  their  ufual  rate  of  travelling.  When  we  arrived  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  Iroquois,  fome  of  the  favages  dreamed 
that  their  enemies  were  purfuing  them.  This  dream  led 
them  to  move  their  camp  forthwith,  although  the  night 
was  very  inclem  at  on  account  of  the  wind  and  rain;  and 
they  went  and  paffed  the  remainder  of  the  night,  from  fear 
of  their  enemies,  amid  high  reeds  on  Lake  St.  Peter.  Two 
days  after,  we  arrived  at  our  fettlement,  where  I  gave  them 
fome  bread  and  peas ;  alfo  fome  beads,  which  they  afked  me 
for,  in  order  to  ornament  the  heads  of  their  enemies,  for  the 
purpofe  of  merry-making  upon  their  return.  The  next  day,  I 
went  with  them  in  their  canoes  as  far  as  Tadouffac,  in  order 
to  witnefs  their  ceremonies.     On  approaching  the  fliore,  they 

each 


^''^  The  Indian  allies  on  this  expedi- 
tion were  the  Algonquins  (.i /t^otei/ie- 
i]itiif<).  the  Murons  {Oiliatequiits),  and 
tlie  Monlaj^nais  (.lA;;/A/j,' ;/</.*).  The  two 
tormcr,  on  their  way  to  Quebec,  had 
met  Chaniplain  near  the  river  St.  Anne, 
and  joined   him   and    tlie    Montaj^nais, 


who  belonged  in  the  neighborhood  of 
TadoulTac,  or  farther  call.  —  Vide  a/ttea, 
p.  202.  Tliey  now,  at  the  falls  near 
the  liafin  of  Chambly,  departed  to  their 
homes,  perliaps  on  the  Ottawa  River  and 
the  Ihores  of  Lake  Huron. 


I* 


Szetir  de  Champlain.  227 

each  took  a  ftick,  to  the  end  of  which  they  hung  the  heads  of 
their  enemies,  who  had  been  killed,  together  with  fome  beads, 
all  of  them  fmging.  When  they  were  through  with  this,  the 
women  undrelTed  themfelves,  fo  as  to  be  in  a  flate  of  entire 
nudity,  when  they  jumped  into  the  water,  and  Iwam  to  the 
prows  of  the  canoes  to  take  the  heads  of  their  enemies,  which 
were  on  the  ends  of  long  poles  before  their  boats :  then  they 
hung  them  about  their  necks,  as  if  it  had  been  fome  coftly 
chain,  fmging  and  dancing  meanwhile.  Some  days  after,  they 
prefented  me  with  one  of  thefe  heads,  as  if  it  were  fomething 
very  precious ;  and  alfo  with  a  pair  of  arms  taken  from  their 
enemies,  to  keep  and  fliow  to  the  king.  This,  for  the  fake  of 
gratifying  them,  I  promifed  to  do. 

After  fome  days,  I  went  to  Quebec,  whither  fome  Algon- 
quin favages  came,  expreffmg  their  regret  at  not  being  pref- 
ent  at  the  defeat  of  their  enemies,  and  prefenting  me  with 
fome  furs,  in  confideration  of  my  having  gone  there  and 
affifled  their  friends. 

Some  days  after  they  had  fet  out  for  their  country,  diflant 

about  a  hundred  and  twenty  leagues  from  our  fettlement,  I 

went  to  Tadouffac  to  fee  whether  Pont  Grave  had  return>_J 

from  Gafpe,  whither  he  had  gone.     He  did  not  arrive  until 

the  next  day,  when  he  told  me  that  he  had  decided  to  return 

to  France.     We  concluded  to  leave  an  upright  man.  Captain 

Pierre  Chavin  of  Dieppe,  to  command  at  Quebec,  until  Sieur 

de  Monts  fliould  arrange  matters  there. 

CHAPTER  XI. 


I,' 


) 


II 


■^ 

IB4 

lif 

Ta     ■  '  I'll 

i  : 

1   Hi           '■'. 

T-   :.                                ft 

', 

^ 


kl .. 


il 


}l 


M ' 


J 


228  Voyages  of 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Rktuun  to  France,  and  what  occurkkd  up  to  the  Time  of 

Kr:-EMHARKATION. 

FTER  forming  this  rcfolution,  we  went  to  Que- 
bec to  eflablifh  him  in  authority,  and  leave  him 
every  thing  requifite  and  necelTary  for  the  fettle- 
ment,  together  with  fifteen  men.  Every  thing 
being  arranged,  we  fet  out  on  the  firft  day  of 
September  ^'^  for  Tadouffac,  in  order  to  fit  out  our  veflel  for 
returnimx  to  France. 

We  let  out  accordingly  from  the  latter  place  on  the  5th 
of  the  month,  and  on  the  8th  anchored  at  Ifle  Percee.  On 
Thurlclay  the  loth,  we  fet  out  from  there,  and  on  the  i8th, 
the  Tuefday  following,  we  arrived  at  the  Grand  Bank.  On 
the  2d  of  October,  we  got  foundings.  On  the  8th,  we  an- 
chored at  Conquet"'^-  in  Lower  Brittany.  On  Saturday  the 
loth,  we  fet  out  from  there,  arriving  at  Honfleur  on  the  13th. 
After  difembarking,  I  did  not  wait  long  before  taking  poft 
to  go  to  Sieur  de  Monts,  who  was  then  at  Fontainebleau, 
where  His  Majefty  was.  Here  I  reported  to  him  in  detail  all 
that  had  tranfpired  in  regard  to  the  winter  quarters  and  our 
new  explorations,  and  my  hopes  for  the  future  in  view  of  the 
promifes  of  the  favages  called  Ochateguins,  who  are  good 
Iroquois.^^^     The  other  Iroquois,  their  enemies,  dwell  more 

to 

'5^  rieptemlier,  1609.  86a  TJ^g  Ochatetjuins,  called  by  the 

""'-  A  fmall  feaport   town  in   the  de-     French   Hurons,  were  a  branch  of  the 

]iartment    of    Finitlerre,    twelve    miles     Iroquois.    Their  real  name  was  Yendots. 

well  (jt  IJrell.  They  were  at  tliis  time  allied  with  the 

AhTonquins, 


kl'-\ 


■I  ■  ^ 


Sicttr  de  Clianiplain. 


229 

to  the  fouth.  The  language  of  the  former  docs  not  differ 
miicl^  from  that  of  the  people  recently  difcovered  and  hitherto 
unknown  to  us,  which  they  underfland  when  fpoken. 

I  at  once  waited  upon  His  Majeay.  and  gaxe  him  an  ac- 
count of  my  voyage,  which  afforded  him  plealVrc  and  fatif- 
faction.  I  had  a  girdle  made  of  porcupine  quills,  \ery  well 
worked,  after  the  manner  of  the  country  where  it  was  made, 
and  which  His  Majeffy  thought  very  j^retty.  1  had  alfo  two 
little  birds,  of  the  fize  of  blackbirds  and  of  a  carnation 
color ;  ''•^*  alfo,  the  head  of  a  fiHi  cautrht  in  the  ureat  lake  of 
the  Iroquois,  having  a  very  long  fnout  and  two  or  three 
rows  of  very  fliarp  teeth.  A  reprefentation  of  this  fifli  may 
be  found  on  the  great  lake,  on  my  geographical  map.'""^ 

After  I  had  concluded  my  interview  with  His  Majefly, 
Sieur  de  Monts  determined  to  go  to  Rouen  to  meet  his  affo- 
ciates,  the  Sieurs  Collier  and  Le  Gendre,  merchants  of  Rouen, 
to  confider  what  fliould  be  done  the  coming  year.  They  re- 
folved  to  continue  the  fettlement,  and  finifli  the  explorations 
up  the  great  river  St.  Lawrence,  in  accordance  with  the  prom- 
ifes  of  the  Ochateguins,  made  on  condition  that  we  fhould 
affiff  them  in  tiieir  wars,  as  I  had  given  them  to  underfland. 

Pont  Grave  was  appointed  to  go  to  Tadouflac,  not  only  for 
traffic,  but  to  engage  in  any  thing  elfe  that  might  realize 
means  for  defra\'ing  the  expenfes. 

Sieur  Lucas  Le  Gendre,  of  Rouen,  one  of  the  partners,  was 
ordered  to  fee  to  the  purchafe  of  mcrchandife  and  fupplics, 

the 

Alijonqain.s,  in  a  deadly  war  with  their  ^^^  Tiie    fcarlet    tana<;er,     Pynjiii^n 

Iroquois   couliiis,  the   Five   Nations. —  rubra,   of  a   fcarlet   color,    with    black 

Vide  Gallatin  s  Synopjiss  Tranfaclions  winys  and  tail.     It  ranges  from  Texas 

of  Am.  Antiq.  Society,  Cambritlge,  183O,  to   Lake   Huron. 

\o\.  11.  p.  69,  et pajjiin.  '^'''^  I'idcantia,^.  2i((;  and  map.  lOu. 


i 


til 


m 


I- 


(t 


I' 

\i 

[  5 

> 

\f 

If:^ 

'i 

f 


IM 


230 


Voyages  of  Chaviplain. 


the  repair  of  the  veffels,  obtaining  crews,  and  other  things 
nccelTary  for  the  voyage. 

After  thele  matters  were  arranged,  Sieiir  de  Monts  returned 
to  Paris,  I  accompanying  him,  where  I  flayed  until  the  end 
of  February.  During  this  time,  Sieur  de  Monts  endeavored 
to  obtain  a  new  commiffion  for  trading  in  the  newly  difcovercd 
regions,  and  where  no  one  had  traded  before.  This  he  was 
unable  to  accomplilh,  although  his  requefts  and  propofals  were 
jurt  and  rcafonable. 

But,  finding  that  there  was  no  hope  of  obtaining  this  com- 
miffion, he  did  not  ceafe  to  profecute  his  plan,  froni  his  defire 
that  every  thing  might  turn  out  to  the  profit  and  honor  of 
France. 

During  this  time,  Sieur  de  Monts  did  not  exprefs  to  me 
his  pleafure  in  regard  to  me  perfonally,  until  I  told  him  it  had 
been  reported  to  me  that  he  did  not  wilh  to  have  me  winter 
in  Canada,  which,  however,  was  not  true,  for  he  referred  the 
whole  matter  to  my  pleafure. 

I  provided  myfelf  with  whatever  was  defirable  and  necefTary 
for  fpending  the  winter  at  our  lettlement  in  Quebec.  For 
this  purpofe  I  fct  out  from  Paris  the  lafl:  day  of  February  fol- 
lowing,''^ and  proceeded  to  Honfleur,  where  the  embarkation 
was  to  be  made.  I  went  by  way  of  Rouen,  where  I  flayed 
two  days.  Thence  I  went  to  Honfleur,  where  I  found  Pont 
Grave  and  Le  Gendre,  who  told  me  they  had  embarked  what 
was  neceffary  for  the  fettlement.  I  was  very  glad  to  find  that 
we  were  ready  to  fet  fail,  but  uncertain  whether  the  fupplies 
were  good  and  adequate  for  our  fojourn  and  for  fpending  the 
winter. 

^'•'^  Anno  Domini  1610. 


.   I 


ings 


SECOND      VOYAGE 

OF 

SIEUR   DE   CIIAMPLAIN 
TO     NEW     FRANCE,     IN     THE     YEAR     1610. 


CHAPTER   I. 

Departurk   from    Fkan-ce  to   return  to  New  France,  and  Occur- 
rences UNTIL  OUR  Arrival  at  the  Settlement. 

HE  weather  having  become  favorable,  I  em- 
barked at  Honfleur  with  a  number  of  artifans 
on  the  7th  of  the  month  of  ]\Iarch5'^  But,  en- 
countering bad  weather  in  the  Channel,  we  were 
obliged  to  put  in  on  the  Englifli  coafl  at  a 
place  called  Porlan,'*'^^  in  the  roadftead  of  which  we  flayed 
fome  days,  when  we  weighed  anchor  for  the  Ifle  d'Huy,'^'^ 
near  the  Enorliih  coafl,  fmce  we  found  the  roadflead  of  Porlan 

O 

very 

86T  In  the  title  above,  Champ]ain  calls  sbs  Portland  in  Dorfetfhire,  Enijlancl. 

this  his  Second  Voyage,  by  whic'    he  "^^  Ijlc  d'Huv.     Tiiis  plainly  refers 

means  doubtlefs  to  fay  that  this  is  the  .0  the   Mle  of   Wight.      On   Orteliuss 

fecond  voyajre  which  he  had  undertaken  carte  of  .603.  it  is  lijclled  V  igt :  and  the 

as       nitenant.     The    firft    an',    fecond  orthography,  obtained  probalilythrouuli 

vova<^es,  of  1603  and  of  1604,  were  not  the  ear  and  not  the  eye.   mi-ht  ealily 

made  under  his  diredion.  have  been  miaaken  by  Ciiamplam. 


\. 


\  ■■ 


li 


\    ! 


il- 


II 


I   , 


\ 

\ 

111 

{. 

1 

■'      \ 

Voyages  of 


very  bad.  When  near  tliis  ifland,  fo  denfe  a  fog  arofc,  that 
we  were  obliged  to  put  in  at  the  Hi)uguc.'"'" 

Ever  fince  tlie  departure  from  Honfleur,  I  liad  been 
aftlii^ted  with  a  very  fevere  iHnefs,  which  took  away  my  hopes 
of  being  able  to  make  the  voyage ;  fo  tliat  I  embarked  in  a 
Ijoat  to  return  to  Havre  in  France,  to  be  treated  there,  being 
\-ery  ill  on  board  the  velTel.  My  expectation  was,  on  recover- 
ing my  health,  to  em.bark  again  in  another  velTel,  which  had 
not  yet  left  Honfleur,  in  which  I)es  Marais,  fon-in-law  of 
Pont  Grave,  was  to  embark  ;  but  I  had  myfelf  carried,  ftill 
very  ill,  to  Honileur,  where  the  velTel  on  which  I  had  fet  out 
])ut  in  on  the  15th  of  March,  for  Ibme  ballafi;,  which  it  needed 
in  order  to  be  properly  trimmed.  Here  it  rciiaincd  until 
the  8th  of  April.  During  this  time,  I  recovered  in  a  great 
degree ;  and,  though  flill  feeble  and  weak,  I  neverthelefs  em- 
barked a^ain. 

We  fet  out  anew  on  the  i8th  of  April,  arriving  at  the 
Grand  I>ank  on  the  19th,  and  fighting  the  Iflands  of  St.  Pierre 
on  the  2  2d.'"'''  When  off  Menthane,  we  met  a  veffel  from  St. 
Malo,  on  which  was  a  young  man,  who,  while  drinking  to  the 
liealth  of  Pont  Grave,  loft  control  of  himfelf  and  was  thrown 
into  the  fea  by  the,  motion  of  the  veffel  and  drowned,  it  being 
impoffible  to  render  him  affiffance  on  account  of  the  violence 
of  the  wind. 

On  the  26th  of  the  month,  we  arrived  at  Tadouffac,  where 

there 

^'''"  La  Hotii^iic.    Tliere  are  two  I'mall  ^'''^  Comparing;  this  flatement  witli  the 

illands  laid  down  on  the  carte  of  Orte-  context,  it  will  he  clear  that  the  palTas^e 

lius.  1603.  under  the  name  /.fs  Houi:;m--  fliouid  read  the  Xth,  and  not  the  iSth  of 

rt/zr.  and  a  hamlet  neirhycalled  MoiiL^o,  April.      The   "Illands    of   St.    ricrre," 

which  is  that,  doubllel's,  to  which  Cham-  Ijics  S.  Picrn\  includes   the    llland   of 

phiin  here  refers.  St.  Peter  and  the  duller  furrountling  it. 


Sic  It}'  de  Chaviplain, 


233 


ofe,  that 

id    been 
y  hopes 
vcd  in  a 
e,  being 
recover- 
ich  liad 
i-law  of 
ied,  aill 
fet  out 
needed 
d  until 
1  great 
Lifs  em- 

at  the 

Pierre 
om  St. 

to  the 
hrown 

beincf 
olcnce 

wliere 
there 

with  the 

]jalTa<(e 

r<Sth  of 
Pierre," 
land  of 
iding  it. 


there  were  veffels  which  had  arrived  on  the  i8th,  a  thing 
whicli  had  not  been  fcen  for  more  than  fixty  years,  as  the 
old  mariners  faid  who  fail  regularly  to  this  country.'"'-  This 
was  owing  to  the  niild  winter  and  the  fmall  amount  of  ice, 
which  did  not  prevent  the  entrance  of  thelo  velTels.  We 
learned  from  a  young  nobleman,  named  Sieur  du  Pare,  who 
had  fluent  the  winter  at  our  fettlement,  that  all  his  compan- 
ions were  in  good  health,  only  a  few  having  been  ill,  and 
they  but  flightly.  He  alfo  informed  us  that  tliere  had  been 
fcarcely  any  winter,  and  that  they  had  ufually  had  frclh  nieat 
the  entire  feafon,  and  that  their  hardefl  talk  had  been  to 
keep  up  good  cheer. 

This  winter  fhows  how  thofe  undertakinor  in  future  fuch 
enterprises  ought  to  proceed,  it  being  very  difficult  to  make 
a  new  fettlement  without  labor;  and  without  encountcrintr 
adverle  fortune  the  firft  year,  as  has  been  the  cafe  in  all  our 
firfl  fettlements.  But,  in  fad,  by  avoiding  lalt  food  and  ufmg 
frefli  meat,  the  health  is  as  good  here  as  in  France. 

The  favages  had  been  waiting  from  day  to  day  for  us  to  go 
to  the  war  with  them.  When  they  learned  that  Pont  Grave 
and  I  had  arrived  together,  they  rejoiced  greatly,  and  came  to 
fpeak  with  us. 

I  went  on  fhore  to  affure  them  that  we  would  go  with 
them,  in  conformity  with  the  promifes  they  had  made  me, 
namely,  that  upon  our  return  from  the  war  they  would  fliow 
me  the  Trois  Rivieres,  and  take  me  to  a  Tea  fo  large  that 

the 

8«-  M.  Ferland  infers  from  this  ftate-  Roberval  in  1549,10  extend  their  fifliing 

ment  that  the  Hafqiies,  Normans,  and  and  fur-trading  voyages  as  far  as  Ta- 

15retons  had  been  accuilomed  for  the  dowi'^-^c.  —  lu/e Con rsiVHiJt.du Canada, 

lall  fixty  years,  from  the  lalt  voyage  of  as  cited  by  Laverdiere. 

30 


M 


w 


4 


f  ' 


Il: 


I 


i     » 

If    ' 


1- 


.1 


':.) 


fi 


234 


Voyages  of 


the  ciul  of  it  cannot  be  fecn,  whence  we  (hould  return  by 
way  of  the  Sa<;uenay  to  Tadouirac.  I  alked  them  if  they 
Hill  had  this  intention,  to  which  they  replied  that  they  had, 
but  that  it  could  not  be  carried  out  jjefore  tlie  next  year, 
which  pleall'd  me.  Hut  I  had  promifed  the  Algonc|uins  and 
Ochateguins  that  I  would  arfill  them  alio  in  their  wars,  they 
having  promifed  to  ihow  me  their  country,  the  great  lake, 
Ibme  copper  mines,  and  other  things,  which  they  had  indi- 
cated to  me.  I  accordingly  had  two  firings  to  my  bow,  ib 
that,  in  cafe  one  (hould  break,  the  other  might  hold. 

On  the  28th  of  the  month,  I  fet  out  from  Tadouffac  for 
Quebec,  where  I  found  Captain  Pierre,''"'  who  commanded 
there,  and  all  his  companions  in  good  health.  There  was 
alfo  a  favage  captain  with  them,  named  Batifcan,  with  fome 
of  his  companions,  who  were  awaiting  us,  and  who  were 
greatly  pleafed  at  my  arrival,  iingiiig  and  dancing  tlie  entire 
evening.  I  provided  a  banquet  for  them,  which  gratified 
them  very  much.  They  had  a  good  meal,  for  which  they 
were  very  thankful,  and  invited  me  with  '^^vo.w  others  to  an 
entertainment  of  theirs,  not  a  fmall  mark  of  refpe<'"t  with  them. 
We  each  one  carried  a  porringer,  according  to  cullom,  and 
brought  it  home  full  of  meat,  which  we  gave  to  whomfoever 
we  pleafed. 

Some  da^'s  after  I  had  fet  out  from  Tadouffac,  the  Mon- 
tagnais  arrived  at  Quebec,  to  the  number  of  fixty  able-bodied 
men,  en  route  for  the  war.  They  tarried  here  fome  days, 
enjoying  themfelvcs,  and  not  omitting  to  ply  me  frequently 
with  queflions,  to  affure  themfelves  that  I  would  not  fail  in 

my 

8'^  Captain  Pierre  Chavin,  of  Dieppe.     Vide  antea,  p.  227. 


f 


'.ziSSfflSHBS^'' 


Sicur  dc  Chaviplain, 


235 


my  proniifcs  to  them.  I  alTurud  tlicm,  and  again  made 
proniifcs  to  thcni,  alking  tlicm  if  tlicy  had  found  nic  brcai<ing 
my  word  in  the  pafl.  They  were  greatly  pleafed  wiien  I 
renewed  my  promilcs  to  tliem. 

They  faid  to  me :  "  Here  are  numerous  Bafques  and  Mifti- 
goches"  (this  is  the  name  they  give  to  the  Normans  and 
people  of  St.  Malo),  "  who  fay  they  will  go  to  the  war  with 
us.  What  do  you  think  of  it.?  Do  they  fpeak  the  truth.?" 
I  aniwered  no,  and  that  I  knew  very  well  what  they  really 
meant;  that  they  faid  this  only  to  gi  t  porfcffion  of  their  com- 
modities. They  replied  to  me  :  "  You  have  fpoken  the  truth. 
T  hey  are  womc.  ,  and  want  to  make  war  only  upon  our  beavers." 
They  went  on  talking  Hill  farther  in  a  facetious  mood,  and  in 
regard  to  the  manner  and  order  of  going  to  the  war. 

They  determined  to  fet  out,  and  await  me  at  the  Trois 

Rivieres,  thirty  leagues  above  Quebec,  where  I  had  promifed 

to   join   them,    together    with    four    barques    loaded   with 

merchandife,  in  order  to  trafific  in  peltries,  among  others  with 

the  Ochateguins,  who  were  to  await  me  at  the  mouth  of  the 

river  of  the  Iroquois,  as  they  had  promifed  the  year  before, 

and  to  bring  the  e  as  many  as  four  hundred  men  to  go  to 

the  war. 

CHAPTER  II. 


i' 


h: 


.! 


236 


Voyages  of 


CHAPTER   II. 

Di:rARTURE   FROM    OUKHKC   TO   ASSIST  OUR   ALLIED   SAVAGES   IX  THEIR   VVaR 
ACiAINST    THE     IroQIOIS,    THEIR    KxEMIES  ;     AND    AlL    THAT    TRANSPIRED 

UNTIL  OUR  Return  to  the  Settlement. 


1! 


1 1! 
...  ■'  ^' 

\ 


!  h 


if 


SET  out  from  Quebec  on  the  14th  of  June,  to 
meet  the  Montagnais,  Algonqulns,  and  Ochate- 
guins,  who  were  to  be  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
of  the  Iroquois.  Wlien  1  was  eight  leagues 
from  Quebec,  I  met  a  canoe,  containing:  two 
favages,  one  an  Algonquin,  and  the  other  ?  Montagnais, 
who  entreated  me  to  advance  as  rapidly  as  poffible,  faying 
that  the  Algonquins  and  Ochateguins  would  in  two  days  be 
at  the  rendezvous,  to  the  number  of  two  hundred,  with  two 
hundred  others  to  come  a  little  later,  together  with  Yroquet, 
one  of  their  chiefs.  They  afked  me  if  I  was  fatisfied  with 
the  comincj  of  thefe  favatres.  I  told  them  I  could  not  be 
difpleafed  at  it,  hnce  they  had  kept  their  word.  They  came 
on  board  my  barque,  where  I  gave  them  a  good  entertain- 
ment. Shortly  after  conferring  with  them  about  many 
matters  concerning  tlieir  wars,  the  Algonquin  favage,  one  of 
their  chiefs,  drew  from  a  fack  a  piece  of  copper  a  foot  long, 
which  he  ga\e  me.  This  was  very  handfome  and  quite 
pure.  He  gave  me  to  underfland  that  there  were  large 
cjuantitics  where  he  had  taken  this,  which  was  on  the  bank 
of  a  river,  near  a  great  lake.  He  faid  that  they  gathered  it 
in  lumps,  and,  having  melted  it,  fpread  it  in  fheets,  fmoothing 

it 


iL 


■I. 


THEIR  War 

TRANSPIRED 


f  June,  to 
d  Ochate- 

the  river 
t  leagues 
ning  two 
)ntagnais, 
le,  faying 

days  be 
with  two 
Yroquet, 
ified  with 
d  not  be 
ley  came 
;ntertain- 
it    many 
3,  one  of 
Dot  long, 
id    quite 
re    larqfe 
he  bank 
he  red  it 
loothing 
it 


Sietir  de  CJiaviplam. 


'^11 


it  with  floncs. 
fmall  value.'"^ 


I  was  very  glad  of  this  profent,  although  c.f 


^''"'  This  teflimnny  of  the  Al'^onquin 
chief  is  iiiterellins;,  and  hillorically  im- 
portant. We  know  of  no  earlier  refer- 
ence to  the  art  of  meUinj^  and  malleatinij 
copper  in  anyof  tlie  reports  of  the  navi- 
gators to  our  northern  coall.  That  llie 
natives  iJolVelVcd  tliis  art  is  phiceti  beyond 
qwellion  by  this  ])aiTage,  as  well  as  by 
the  recent  difcovcry  of  ro|)per  imple- 
ments in  Wifconlin,  bearing  the  marks 
of  meclianical  fufion  and  malleation. 
The  fpec'imens  of  copper  in  the  pol'fef- 
iion  of  the  natives  on  the  coalt  of  New 
England,  as  referred  to  by  Hrereton  and 
Archer,  can  well  be  accounted  for  with- 
out fnp])oling  them  to  be  of  native  manu- 
facture, thougli  they  may  have  been  fo. 
The  Bafcpies,  Bretons,  Englifli,  and  l*or- 
tuguefe  liad  been  annually  on  our  nor- 
thern coalts  for  filhing  and  fur-trading 
for  more  than  a  century,  and  had  dif- 
tributed  a  valt  (piantity  of  articles  for 
favage  ornament  and  ufe  ;  and  it  would, 
therefore,  be  difficult  to  prove  that  the 
copper  chains  and  collars  and  other 
trinkets  mentioned  I)y  ISrereton  and 
Archer  were  not  derived  from  this 
fource.  But  the  teflimony  of  the  early 
navigators  in  the  lefs  frequented  region 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  is  not  open  to  this 
interpretation.  When  Cartier  advanced 
up  the  (lulf  of  Lawrence  in  1535.  the 
favages  pointed  out  the  region  of  the 
Saguenav.  which  they  informed  him 
was  inhal)ited.  and  tli  it  from  tlience 
came  the  red  copper  which  they  called 
cai::,nct<{dze. 

"  Et  par  les  fauuaiges  que  anions, 
nous  a  eik'  dicl  que  celloit  le  com.mence- 
ment  du  Saguenay  &  terre  habitable.  Et 
(jue  de  la  ve  noit  le  cuyure  rouge  qu'ilz 
appellet  caignetdaze." — Ihicf  Rtuit,  par 
Jacques  Cartier,  1545.  D'Avezac  ed.,  p. 
y.      Vide,  idem,  p.  34. 

When  Cartier  was  at     I  fie   Coudres, 


Arriving 

fay  fifty  miles  l)e]ow  Oueliec,  on  his 
return,  the  Indians  from  "the  Saguenay 
came  on  board  his  (hip,  and  made  cer- 
tain |irefents  to  their  cliief.  Donnacona, 
wliom  Cartier  had  captured,  and  was 
taking  home  with  liiin  to  Tram  •.•. 
Among  thefe  gifts,  they  ga\e  him  a 
great  knife  of  red  co[)per.  which  came 
frcr>i  the  Saguenay.  The  words  of 
Cai  uer  are  as  follows  :  — 

"  Donerent  audic'l  Donnacona  frois 
paccpietz  de  peaulx  de  byeures  >\:  loups 
marins  auec  vng  grad  coulleau  de  cuy- 
ure rouge,  qui  vient  du  Saguenay  & 
autres  chofes."  —  Idem,  p.  44. 

'{"his  \-oyage  of  Cartier.  made  in  1535, 
was  the  earliell  vilit  by  any  navigator 
on  record  to  this  region.  It  was  ei^ditv 
years  b  '"  re  tiie  Recollects  or  any  nt'ier 
miffionaiies  had  approached  the  Culidf 
St.  Lawrence.  There  was,  therefore. 
no  intercourfe  previous  to  tliis  that 
would  be  likely  to  furnifli  the  natives 
with  European  utenfds  of  any  kind,  jjar- 
ticularly  knives  of  red  copper.  It  is  ini- 
jjoffible  to  fuppofe  tliat  this  knife,  ^i.t<^\\ 
by  Cartier,  and  declared  i)y  the  natives 
to  have  come  from  the  Saguenay.  a 
term  then  covering  an  indefinite  region 
llretching  we  know  not  how  far  to  the 
north  and  well,  could  be  otherwife  tiian 
of  Indian  manufacture.  In  tlie  te.xt, 
Cham])lain  dilfinctly  llates  on  the  telti- 
mony  of  an  Algonquin  chief  that  it  was 
the  cuUom  of  the  Indians  to  meh  copper 
for  the  i^urpofe  of  forming  it  in!o 
(heets.  and  it  is  obvious  that  it  would 
require  fcarcelv  greater  ingenuity  to 
fabricate  moulds  in  which  to  call  the 
various  im[)Iements  which  they  needed 
in  their  fimple  arts.  Some  of  thefe  im- 
plements, with  indubitalile  marks  of 
having  been  call  in  moulds,  have  been 
recently  difcovered.  witli  a  multitude  of 
others,    wliicli    may   or   may   not   have 

palled 


V 


'\ 


\i 


Mf 


238 


Voyages  of 


Arriving  at  Trois  Rivieres,  I  found  all  the  IVTontagnais 
awaiting  me,  and  the  four  barques  as  I  ftated  above,  which 
had  gone  to  trade  with  them. 

The  lavac^es  were  delighted  to  fee  me,  and  I  went  on  fliore 
to  fpeak  with  them.  They  entreated  me,  together  with  my 
companions,  to  embark  on  their  canoes  and  no  others,  when 
we  went  to  the  war,  faying  that  they  were  our  old  friends. 
This  I  promifed  them,  telling  them  that  I  defired  to  fet  out 
at  once,  fince  the  wind  was  favorable ;  and  that  my  barque 
was  not  fo  fwift  as  their  canoes,  for  which  reafon  I  defired  to 
go  on  in  advance.  They  earnefily  entreated  me  to  wait  until 
the  morning  of  the  next  day,  when  we  would  all  go  together, 
adding  that  they  would  not  go  fafler  than  I  fliould.  Finally, 
to  fatisfy  them,  I  promifed  to  do  this,  at  which  they  were 
greatly  pleafed.  ,  .  •  1  •  - 

On  the  following  dav,  we  all  fet  out  tociether,  and  con- 
tinned  our  route  until  the  morning  of  the  next  day,  the 
19th  of  the  month,  when  we  arrived  at  an  illand"^*"'  off  the 

river 


pafTed  throiio;h  the  fame  procefs.  The 
teftimnny  of  Champlain  in  the  text, 
and  tlie  examples  of  moulded  copper 
found  in  tlie  lake  region,  render  the  evi- 
dence, in  oLH'  judij;nient.  entirely  conclu- 
(ive  that  the  art  of  workinij  copper 
both  by  fufion  and  malleation  exilled 
among  the  Indians  of  America  at  the 
time  of  its  firlt  occupation  by  the 
French. 

During  the  period  of  five  years,  be- 
ginning in  i<S7i,  an  enthufiallic  anti- 
quary. Mr.  F.  S.  ]*erkins,  of  Wifconfm, 
collecled.  within  the  borders  of  his  own 
State,  a  hundred  and  forty-two  copper 
imijlements,  of  a  great  variety  of  forms, 
and  defigned  for  numerous  ufes,  ,as 
axes,  hatchets,  fpear-heads.  arrow- 
heads,  knives,   gouges,    chifels,   adzes, 


augers,  gads,  drills,  and  other  articles 
of  anomalous  forms.  Thefe  are  now 
depofited  in  the  archives  of  the  Hillor- 
ical  .Society  of  Wifconfm.  Other  col- 
lections are  gradually  forming.  The 
procefs  is  of  neceflity  How,  as  they  are 
not  often  found  in  groups,  but  fmgly, 
here  and  there,  as  they  are  turned  u]>  by 
the  plough  or  fpade  or  other  imple- 
ments of  liufbandry.  The  Ibitement  of 
Champliin  in  the  text,  and  the  tellimony 
of  Cartier  three-quarters  of  a  century 
earlier,  to  which  we  have  referred,  give 
a  new  hillorical  fignificancc  to  thefe 
recent  difcoveries.  and  both  together 
tlirow  a  freih  light  upon  the  pre-hilloric 
period. 

^'^  This    was   the    liland   St.  Ignace, 

which 


r  r 


Sieur  de  Champ  lain. 


239 


river 


river  of  tlio  Iroquois,  and  waited  for  the  Algonqiiins,  who 
were  to  be  there  the  lame  day.  While  the  Montagnais  were 
felling  trees  to  clear  a  place  for  dancing,  and  for  arranging 
themfelves  for  the  arrival  of  the  Algonquins,  an  Algonquin 
canoe  was  fuddenly  feen  coming  in  hafle,  to  bring  word 
that  the  Algonquins  had  fallen  in  with  a  hundred  Iroquois, 
who  were  ftrongly  barricaded,  and  that  it  would  be  difficult 
to  conquer  them,  unlefs  they  Ihould  come  fpecdily,  together 
with  the  Matigoches,  as  they  call  us. 

The  alarm  at  once  founded  among  them,  and  each  one  got 
into  his  canoe  witli  his  arms.  They  were  quickly  in  readinefs, 
but  witli  confufion ,  'or  they  were  fo  precipitous  that,  inflead 
of  making  hafle,  they  hindered  one  another.  They  came  to 
our  barque  and  the  others,  begging  me,  together  with  my  com- 
panions, to  go  with  them  in  their  canoes,  and  they  were  fo 
urgent  that  I  embarked  with  four  others.  I  requefled  our 
pilot,  La  Routte,  to  flay  in  the  barque,  and  fend  me  fome  four 
or  five  more  of  my  companions,  if  the  other  barques  would 
fend  fome  fliallops  with  men  to  aid  us;  for  none  of  the 
barques  were  inclined  to  go  with  the  favages,  except  Captain 
Thibaut,  who,  having  a  barque  there,  went  with  me.  The 
favages  cried  out  to  thofe  who  remained,  faying  that  they 
were  woman-hearted,  and  that  all  they  could  do  was  to  make 
war  upon  their  peltry. 

Meanwhile,  after  going  fome  half  a  league,  all  the  fa\ages 
croffing  the  river  landed,  an  .,  leaving  their  canoes,  took  their 

bucklers, 

which  lies  oppnfite  the  mouth  of  the  river  however,  evident,  fmm  feveral  intimn- 

Iroquois  or  Richelieu.    Chanv>hiin's  de-  tions  found  in  the  text,  that  it  was  about 

fcription   is  not   futificiently  .icf^nite  to  a  league  from  the  mouth  of  the  Riche- 

enahle  us  to  identify  the  exact   location  lieu,  and  was  protjabiy  on  the  bank  ot 

of  liiis  conflict  with'tiie  favages.     It  is,  that  river. 


w 


■  I 


'ft 


'H 


) 


* 


,  .,l. 


\ 


\ "  'i 


.:* 


I     « 


/  il 


,:i.l 


\>\ 


240 


Voyages  of 


bucklers,  bows,  arrows,  clubs,  and  fwords,  which  they  attach  to 
the  end  of  large  fticks,  and  proceeded  to  make  their  way  in  the 
woods,  fo  fail:  that  we  foon  lofl  fight  of  them,  they  leaving  us, 
five  in  number,  without  guides.  This  dir})leared  us  ;  but,  keep- 
inc:  their  tracks  conllantlv  in  fi<rht,  we  followed  them,  althoufrh 
we  were  often  deceived.  We  went  through  denfe  woods, 
and  over  i'wamps  and  marllies,  with  the  water  always  up  to 
our  knee.i,  greatly  encumbered  by  a  pike-mau's  corfelet,  with 
which  each  one  was  armed.  We  were  alio  tormented  in  a 
grievous  and  unheard-of  manner  by  quantit"'js  of  mofquitoes, 
which  were  lb  thick  that  they  fcarcely  permitted  us  to  draw 
breath.  After  ixointr  ab(  ut  half  a  leairue  under  thefe  cir- 
cumdances,  and  no  longer  knowing  where  we  were,  we  per- 
ceived two  lavages  paffing  through  the  woods,  to  whom  we 
called  i?nd  told  them  to  ftay  with  us,  and  guide  us  to  the 
whereabouts  of  the  Iroquois,  otherwife  we  could  not  go 
there,  and  lliould  get  loll  in  the  woods.  They  flayed  to 
guide  us.  After  proceeding  a  fliorf  dillance,  we  law  a  lavage 
coming  in  halle  to  us.  to  induce  us  to  advance  as  rapidly  as 
poffible,  giving  me  to  underftand  that  the  Algonquins  and 
Montagnais  had  tried  to  force  the  barricade  of  the  Iroquois 
but  had  been  repulfed,  that  fome  of  the  b;:ft  men  of  the 
Montagnais  had  been  killed  in  the  attempt,  and  feveral 
wounded,  and  that  they  had  retired  to  wait  for  us,  in  whom 
was  their  only  hope.  We  had  not  gone  an  eighth  of  a 
league  with  this  lavage,  who  was  an  Algonc[uin  captain, 
before  we  heard  the  yells  and  cries  on  both  fides,  as  they 
jeered  at  each  other,  and  were  fkirmilhing  llightly  while 
awaiting  us.  As  foon  as  the  favages  perceived  us,  they 
began  to  Ihout,  lb  that  one  could  not  have  heard  it  thunder. 

I 


W 


\  :   ■<• 


i 


i 


4i 


{ 


t 


!    ' 


..*' 


1     J 


I   1    'fP 


'I 

i»i  i 


11 


^4  ^v^, 


*fcs» — —■,--  - 


Sietir  de  Chmnplain, 


241 

I  gave  orders  to  my  companions  to  follow  me  fteadily,  and 
not  to  leave  me  on  any  account.  I  approached  the  barricade 
of  the  enemy,  in  order  to  reconnoitre  it.  It  was  conflruacd 
of  large  trees  placed  one  upon  an  other,  and  of  a  circular 
fliape,  the  ufual  form  of  their  fortifications.  All  the  Mon- 
tagnais  and  Algonquins  approached  likewife  the  barricade. 
Then  we  commenced  firing  numerous  mufket-fliots  through 
the  brufli-wood,  fmce  we  could  not  fee  them,  as  they  could 
us.  I  was  wounded  while  firing  my  firfl  fliot  at  the  fide  of 
their  barricade  by  an  arrow,  which  pierced  the  end  of  my 
ear  and  entered  my  neck.  I  feized  the  arrow,  and  tore  it 
from  my  neck.  The  end  of  it  was  armed  with  a  very  fliarp 
ftone.  One  of  my  companions  alfo  was  wounded  at  the 
fame  time  in  the  arm  by  an  arrow,  which  I  tore  out  for  him. 
Yet  my  wound  did  not  prevent  me  from  doing  my  duty :  our 
favages  alfo,  on  their  part,  as  well  as  the  enemy,  did  their 
duty,  fo  that  you  could  fee  the  arrows  fly  on  all  fides  as 
thick  as  hail.  The  Iroquois  were  afloniflied  at  the  noife  of 
our  mufkets,  and  efpecially  that  the  balls  penetrated  better 
than  their  arrows.  They  were  fo  frightened  at  the  effecT: 
produced    that,    feeing    feveral    of   their    companions    fall 

wounded 


Champlain's  Explanation  of  the  accompanying  Map. 

roRT  DES  Iroquois. 

A.  The  fort  of  the  Iroquois.  B.  The  Iroquois  throwing  themfelves  into  the 
river  to  efcape  the  purfuit  of  the  Montagnais  and  Algonquins  who  followed  for 
the  puipofe  of  killing  them.  D.  Sieur  de  Champlain  and  five  of  his  men. 
E.  The  favages  friendly  to  us.  F.  Sieur  des  Prairies  of  St.  Malo  with  his 
comrades.  G.  Shallop  of  Sieur  des  Prairies.  H.  Great  trees  cut  down  for  the 
purpofe  of  deftroying  the  fort  of  the  Iroquois. 

3« 


I        » 


IJ 


■iljii' 


'  :^sSiliS&ii,u^^ 


r 


,  1 


1] 


:i  -I'C. 


T 


m 


I 


> 


i  * 


I 


I 

J 


242 


l^oyagcs  of 


wounded  and  deiid,  they  threw  themfelvcs  on  tlie  ground 
whenever  they  hearrl  a  difeliarge,  fuppofuii;  that  the  (liots 
Were  fure.  We  fcarcely  ever  mi  lied  fuing  two  or  three  balls 
at  one  ihot,  refling  our  nnilkets  mod  of  the  time  on  the 
fide  of  their  barricade.  Hut,  feeing  that  our  ammunition 
began  to  fail,  I  laid  to  all  the  favages  that  it  was  necel'fary 
to  break  down  their  barricades  and  capture  them  by  ftorm  ; 
and  that,  in  order  to  accomplifh  this,  they  mufl  take  their 
(hields,  cover  themfelves  with  them,  and  thus  api)roach  fo 
near  as  to  be  able  to  fallen  flout  ropes  to  the  polls  that  fup- 
ported  the  barricades,  and  pull  them  down  by  main  flrength, 
in  that  way  making  an  0})ening  large  enough  to  permit  them 
to  enter  the  fort.  I  told  them  that  we  would  meanwhile,  by 
our  mulketry-fire,  keep  off  the  enemy,  as  they  endeavored  to 
prevent  them  from  accomplilhing  this;  alfo  that  a  number 
of  them  Ihould  get  behind  fome  large  trees,  which  were  near 
the  barricade,  in  order  to  throw  them  down  upon  the  eneniy, 
and  that  others  Ihould  protecl  thefe  with  their  Ihields,  in  order 
to  keep  the  enemy  from  injuring  them.  All  this  they  did 
very  promptly.  And,  as  they  were  about  finilhing  the  work, 
the  barques,  diflant  a  league  and  a  half,  hearing  the  reports 
of  our  Uiulkets,  knew  that  we  were  engaged  in  conflicfl;  and 
a  young  man  from  St.  Malo,  full  of  courage,  Des  Prairies  by 
name,  who  like  the  reft  had  come  with  his  barque  to  engage 
in  peltry  traffic,  faid  to  his  companions  that  it  was  a  great 
fhame  to  let  me  fight  in  this  way  with  the  favages  without 
coming  to  my  affiftance ;  that  for  his  part  he  had  too  high  a 
fenfe  of  honor  to  permit  him  to  do  fo,  and  that  he  did  not 
wifli  to  expose  himfelf  to  this  reproach.  Accordingly,  he 
determined  to  come  to  me  in  a  Hiallop  with    fome  of   his 

compa. lions, 


Sicttr  dc  Chaviplaln, 


243 


companions,  toi^cthcr  with  fomc  of  mine  wliuni  he  took  with 
him.     Immediately  upon  his  arrival,  he  went  towards  the 
fort  of  the  Irofjuois,  fituated  on  the  bank  of  the  river.     Here 
he  landed,  and  came  to  find  me.    Upon  feeing  him,  I  ordered 
our  ravages  who  were  breaking  dov.n  the  fortrefs  to  (lop,  lb 
that  the  new-comers  might  have  their  (hare  of  the  (port.     I 
requefled  Sieur  des  Prairies  and  his  companions  to  fire  fome 
falvos  of  mu(ketry,  before  our  favagcs  (hould  carry  by  (torm 
the  enemy,  as  they  had  decided  to  do.     This  they  did,  each 
one   firing   feveral   (hots,  in  which   ail   did  their  duty  well. 
After  they  had  fired  enough,  I  addrelTed  myfelf  to  our  tav- 
ac^es,   urging   them   to  finidi   the  work.     Straightway,  they 
approached  the  barricade,  as  they  had  previoully  done,  while 
we  on  the  (lank  were  to  fire  at  thote  who  (hould  endeavor  to 
keep  them  from  breaking  it  down.     They  behaved  fo  well 
and  bravely  that,  with  the  help  of  our  mufkets,  they  made  an 
opening,  which,  however,  was  difficult  to  go  through,  as  there 
was  (lill  left  a  portion  as  high  as  a  man,  there  being  alfo 
branches  of  trees  there  which  had  been  beaten  down,  forming 
a  fcrious  obftacle.    But,  when  I  (aw  that  the  entrance  was  quite 
practicable,  I  gave  orders  not  to  fire  any  more,  which  they 
obeyed.     At  the  (ame  inftant,  fome  twenty  or  thirty,  both 
of  favao-cs  and  of  our  own  men,  entered,  fword  in  hand,  with- 
out   finding   much    refiflance.     Immediately,  all    who   were 
unharmed ^ook  to  fiight.     But  they  did  not  proceed  far;  for 
they  were  brought  down  by  thofe  around  the  barricade,  and 
thofe  who  efcaped  were  drowned  in  the  river.     We  captured 
fomc  fifteen  prifoners,  the  red.  being  killed  by  mulket-fhots, 
arrows,  and  the  fword.     When  the  fight  was  over,  tliere  came 
another  (hallop,  containing  fome  of  my  companions      1  his, 

although 


•ti 


!l      ! 


^ 


V      '  r. 

«    III 


.:f 


,',6 


ll    i 


244 


Voyages  of 


although  behind  time,  was  3'et  in  fcafon  for  the  booty,  which, 
liowcx'er,  was  not  of  much  account.  There  were  only  robes 
of  beaver-ikin,  and  dead  bodies  covered  with  blood,  which 
the  lavages  would  not  take  the  trouble  to  plunder,  laughing 
at  thofe  in  the  lafl  Ihallop,  who  did  lb ;  for  the  others  did  not 
engage  in  llich  low  bufinefs.  This,  then,  is  the  vi(5lory  ob- 
tained by  God's  grace,  for  gaining  which  they  gave  us  much 
praife. 

The  fa\-ages  fcalped  the  dead,  and  took  the  heads  as  a 
trophy  of  victory,  according  to  their  cuftom.  They  returned 
with  fifty  wounded  Montagnais  and  Algonquins  and  three 
dead,  fmging  and  leading  Jieir  prilbners  with  them.  They 
attaclied  to  flicks  in  the  prows  of  their  canoes  the  heads 
and  a  dead  body  cut  into  quarters,  to  eat  in  revenge,  as  they 
faid.  In  this  way,  they  went  to  our  barques  off  the  River  of 
the  Iroquois. 

My  companions  and  I  embarked  in  a  fliallop,  where  I  had 
my  wound  dreffed  by  the  lurgeon,  De  Boyer,  of  Rouen,  who 
Hkewife  had  come  here  for  the  purpofe  of  ticifhc  The  favages 
fpent  all  this  day  in  dancing  and  fmging. 

The  next  day,  Sieur  de  Pont  Gra\e  arrived  with  anothci* 
lliallop,  loaded  with  merchandife.  Moreover,  there  was  alio 
a  barque  containing  Captain  Pierre,  which  he  had  left  behind, 
it  being  able  to  come  only  with  difficult),  as  it  was  rather 
heavy  and  a  poor  failer. 

The  fame  day  there  was  fome  trading  in  peltry,  but  the 
other  barques  carried  off  the  better  part  of  the  booty.  It 
was  doing  them  a  great  fa\'or  to  fearch  out  a  flrange  people 
for  them,  that  tlicy  might  afterwards  carry  off  the  profit 
without  any   rifk  or  danger. 

That 


y,  which, 
ily  robes 
:1,  which 
laughing 
5  did  not 
fl:ory  ob- 
us  much 

ads  as  a 
returned 
nd  three 
i.  They 
le  heads 
,  as  they 
River  of 

■re  I  had 
-len,  who 
3  favages 

anothei" 
was  abb 

behind, 
,s  rather 

but  the 
•oty.  It 
:  peo})le 
e  profit 

That 


Sieur  de  CJiaviplain.  245 

That  day,  I  afkcd  the  lavages  for  an  Iroquois  prifoncr  wliich 
they  liad,  and  tliey  gave  bim  to  me.  What  I  did  for  him  was 
not  a  little;  fori  faved  him  from  many  tortures  which  he  mult 
have  fuffered  ir  company  with  his  fellow-prifoners,  whole 
nails  they  tore  o  ',  alfo  cutting  off  their  fingers,  and  burning 
them  in  feveral  places.  They  put  to  death  on  the  fame  day 
two  or  three,  and,  in  order  to  increafe  their  torture,  treated 
them  in  the  following  manner. 

They  took  the  prifoners  to  the  border  of  the  water,  and 
fafiened  them  perfectly  upright  to  a  flake.  Then  each  came 
with  a  torch  of  birch  bark,  and  burned  them,  now  in  this 
place,  now  in  that.  The  poor  wretches,  feeling  the  fire, 
raifed  fo  loud  a  cry  that  it  was  Ibmething  frightful  to  hear; 
and  frichtful  indeed  are  the  cruelties  which  thefe  barbarians 
practife  towards  each  other.  After  making  them  fiiffer 
greatly  in  this  manner  and  burning  them  with  the  above- 
mentioned  bark,  taking  Ibme  water,  they  threw  it  on  their 
bodies  to  increafe  their  fuffering.  Then  they  applied  the 
fire  anew,  fo  that  the  Ikin  fell  from  their  bodies,  they  con- 
tinuing to  utter  loud  cries  and  exclamations,  and  dancing 
until  the  poor  wretches  fell  dead  on  the  fpot. 

As  foon  as  a  body  fell  to  the  ground  dead,  they  flruck  it 
violent  blows  with  flicks,  when  they  cut  off  the  arms,  legs, 
and  other  parts ;  and  he  was  not  regarded  by  them  as  manly, 
who  did  not  cut  off  a  pi-ce  of  the  flefli,  and  give  it  to  tlie 
dogs.  Such  are  the  courtefies  prilbners  receive.  But  (lill 
they  endure  all  the  tortures  inflicled  upon  them  with  fuch 
conllancy  that  the  fpedator  is  afloniflied. 

As  to  the  other  prifoners,  which  remained  in  poffeffion  of 
the  Algonquins  and  Montagnais,  it  was  left  to  their  wives 

and 


w 


\l 


i:r 


fl 


\t  y- 


'  .       it 


fi 


246 


Voyages  of 


and  daughters  to  put  them  to  death  with  their  own  hands ; 
and,  in  fuch  a  matter,  they  do  not  fliow  themfelves  lefs 
inhuman  than  the  men,  but  even  furpafs  them  by  far  in  cru- 
elty;  for  they  devife  by  their  cunnino-  more  cruel  punifli- 
ments,  in  which  they  take  plealure,  putting  an  end  to  their 
lives  by  the  mofl  extreme  pains. 

The  next  day  there  arrived  the  Captain  Yroquet,  alfo 
another  Ochateguin,  with  fome  eighty  men,  who  regretted 
greatly  not  having  been  prefent  at  the  defeat.  Among  all 
thefe  tribes  there  were  prefent  nearly  two  hundred  men,  who 
had  never  before  leen  Chrillians,  for  whom  they  conceived  a 
great  admiration. 

We  were  fome  three  days  together  on  an  ifland  off  the 
river  of  the  Iroquois,  when  each  tribe  returned  to  its  own 
country. 

I  had  a  young  lad,  who  had  already  fpent  two  winters  at 
Quebec,  and  who  was  dehrous  of  going  with  the  Algonquins 
to  learn  their  language.  Pont  Grave  and  I  concluded  that, 
if  he  entertained  this  defire,  it  would  be  better  to  fend  him 
to  this  place  than  el fe where,  that  he  might  afcertain  the 
nature  of  their  country,  fee  the  great  lake,  obfcrve  the  rivers 
and  tribes  there,  and  alfo  explore  the  mines  and  objec^ls  of 
fpecial  interefi:  in  the  localities  occupied  by  thefe  tribes,  in 
order  tliat  he  might  inform  us,  jpon  his  return,  of  the  facfs 
of  the  cafe.  We  afked  him  if  it  was  his  dehre  to  go,  for  I 
did  not  with  to  force  him.  But  he  anfwered  the  quedion  at 
once  by  confenting  to  the  journey  with  great  pleafure. 

Going  to  Captain  Yroquet,  who  was  ftrongly  attached  to 
me,  I  afked  him  if  he  would  like  to  take  this  young  boy 
to  his  country  to  fpend  the  winter  with  him,  and  bring  him 

back 


Siettr  de  Chainplain,  247 

back  in  the  fpring.  He  promifed  to  do  fo,  and  treat  him  as 
his  own  fon,  faying  that  he  was  greatly  plealed  with  the  idea. 
He  communicated  the  plan  to  all  the  Algonquins,  who  were 
not  greatly  pleafed  with  it,  from  fear  that  fome  accident  miglit 
happen  to  the  boy,  which  w'ould  caufe  us  to  make  war  upon 
them.  This  hefitation  cooled  the  dehre  of  Yroquet,  who  came 
and  told  me  that  all  his  companions  failed  to  find  the  plan  a 
good  one.  Meanwhile,  all  the  barques  had  left,  excepting  that 
of  Pont  Grave,  who,  having  fome  prefhng  bufinefs  on  hand, 
as  he  told  me,  went  away  too.  But  I  flayed  witli  my  barque 
to  fee  how  the  matter  of  the  journey  of  this  boy,  which  I 
was  defirous  fliould  take  place,  wou^  refult.  I  accordingly 
went  on  lliore,  and  afked  to  fpeak  with  the  captains,  ^vho 
came  to  me,  and  we  fat  down  for  a  conference,  together  with 
many  other  favages  of  age  and  didmc^ion  in  their  troops. 
Then  I  afked  them  why  Captain  Yroquet,  whom  I  regarded 
as  my  friend,  had  refufed  to  take  my  boy  with  him.  I  faid 
that  it  was  not  acting  like  a  brother  or  friend  to  refufe  me 
what  he  had  promifed,  and  what  could  refult  in  nothing 
but  good  to  them ;  taking  the  boy  would  be  a  means  of  in- 
creafmg  flill  more  our  friendOiip  ^vith  them  and  forming  one 
with  their  neighbors;  that  their  fcruples  at  doing  fo  only 
gave  me  an  unfavorable  opinion  of  them ;  and  that  if  they 
would  not  take  the  boy,  as  Captain  Yroquet  had  promifed,  I 
would  never  have  any  friendlhip  with  them,  for  they  were 
not  children  to  break  their  promifes  in  this  manner.  They 
then  told  me  that  they  were  fatisfied  with  the  arrangement, 
only  they  feared  that,  from  change  of  diet  to  fomething  worfe 
than  he  had  been  accullomed  to,  fome  harm  might  happen 

to 


f 


m 


'\ 


I*  J 


':';i 


'1 1 


}i= 


li 


248 


Voyages  of 


to  the  boy,  wliich  would  provoke  my  dilpleafure.  Tliis  they 
faid  wa?  the  only  caule  of  their  refulal. 

I  replied  that  the  boy  would  be  able  to  adapt  liimfelf  with- 
out difficulty  to  their  manner  of  living  and  ufual  food,  and 
that,  if  through  ficknefs  or  the  fortunes  of  war  any  harm 
Ihould  befall  him,  this  would  not  interrupt  my  friendly  feel- 
ings towards  them,  and  that  we  were  all  expofed  to  accidents, 
which  we  mull  fubmit  to  with  patience.  But  I  faid  that  if 
they  treated  him  badly,  and  if  any  misfortune  happened  to 
him  through  their  fault,  I  Ihould  in  truth  be  difpleafed,  which, 
however,  I  did  not  expect  from  them,  but  c[uite  the  contrary. 

They  faid  to  me :  "  Since,  then,  this  is  your  defire,  we  will 
take  him,  and  treat  him  like  ourlelves.  But  you  Ihall  aUb 
take  a  young  man  in  his  place,  to  go  to  France.  We  fhall 
be  greatly  pleafed  to  hear  him  report  the  fine  things  he  fhall 
have  leen."  I  accepted  with  pleafure  the  propofition,  and  took 
the  young  man.  He  belonged  to  the  tribe  of  the  Ochate- 
guins,  and  was  alfo  glad  to  go  with  me.  This  prefented  an 
additional  motive  for  treating  my  boy  flill  better  than  they 
miiT^ht  otherwife  have  done.  I  fitted  him  out  with  what  he 
needed,  and  we  made  a  mutual  promife  to  meet  at  the  end  of 
June. 

We  parted  with  many  promifes  of  friendfliip.  Then  they 
went  away  towards  the  great  fall  of  the  River  of  Canada, 
while  I  returned  to  Quebec.  On  my  way,  I  met  Pont  Grave 
on  Lake  St.  Peter,  who  was  waiting;  for  me  with  a  large 
patache,  which  he  had  fallen  in  with  on  this  lake,  and  which 
had  not  been  expeditious  enough  to  reach  the  place  where 
the  favages  were,  on  account  of  its  poor  failing  qualities. 

We  all  returned  together  to  Quebec,  when   Pont  Grave 

went 


'       !■ 


fe 


Sienr  de  Chmnplain, 


249 


riiis  they 

fclf  witli- 
food,  and 
ny  harm 
tidly  fcel- 
Lccidcnts, 
d  that  if 
3cncd  to 
d,  which, 
contrary. 
\  we  will 
liall  alio 
^Ve  fliall 
he  Ihall 
md  took 
Ocliate- 
:nted  an 
an  they 
-vhat  he 
^  end  of 

en  they 
Canada, 
t  Grave 
a  larofe 
1  which 
t  where 
ies. 
Grave 
went 


went  to  Tadouffac,  to  arrange  fome  matters  pertaining  to  our 
quarters  there.  But  I  fla)ed  at  Quebec  to  f*"^  to  the  recon- 
ftrudion  of  'jme  palifades  about  our  abode,  until  Pont  Grave 
(liould  return,  when  we  could  confer  together  as  to  what  was 
to  be  done. 

On  the  4th  of  June,  Des  Marais  arrived  at  Quebec,  greatly 
to  our  joy ;  for  we  were  afraid  that  Ibme  accident  had  hap- 
pened to  him  at  fea. 

Some  days  after,  an  Iroquois  prifoner,  whom  I  had  kept 
guarded,  got  away  in  confequence  of  my  giving  him  too  much 
liberty,  and  made  his  efcape,  urged  to  do  lb  by  fear,  not- 
withflanding  the  affurances  givea  him  by  a  woman  of  his 
tribe  we  had  at  our  fettlemcnt. 

A  few  days  after,  Pont  Grave  wrote  me  that  he  was  think- 
ing of  paffing  the  winter  at  the  fettlemcnt,  being  moved  to  do 
fo  by  many  confiderations.  I  replied  that,  if  he  expecT:ed  to 
fare  better  than  I  had  done  in  the  pafl,  he  would  do  well. 

He  accordingly  haftened  to  provide  himfelf  with  the  fup- 
plies  neceffary  for  the  fettlemcnt. 

After  I  had  finiilied  the  palifade  about  our  habitation,  and 

put  every  thing  in  order.  Captain  Pierre  returned  in  a  barque 

in  which  he  had  gone  to  Tadouffac  to  fee  his  friends.     I  alfo 

went  there  to  afcertain  what  would  refult  from  the  fecond 

trading,  and  to  attend  to  fome  other  fpecial  bufinefs  which  I 

had  there.     Upon  my  arrival,  I  found  there  Pont  Grave,  who 

flated  to  me  in  detail  his  plans,  and  the  rcafons  inducing  him 

to  fpend  the  winter.     I  told  him  frankly  what  I  thought  of 

the  matter ;  namely,  that  I  believed  he  would  not  derive  much 

profit  from  it,  according  to  the  appearances  that  were  plainly 

to  be  feen. 

32  He 


* 


H 


I'  ' 


il 


ii 


ir 


250 


Voyages  of 


He  determined  accordingly  to  change  his  plan,  and  de- 
fpatched  a  barque  \s\\\\  orders  for  Captain  Pierre  to  return 
from  (Quebec  on  account  of  fome  bufinels  he  had  with  him : 
with  the  intelligence  alfo  that  fome  veffels,  which  had  arrived 
from  Brouage,  brought  the  news  Hiat  IMoniieur  de  Saint  Luc 
had  come  by  pofl  from  Paris,  expelled  thole  of  the  religion 
from  Brouage,  re-enforced  the  garrifon  with  Ibldiers,  and 
then  returned  to  Court  ;"''"'^  that  the  king  had  been  killed,  and 
two  or  three  days  after  him  the  Duke  of  Sully,  together  with 
two  other  lords,  whofe  names  they  did  not  know;'"^^ 

All  thele  tidings  gave  great  forrow  to  the  true  French  in 
thefe  quarters.  As  for  mylelf,  it  was  hard  for  me  to  believe 
it,  on  account  of  the  different  reports  about  the  matter,  and 
which  had  not  much  appearance  of  truth.  Still,  I  was  greatly 
troubled  at  hearing  fueh  mournful  news. 

Now,  after  having  Ifayed  three  or  four  days  longer  at 
TadoulTac,  I  faw  the  lols  which  many  merchants  mull  fuffer, 
who  had  taken  on  board  a  large  quantity  of  merchandife, 
and  fitted  out  a  great  number  of  xellels,  in  expectation  of 
doing  a  good  bufinefs  in  the  fur-trade,  which  was  fo  j^oor  on 
account  of  the  great  number  of  veffels,  that  many  will  for  a 
Ions:  time  remember  the  lofs  which  thev  futfered  this  year. 

Sieur  de  Pont  Grave  and  I  embarked,  each  of  us  in  a 
barque,  leaving  Captain  Pierre  on  the  vellel.  We  took  Du 
Pare  to   Quebec,  where   we   finilhed  what   remained   to  be 

done 

8C6     Yox  fo!ne  account  of  Saint  Luc,  the  rumor  of  tlie  death  of  tlie  Duke  of 

fee  Memoir.  Vol.  I.    By  iliofe  of  tlic  ro-  Sully   was   erroneous.     Maximelien  de 

liiiion.  ci'ux  de  ia  Reliction,  are  meant  the  lUkhune.  the  Duke  of  Sully,  died  on  the 

Hu<juenots,  or  Protellants.  22d  of  December,  1641,  at   the   age  of 

867  The  alVaffination  (  f  Henry  IV.  oc-  eighty-two  years, 
curred  on  the  14th  of  May,  1610;  but 


^•JJ^-:^:.J^i-\'iSif^-^: 


and  de- 
o  return 
th  liini ; 
[  arrived 
lint  Luc 
religion 
3rs,  and 
led,  and 
ler  with 

ench  in 
believe 

ter,  and 
greatly 

"iger   at 
fuffer, 
landife, 
tion  of 
loor  on 
11  for  a 
/ear. 
-IS  in  a 
>ok  Du 
to  be 
done 

Duke  of 
lelien  de 
'd  on  tlie 
i  age  of 


Sieur  de  ChavipUun,  251 

done  at  the  fettlenient.  After  every  thing  was  in  good  con- 
dition, wc  refolved  that  Du  Pare,  who  had  wintered  there 
with  Captain  Pierre,  fliould  remain  again,  and  that  Captain 
Pierre  (liould  return  to  France  with  us,  on  account  of  fome 
bufmefs  that  called  him  there. 

We  accordingly  left  Du  Pare  in  command  there,  with  fix- 
teen  men,  all  of  whom  we  enjoined  to  live  foberly,  and  in  the 
fear  of  God,  and  in  flrid  obfervance  of  the  obedience  due  to 
the  authority  of  Du  Pare,  who  was  left  as  their  chief  and 
commander,  juft  as  if  one  of  us  had  reniained.  This  they 
all  promifed  to  do,  and  to  live  in  peace  with  each  other. 

As  to  the  gardens,  we  left  them  all  well  fupplied  with 
kitchen  vegetables  of  all  forts,  together  with  fine  Indian 
corn,  wheat,  rye,  and  barley,  which  had  been  already  planted. 
There  were  alfo  vines  which  I  had  fet  out  when  I  fpent  the 
winter  there,  but  thefe  they  made  no  attempt  to  preferve; 
for,  upon  my  return,  I  found  them  all  in  ruins,  and  I  was 
greatly  difpleafed  that  they  had  given  lb  little  attention  to 
the  prefervation  of  fo  fine  and  good  a  plot,  from  which  I 
had  anticipated  a  favorable  refult. 

After  leeing  that  every  thing  was  in  good  order,  we  fet 
out  from  Quebec  on  the  8th  of  Augufl  for  Tadouffac,  in 
order  to  prepare  our  veffel,  which  was  fpeedily  done. 

CHAPTER  III. 


)  I 


II 


i 


252 


Voyages  of 


CIIArXKR   III. 


Return  to   France. 


i 


\ 

\ 


x\ 


%\ 


\ 


11      \ 


^\ 


Meeting  a  Whale;  —  the  Mode  of  capturino 

THEM. 


^1N  the  13th  of  the  month,  \vc  fet  out  from  Tadouf- 
fac,  arriving  at  lie  Percec  the  next  day,  where 
we  found  a  large  number  of  velTels  engaged  in 
tlic  filhery,  dry  and  green. 
0\\  the  iSth  of  the  month,  we  departed  from 
He  Percee,  pafilng  \\\  latitude  42",  without  fighting  the  Grand 
Bank,  where  the  green  fiHiery  is  carried  on,  as  it  is  too  narrow 
at  this  altitude. 

When  we  were  about  half  way  acrols,  we  encountered  a 
whale,  which  was  afleep.  The  velTel,  paffing  over  him,  awak- 
ening him  betimes,  made  a  great  hole  in  him  near  the  tail, 
without  damaging  our  velTel ;  but  he  threw  out  an  abundance 
of  blood. 

It  has  feemed  to  me  not  out  of  place  to  give  here  a  brief 
defcription  of  the  mode  of  catching  whales,  which  many 
have  not  witnelTed,  and  fiippofe  that  they  are  Ihot,  owing  to 
the  falle  alfertion;-  about  the  matter  made  to  them  in  their 
ignorance  by  impoliors,  and  on  account  of  which  fuch  ideas 
have  often  been  u])ltinately  maintained  in  my  pretence. 

Thofe,  then,  moil  ikilful  in  this  fiOiery  are  the  Bafques, 
who,  for  the  purpofe  of  engaging  in  it,  take  their  veffels  to  a 
place  of  fecurity,  and  near  where  they  think  wliales  are  plenty. 
Then  they  equip  leveral  fhallops  manned  by  competent  men 
and  provided   with  hawfers,  fmall   ropes   made  of    the  belt 

hemp 


many 


Sicicr  dc  Champlain.  253 

hemp  to  be  found,  at  leafl  a  lumdrcd  and  fifty  fathoms  long. 
They  are  alio  i)rovided  with  many  halbeids  of  the  IcMv^th  of 
a  fhort  pike,  whofc  iron  is  fix  inciies  broad;  others  are  from 
a  foot  and  a  h.alf  to  two  feet  long,  and  very  lliarp.  Each 
Ihallop  has  a  hari)ooncr,  the  mull  agile  and  adroit  man  they 
have,  whole  pay  is  next  liighell  to  that  of  the  mailers,  his 
pofition  being  the  moll  dangerous  one.  Tliis  lh.ilU)p  l)eiiig 
outfide  of  the  port,  the  men  look  in  all  .^uarter^  for  a  whale, 
tacking  al)out  ii\  all  directions.  Ihit,  il  the\  Ue  nothinu', 
they  return  to  the  lliore,  and  afccnd  the  hi\L^|\v  ll  in)int  they 
can  find,  and  from  which  tliey  can  get  the  moll  extenfive 
view.  Here  they  flati(n\  a  man  tn\  the  look-out.  They  are 
aided  in  catcl\ing  fight  of  a  wliale  both  by  his  fi/e  and  the 
water  he  fpouts  llirough  his  blow-holes,  which  i:^  nu)re  than 
a  puncheon  .U  a  time,  and  two  lances  high.  I'rom  ihe 
amount  of  this  water,  they  eflimale  how  much  oil  he  will 
yield.  From  fome  they  get  as  many  as  one  hundred  and 
twenty  puncheons,  from  others  lefs.  Having  caught  fight  of 
this  monflrous  filh,  they  haften  to  embark  in  their  ihallops, 
and  by  rowing  or  failing  they  advance  until  they  are  ujjon 
him. 

Seeing  him  under  water,  the  harpooner  goes  at  once  to 
the  prow  of  the  fhallop  with  his  harpoon,  an  iron  two  feet 
long  and  half  a  foot  wide  at  the  lower  part,  uid  attached  to 
a  Hick  as  long  as  a  fmall  pike,  in  the  middle  of  which  is 
a  hole  to  which  the  hawfer  is  made  fall.  The  harpooner, 
watching  liis  time,  throws  his  hari)oon  at  the  whale,  which 
enters  him  well  forward.  As  foon  as  he  finds  himfelf 
wounded,  the  whale  goes  down.  And  if  by  chance  turning 
about,  as  he  does  fometimes,  his  tail  llrikes  the  Ihallop,  it 

breaks 


254 


Voyao'cs  of 


i  / 


■,  * 


>  *■ 


breaks  it  like  glafs.  This  is  tlie  only  rilk  tlicy  run  of  being 
killed  in  harpooning.  /\s  foon  as  they  have  thrown  the  har- 
poon into  him.  they  let  the  hawfer  run  until  the  whale  reaches 
the  bottom.  Hut  Ibmetinies  he  does  not  ijo  ftraiLrht  to 
the  bottom,  when  he  drags  the  Ihallop  eight  or  nine  leagues 
or  more,  going  as  iwiftly  as  a  horfe.  Very  often  they  are 
obliged  to  cut  their  hawfer,  for  fear  that  the  whale  will  take 
them  underwater.  Hut,  when  he  L!;oes  ib"ai<'ht  to  the  bottom, 
he  reds  there  awhile,  and  then  returns  quietly  to  the  lurface, 
the  men  takitig  aboard  au;ain  the  hawfer  as  he  rifes.  When 
he  comes  to  the  top,  two  or  three  (hillops  are  ftationed  around 
with  halberds,  with  which  they  give  him  feveral  blows.  Find- 
ing himfelf  ffruck,  the  whale  goes  down  aejain,  leavincj  a  trail 
of  blood,  and  grows  weak  to  fuch  an  extent  that  he  has  no 
longer  any  flrength  nor  energy,  and  returning  to  the  furface 
is  finallv  killed.  When  dead,  he  does  not  ^o  down  a^ain : 
fattening  flout  ropes  to  him,  they  drag  him  alhore  to  their 
head-quarters,  the  place  where  they  try  out  the  fat  of  the 
whale,  to  obtain  his  oil.  This  is  the  way  whales  are  taken, 
and  not  by  cannon-ihots,  which  many  fupjx)fe,  as  I  have  flated 
above. 

To  refume  the  thread  of  my  narrative:  after  wounding  the 
whale,  as  mentioned,  we  captured  a  great  many  porpoifes, 
which  our  mate  harpooned  to  our  pleafure  and  amufement. 
We  alfo  caught  a  ejreat  many  fiih  havintx  a  larcre  ear,  with  a 
hook  and  line,  attaching  to  the  hook  a  little  filh  refembling 
a  herrincf,  and  letting;  it  trail  behind  the  veffel.  The  larw  ear, 
thinking  it  in  fact  a  living  fifh,  comes  up  to  fwallow  it,  thus 
finding  himfelf  at  once  caught  by  the  hook,  which  is  con- 
cealed  in   the  body  of  the  little  filh.     This  fifli  is  very  good, 

and 


^ 


Sicvr  de  Chainplain,  255 

ct.id  has  certain  tufts  wliich  arc  \cry  handlbmc,  and  rciunble 
tliofe  worn  on  plumes. 

On  the  2 2d  of  September,  we  arrived  on  foundings.  Here 
\vc  faw  twenty  vel'fels  fome  four  leagues  to  the  weft  of  us, 
which,  as  they  appeared  from  our  veffel,  we  judged  tcj  be 
Flemilh. 

On  the  25th  of  the  month,  wc  fighted  the  Ifle  de  Greneze,*'^ 
after  experiencing  a  f^rong  blow,  which  lalled  until  noon. 
On  the  27th  of  the  month,  we  arrived  at  Hontleur. 

■""*  riuernfey,  which  lily  flircclly  before     that  met  the  eye  on  tlieir  way  to  Hon- 
thfin  as  tht;y  advanced  up  the  Kiij^dilh     lleur. 
Channel,  and  was  the  tirit  large  illand 


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INDEX. 


A. 

Aiu-,na(Um:,  175. 

Aliriou,  150. 

Aliiiplic  River.  105. 

Acadie,  213. 

Anoniack,  79. 

iXcniminticus,  69. 

Arhelacy.  iHS. 

A(  Uiiidin.  147. 

Ai.i.uuliiiec!i.  147. 

Adirondack  .^'ountains,  21S. 

Advocate's  Harl)or.  25,  26,  149. 

Au^iincia.  49. 

Alexander,  Sir  William,  9.  16. 

Alexandria,  2. 

Alfonfe.  Jean,  2,  40,  49,  174.  i-*^!^- 

Alironqutn.  175.  196,  202.  2I.S.  22(,  225, 
22(),  227.  22.S,  229.  234.  236.  237,  239, 
240.  241.  244,  245,  24').  247. 

Allen  River,  24.  107,  140. 

All  llles.  Hay  of,  11. 

Almouchiquois,  55,  ("13,  146,  147. 

Alonfon,  175. 

Alouettes,  Point  aux.  165.  170. 

America,  4,  20,  64,  74,  155.  159- 

American  Academy,  Memoirs  of,  77. 

American  Antiiiu.irian  Society.  22c). 


AnalTou,  92. 

AndrofcoLi^in,  59. 

Aneda,  its  healing  qualities,  61. 

Anglois.  Le  Port  aux.  156. 

Ansoulelme.  31 . 

Annapolis,  22,  24.  107.  140. 

Annapolis  Pafin,  17,  loi,  139. 

Annapolis  River,  22,  107,  144. 

Anne,  Ste..  201,  226. 

Anne  of  P)enmark,  70. 

Annilquam.  70. 

Annilquam  Harbor.  1 14. 

Antoine,  St.  Riviere,  23,  24. 

Anions.  Sieur  de,  93,  108. 

Archangel,  92. 

Archer,  237. 

Argal's  Pay,  16. 

.Ar^yl  River.  105. 

Artichokes.  Jernlalem,  82,  112,  123. 

.\lher.  (1.  M.,  I7[. 

Alh-tree,  113. 

Aubry,  Nicholas,  20. 

AuLTullinc,  St.,  14. 

Auk,  13.  14- 

B. 

Bacalaos,  y^. 

Bacchus,  Ille  de,  62,  67.  no,  173. 


26 


)0 


IndiW 


li 


1 


ii 

If 
Ii 


.!S 


lack  River.  57. 

iatiiiall,  Walter,  62. 

'.aid  I'cak.  ::iS. 

lallaiil.  Rfv.  Mr.  I  Mward,  92.  93. 

)aird"s  Kipoit.  dS,  S.^, 

ian-or.  33.  43.  44.  4^.. 

Sank,  Cirand.  15^,  22S. 

'..irnllahlo.  lid.  117. 

'.arqvR',  l"reiu'h,  145. 

Sarriiiiiton  llarlmi.  1::. 

ialqucs.    12.    154,    i')5,    ir/i,    177,   213, 
233,  235.  237.  111. 

Satli,  5<j,  92. 

latilcan.  201. 

jattlc,    proparalion    for,    by    Indians, 
214:  (M"  Lake  Chainplaiii.  219-223; 
at  the  ■Mouth  of  the  Richelieu,  240- 
246. 
I'.atturier.  Cap.  1 19. 
llaiule.  Moulin.  Ii''i4. 
Baye  do  Toutes  liles.  152. 
liaye  Franc^oife,  15.  20,  21.  24.  27.  14S. 
liaytield.  CajJl..  i<)7. 
r>ay.  La  Courante.  105,  io6. 
15ay  of   Fundy,  15.   16,   20,   24,   25,   27, 

40,  13'). 
r.ay  of  St.  John,  2.S. 
liay  of  Mines,  25.  27. 
liayofSi.  Lawrence,  26. 
ISavonne,   ill. 
Fieai   r.rook.  1  75. 
I'.ear  1  lland,  23. 
Hear  River,  24. 
IJeaumont,  35. 
lieauport.  111,115. 
lieauport.  Riviere  I'e,  176. 
liedahedec.  41,  42.  46.  47,  4,^,  55.  56. 
ISeech-tree.s,  i  13. 
Belknap,  Rev.  Jer.,  92. 
Tielleni^er,  175. 


r>orjon,  Jean,  i.x,  xv, 

r.elVahc/.,  45,  46,  142,  143. 

liiard.  I'^re.  3<),  213. 

Rililioiheipie  .X.uionale.  40. 

Liencourville,  22. 

Hii^elow,  Dr.  Jacob,  113. 

Ilird.s.  names  of,  14,  15. 

15lack  iiefs,  114. 

Blackbird,  6S. 

Pilack  Ca])e,  172. 

Black  i'oint,  62. 

Black  Rivtr.  171. 

Black  Skimmer.  S7. 

lUntV  lllanck  62. 

Biohemians.  124. 

Bonavonture.  lll.md  of,  164. 

Bonnerme.  iSo,  197. 

])ofcanhes.;an  Lake,  47. 

Bollon.  1 13,  122. 

Bollon  Bay.  74.  76. 

P>ollon  Society  of  Xatural  Hiflory.  87, 

216. 
Bones.  Charles  do,   1S3. 
Boul.iy,  iT).  35,  97. 
Bourioli,  la  .Motto,  35. 
Buyer.  loS. 
Bioyer.  Do.  244. 

Br.ultonl.  W'm.,  7S,  S9.  121,  136. 
lirant  Point.  75,  7''),  80,  115,  116. 
l>ras  d"Or,  La,  156. 
Brazilian  beans,  (^\,  82,  m,  112. 
Brel)eur.  Pere,  213. 
Brereton,  237. 
P.rell,  228. 
P.retons,  233,  237. 
Brouai;e,  250. 
P>runfuick.  92. 
Burials,  142,  143,  146,  191. 
P.ullards,  14. 
Buzzard's  I5ay,  131,  132. 


Index, 


261 


y.  87, 


C. 

Cahaliis.  45.  47. 

C'.iliot,  jiilin,  2. 

Ciliot,  Schcilliiiii,  I,  lA.  61. 

(.'.ihircroiilial,  183. 

Cacii,  Z2. 

Calais.  34. 

Calendar  V.w^-  State  i'ai)crs,  62. 

Camden,  41. 

Canidtii  Mountains,  42,  4S. 

Camhiidi^t'  Miifeum,  14. 

Camel's  { inmii,  217. 

Canimock.    TliDm.i.s,  1 10. 

C"ani])l)Lll.  105. 

Cam|)ellre  de  T'Crsjc,  S. 

Cam];()l)ellii  llland,  100. 

Canada.  3.  7,  (a,  (>(>.  72,  86,   iSO,   187, 

I8S,    21(1,    230.    2}}.   248. 

Ciinada,  River  of.  248. 
Canadian."--.  45.  48.  124,  196. 
Cani/.a,  70. 
Cannon-lialls  at  St.  Croix.  33. 

Can(Ks.  7-J.  73-  74-  "''7- 

Canfoau.  7,  8.   12,   104,   106,    loS,   146, 

130,  151,  153,  154,  155,  156. 
Canloke,  7. 
Caji  aux  Oies,  172. 
Cap  lUanc.  79,  80.  90,  115,  116,  117. 
Cap  Corneille,  93,  137,  138. 
Ca[)  Dauphin,  171.  172. 
Caji  de  Tourmente,  172. 
Cap  St.  Loui:,,  74,  75,  76,  80,  115,  1 16. 
(;.npe  .Vnne,  69,  70.  71,  72,  90,  i  1 1,  135. 
Cape  llreton.  8,  9,  10,  27,  103,  104,  106, 

108,  149.  155.  156,  164.  H)6. 
Cape  lireton.  llland  of,  155. 
Cape  Charles,  171. 
Cape  Cod,  79,  80,  87,  90,  92,  115,  117, 

135,  140. 


Cape  Cod  Hay,  79,  115,  iiTi. 

Cape  Cod  Ilarhor,  78. 

Cape,  Crow,  93. 

Cape  Idi/.aheth,  61. 

Cape  James.  79. 

Cape  Jellilbn.  43. 

Cape  North,  14'). 

Cai)e  n\  Mines,  26. 

Cajje  I'orpoilc,  68,  69,  70. 

Cape  Sable,   13.   15,  19,   40,    105,   140, 

[54. 
Cape  St.  Lawrence,  i6.;. 
Cape  Salmon.  171,  172. 
Cape  St.  Mary.  1^4. 
Cape  .Sm.dl  i'oint.  61. 
CanlinaKs  Hat,  28. 
Carillon,  Fort.  224. 
Cari'er,  Jacques.   2,  61.  f/i.    171.   172, 

173.  175,  176.  183,  184,  185,  186,  187, 

188.  189.  201,  237. 
Cafco  M.w.  61. 
C.illine.  43. 

Catharine,  St.,  River,  153. 
Cathay,  4.  171. 
Cellar.  82. 

Chalitbur.  Riviere,  176. 
ChalouiK".  146. 

Chambly  Ijalui.  207,  210,  226. 
Chambly.  M.  de.  210. 
Ch.imcook  Mill.  32. 
Champdoio,    De.  20.  35,  90,    loo,    101, 

103,  105,  108,  109.  131,  (34. 
Champs,  Des.  98. 
Chaoufarou,  216. 
Chards.  112. 
Charles  I..  70. 
Charles,  I'rince,  70,  79. 
Charles,  St..  River.  176,  183,  1S4. 
Charles  River,  72,  76. 
Charlevoi.x,    2,    9,    ir,   16,  25,   27,  30, 


262 


Imh 


ex. 


37,  15:.  15V  i;c..  ir,,|.  175,  i.Si).  20; 


!i 


Y% 


Cli.ith.i'n.  \zo.  \ 

145. 
Ch.UlKini  Hi 


I  ^o. 


\\\.  \\i,  \\(\ 


j-t  'j"'i 


Cliatli.uu  Old  ll.irhor.  120,  122. 

Cli.ith.iiii  Ko.i  !s.  1  ::o,  122. 

Cliaiidit'ii.'.  47.  (^o. 

Challcs.  4. 

Chauvin.  C'apt..  4. 

Chavin,   Capt.    ricrie.    227.    234,    244, 

ClieliiKtii.  152.  L--49«  -50.  -5'' 

Chcdabiiclo  liay,  155. 

Clicdotcl,  <;. 

CIicrry-trL'ijs.  KiS. 

Clieriuuook.  47. 

Clicvalior.  14^).  147.  14S.  149. 

Clieyiie  Illaiid.  31. 

Chiuncito  r.ay,  i^,  ZJ. 

Cliii^ncH  lo.  Cape,  25,  zy. 

Chin.  217. 

China.  2.  ;■,  171. 

Chi)niinuhiinan.  \Cy). 

Chops.  57. 

Chduacoet,  Ciz.  64,  6S.  70,  .S5,  o'.   110, 

113.  123.  125.  147.  150.  ij;. 
Chrillians.  45.  141).  203.  :.oj,  246. 
Church.  Col.  iienjainin.  42. 
Churchill's  \'oyai,ros,  121. 
Cl.uii  ISay,  152. 
Clark's  I  Hand.  7.S. 
Clandiane,  23. 
Clyde,  12. 
Coall  Pilot.  62. 
Cohoiiepech,  1  13. 
Collier,  Sieiir,  22'^. 
Columbus.  Chriiloplier,  I2t,  155. 
Colunilnis.  Ferdinand.  121. 
ComniilTarics,  Engliih  and  I'rench,  15, 

16,  14S.  149.  153. 


Conquet,  22S. 

C()pi)er  mini's.  25,  27,  37,  97,  9S.  149. 

CcKiuillis.  I'orl  aux,  100. 

Cormorant,  14. 

Cormorant  Ill.md,  13,  105. 


orn. 


Indian,  111,  121,  122,  123. 


53- 


Corneiiles.  llle  aiix. 

Cortereal.  ( iaipar.  2. 

Cortereal.  Michael,  2. 

Cola,  Juan  de  la,  71). 

C*ouih\s.  I  lie  aux.  172,  185,  1S7. 

Couniry    Ilarlor.   153. 

Coucs's  Key.   13.  14,  dS.  S7,  89. 

Coinicil.  Koval.  163. 

Coy.  Mc.  lle.ul,  28. 

Cramolet.  90. 

Cr.ines.  14. 

Croix.  St..  15.  31,  32,  2,i.  34.  Vi^  37.  38. 
47,  4.).  sz,  55.  90,  93,  94.  98,  99,  100, 
107.  io<;.  138,  147,  184,  rS5,  18O.  187, 
188.  201,  204.  205. 

Croix.  .St.,  River,  31,  32,  175,  183. 

Crofs  Ill.md,  93. 

Crow's  Pond,  1  2r. 

Cruxius.  152.  155,  216. 

Cund>erl,uul  IkUui,  27. 

Curlew.  14. 

Currant,  red.  ^18.  198. 

Culhman.  David.  92.  93. 

Cutler.  77. 

Cutwater.  87. 

Cyprefs,  82,  112. 


D. 

D'Ave/.ic,  175.  18^1,  188,  237. 

Dirache.  iCiA. 

I  )aiipliin.  Riviere  du,  22. 

D.ivis.  John,  3. 

Deane.  Char'  s,  89. 


i  t 


li^ .  • 


taxsam'iiO'^- 


Index. 


263 


1.19. 


7, 38, 
.  100, 

.  1-^7, 


Pi-  Colli.  Hciijiimin  F.,  79. 

Dci])  liiook,  2.|. 

Dc  l..ut,  10,    i(),   :!7,   37.   7^  S6,   148, 

14.,.  151.  \\i.  153,  155,  156, 
T)c  Monts  lllaiul,  Little,  3a.  33. 
ncnnylville.  3!. 
Devils,  ruiiit  of  all,  165,  170. 
De.stn,   IhMirv   M.,   77>  7'"^.    "=3-   '-5' 

<3^'- 
Di.iuiDiuls,  I'oir.t  of,  175,  176. 
l)iei)|)e,  79,  227,  234. 
1  )i\  ide.  34. 

I)i.ul>y  Neik,  \(\  20,  21,  22. 
1)1.^1))  Strait,  101. 
DilUUerie,  La,  176. 
Dix  i'eak,  21S. 

Dorhet's  lllantl,  Little,  32.  33. 
l)i)y,s  of  the  I'avaj^es,  142,  190. 
1  )(iiiiiacona,  1S8,  237. 
I  )in  ks.  14. 
I)u  {'.las,  36. 
Diuiuen,  Father  Jean,  16S. 

E. 

Ea^lo  Cape,  172. 
Kail  Uoaon,  76. 
F,aft(n-n  Point,  114. 
Eallham,  13G. 
Kafl  India  Co.,  3. 
i:,ill  Indies,  197. 
I'lallport,  93,  13')- 
Kbouleniens  Mountains,  172. 
F.iryptians,  124. 
F.llin>;\vood  Rock,  56. 
Kloi,  St.,  201. 
Kmanuel,  Don,  2. 
Emmerfon's  Creek,  28. 
Lmnierfon's  Point,  72. 
England,  2,  3,  156,  197. 


Fnn;lilli,  171,  ^^37- 

Enulilh  Channel,  255. 

Equille,  Riviere  de,  22,  24,  94,  144. 

Elpkinade  du  Fort,  176. 

Ellienne.  Mailer,  145. 

i;ilienne,  St.,  54. 

Etechemins,  31,  32,  44,  47,  ''>3,  7-.  73, 

91,  13S,  142,  175- 
Ihiropc,  15. 
Europeans,  49,  237. 

F. 

Fendu,  6,  14S. 

Ferlind,  175,  233. 

Finillerre.  22S. 

Firll  Encounter,  136. 

Filhin.ii,  mode  of,  hy  the  Indians,  77. 

Flax,  77- 

Fle.is  at  Chatham,  125. 

Fletv  (h,  i9().  255. 

Flo  ida,  95.  99.  100,  iq8,  216,  218. 

Fcedera,  Rymer's,  2. 

Font;.inel)leau.  157,  22S. 

Force,  Peter,  123,  124. 

Forked.  Cape.  15. 

Fort  Point,  43,  114. 

Fort  P(  int  Ledge,  43. 

Fort  PoiVnall,  43. 

Fofs's  lieach,  70. 

Foulgi  re  de  Vitre',  loS. 

Fciigeray.  H- 

Fiaujues.  Captain.  3^.  107. 

Foun  bu  Cai)e,  H).  104,  105,  151. 

Fourchu  Port,  15. 

I'Ous,  Riviere  des.  176. 

France.  12,  37.  77,  102,  103,  108,  140, 
145.  14(1.  147,  150.  155.  159,  174.  182, 
i8fi,  I'd.  200.  227,  22S,  111,  248. 

I'rancis  I.,  2. 


264 


Index. 


1"  f 


M' 


I ) 


i   1: 


FiMiii^ois,  St.,  206. 
Krcnch.  iiK>.  2|fi,  22S. 
l'"riih- W.Ucr  Covr.  1  14. 
l"iMliiilior.  Sir  M.irtiii,  3. 

G. 

("i.illatin.  .\lI)orf,  229. 
( l.iiiliur's  I'lcck.  2.S. 
d.ilpi'.   -V.   54.   103,   14;,  155,  160,  164, 

riatlildo.  S.  31,  73. 

("i.is.  .Mom  ilu,  175. 

(icck-.  14. 

(Iciidrc.  I.ucas  I.e.  229,  230. 

(Iiiiihc.  Is'ivcr  (111.  I  75. 

CiiuMloii.  Do,  35. 

I  IciiiiL'.s.  I'),  lie.  27. 

t  liiiiiL's.   Ki\  ii  ri'  tie,  206. 

( ii'nr^o.s,  Cai)t.iin.  3. 

(lL'i)ri,'o.  .St..  I-livcr.  92. 

(Icorjiian  l>.iy,  196. 

(lermany.  197. 

GilliLM-t,  IIum])lirey,  3.  [4. 

(ilouciik'r;  in,  112,  1  \.\,  115. 

(  Inat    Ill.Uul.   22. 

Goiidy.  Cirdinal  de,  147. 
(iraiiary  lUirial  (irdiind,  113. 
(iraiul  Hank.  163.  222. 
( irand  .M.uian.  15. 
(Iraiidinoiit.  1 1 1 . 
( Iraiiville.  Z2. 
(innvillc.  Lower,  07. 
(ir.ipes,  71,  1 10,  in,  173, 
Cray,  Ala,  76. 
Great  Duck  Illand.  31. 
Green  Illand.  153. 
Green  .Mountains.  217. 
Grene/e',  I  lie  de,  255. 
Godfrey,  33. 


Gomez,  I!ilc\an,  Ai. 

Gookin.  D.iniel.  71,  123,  125. 

Goole  C.ipe.  172. 

Clool'e  I'air  H.iy,  CiS. 

Goole  Ifhuul,  153. 

Goofe  River.  2.S. 

( ioiniild,  ll.irtlioloniew,  79. 

Goiitl're,  Uivii're  dii,  172. 

Guall.  I'ierre  dn,  ■;(■>. 

Guerelieville,  iMarcliiontl's  dc,  39. 

( iuernfey,  255. 

( iiiienne,  \(\\ . 

Gulls,  14. 

Gulliver's  Hole,  21. 


H. 

I  ad  ley  River.  132. 

laies.  lulward,  M,  9.  14. 

I.dvluyt,   2.  3,  9.  14,  f,(,,  171,  174,  1X3, 
1S5.  iS.S. 

lalliburton,  14S. 

ialif.iN,  12,  152. 

i.unpton,  70. 

larhor  Illand,  153. 

I.inlini^'s  Heaeli  Point,  120. 

Lire  Illand,  171 . 

iaute,  I  lie,   25,  2r,.  41.  42,  43,  93,  136, 
137- 

lavre  de  Grace,  7,  9,  22,  232. 

Luvkins,  .Allred,  175. 

Lizard's  State  I'aper.s,  2. 

Lizel  Illand,  172. 

lead  Ilarlior,  100. 

le'bert,  I  lie  d',  23. 

lell  Gate,  57,  59, 

lemp,  Indian,  77. 

lenry  IV.,  157,  irx),  229,  250. 
Henry  VII.,  2. 
Herons,  14. 


.-^m 


Indi 


ex. 


265 


,  I'U 


.  IS''', 


Ilcrrint,'  River.  So. 

Hivu,  C',i|)  (U-  1,1,  <;.  ro,  1  2,  (12,  1  10,  151. 

lli^j^iiH'itn,  I'rancis,  S.S,  Si;. 

Ilipi 

II. .rk 


)()cr.itc.s,  5. 
k  \\ 


onioi 


;iv. 


•)/- 


ilnll. 


iiKkrs. 


V   1 4^>. 


i  Idimin  l)iLi;<).  lO. 

llmiK'iin.  2j. 

lldiialifllia.  75. 

i  loiu'MU'c  hill.  63. 

lionticiir.  7,  20,  9S,  157,  163,  228,  230, 

231.  -3-,  255. 
Hoirc'-tnot  Crali.  SO. 

I  Intel  Diiu.  1  70. 
Hout^iie.  2},2. 
]\o\\<rnvav\\,  2^2. 
lludlon.  Henry,  vi,  171. 

II  nil  Ion  River,  JiS. 

1 1  ml  Ion's  Hay,  170.  171 . 

Ilui^uenots,  250. 

iltiillres.  Port  ailx,  \]C),  117. 

Ilurons,  171'),  \i)f),  202,  213,  226,  22S. 

Huron.  Lake,  |i/i,  226,  22(j. 

lluy.  Ill, mil  of,  231. 

I. 

Iinbert,  23. 

Indi.ins,  at  tlic  Kenneliec,  39,  58,  91, 
92  ;  at  Saco,  62-67,  i  ro  ;  at  Cape 
Anne,  70-72  ;  in  liollon  Harbor. 
72-74;  ,it  r.r.mt  I'oint.  74.  75;  at 
I'iyniouth,  77,  7.S;  at  Xaufet.  8i-S() ; 
at  (iloiicelk-r,  1  ir-i  i  5  ;  at  Harnthihle, 
117;  at  Chatham.  121-136;  at  St. 
John.  147;  at  'radouHae.  167.  233; 
at  Huehec.  i^<)-n)C\  202,  203;  at 
Lake  Champlain,  210-227;  ^t  tlie 
river  Riehelieu,  23<;-246. 

Indian  corn,  61,  64,  66.  73,  75,  82,  86, 
III,  115,  121,  222,  251. 


Indian  hemp,  77. 


Indi.iii  lioulcs, 
)rwi(  h.  70. 


07,  83, 


124. 


I| 

loii.inikou,  138,  t4r. 
Irocofi.i,  217. 

Iroqiioi.s.  76,    196,    200,   202,   203,   207, 
218.  221,  223,  224,  225,  226,  228,  229, 


235,  239.  240,  241. 


:i6. 


Iroquois,  Lake  or  the. 

Irocpioi.s  River.  206,  207,  210,  215,  236. 

I  Hand  Cape.  70,  71.  74,  84,  90,  91,  111. 

Ill.md  B.iy.  152. 

IlLmd  Harbor.  6S,  69. 

I  lies  of  Shoals,  69,  70. 

I  lies  Ran<(e.s,  138. 

I  lie  N'erte,  Riviere  de  1',  153. 

It.ilians.  1 12. 

J. 

Jacques,  .Mailer,  98. 

Jay's  Leak,  217. 

Jennefs.  John  .S.,  69. 

leuneffe,  La.  146. 

jerremifciuam  llland,  57,  58. 

Jefuites,  39,  176. 

John,  St.,  28.  29. 

John.  St..  Uaptill.  28. 

John.  St..  Lake.  16S.  205. 

John.  St,,  River.  9-  210,  216. 

John.  St.,  Riviere.  29,  30,  33,  34.  37.97, 

1 10,  147. 
Johnlon.  Edward.  123. 
Jonas,  106,  107,  150, 
Jomard,  Kdme  Frani,'ois,  3.  49,61. 
Jolfelyn.  John,  68,  88,  89,  no,  II2,  II3. 
Junijjer,  82. 


K. 


K,iy.  Dr.,  216. 
Kendulkcag,  44. 


266 


Index. 


\ 

\' 

i' 

^ 

t 


\\ 


IS  ' 


^ 


Koiiiit'ltt-r.  .{A.  56.  57.  5<).  Ao.  6:!.  gi,  92, 

Killiiinldii  I'r.ik,  J17. 
Kiiij4  L'r.il),  iS6. 
Kiiij^'s  I'urlant,  171. 
Kolil,  Ur.,  73. 


L. 


I..il)r;u!(ir.  ix.  3,  14. 

J,.i  L'iuliL'.  7.  <;,   10,   II.   12,  44.  73,  74. 

l.lv 

L.iiiit.  KivLT,  1S4. 

Lake  riianipl.iin,  Jifi.  21S,  223. 

I.aki.'  ( 'icor^e,  21S,  223. 

LWii^c,  I'ari.s.  v. 

I.arculi.i.  73. 

Latitiiilc.  In  Cli.iniplaiii,  iS. 

LavcrditTc,  l/AI)l)o.  23.  i(\  40,  52,  SA, 
i5-\  153.  1  v|,  171,  173,  175,  1S3,  i</.. 
•97.  205.  213.  215,  233. 

Lark  I'oint.  i''i5. 

Laiirii'.  lAS,  206. 

LejiuiK'.  213. 

Lennox.  147. 

Lefcarbot,  3,  7,  10,  11,  12,  17.  iS,  20. 
22,  23.  33.  36,  37,  3S,  50.  62.  r.3.  73, 
<j4.  103,  lo().  107.  loS.  MI,  131,  140, 
14".  147,  \.vu  151.  ^12,'  154.  15:.  ^11' 

-l.v 
Lcr(Ii,i,aiiLTcs,  Dmlicfs  of,  164. 
l.i'\is.  Cap  (If.  I  7^. 
l,(.'vi.s.  I  [cmi  do,  176. 
L'Teiife,  Extract  from,  xv. 
Lii  iKvu-,  Ng. 
Lillion.  2. 

Liicomb  llland,  153. 
Jilcomb  I'oint,  152. 
1  ifconib  River,  12. 
l.ildc  lioar's  Head,  Ay,  70,  71. 


Liltri.^,  10,  22. 

Livorponl.  10. 

L(il>lli'r  Hay.  lOJ. 

Lonj;  llland.  15.  lA,  17,  20,  21,  27,  30, 

104. 
LoiiL,'  Ill.ind  Hay.  131;. 
Long  111, mm!  Sound.  14.  iS,  136. 
Lonj;  Neck,  131 . 
LoiiiCI)iirj,d),  Harbor  of,  156. 
Louis,  St..  Ilallin  dc.  207. 
Louis,  St..  Falls  of.  160. 
Loui.s,  .St.,  Fort,  210. 
Loup.  River  du.  2c/i. 
Lnwer  (iraiuilie,  XI,  24. 
Lubeck.  139. 
Lundey's  iidet,  171. 
Lunenburg,  <;. 
Lu/.,  Jean  ilc,  154. 

M. 

Mabrctou.  103.  143.  144,  147,  150. 

M.iciiias,  03,  13S. 

.^bll;nelic  Needle.  10.  24.  34,  155. 

Ma:;nus.  Olaus,  52. 

^Liiipic  lllands,  31. 

Mam)ies,  30. 

Mai  I5ay.  164.  172. 

Malleb.irre.  57,  Si,  90,   107,   109,   no, 

117,  iiS.  i3r,,  13S. 
^^\ine,  61,  135. 
Ma'Me.  ( \\\\i  of.  140. 
Maine  liillorieal  Society,  43,  73,  92. 
Mai  de  la  terro,  or  fcurvy,  50,  95,  9S, 

145,  199 
Malo,  St.,  22,  24,  25,  27.  54.  93,  loS, 

14'').  151,  157,  ^11.  241,  242. 
Manoniet,  78. 
ALinan,  Grand,  relit,  30,   55,  93>  99> 

•39 


rfttfSi 


Index, 


267 


'.  30, 


I  ro, 


92. 

5.  'A 

,  loS, 


5>  99> 


M.iiitli.iiio,  30, 

MaiitlKiiiimTnuT.  57. 

Mapiio-Mniulc-,  .yu  ''•i- 

M.ir.iis.  Siciir  tics,   I99,   204,  207,  208, 

ly.,  :;4-;. 
Maichin,  5S,  60.  91,  no,  150. 
Mainarct,  St.,  17,  i.S, 
MiU^ueritt.',  Si.,  152. 
M.irio  (Ic  Mcdicis.  (hiccn  Koj;ctil,  xiii. 

If..  147- 
M.ilii.li^i',   l';l. 
M.irlh  Crcclx,  29. 
M:ii(I\liel(I.  74. 
Martha's  \'ii\fyar(l.  131, 
M.irtiii,  St.,  Head,  2S. 
Maityrcs,  Los.  151. 
Mary.  KiviL-re  St..  153. 
Mary's,  St..  I'.ay.  15.  17,  18,  19.  20,  21, 

23.  35.  4'''.  "04.  1^14- 
Mary's,  St..  KIvlm'.  201. 
Mallachulctts  I'.ay.  71. 
Mallai  liuletts    Harlior  CoininilTioncrs' 

Kc'port.  II 9. 
Malaihials.  143. 
M.ittli-Iiifk.  133. 
M.ittidlo.  S.  73. 
Maurice,  St..  River,  205. 
May  Mower.  7S,  79. 
McKeen,  John.  92. 
Me'^uiitirook  l^ani^e,  42. 
Mcinliertou,  103. 
Mentliane,  232. 
Mercatcir,  156. 
Merriin.ic  liay.  7°'  7i- 
Merrymeetinti;  Bay,  57.  5'),  'M- 
Mellanioiiet,  37.  wo.  III. 
Melinic  Iliaiuls,  4.S. 
Mettaw.nnkeau',  34-  47- 
Mciir.  Jacob  von,  27. 
Mexico,  <S9. 


Mexico,  (lulf  o[.  21S. 

Micnvics,  |(/). 

Milk  lli.iiiil,  70. 

.Milkwieil.  77. 

Mill  I'ond.  2<).  122. 

Mill  River.  24. 

Minas  lial'in.  25,  14S,  149. 

Mini),'<).  173. 

.Minoi's  l.i;;hl.  122. 

Mi(|Uelet.  M..  103. 

Miriilfiljpi  River,  216. 

Millariina.  if»;.  170. 

.MilLiliin  Lake,  170. 

MilliLjoclies.  235.  230. 

Mitchella,  partrid.L;e-bcrry,  20. 

Mitchell.  Prof.,  ii<> 

.Mocodonie  Inlet,  i  53. 

Moll,  \G. 

.Moniie^^an.  i>i,  92. 

.Mononioy,  l^'i,  130.  131. 

Monomoyicks,  136. 

Montaj^nais.  76.  183.  I'A  -oo.  213.  21  ^, 

219,  221.  226,  234.  236.  239,  240,  241, 

244.  245. 
Mont  Carnicl.  17''). 
Montmorency.  174,  175.  17''-. 
Montreal,  160. 
Monts  Delcrts,  Iflc  des,  39,41.  55,  137, 

13S. 
Monts,  Sienr  dc    4,  5,  6.  7.  150.  if^; 

his   commilTion,    160-163.    165.    167, 

176.  1S2,  200.  227,  2 28,  229,  230. 
Moole  I  Hand,  93. 
Moofe  River.  24. 
Morel,  Capt..  7. 
Morris  Illantl,  120,  122. 
Morris  River.  24. 
Morton's  Memorial.  78. 
Morton.  Thomas.  123,  124. 
.Mofqnitoes.  34,  240. 


w    •««tBBBUBaHBiwua£. 


268 


Index, 


) 


'■Vi, 


Mulquito  Illamls,  48. 

Mot  in.  V. 

Mmilin  IkuuIc.  i'>4. 

Mtuint  Jiili,  1(14. 

IMount  Manfeli,  39. 

Mount  M.ircy,  21S. 

IMoutan.  i'ort.  S,  11,  u,  1  .,  21,  : 

Mundon.  i~. 

Murdoch,  licaniilh.  7,  9.  37. 

Murphy.  Henry  C,  40.  73. 

Murray  l)ay.  \~  1. 

Mul"c(Mii:;us  r>,i\'.  4>^. 

Mufcuni  ot' I'nivLr'itv  I. aval.  86. 

Myllic  River,  76. 


N. 


Narrau^anfett  Chili.  65.  66. 

Nalhaway.  71. 

Natci,  Antnine.  1 78.  i()3. 

Naufet,  57.  Si.  90,  117,  119.  130,  136. 

Xef.  La,  91. 

Neirro,  Cape,  12. 

Nciioniitt.  71. 

Neutral  Illaml.  33. 

\e\\  I'lninhvick.  28.  135. 

New  l'.ni;Liii(l.  6.  14.  64,  G)^  77.  79.  86, 

^•j,  88.  112,  121,  124.  237. 
New  England,  Council  for,  62. 
New    England     Ililloric    CJenc-alogical 

Society,  33,  79. 
Newfoundland.  3,  13,  14,  164,  196. 
New  France,  4,  7.  103.    140,   147,    157, 

139.  161,  197. 
New  llainplliire.  61,  70. 
New  Jerfey.  86. 
New  York,  196. 

New  York.  Natural  Hillory  of,  216. 
Nil  onitau  liav.  1  ;2. 


Niganis,  I4(),  156. 

Nipniuck,  74. 

Nipjiie  'roj),  21S. 

Nohlka  I'oint,  131,  132,  136. 

Noddle's  Illand,  76. 

Noix,  llle  aux,  211. 

Nonantani,  71. 

NonamelTct  Illand,  131. 

Nova  Scotia,  7,  8,  9,  lo,  14,  40,  97,  135, 

140,  i(/). 
Nova  Zemhla,  4. 
Normandy,  <),  \(\\. 
Normans,  zn,  235. 
Novus  Orhis,  10,  86. 
Norili  .\merica,  8. 
North  Creek,  17. 
North  Sea,  205. 
Northumberland  Strait,  24. 
Norumbeque,  33.  34,  40,  42,  44,  45,  47, 

49.  50.  55,  136,  137,  141,  142,  218. 
Nofe,  217. 

O. 

Oak.  113. 

Oak  l!ay,  34. 

OchateL;uin.s,    196,   202.  221,   225,   228, 

229,  234.  235,  246,  24S. 
(^Id  (Vchard  Heach,  113. 
Old  Stage  Harbor,  120. 
Olmechin,  63. 

Onemechin.  110,  iii,  113,  150. 
Ordre  de  Bon  Temps,  144, 
Orleans,  120,  121. 
Orleans,  Duke  of,  146. 
Orleans,  illeof,  172,  173,  174,  175,  176.. 

187,  188, 
Ortclius,  231. 
Orville,  d'.  35,  36,  95. 
Ofborne,  Thoinas,  7. 
Ollemov,  21  V 


e.'itdjMfNVi 


Index, 


269 


135, 


47, 


228, 


176. 


Ottawa,  V)(\  ziG. 
OiKiiiimoii.  \.\i. 
OuyL;muly.  2S.  147. 
Owl's  I  lead,  ii2,  41,  48. 
Oxford,  Marl  of,  7. 
Oviler  Harbor.  1 16. 
Oyllur  roml,  122, 


I'acific  Ocean,  68. 

rainier,  21S. 

Palmerllon  Uay,  to. 

Panoiuiias,  55,  63,  142,  146.  150. 

Pare,  Sieur  du.  233,  250,  251. 

I'anloe,  Mifs.  147. 

I'aris,  2,  20.  3S.  40.  [55,  157,  230.  250. 

rarkhurll,  Aiulioiiy,  14. 

I'arrf  borough,  14S. 

rartri(li;e-bcrry,  20. 

rarlrid.^e  I  Hand,  2S,  29. 

l'alTau;e  Courant,  155. 

PalTage,  Petit,  16,  18,  20,  21. 

Pallamacadie,  31,  73- 

Paffamaqiioddy  Pay,  30,  31. 

Patache,  146. 

Paul  v.,  Roman  Pontiff,  38. 

Paul's,  St.,  Pay,  172. 

Paul,  St.,  liland  of,  164. 

Pemadumcook,  Lake,  47. 

Pemenien,  150. 

Pemetiq,  39. 

Penguins,  13,  14,  19. 

Penobfcot  River,  34,  40,  41,  42,  43,  47, 

4(),  60,  92,  137,  2 1 8. 
Pcntegoiiet,  40. 

Perce'e,  Ifle,  155,  164,  228,  252. 
Peribonca,  169. 
Perkins,  F.  S.,  238. 
Perpifawick  Inlet,  152. 


Peru,  85,  89. 

Peter,  St.,  Lake  of,  205,  206,  226,  248. 

Petiteoudiac,  27. 

Petit  Pallagc".  104. 

Petit  River,  10. 

Petum,  66. 

Pickerini^,  Dr.  Cliarl'>s,  66. 

Picouaj^anii,  169. 

]'ii;eons,  69. 

I'ike,  liony-fcaled,  or  <;ar,  216. 

I'ilj^rinis  of  Plymouth,  77,  79. 

Pilotois,  190,  213. 

Pinrkney  Point,  105. 

Placentia  I>ay,  164. 

Pleafant  I'.ay,  121. 

Plum-trees,  198. 

I'lymoutli  Harbor.  76,  79. 

Point  au  Pies,  172. 

Point  Coriieille,  172. 

Point  Ciamnion,  126.  131. 

Point  Ouelle,  172. 

Point  Pere,  172. 

Pokomtacuke.  71. 

Pond  lllanil,  56. 

Pont  Grave,  3,  7,  11,  36,  54,  94,  95,  97, 
99,  100,  loi,  103.  105.  108,  132,  160, 
163.  165,  166,  167,  iSo,  iSi,  182,  190, 
200,  202,  204,  227,  229,  230,  232,  233, 
244,  246,  247,  248,  249,  250. 

Pont  Graved  Robert.  132. 

Pontoife,  Grand  \'icar  of,  1S3. 

Pont,  Riviere  du.  206. 

Poole.  William  F.,  123. 

Popham  Celebration,  93. 

Porta  I'Equilles,  171. 

Port  du  Cap  St.  Louis,  78,  79. 

Po>-^  Fortune^  r2o,  126,  130,  132,  138, 
139,  145. 

Portland.  Dorfetlliire,  231. 

Port  of  .Mines,  2O,  97,  148,  149. 


!        ^ 


'-rSH! 


•  \ 


n 


i^^ 


270 


Lidcx. 


04- 

100, 


I  hmnas.  43,  21 
2.\\,  -4_\ 

2(k   27,  97. 


1  13, 
135. 

3- 


Port  Royal,  17,  22,  24,  25.  27.  37, 
97,  99,   100.    104.    10^),  107.  108. 
I3().  140.  141.  147.  t4.s,  149. 

]'ort  St.  IlLlaiiic.  152. 

I'ortrmoiitli.  70. 

I'ortiigal,  2.  9. 

l\)rtUiiuclc,  <S,  156,  237. 

J 'otter}-.  Indian.  Sd. 

routriiKOurt.  Cap  dc.  149. 

I'outrincourt.  Sieiir  dc.   10.  24.  30, 
38,  82.  97.   io(>.    107.   loS.    Ill, 
1 14,  115.  117.  12(1.  127.  12S.  134. 
140.  141.  144.  145.  146.  147.  14S. 
150.  151.  157. 

I'ownall.  (iovcrnor 

rrairics.  Sieiir  i!cs. 

rrcwrt.  M..  24.  1--,. 

Trinco  (ienr^o.  92. 

Prince  Iknry.  171. 

I'rincL'.  J\ev.  Thomas.  92. 

Prince  Society,  9.  65.  ^19.  112.  123. 

Prinij.  .Martin,  79. 

Proofs  Neck.  62. 

Ptolmiy.  8.  73. 

Pumpkins.  6v  1 1  2. 

Punkai)ao2;.  71. 

Purchas's  l'i!t;rims,  14. 

I'lirllanc,  75. 

Pyrenees,  l.nwer.  154. 


O. 

■'^ 

Ouaro  Pi;,rlit,  28. 

Oiiac:)  River,  27. 

(,)uel)cc,  \^u  Vu  47.  52,  60,  171.  174, 
175,  \"(k  180.  182,  l8j.  18C),  187,  188, 
ii/>,  ii)7,  199,  200,  201,  202,  204,  226, 
227.  228.  230,  234.  235,  236,  237,  246, 
2  .s,  249,  250.  251. 

<)u    jec,  Lit.  and  His.  Soc.  169. 


rncli1)ec,  175. 

(}iieconrioc|.  150. 

(^uinihequv,  44,  46,  47,  48,  56,  58,  60, 

()i,  68,  86,  91.  137,  141,  150. 
Ouoddy  Roads.  Head,  139. 
Quiouhanienec,  113. 

R. 

Ralicaii.  12,  29,  37.  106,  149. 

Ram  Illaiid,  67,  121. 

l\an'4ees.  I  lies,  153. 

Rani^es,  38,  55. 

Raven  Hill  21 8. 

Recollects,  183,  237. 

Red  Cape.  172. 

I-leli^ion  of  the  favaj;cs,  190-193. 

Rihero,  49,  61,  70. 

Richelieu.  Cardinal,  210. 

Richelieu  Fort,  210. 

Richelieu,  River,  207,  239. 

Richmond  Ifland,  62,  no. 

Rio  de  Ciamas,  49. 

Rio  (irande,  49. 

River  du  (luall.  76. 

Riviere  de  Champlain,  131. 

i\i\icre  du  Moulin,  140. 

Rcilierval.  2,  3,  40. 

Roche.  Marquis  de  la,  4,  8. 

Rochelle,  35,  107,  108, 

Rockland,  41. 

Rocky  Prook,  24. 

Ronu',  I. 

Rofcotf,  156. 

Rofcou,  156. 

Role.  John,  8. 

Roller.  i;2. 

Rols  Itlantl,  31. 

RolfiL^nol,  Capt.,  35,  36. 

Roffiynol.  I'ort,  10,  i  i.  12. 


I 


I 


Index. 


271 


,  60, 


RolTway,  t;. 

RdUfii,  loS.  229,  230.  244. 

KouL'ii.  l'.uli;imeiU;iry  Court,  9. 

Rou^i',  if),  31,  (.9. 

Routle,  La,  204,  207,  239. 

Rue  (le  la  Fabrique,  176. 

Rue  du  I'ort,  176. 

Rupert  River,  170. 

Rulcelli,  75. 

Rye  ISeacli,  70. 

S. 

Sal)le  15ay,  12,  13. 

Sable  Illand.  3.  4,  8,  9.  12.  13,  156. 

Saco,  62.  64.  112,  113.  147,  150,  151. 

Sagadahoc  River.  57.  92. 

Sagard,  86.  1S3,  21C). 

Saguenay.  3,  164.  165,  168,  169,  170, 
196.  205,  234,  237. 

Saint  Luc,  M.  de.  250. 

Saiiitonge,  3. 

Salilhury.  70. 

Salmon  River,  171. 

Salter'.s  Ifland,  56. 

Salt  Illand,  114. 

.Sanibro,  151. 

Sandy  Cove,  16,  17. 

Sandy  Xeck  Point.  117. 

Saquilh  Llead,  78. 

.Sal'anoa  River,  57,  59. 

Salinou,  57,  60,  93,  150. 

SalTafras,  112. 

Saint  Lawrence,  2,  5,  6,  27.  30,  44,  47, 
60.  66,  76.  146,  155,  160,  175,  1S3, 
18S,  196,  206.  216,  223,  229,  237. 

Saint  I'ierre,  Illand.s  of,  232. 

Saut,  Riviere  du.  [76. 

.Sauveur.  .St..  3<). 

Savalette,  Port  de.  153.  154. 


Savin,  82. 

Sclavonia,  98. 

ScofieUr.s  I'>rook,  24. 

Scoudic  Lakes,  34. 

Scoudic  River,  31,  47. 

Seal,  14. 

Seal  Cove,  99. 

Seal  Illand,  13. 

Sea-Wolf  Illands.  13,  14,  15,  18,  19. 

Secondon,  29.1)7,  102,  no,  147. 

Se,t;uin  lllantl,  56.  60. 

Seguin  Ledge.s,  56. 

SefamlH'c.  151,  152. 

Sliat'er\s  JJrook.  24. 

Sliakelpeare,  73. 

Shallop,  146. 

Shea.  Jolui  Gilmary.  9.  189. 

Sheeplcot,  59. 

Shepody  Bay,  27. 

.Shipwreck,  lor,  102. 

Shurtleff's  Calendar.  67. 

Siguenoc,  86. 

Silver  mine,  16. 

Simon,  Mailer  Miner,  16. 

SilTibou  River,  17. 

Skittles  I'ort,  171. 

Smelt  River,  17. 

Smith,  Capt.  John,  42,  69,  70,  79. 

Smith's  Cove,  1 14. 

Smith's  Lies,  69. 

Snipe,  14. 

Snow  Lake,  174. 

Snows.  Lake  of,  176. 

Snow-ihoes,  53,  191. 

Sorel,  .M.  de.  210. 

Souriquois,  45,48,  63,  72,  -Ji,  196,  213. 

Sou])(;.onneufe,  131. 

Sourin.  35. 

Soutliampton,  Earl  of,  92. 

South  Eall  Harbor,  114. 


=.: 


'I' 


V  ^ 


u 


»  I 


Indc. 


v. 


Soiiili  River,  74. 

Soutli  So.i.  5. 

Sjiain,  154. 

Spaiiiai'ils,  177. 

Spencer's  lllaiul,  26. 

Spit  Beacon  Light,  28. 

Split  Cape,  148. 

Spring  Hill  Heacli,  117. 

Si|uani  River.  1 14. 

Squanto,  121. 

Squafli,  64,  66,  75,  82,  112. 

Stadacone.  i  J^,  1S6. 

Stage  Harbor,  120,  130,  131, 

Stage  Head,  1 14. 

Stage  llland,  56. 

Slraitfnioutli  llland,  yo,  71. 

Stratton  llland.  62,  65. 

Suhenacadie,  73.  149. 

SulYolk.  Uuke  of,  175. 

Sugar  Loaves,  56. 

Sully,  Duke  of,  147,  250. 

Suzanne,  St.,  du  Cap  Blanc,  So,  206. 


T. 


TadoufTac,  30.  164,  167,  16S,  169.  170, 
171,  173,  176,  177,  iSo,  196,  199.  200, 
204,  205,  226,  227,  22S,  229, 
234,  249,  251,  252. 

Taille,  La,  180. 

'i'aille.  M.  La,  103. 

Ten-1'ound  llland.  114,  115. 

Telhi.  Capt.,  178. 

Texas,  229. 

Thatcher  I  Hand.  70,  72. 

Theatre  de  Neptune,  140. 

Theobald,  St.,  28. 

Thdrefe,  St.,  llland  of,  211. 

Thevet,  4^. 


Thibaut,  Capt.,  239. 

Thome's  Brook,  24. 

Tiiree  Rivers,  205. 

Three  Turks'  Heads,  70. 

'l\)bacco,  66,  82,  86. 

Tortoile  llland,  56,  60. 

Ticonderoga,  223,  224. 

Tin-,othc'e,  Capt.,  7. 

Tracadie,  73. 

Tragabigzanda,  70. 

Tranfylvania,  70. 

Tregatte,  27. 

Trelany,  1 10. 

Trois  Kivi(ires,  204,  207,  233,  235,  238, 

TruittiC're,  141. 

Trumbull,  123. 

Tuckcrnian,  1 12. 

Turkey.  88,  89. 

Turks,  70. 

Tufquel  Illands,  13,  105. 

Two  Bays,  25,  27. 

Tyre,  2. 

U. 

Uncatena  Ifland,  Jji. 
L'nited  States,  ,-23,  56,  62, 
Urfulines,  176. 


Vachcs,  Pointe  aux,  165. 
\'al,  Jean  du,  178,  181. 
\'allard.  Nic,  79. 
X'eazie,  no. 
"Venetians,  i, 
Venice,  73. 

\'entador,  Due  de,  176. 
Vermont,  217. 
Verrazzano,  40. 


It 


^?.jikr.tl*4ijt^<t»»^fiiM 


Indt 


'  ^v  • 


'^n 


^3«. 


X'incy.irrl  Sound,  131. 
\'()fe.  I'ftcr  I-L.,  33. 
Vultures,  14. 

W. 

\ValIin<,^'s  !\I;\p.  121. 

Walnut,  112. 

Ward,  Jolin,  O7. 

Warren,  92. 

Warwiii  Crock,  34. 

Wafaumkcai^  Point,  43. 

Wcd^c  Illand,  153. 

Wcecliajj;afl<as,  71. 

WollHect,  116. 

Wclltieot  Harbor,  80. 

Wells  \eck,  6S,  70. 

Well  Indies,  121. 

Well  Port.  57,  5,S. 

Weymouth,  ("icorge,  3,  92,  93. 

Weymouth  Hirbor,  17. 

Whale  Cove,  13'). 

Whales,  mode  of  taking,  252-254. 

White  Cape,  172. 

Whileface,  218. 

White  Haven,  153. 

White  Kland,  31. 

White  Ledi^e,  56. 

White  Mountains,  61. 


Wight,  I  fie  of,  231. 

Williams,  Roger,  65,  66,  121,  123,  124. 

Willis,  William,  92. 

Willow  I'oint,  224. 

Win  How.  Kdward,  124. 

WilcatVet,  57,  58. 

Wifconlin,  237,  238. 

Wilconrin,  Ilillorieal  .Society  of,  238. 

Winthrop.  John,  (iov.,  8,  62. 

WdKes.  30. 

Wood  ]'Jid.  1 17. 

Wood  Illand,  mouth  of  the  Kennel )ec, 

56 ;    Saco  I'.ay,  67  ;    (irand   .Man.ui, 

9'). 
Wood's  I  loll.  131,  132. 
Wood's  New  'Mig.  Trofpefl,  65,  69,  88, 

112.  125. 
Wyandot  or  '  ">6. 


Yamallca,  206. 

^■armouth,  15. 

N'endots,  228. 

York  15each,  70. 

Young,  Alexander,  78. 

Yrcxjuet,  Capta'n,  202,  236,   245,   246, 


CambridRe  :   Press  of  Joliii  Wilsmi  t'i  Sod. 


